The True Significance of Community in the Making of Wine

Plus: Sineann’s Peter Rosback on how his love of train graffiti inspired his new wine labels

I was born in Manhattan, raised in Cleveland, and spent the first four decades of my working life in Seattle. A mix of suburban and downtown big city life, but in no way connected to the rural, small town existence I live now. The historic wheat farming town of 1200 I call home has gently transformed me, becoming integral to who I am, how I think, and why I am immensely grateful for having left the big city life for good.

Because vineyards are located in agricultural communities and many wineries occupy splendid rural settings, I believe that there is a special type of community which they inhabit and build. It’s commonplace for winemakers and winery owners to praise their community, but what exactly do they mean? I believe it goes beyond the tightly focused connections of big city dwellers that generally revolve around schools, jobs or neighborhood enclaves. Small town rural lifestyles are different, more seamless, less segmented, and tightly woven together. In a town of 1200 you won’t find a gated subdivision, private schools, private clubs or any of the other income-based entities that separate citizens into economic sub-groups. There is a “we’re all in this together” mentality that simply does not exist in larger cities.

The New York Times recently interviewed Robert Putnam, a Harvard professor whose well-researched book “Bowling Alone:  the Collapse and Revival of American Community” predicted 25 years ago that we were well on our way to becoming a nation of loners. That has come true, and these days the number of books, podcasts and public ruminations on this nation’s epidemic of loneliness has turned from a current into a tidal wave. In his latest book, discussed in the interview, Putnam notes that “social isolation leads to a lot of bad things” – among them insular, tribal “communities” that promote violence, racism and hate.

I would suggest that communities built upon the growing and production and marketing of wine do the exact opposite. These are truly inter-dependent, connected and blended communities. The many lives that are poured into that bottle of wine you’ve just opened are inescapably entwined. Someone tended the nursery where the cuttings came from that someone planted and someone else tended and others harvested. Someone else sorted and crushed and fermented and barreled and racked and bottled that wine. Others designed the packaging, shipped the cases, stacked the shelves and marketed the wine. And yes, you can say the same about your tv or refrigerator – many hands and minds went into the creation and manufacture of such items. But there is a crucial difference. The making of wine, from vine to bottle to your kitchen counter, involves an unbroken sequence of person-to-person hand-offs that together create a tapestry of connections on a truly human scale.

Outside of the actual production work, there are the endless conferences, confabs and gatherings, both formal and informal, among growers and winemakers and marketers. These meetings and conversations create a rich and deeply personal type of community experience, one that combines small town ethics with the daily demands of agriculture, craft and art. It’s why virtually every family-owned, small production winery I’ve ever visited will point to the importance of community in building and maintaining their business and their lifestyle. It’s the secret sauce that more than compensates for the grinding, sometimes frustrating and always relentless work of building and maintaining a small business.

Sineann

Having tasted Sineann wines over the past two decades, I’ve come to conclude that some of the very finest values in Washington red wines are coming from this Oregon winery. The trend toward Washington and Oregon wineries swapping grapes has grown significantly in recent years, but Sineann’s Peter Rosback has been tapping into grapes from Champoux and other Washington vineyards since 2005. That said, these 2022s from both Champoux and Phinny Hill (sited just above Champoux in the Horse Heaven Hills) are as impressive as any I’ve tasted, including much pricier bottles from some of Washington’s most honored brands.

With the about-to-be-released 2022 vintage Sineann’s Cabs and Merlots are sporting a new label design based upon the sort of graffiti you see on the side of box cars. I queried Peter Rosback about the reasons behind the change.

PR:  “A hobby of mine for years has been strolling through train yards admiring train graffiti art. I have hundreds of photos. Like any folk art, there is an ocean of mediocrity out there (one could certainly say that about wine as well!) and also some really good art.”

PG:  How did you go about finding or commissioning this work? Graffiti artists for obvious reasons tend to conceal their true identities.

