Why Sauvignon Blanc Should Be The Signature White Wine For The Pacific NW

Plus: New releases from Avennia, Bethel Heights, Domaine Serene, Kristof Farms & Quady North

I’ve had a personal love affair with Sauvignon Blanc almost as long as I’ve been drinking wine. It’s taken me decades to appreciate most of the other great white grapes – Chardonnay, Riesling, Pinot Gris in particular. But Sauv Blancs drilled me from the start.

If I think about why, it comes down to style. Not to pick on Chardonnay, but would you call it stylish? Or do you just wonder how much new oak it’s been given, or (lately) if it’s one of those stainless steel or concrete Chards. That’s not style, that’s fermentation and aging technique.

Riesling generally comes down to how sweet it is (or isn’t). Pinot Gris is a grape with more ageability than is generally acknowledged, but in terms of style it’s all about acid – how much and how good.

On the other hand, Sauvignon Blancs exude style. And here in the Pacific Northwest the range of styles reflects the indisputable fact that the grape is successfully grown throughout the entire region, starting as far south as the Rogue Valley and tracking north on up to Lake Chelan and the Ancient Lakes AVAs, with no places in between that cannot make a really good and regionally distinctive version. Now that’s a grape with style!

In her door-stopper “Wine Grapes” tome, Jancis Robinson introduces Sauvignon Blanc with this captivating headline: “Parent of Cabernet Sauvignon producing increasingly appreciated aromatic, zesty, crisp whites”. A “sibling” of Chenin Blanc, another undervalued and amazingly good white grape, SB most likely originated in the Loire Valley, where (for me) the best versions in the world are still made.

Despite decades of proven success, Sauvignon Blanc remains mostly an afterthought for growers in the Pacific Northwest. Up-to-date statistics are hard to find, but overall acreage in Washington is probably declining due to a harsh winter freeze early in 2024 and industry-wide cutbacks across the board. It’s the third or fourth most-planted white wine grape in this state, trailing Chardonnay and Riesling and (maybe) Pinot Gris. Oregon’s statistics for 2024 show just 150 planted acres – not much, but looking at the bright side, acreage has more than doubled since 2018. It’s fair to say that Loire Valley and New Zealand vintners aren’t overly concerned about the competition.

Here in the Northwest we should be delighted to have high quality Sauvignon Blancs available from local wineries. I reached out to several of the winemakers cited below to get their thoughts on the popularity of Sauvignon Blanc.

Tim O’Leary (Long Walk Vineyard) – “We just released our second vintage (the 2024) and it is continuing the strong momentum of our limited 2023 release, which sold out in less than two months. We chose Sauv Blanc based on customer and club member feedback -- looking for an alternative to Chardonnay and Pinot Gris.”

Gilles Nicault (Long Shadows Cymbal) – “Sauvignon Blanc has richness, layers, aromatics, balance, vibrancy. It is a wine that is great to pair with Pacific NW food too… so yes, it has become very popular. I source from Horse Heaven Hills and White Bluff old vine plantings. One of my blocks was planted in 1972 and the other in 1985. They each bring different character.”

Brian Rudin (Echolands) – “It does seem like Sauv Blanc is enjoying a moment… people are realizing the ability for this variety to put minerality on dazzling display. It is a good conduit for flintiness, oyster shells, and buzzy chalk-like energy on the palate. It works when you make every effort to make a concentrated expression; it fails when you overcrop or allow the wine to fall into flabbiness or over-ripeness.”

Jim Anderson (Patricia Green Cellars) – “In 2023 we made over 1,800 cases of our Willamette Valley which was up from 785 cases in 2022. We sold it all in 75 days from release. In 2024 we bottled 2,700+ cases of the Willamette Valley and we are nearly 50% of the way through it. We also bottled 102 cases of Croft Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc and that is all gone. We bottled nearly 400 cases of the Estate Sauvignon Blanc (about 60% higher than the previous highest amount for this bottling) and we are cruising though it.”

PG: All this points to significant consumer interest, but will it encourage more Sauvignon Blanc acreage? I’d guess not on any meaningful scale, but perhaps a few acres here and there from small, family-owned estates. More and more of them are looking for interesting, non-standard white wine offerings. Sauv Blanc straddles the line between the familiar and the unknown. It’s a proven commodity, appreciated and respected, yet vastly under-used.

Here are some excellent recent releases.

