Politics, Passion and the Perils of Wine

Plus: Choosing your Holiday wines, and new releases from Drouhin Oregon, DDO, Long Walk Vineyard, :Nota Bene and Sineann

This is one of a very few Substacks devoted to wine coverage, and just to make it even more of a niche within a niche, my focus is on small, artisanal wineries from the Pacific Northwest. But inevitably, politics pokes its nose into wine matters, and must be acknowledged in some way. My friend and colleague Tom Wark, on his Fermentation Substack, is the pre-eminent voice on all sorts of legislation impacting wine production and sales. He has already begun to address the potential impact of proposed tariffs, which could result in retaliation from wine producing countries around the world. It’s possible that some new tariffs could be a major drag on wine imports, while at the same time cutting into overseas markets for our domestic wines.

The potential impact of speculative tariffs is hard to predict, but tariffs are only part of a tsunami of negative forces currently impacting wine sales. Recent statistics show ongoing declines in sales volume nationwide of as much as eight percent. Sales of non-alcoholic wines are growing “explosively” according to one producer. Sales of true Champagne, a holiday stalwart, are flat, a slight improvement after years of decline. And as I read the tea leaves, I see more and more small wineries with back vintages stacking up cutting production, adding second labels and all but eliminating such perennial laggers as Riesling. I don’t know how many are selling juice on the bulk market or doing custom bottling simply to off-load overproduction. But it’s certainly a factor.

This is where passion enters the equation. People in the wine business are passionate about being in the wine business. Big corporate entities, especially those that are publicly traded, march to the beat of a different drummer. But the thousands of small producers who manage vineyards, run tasting rooms, make their own wine and somehow find time to deal with all the different legal obstructions, middle-men marketers, wholesalers, retailers and so on are running on passion. It’s not an accident that the vast majority of the folks I’ve come to know in the business are super bright, talented, hard working, creative, can-do people. Passionate. It’s painful to watch them struggle, and their passion for what they do makes it almost impossible for them to quit. Until - God forbid - natural disasters, climate change, slowing sales, higher costs and negative market trends bring their fragile businesses crashing down.

In many respects what is happening industry-wide may be a reversion to the mean. Meaning what? It’s a theory, often applied to financial investing, that suggests that over time valuations will move toward their long-term average. Might that apply to wine? Let’s look back about 35 years. In 1990 the number of bonded wineries in the Pacific Northwest was maybe 5% of the size it is today, and of those at least half are now out of business. Back then the Boomers were in their prime and wine was the alcoholic beverage of choice for that generation. Really good wines were rare, but those that were really good were affordable to most consumers, whether they were Napa Valley Cabs, Oregon Pinots, Washington’s emerging 'cult' wineries or  collectable wines from the great French wine regions.

Today it might be argued there are simply too many wineries, too many really good but very expensive wines, and too many alternative non-wine options, both alcoholic and otherwise, to sustain the status quo, let alone fuel continued growth. So a reversion to the mean might signify sharply reduced numbers of producers rather than a return to 1990s prices. In fact, if/when tariffs kick in it’s predicted that all wine will get more expensive, and small producers and importers will be hit the hardest. Already we are seeing substantial numbers of wines being dumped at bargain basement prices, while prestigious, investment-grade wines continue to be offered at triple and quadruple digit prices, if you can find them at all.

My wine writing alma mater, the Wine Enthusiast just released their Top 100 Ageworthy Wines for 2024, one of three annual lists. It is arguably the list that features the best overall wines, based on scores and also on the opinions expressed that these are all wines built for the long haul. Just look at the prices. Clearly an effort was made to include a surprising number of wines in the $25 - $50 range, but most are priced in three figures, and more than a handful top $300/bottle. This seems unlikely to bring in a lot of new wine drinkers into the fold.

As hard a truth as it may be, the ongoing shrinkage of the domestic wine industry may simply be a culling of the herd. It happens in every industry. Times change; fashion is fickle; generations age in and out; technology marches on. Many of us were fortunate to live through decades of wine industry growth that resulted in vast improvements in both quality and availability. For decades, rising production costs and escalating retail prices were accepted and viewed as inevitable. But it seems a ceiling has been reached, and at least some of the air is being let out of the balloon. When a five ounce glass of okay Chardonnay costs $25 and up (with tip and taxes) at your local gastropub, you know things have gotten out of whack. I can buy the entire bottle, and maybe something better for those same dollars.