PR:  “Seeking out and talking with these artists was quite a challenge. By its nature, train graffiti is illegal. These artists risk legal issues as well as physical danger to do what they do. They do it because they want their art to be seen. After a lengthy search I was able to talk with the producer of a documentary that I would recommend viewing – ‘Rolling Like Thunder’. My favorite line in it is where an artist named ‘Ich’ (German for ‘T’) says I don't want to ruin anybody's day. I just want to do my art and I don't own a lot of property.

“Producer Tim Conlon – a former train graffiti tagger himself – has since gone legit. He hooked me up with some other excellent artists. They sent me samples of their work. We chose our favorites and formed labels around them.”

PG:  I see the artists are credited on the back labels.

PR:  “Three of the four wanted us to use their 'handle'. Note that ‘Miss Merlot’ did the 2022 Merlot label. Her partner ‘Aerub’ did the 2022 Phinny Cabernet, ‘Maple’ did the 2022 Lady Hawk Cabernet, and Tim Conlon (‘Con’) did the 2022 Columbia Valley Cabernet. My favorites are Maple and Merlot. I’m really not sure this will help sell a single bottle of wine but we’re doing it anyway!”

PG:  Readers, whatever your feelings about graffiti and train tagging may be, I’m confident that you will love these wines. Here are my notes:

Sineann 2023 Pinot Gris – Sourced from the Wy’east vineyard, in the foothills of Mt. Hood, a long time favorite of winemaker Peter Rosback. This brings unusual flavors that may reflect exceptional heat at ripening. Rather than fresh pear fruit, the usual signature flavor of Oregon Pinot Gris, here are flavors of dried apples, clean straw and a touch of umami that set this up for sushi or sashimi and any raw shellfish. 110 cases; 13.6%; $18 (Columbia Gorge) 90/100

Sineann 2023 Pear Blossom Vineyard Grüner Veltliner – Grapes from the hills above the Columbia Gorge seem perfectly perched for this Austrian variety. Sourced from a Michael Savage vineyard on the Washington side, this is ripe, juicy, tart, tangy and tongue-ticklingly delicious. The fruit melds impressions of very ripe grapefruit with a sprinkling of sugar, fresh peaches and tangerines. Perfectly set up by the underlying acidity, it is finished dry but so intensely fruity that it may include a bit of residual sugar. It certainly gives that impression. Chill it a bit for optimal drinking; it will keep for days. 120 cases; 13%; $20 (Columbia Gorge) 94/100

Sineann 2022 Phinny Hill Vineyard Cabernet Franc – One of three reds sourced principally from this vineyard, the Cab Franc has the savory/herbal aromatics of the variety, a streak of ground coffee, and a mix of blackberries, plums and toasted walnuts on the palate. It’s beautifully smooth and spreads out across the palate without leaning too hard into the tannins. Long and graceful through the finish, this is a Cab Franc-lover’s Cab Franc, cut on the elegant side despite the rather high abv. 150 cases; 14.8%; $36 (Columbia Valley/Horse Heaven Hills) 92/100

Sineann 2022 Lady Hawk Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon – This is a five-acre, all Cabernet plot owned by Paul and Judy Champoux, and only Andrew Januik (to my knowledge) gets these grapes other than Peter Rosback, whose relationship with the Champoux family goes back two decades. This is a textured, complex wine – its power is in the tannins. They don’t dominate, but give the finish its punchy focus. The fruit ranges through red and black berries with a savory note, and the balance and length are spot on. 100 cases; 14.2%; $42 (Columbia Valley/Horse Heaven Hills) 93/100

Sineann 2022 Columbia Valley Cabernet Sauvignon – This pure Cabernet is sourced from the Phinny Hill and Lady Hawk vineyards. Both are also bottled as vineyard designates and highly recommended. But for this blend at this price it feels like you're stealing the wine. Aromas of blackberries, cassis, espresso and clean earth lead you to a classic Cabernet palate. Firm, focused, replete with black fruits, black tea, black olive, black licorice… you get the drift – this lovely bottle is drinking beautifully already with enough power to pound down with any grilled beast. 300 cases; 14.2%; $30 (Columbia Valley/Horse Heaven Hills) 93/100