Avennia 2023 Oliane Sauvignon Blanc – As is becoming almost standard practice, this 100% varietal is given varied fermentations – 48% in neutral oak, 30% in concrete egg, and the rest in a single 600 liter cask – then aged seven months in 7% new French oak. Such extra effort results in more complexity and texture, both qualities quite apparent here. Texture is what you feel in your throat, along with underlying flavors suggesting mineral-drenched acids. The complexity is apparent in the density, detail and length. Citrus rind, orchard fruits and a dusting of pollen all combine in a crisp, clean, lingering finish. Once again this fine-tuned wine offers a pure expression of classic Washington Sauvignon Blanc. 672 cases; 13.8%; $30 (Yakima Valley) 94/100

Bighorn 2024 Concrete Sauvignon Blanc – Concrete fermentation does interesting things to Sauvignon Blanc when handled well as it is here. It adds a light minerality, some astringency, and softens any hard acids. This is a straight-ahead, juicy and all-purpose white wine. Lightly floral, aromatic, nice texture, medium length… all delicious. 220 cases; 14.1%; $30 (Yakima Valley) 91/100

Echolands 2024 Taggart Estate Vineyard Lower Dry Creek Block Sauvignon Blanc – Crisp and concentrated, this is Sauv Blanc designed to show off lots of skin flavors, citrus and fresh herbs. It’s savory rather than pungent, nicely balanced with a chalky character underscoring it. It’s due out in early summer as part of a three-pack Single Block Series offered along with the Seven Hills Cabernet Sauvignon and one other single block selection. 254 cases; 13.4%; $48 (Walla Walla Valley) 92/100

Efesté 2024 Feral Sauvignon Blanc – Continuing on a winning streak with one of the finest Sauv Blancs from the Northwest, winemaker Mark Fiore again sources Evergreen Vineyard grapes and ferments in a mix of stainless steel and oak puncheons with wild yeasts. The wine is concentrated, sharp and zesty, with vivid flavors of citrus flesh and rind, particularly grapefruit. The vineyard’s typical minerality is also evident, but it is the depth and power of the wine through the finish that most impresses. 560 cases; 13%; $25 (Ancient Lakes) 94/100

J.C. Somers 2023 Croft Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc – A highly regarded vineyard for Sauv Blanc, Croft fruit has enjoyed a quarter century history with Jay Somers. This vintage is a blend of two ferments – one third in concrete egg and two thirds in stainless steel – keeping the savory side of the grape up front, with citrus and melon fruit playing a backup role. Firm through the core and clean through the finish, this should please those who prefer a Loire-style take on Sauvignon Blanc. 200 cases; 13.5%; $30 (Willamette Valley) 91/100

Long Shadows 2023 Cymbal Sauvignon Blanc– Awine with precision, detail, spice, mixed herbs and tightly-defined fruits. Nectarine, kiwi, pineapple and more are in the mix, with supporting acids and excellent length. Fermented in cement eggs, stainless steel tanks and neutral barrels, then finished in one quarter new French oak. The 2024 (not yet tasted) has just been released. 2182 cases; 14.2%; $35 (Columbia Valley) 94/100

Long Walk Vineyard 2024 Sauvignon Blanc – This southern Oregon vineyard gets the heat required to make a New Zealand-style, fruit-driven Sauv Blanc. Don’t get me wrong – there’s plenty of acid to underscore the ripe, tart pineapple and grapefruit goodness at the core. Give it a good chill and you’re in business on a hot summer day. 130 cases; 13.5%; $28 (Rogue Valley) 92/100

Matthews 2023 Columbia Valley Sauvignon Blanc – Bursting with vivid, fresh flavors of citrus and stone fruits, nuanced slices of Meyer lemon, grapefruit and tangerine. The acids lift the palate and add pleasing minerality. Sourced from the Spice Cabinet, Olsen and Culloden vineyards, aged on the skins for a month, and finished in 28% new/72% once-used French oak barrel. This rings every bell for domestic Sauvignon Blanc. 4510 cases; 14.2%; $39 (Columbia Valley) 94/100

Matthews 2023 Reserve Sauvignon Blanc – The reserve is barrel fermented in a variety of formats, then aged in 87% new oak prior to bottling. It’s smoother and toastier than the regular ’23, deftly designed to complement without contradicting the non-reserve. This pushes the alcohol up, softens the palate, has a more seamless mouthfeel. Riper fruit flavors fall on orchard fruits and drift into melon. 440 cases; 14.7%; $75 (Columbia Valley) 94/100

Patricia Green Cellars 2024 Estate Sauvignon Blanc – The estate vineyard is a 1990 planting done before it was acquired by Patricia Green Cellars. Its primary ferment is in concrete; then moved into acacia wood for a short time prior to bottling. Tasted at the winery, I did not have a chance to do a formal review, but it’s a wine to be savored if you can snag a bottle. Great texture, fundamental minerality and highlight flavors of citrus rind and melon. (Ribbon Ridge) 93?/100