And if there is any answer to all the wine industry troubles we are seeing, it’s just that. Go visit your local tasting rooms. Buy a bottle, make a new friend, learn something you didn’t know about wine. Lots going on right now. Next week I’ll do my annual gift guide, featuring a lot of good ideas that can boost your enjoyment of wine and provide you with creative gifts for wine-loving friends. And speaking of holidays....

For some decades now the obligatory Thanksgiving wine column has inevitably circled the turkey, as if that mandatory holiday fowl were some deeply mysterious entrée requiring special expertise to accompany. I confess I've written more than a few of these columns at the behest of various editors. I’ll offer a few quick thoughts on picking your Thanksgiving/Holiday wines.

The most important thing to remember is that holidays are a time for celebration. So as you gather with friends and family I hope you’ll choose the best wines you have access to, whether you purchase them for the occasion or pull them from your cellar. These are the moments that call for quality at the center of the table. If you are opening just one or two bottles, make them really good.

For a large gathering, with multiple choices, you can mix and match. During the years that we hosted large Thanksgiving gatherings, I’d open a dozen or more wines. All good, not all great. The goal then was to have something for everybody.

I never got caught up trying to do wine and food matches – a waste of time, especially at a huge meal with many different side dishes. It really doesn't matter what you drink, nor does it always have to be wine. Beer and turkey? Nothing wrong with that. Just make it a little special – save the PBR and Miller Light for Black Friday. Get something seasonal from your local brewer. For guests who don’t drink alcohol a glass of sparkling water with a twist of lemon can be plenty festive. The key is to give everyone a chance to participate in what is (hopefully) a joyful celebration, so you can all raise a glass of something together and give thanks for all the blessings of the day.

If you are doing a small holiday meal – maybe just one or two bottles of wine to share – I’d start with bubbly and then pop open a red. If Champagne is too pricey there’s always Prosecco; just aim for a dry style that will be more food friendly. For a red there’s a wealth of delicious Oregon Pinot Noir out there – I recommend some with every post. From Washington look to the GSM blends to find fruit-forward, fresh and balanced red wines that are not drowned in new oak.

As for me, I’ve yet to pick my bottles. I’ll keep you posted. Here are some good options.

Drouhin Oregon Roserock

Domaine Drouhin Oregon

NOTE:  Drouhin Oregon Roserock is sourced from the winery’s Eola-Amity Hills vineyard; the DDO wines are from the original Dundee Hills estate. Not only are the winery’s exacting quality standards as high as ever, the amount of wine produced means that many of these bottles are not difficult to obtain. And the pricing has stayed remarkable fair, even low, given the pedigree and quality.

Drouhin Oregon Roserock 2023 Chardonnay – As this vineyard matures the wines just get richer and deeper. This coats its luscious fruits with a lick of buttery caramel. The acid is retained sufficiently to keep it lively and add some precision to the exuberant palate. Apples, pears, peaches, lemon lollipop, banana cream and more are here in detail and proportion. It’s a gorgeous wine from its aromatic start to its finishing hint of cilantro, and may be enjoyed over the next decade. 2312 cases; 14.1%; $42 (Eola-Amity Hills) 94/100

Drouhin Oregon Roserock 2023 Pinot Noir – This is a generous wine, rich and forward with a lush mix of strawberry and raspberry fruit. It’s almost jammy except for the underlying acids, and a firm streak of minerality. The herbal/earthy character the vineyard displayed in the early vintages remains gently visible; this fruit-driven and elegantly proportioned wine is ready for immediate enjoyment What a fine complement to the winery’s Dundee Hills Pinots. Drink this while you cellar those. 14714 cases; 14.1%; $44 (Eola-Amity Hills) 93/100