Sineann 2022 Phinny Hill Vineyard Merlot – Wines from this vineyard, just up the hill from Champoux, often claim much higher prices. A fine value, this is dark, deep and dense with mixed black fruits and espresso highlights. A moderate exposure to new oak puts a frame around ripe and savory tannins. The flavors expand with aeration, filling the palate with appealing lushness. Big, broad, bold and delicious, this may be enjoyed over the next decade. 125 cases; 14.2%; $30 (Columbia Valley/Horse Heaven Hills) 94/100

Sineann 2022 Phinny Hill Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon – Tasting this blind you might easily assume you’re drinking a wine costing double, even triple the price tag. Phinny Hill overlooks Champoux from a higher (hence more desirable) elevation. The vines are coming into real maturity now, and the wine brings both depth and power via its polished, ripe and firm tannins. The cassis fruit is deepened with accents of mocha, cut tobacco and sweet spice; these highlights carry down the palate through a long finish. Cellar this? Of course, but drink a bottle or two before stashing the rest of the case. 100 cases; 14.2%; $42 (Columbia Valley/Horse Heaven Hills) 95/100

NOTE:  These wines are not yet listed on the website. Contact the winery for availability.

Another great tasting from the past week was a roundup of the latest from the team at Saviah, including their stellar value brand The Jack.

Here are my notes on the current releases:

Saviah 2023 The Jack Rosé – Bright, mineral-drenched and tart flavors make this a great go-to, chillable rosé. It’s a GSM mix, with Grenache the main contributor. All stainless fermentation and aging keep it racy and push the savory highlights up front and center. If you like a totally dry rosé with a touch of bitter herbs this is your bottle, and given the rising prices for this category across the board this is a flat out bargain. 477 cases; 13.1%; $15 (Columbia Valley) 91/100

Saviah 2022 The Jack Riesling – Count on this value brand to deliver exceptional flavor and value across the portfolio. This new release has had some extra bottle age and is at the top of its game. Dry, bright and bursting with citrus skin and flesh, it’s got to be the best possible wine to chill and slug down with your Dungeness crab. Sourced from the Evergreen vineyard, one of Washington’s best sites for cool climate white wines. 1041 cases; 13%; $15 (Columbia Valley) 92/100

Saviah 2023 The Jack Sauvignon Blanc – Immaculately fresh, bitingly spicy and packed with layers of grapefruit, lemon/lime and green melon, this benefits from sur lie aging, giving the mouthfeel extra snap and texture. It gathers concentration in the mid-palate and lingers there until you can’t resist taking the next sip. The blend includes 15% Viognier, a great addition, that broadens out the flavors of the Sauvignon Blanc much as Semillon does in the classic white Bordeaux blend. 1000 cases; 13.1%; $15 (Columbia Valley) 92/100

Saviah 2023 Rosé – From Walla Walla’s Dugger vineyard this is a 60/40 mix of Sangiovese and Barbera. It’s zesty, crisp and detailed, with a lovely mineral foundation. Very light red berry fruits are in play – strawberries and raspberries – and the finish is framed with light but firm tannins. It’s got surprising length; the longer you wait the more flavors pile on, including a finishing lick of white chocolate. 220 cases; 13.3%; $25 (Walla Walla Valley) 92/100

Saviah 2022 Dugger Creek Vineyard Barbera – This brand new release continues a string of successes for Saviah with this variety. Fermented in both stainless steel and neutral oak, it captures the freshness of just-picked raspberries, the aromatics of summer roses and the lightly herbal grace notes of the wines from Italy. When first opened it finishes slightly hot, so aeration is recommended to smooth it out. With ample breathing time a pleasing toasty note emerges. Fine to drink this slightly chilled with your grilled meats. 305 cases; 14.5%; $40  (Walla Walla Valley) 92/100