Top Source 2023 Sauvignon Blanc – Lush aromatics, just the right side of savory, with top notes of white flower, melon and grapefruit. A touch of mineral comes up as it rolls down the palate. Tasted slightly warm after being open a few hours additional notes of straw and hints of toast appear. The balancing acids keep it fresh and the pungency perfectly sets up the fruit. 231 cases; 12.9%; $30 (Columbia Valley) 93/100

Upchurch 2022 Southwest Facing Boushey Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc – While making wines at DeLille Chris Upchurch pioneered a Bordeaux style of Sauvignon Blanc/Semillon. Here he’s gone a different route – all Sauv Blanc, 100% concrete egg fermentation and sur lie aging. Pungent with lemongrass, lime and grapefruit aromas, this is a juicy, fresh and clean expression of the more phenolic side of the grape. 397 cases; 13.6%; $38 (Yakima Valley) 91/100

Catching Up On New Releases

Avennia

Avennia 2023 Oliane Sauvignon Blanc (the full review is posted above)

Avennia 2023 La Perle (60% Roussanne/40% Marsanne) – Half the Roussanne and all the Marsanne were sourced from the WeatherEye vineyard, where winemaker Chris Peterson also obtains grapes for his Liminal wines. You have to dig a bit to find the unique complexity, but it’s well worth the effort, as it layers in subtle notes of herb and citrus rind, green melon and herbal tea. It roars to life in the finish, adding volume and boosting the accent flavors. Aged 14 months in one quarter new French oak. 90 cases; 13.6%; $40 (Columbia Valley) 94/100

Avennia 2024 L’Egerie Rosé (75% Grenache/25% Mourvèdre) – The Upland vineyard on Snipes Mountain provides the Grenache, while the Mourvèdre comes from Kiona’s Heart of the Hill vineyard on Red Mountain. A marvelous melding of both grapes and AVAs, this dry, delicately detailed yet robustly flavorful rosé has the grip and flavor for outdoor drinking on your boat, your deck or while rafting or camping or picnicking. Fresh with strawberry and watermelon goodness and palate-cleansing acids, it’s a wine that is both charming and substantial. 185 cases; 13.8%; $30 (Columbia Valley) 93/100

Bethel Heights

Note - all these wines were more open and generous on the second day, so decant!

Bethel Heights 2023 Estate Pinot Noir – Three estate vineyards contribute to this blend – Bethel Heights, Justice and Lewman. Sweet aromas of cherries, toast and sandalwood incense introduce tart, tightly-knit flavors of red currants, raspberries and savory herbs. Sharp acids and some chewy tannins fill out the finish, lasting a good long while before fading. Decant or cellar for a few more years. 3856 cases; 13.2%; $36 (Eola-Amity Hills) 92/100

Bethel Heights 2022 Æolian Pinot Noir – Very pretty aromatics sing Pinot! right from the get-go. This tasty bottle is front loaded with cherry fruit underscored with clean earth and suggestions of truffle and thistle. It’s balanced throughout with briary, brambly berries, rolling into gently chewy tannins as it fades into trailing accents of bourbon tea and tobacco. 1000 cases; 13.4%; $50 (Eola-Amity Hills) 93/100

Bethel Heights 2022 Lewman Vineyard Estate Pinot Noir – A recent vineyard selection added by the winery, this spotlights a site planted in 1992 and purchased in 2020. Clearly it was a score – adjacent to the outstanding Justice vineyard on the west and the original Bethel Heights vineyard on the north. Big, bold, forward, bursting with fruit, this is a wine that grabs you by the throat and doesn’t let go. The full, fruit-powered mid-palate brings tangy oranges, apricots, red berries, plums and refreshing acids. Firm, polished tannins frame the extended finish, adding highlights of sassafras, shiitake mushrooms and lemon oil. 585 cases; 13.3%; $75 (Eola-Amity Hills) 95/100

Bethel Heights 2022 Justice Vineyard Estate Pinot Noir – This is all Pommard from 25 year old blocks, wrapping the brambly berry fruit in savory herbs. It’s firm, stacked and tight, the dense mix of fruit, earth and barrel seemingly inseparable at this young age. Bethel Heights Pinots are built to age, but this one seems more than most to need that extra time. 680 cases; 13.2%; $75 (Eola-Amity Hills) 94-95/100

Bethel Heights 2022 Casteel Pinot Noir – This is a reserve-level barrel selection compounded from multiple blocks of estate-grown grapes. The wine displays immediate power and presence with a firm core of mixed berries and cherries, along with suggestions of melon and tropical fruits. It’s open, balanced and fully satisfying, showing excellent concentration through the mid-palate, then hangs in nicely through an extended finish that piles on accents of marmalade and tea as it trails away. 954 cases; 13.5%; $80 (Eola-Amity Hills) 95/100

Domaine Serene

These are high production, widely-distributed wines from Domaine Serene’s vast portfolio.