Drouhin Oregon Roserock 2022 Zéphirine Pinot Noir – This is a barrel selection that gets an extra year of bottle age prior to release. It’s built to age, built for elegance, built for structure and built as a closer expression of Véronique Drouhin’s Burgundian heritage. All that said, with a bit of aeration, it’s a fine drink already. Firm and vertically stacked with layers of blueberry, cherry, mocha, almond candy and butter brickle, it’s a deep dive into compact flavors that keep giving more the more you explore. 2518 cases; 14.1%; $75 (Eola-Amity Hills) 95/100

Domaine Drouhin Oregon 2023 Arthur Chardonnay – First whiff gives a hint of Key lime, and the acids underscoring this young wine tilt toward lime as well. It feels as if another six or twelve months in bottle would be advisable, simply to meld all the layers into a more seamless palate. All the right components are there – juicy tangerine and other citrus, crisp apples, a gentle wash of barrel toast and a pillowy burst of meringue. 3232 cases; 14.1%; $45 (Dundee Hills) 95/100

Domaine Drouhin Oregon 2022 Édition Limitée Pinot Noir – Wine Club only? This brings an inviting toasty flavor around tangy berry fruit, a winning combination that sets up immediate pleasure. It’s smooth and supple, even a bit soft in the mouth, with streaks of toffee running through the finish. Flavorful and appealing, though missing some of the depth and finesse of the other DDO Pinots. 259 cases; 14.1%; $90 (Dundee Hills) 92/100

Domaine Drouhin Oregon 2022 Origine 35 Pinot Noir – This honors the 35th anniversary of the Drouhin’s groundbreaking entry into the Willamette Valley. It’s medium-bodied, well-built, with firm cherry fruit and a nice dusting of barrel spice. Sassafras, cherry compote, a touch of tobacco – these are the details that elevate the wine through an extended finish. 1570 cases; 14.1%; $55 (Dundee Hills) 93/100

Domaine Drouhin Oregon 2022 Laurène Pinot Noir – The Laurène was introduced long ago as a reserve offering; now there are multiple cuvées from DDO and the pecking order is less clear. But going by price, this remains reserve level, and just below the Louise (if that is still made). By any standard this is exceptional Pinot Noir – beautifully ripened, balanced, textured and detailed. Full-bodied fruit flavors combine berries and cherries with splashes of citrus. The use of new oak is careful and proportionate, and those notes of spice and toast play out gently through an extended finish. Brilliant structure is the hallmark of all DDO wines, and this wine from this vintage should have decades of life ahead. 3274 cases; 14.1%; $80 (Dundee Hills) 96/100

Long Walk Vineyard

This southern Oregon vineyard and winery is focused on Rhône varieties and blends. Owners Kathy and Tim O’Leary purchased the property just four years ago. As Kathy confided in a recent interview, “we knew from the beginning that we would plant varieties from southern France, since these were varietals and wines that we knew and loved from many trips to Europe and much personal discovery. At the time, we didn’t know what might be best as a single varietal and what might be best in a blend, but the varietals we chose gave us lots of options and our vision was to pursue what they could become in our Southern Oregon location. As we’ve transitioned from grape grower to launching our own brand, we’ve learned that our Carignane, Cinsault, Mourvèdre, Syrah and Grenache produce lovely and popular wines – both as single varietals and in various blends.”

Long Walk Vineyard 2022 Syrah – There’s a sense of restraint to this Syrah and the other single varietal wines profiled here. The alcohol levels are down slightly from 2021, and the wines all tilt toward the juicy, savory style, avoiding any heat in the finish, but keeping fruit flavors light. Currant, rhubarb and wild raspberries are in the mix. Aging in one quarter new oak adds a touch of caramel, coffee and toast. 135 cases; 13.4%; $30 (Rogue Valley) 90/100

Long Walk Vineyard 2022 Mourvèdre – There’s plenty going on with this pure varietal wine – juicy boysenberries, strawberries and red currants, delivered with plenty of snappy acidity. The tannins are smooth with savory highlights of stem and leaf. This is not an easy grape to solo; it can feel flat or missing some detail. But here it all works just as is. One quarter of the barrels were new. 100 cases; 12.5%; $38 (Rogue Valley) 91/100