Saviah 2021 Tempranillo – This excellent take on Tempranillo is principally from the Watermill estate vineyard, blended with 9% Grenache and 2% Syrah. It’s seamless and smooth, with buoyantly juicy flavors of red plum, spice and coffee. Aged 18 months in 20% new French oak, this doesn’t exactly emulate the more austere Spanish style; rather it punches through with a classy Walla Walla version of this challenging grape. Firm, tannic, focused and compelling, I’m sold on it – the balance is spot on, the flavors beautifully integrated and the barrel highlights add spice, depth and texture. 237 cases; 14.5%; $40  (Walla Walla Valley) 93/100

Saviah 2022 Cabernet Sauvignon – Composed of fruit from a half dozen vineyards, including Funk estate, McClellan and Bacchus, this includes 9% each Malbec and Merlot in the blend. The effect is to broaden the palate and add a mix of light herbs. 30% new French oak barrels bring the expected toasty frame. Well-balanced, it finishes tight until it’s had plenty of time to breathe open. But re-tasted after being open for 48 hours it was still rocking. 800 cases; 14.5%; $35 (Walla Walla Valley) 92/100

Saviah 2021 Cabernet Franc – This pure Cab Franc was sourced from the Watermill and Summit View vineyards. It’s focused and resonates the purity of a single varietal wine, with firm Cabernet tannins, the coffee ground accents of Franc, and core flavors of cassis and clean earth. The extended finish shows nary a hint of green or unripe flavors; it’s full and flavorful, adding a wash of cedar to ripe, lightly chewy, lightly grainy tannins. 299 cases; 14.5%; $35  (Walla Walla Valley) 92/100

Saviah 2021 GSM – I loves me a well-structured GSM, and this one – roughly two thirds Grenache, one quarter Syrah and the rest Mourvèdre – hits the nail on the head. A little toasty, a hint of pretty smoke, accents of cinnamon, all in support of well-rounded flavors of blueberries and plums. Smooth and supple, it has just been released and should drink beautifully over the rest of the decade. 390 cases; 14.5%; $40 (Walla Walla Valley) 93/100

Saviah 2022 Syrah – With its compelling lineup of single vineyard wines, blended vineyard wines, value wines and Walla Walla wines, Saviah has stepped into the role once occupied by Tamarack Cellars when that much-loved winery was still locally owned. Do you miss Firehouse Red (who doesn’t?). I give you The Jack. Or the single vineyard expressions from classic Sagemoor vineyards? Try this Syrah, sourced principally from estate fruit, aromatically inviting, varietally pitch perfect, and focused on what makes this grape so appealing – bright berry fruit, sweet spices, and finishing touches of chicory, espresso and cut tobacco. Not the well-known funky style; this is fruit-driven and immediately drinkable despite its youth. Just released. 550 cases; 14.5%; $35 (Walla Walla Valley) 93/100

Saviah 2021 The Stones Speak Estate Syrah – Dark to the edge of blackness, dense to the point of impenetrable, this pungent and potent Syrah carries the signature funk of the famed Rocks District yet remains balanced and doesn’t tire the palate. It’s a flavor mix of raisins, prunes and figs accented with notes of dried seaweed, hay, tea and compost – all in proportion. Flavors cascade across and down the palate, opening up layer upon layer as they go. If you drink this newly-released wine any time soon I would decant it, and then sip at it over a period of several hours. It’s one of those highly entertaining wines that will continue to surprise and delight you. 305 cases; 14.3%; $60 (Walla Walla Valley/Rocks District) 96/100

Saviah 2021 Hunt & Gather Red – Sourced entirely from the Funk estate vineyard in the Rocks District, this is a 60/40 Cabernet Sauvignon/Syrah blend. It’s loaded with sappy raspberry and cherry fruit, seemingly soaked in mocha and sprinkled with a mix of wild herbs and grasses. It hits a clean focus and hangs there almost indefinitely, slowly fading out across the palate universe. Yum is the word that comes to mind. Don’t wait on this one – it’s already irresistible. 194 cases; 14.5%; $55 (Walla Walla Valley/Rocks District) 96/100

Purchase these wines here.