Domaine Serene 2022 Evenstad Reserve Chardonnay – A blend of estate vineyards, this creamy, seductive wine deftly blends citrus, apple and pear fruit with moderate acids, a restrained use of new oak, and nice touches of spring herbs. It gains concentration in the mid-palate and layers in butterscotch and lemon meringue, completing the creamy impression through an extended finish. 13.5%; $75 (Dundee Hills) 94/100

Domaine Serene 2021 Yamhill Cuvée Pinot Noir – This blended Pinot makes a good starting point for any exploration of the winery portfolio (the website lists multiple vintages of dozens of wines, including a sizeable Bordeaux selection). As a complement to the more focused single vineyard Pinots, this is a broad, fruit-driven wine with a mix of red berries, other red fruits and moderate, tea-touched tannins. 13.8%; $65 (Willamette Valley) 92/100

Domaine Serene 2021 Evenstad Reserve Pinot Noir – A solid step up the ladder from the Yamhill Cuvée, this is all estate-grown, with blue and black fruits, ripe and sturdy tannins, and concentrated fruit flavors of strawberry and raspberry candy. It’s young, fresh and fruit-driven, but with the back end power for additional aging. The trailing finish brings subtle highlights of coffee grounds, cocoa powder and light compost. 14.1%; $95 (Willamette Valley) 93/100

Kristof Farms

Kristof Farms 2023 Estate Grown Chardonnay – Tasted at the farm prior to release, and again here at home, this elegant, spicy and alluring Chardonnay is a fine follow-up to the initial vintage reviewed last fall. The palate fills in quickly with lush, tangy flavors of Meyer lemon and fresh cut pineapple, framed in a burst of grapefruit. The lively acids are kept in balance, and the wine continues to evolve with finishing licks of cinnamon, honeycomb and butter cookie. 175 cases; 13.9%; $45 (Yamhill-Carlton) 93/100

Kristof Farms 2024 Estate Grown Rosé of Pinot Noir – This is the second release from the estate vineyard, and it’s crisp and spicy and loaded with pleasing accents of flower and field. The mix of fruit flavors runs from rhubarb to wild strawberries and watermelon, with a lightly chalky hint of the underlying soil. 175 cases; 13%; $30 (Yamhill-Carlton) 92/100

Kristof Farms 2023 Estate Grown Pinot Noir – This is fifth or sixth leaf fruit, and these young vines already show power and precision. Scents and flavors of blueberry, blackberry, marionberry and black cherry pile on, accented with dusty brown spices. The ripe, textured tannins carry the barest hint of grit, adding depth and texture to the trailing finish. 380 cases; 13.7%; $60 (Yamhill-Carlton) 94/100

Quady North

Quady North 2024 Dry Rosé of Grenache – Lovely to look at, this copper-colored gem is perfectly ripened to bring a full-bodied and flavorful palate with floral highlights, concentrated flavors of dried apricots, a splash of herbal tea and notes of tangerine and cantaloup melon. No winery in the Pacific Northwest makes more flavorful and detailed rosés year after year than Quady North. 12.9%; $22 (Applegate Valley) 94/100

Quady North 2024 GSM Rosé – This blend of 70% Grenache, 21% Syrah and 9% Mourvèdre is bursting with clean, expressive and detailed flavors of dried figs and apricots, apple pie spices and breakfast tea tannins. It’s juicy and fresh, inviting and sensual. The complexity and balance of these Quady North rosés is off the charts, as is the value. 12.2%; $19 (Rogue Valley) 94/100

Note: Both of these wines were re-tasted after 24 and 48 hours, and remained stunningly delicious.

From The Cellar

I opened a pair of 2019 Chardonnays from a Willamette Valley producer I have given good reviews to. Both bottles came to me direct from the winery and were properly cellared. Sadly, both were over the hill. Why? I don’t know. So I next turned to several Pinot Gris from the same vintage. Bingo!

Croft Vineyards 2019 Pinot Gris – Screwcap, fresh, great texture, drinking well, mid-palate concentration and mixed citrus/orchard fruits. Excellent length. 92/100

King Estate 2019 Johnson School Vineyard Pinot Gris – Just now entering secondary maturity. Lovely pear fruit with dots of spice. Fleshy, textured, backed with lime and grapefruit. Still quite fresh and refreshing with a substantial body and touch of juicy fruit gum in the finish. Best of the three. 93/100

King Estate 2019 Backbone Pinot Gris – As with the Johnson School, this remains immaculately fresh, lively, balanced and in fine drinking condition. Both wines were cork-sealed. 91/100

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