Long Walk Vineyard 2022 Grenache – This is textured, even chewy, with mineral-streaked berry fruits. There is nothing over the top, and the wine rolls through the palate with juicy freshness, the berries morphing into cherries, with highlights of orange peel and tarragon. The long finish remains pure and clean even on the third day. Easily my favorite of the tasting  100 cases; 13.2%; $35 (Rogue Valley) 93/100

Long Walk Vineyard 2022 Field of Stars Red Blend – This is the first release of ‘Field of Stars’, a reserve-level blend. The name honors the city of Santiago de Compostela in Spain. The final proportions are 39% Mourvèdre, 35% Syrah, 20% Carignan and 6% Grenache. It’s a tight, polished effort, with compact blackberry and marionberry fruit. Lightly spiced and dense through the finish, this will need more time to unpack. 100 cases; 12.8%; $50 (Rogue Valley) 92/100

:Nota Bene

Tim Narby and Carol Bryant of :Nota Bene Cellars stopped in for a visit during a short post-crush vacation in Walla Walla. They very generously left a lot of wines from their library along with some current releases. These are made in very limited quantities, mostly single variety, single vineyard wines, and given extra bottle age prior to release. Well made wines, consistent in style, with darker fruits and plenty of barrel toast.

I wish more producers would put so much accurate and detailed technical information on their back labels as these winemakers do. Here are reviews of my favorites, all currently listed on the website. The winery offers a deep back catalogue of past vintages very attractively priced. I tasted a few which were all sound and well-balanced.

:NB 2023 Purring Cat White Blend – This is 50/50 Semillon/Sauvignon Blanc. The five days of skin contact and barrel aging on the lees has made this a rich, mouth-coating wine, ready for immediate enjoyment. The palate weaves together flavors of apple, pear and dried grasses that give it an autumnal twist perfect for the season. It continues into a lightly spicy, lingering finish, touching briefly upon candied fruit and chai tea. 87 cases; 13.6%; $30 (Yakima Valley) 92/100

:Nota Bene 2019 Una Notte GSM Blend – Grenache dominates, with 11% each Syrah and Mourvèdre completing this GSM red. It’s got a few years of bottle age under its cork but retains plenty of fresh raspberry fruit, backed with darker highlights of earth and char. Those flavors continue through the finish, adding highlights of espresso grounds and charred steak. In fact a tri-tip might be exactly right for this bottle. 114 cases; 14.35%; $35 (Columbia Valley) 90/100

:Nota Bene 2021 Heart of the Hill Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon – This pure varietal from a mid-mountain vineyard captures the classic style of Red Mountain Cabernet. It’s chewy and compact, with cassis and black cherry at the core. The tannins are ripe and lightly grainy, with a touch of the savory side of this variety to complement the fruit. It’s a balanced, solid effort with a decade or more of aging potential. 50 cases; 14.35%; $45 (Red Mountain) 91/100

:Nota Bene 2019 Angiolina Vineyard Syrah – This bears the hallmarks of a cooler vintage, accenting the herbal, savory flavors with a peppery twist. The fruit runs from rhubarb to red currant, with brambly, wild-picked raspberries along for the ride. It might be considered a northern Rhône style, with a base of clean earth streaked with minerals. Definitely a wine worth spending some time with, it’s an excellent comp to the better known and comparable Syrahs from the Red Willow vineyard. 50 cases; 14.35%; $30 (Yakima Valley) 92/100

:Nota Bene 2021 Arianses Vineyard Syrah – Despite the hefty abv this feels in some ways elegant. It opens with seamless, complex aromatics, and brings a full array of classic varietal Syrah flavors as it breathes open. Baking spices and Provençal herbs, clean earth and pastry fruits are here in abundant detail. The wine zips along clean and fresh, the lightly astringent tannins cascading down through a long finish. 50 cases; 15.2%; $35 (Wahluke Slope) 92/100

Sineann

These just-released 2023 red wines are among the very first chance to taste full-bodied red wines from the most recently-bottled vintage. If Zinfandel happens to be part of your Thanksgiving wine plan, the rare old vine bottle from Sineann would be a great option.