Events & Tastings Coming Up

Chardy Party

July 25th 6 to 9pm. Four great wineries – Hazelfern, big table farm, Hundred Suns, and Walter Scott – will be pouring their Chardonnays accompanied by food from chefs Sarah Schafer and Brett Uniss from Humble Spirit + the Ground. The venue is the Hazelfern Barn - just up the road from The Allison Inn & Spa in Newberg, Oregon. Parking on-site is limited, as are tickets.

IPNC

July 25 - 28. What unfortunately looks to be the swan song for the long-running IPNC celebration will take place once again on the Linfield College campus in McMinnville. Tickets for the entire festival as well as some individual events are still available. There’s a slim chance that if it sells out it may return in 2025. Will it be hot? Almost certainly. Will it be fun? Always has been, and I’ve attended many. Sorry to see this legendary event going away, but if this is to be the final one it is sure to be a special celebration.

The Auction of Washington Wines

August 8 - 10. For many years I was the assistant auctioneer (alongside the amazing Dick Friel) at this annual event, held at Ch. Ste. Michelle’s headquarters in Woodinville. In 2006 my band entertained at the Auction Picnic. And I always enjoyed the camaraderie, the casual atmosphere and of course the after-parties. It’s been awhile since I’ve had the opportunity to attend, and maybe things have changed, but if you are in the area you should check into the events planned for this year’s Auction.

The Shindig at Yellowhawk Resort

August 23 -24. Sip from more than 25 wineries on the beautiful Yellowhawk grounds, enjoy light bites, and groove to live music. The Magnum Tent will feature 14 special pours and has limited tickets. On Saturday the Grand Gallop event is a multi-course dinner and auction to support local youth agriculture, and the wine and culinary communities. Bid on exclusive packages and dance the night away with post-dinner entertainment.

Note To Winemakers and Wine Marketers:  Now that I am unchained from the demands of print, I have rebuilt my tasting practices from the ground up. I do not taste wines for review anywhere except at home under very tightly controlled conditions. I do not do barrel tastings. I do not attend big trade tastings. As time allows I do visit wineries in order to walk the vineyard, learn more about their winemaking and talk trade. After these in-person visits I can bring home wines to re-taste and do formal reviews. I open no more than a half dozen wines at a time and almost always retaste them repeatedly over 48 – 72 hours. I use specific stemware and eliminate all distractions – no cooking smells, no food, no music, just me and the wines. It is the best way I know to give young wines the chance to show their very best. Blind tasting? Not any more. I’m interested in context, history and the luxury of tasting each wine over many hours and days – no slam through sip ‘n’ spit tastings. Deep dives into young wines are the M.O. now.

Note To Subscribers:  A weekly wine column no longer exists in any of the leading newspapers of the Pacific Northwest. Where do you find unbiassed, ad-free, no cost wine guidance from a local expert? You’ve found it. Along with wine lovers from all walks of life who subscribe, many in the industry who make and market Pacific NW wines are contributing their support and feedback as I continue to expand and improve my coverage. My principal goal is to give you a real edge on finding hidden treasures from under-the-radar, limited production, high value producers.

A FAVOR – if you work for a winery, a vineyard, a wine marketing organization, a distributor, or in retail, PLEASE subscribe. Subscribe for free and then decide if you’d like to support this work with a small investment in a paid subscription (less than $1/week). Your support means I can continue to build upon my 35 years of promoting the wines and wineries of the Pacific Northwest with cutting edge material for a digital world.

Cheers!

Paul