Sineann 2023 Old Vine Zinfandel – This is an interesting vintage for this wine, drinking really well right off the bat with an appealing mix of pastry fruit flavors. Berries, peaches, currants, baking spices, chocolate and more. It’s a lovely bottle which seems to have jumped ahead as far as finding its perfect drinking window, which is.... wait for it... NOW. 225 cases; 14.8%; $39 (Columbia Valley) 94/100

Sineann 2023 Willamette Valley Pinot Noir – This blends barrels from many of the single vineyard selections, producing a full-flavored, front-loaded wine with a juicy mix of citrus, cranberry and savory highlights. There’s plenty of sappy acid keeping it fresh and lively. This is a wine to enjoy while it’s brand new. 180 cases; 13.4%; $30 (Willamette Valley) 90/100

Sineann 2023 Zenith Vineyard Pinot Noir – This is a firm, compact young wine, with brambly berry fruit and a mix of savory herbs. The underlying flavors bring moist earth and coffee grounds. Tannins are ripe and proportionate. 48 cases; 13.9%; $36 (Eola-Amity Hills) 90/100

Sineann 2023 Daffodil Hill Pinot Noir – Aromatic and plump with plum and berry fruit, this responds to aeration by opening up layers of fruit, tart citrus and toasty barrel highlights. The flavors are potent, but there’s a gentle side to this wine that brings a sense of elegance as it sails through a finish dappled with pepper and cinnamon accents. 48 cases; 13.6%; $36 (Eola-Amity Hills) 92/100

Sineann 2023 Hirschy Vineyard Pinot Noir – The fruit jumps out and grabs you with a splash of citrus, berry, peach and cherry. It’s round and full, framed with toasty oak and polished tannins. For immediate pleasure, given that this is such a young wine, it over-delivers. Note that all these Sineann wines are screwcapped, and that tends to keep them shut down. So aerate, decant, splash them around the glass and give them a chance to open up. This wine was still fresh and delicious on the third day. 48 cases; 14.4%; $36 (Yamhill-Carlton) 93/100

Sineann 2023 TFL Pinot Noir – Bottled in splits, this is the winery’s call on the best three barrels of Yates Conwill fruit. There’s a broad streak of vanilla, suggesting time in new barrels, with additional highlights of toast and sandalwood. Black cherry fruit is right behind, with supporting tannins bringing graphite-flecked minerality. This should be decanted; better yet tucked away for a number of years to let it resolve all the components. The score is predictive, given the ageability of this wine. 100 cases; 14.2%; $30/375ml (Willamette Valley) 94/100

Sineann 2023 Yates Conwill Vineyard Pinot Noir – This is the reserve-level vineyard source for the top performing Sineann Pinots year after year since the Resonance vineyard passed to new owners. It walks a fine line between forward and fruit-driven and vertically sculpted, suggesting that it’s both immediately enjoyable and a long term ageworthy bottle. Black cherry fruit with a touch of cassis, firm and polished tannins with mocha notes, supporting acidity in the background. The dense and detailed finish absolutely supports the notion that of all the new releases from Sineann this is the one to cellar for the long term. Still in perfect drinking condition on the third day. 100 cases; 14.4%; $42 (Yamhill-Carlton) 95/100

It’s been quite awhile since I published my tasting and reviewing guidelines, which bear repeating as new subscribers (thank you!) keep pouring in. Before I began writing this Substack I gave a lot of thought to exactly what I wanted to accomplish. Being freed from institutional guidelines and requirements, I felt I had a rare opportunity to re-think my approach to tasting and reviewing. My quidelines are as follows:

1) I will taste every wine submitted within a reasonable time period (generally no later than a month after receiving them)

2) I will post up reviews only for those that are standouts in their peer group. For example, if I’m tasting $35 Willamette Valley Pinot Noir, the ones I recommend will deliver more than the average quality to be expected in that peer group.

3) Not all wines profiled are extraordinary, but they are better than the median bottle from the same grape, blend, AVA and/or vintage. With my decades-long focus on Pacific NW wines I have built a strong sense of typicity, along with a deep appreciation for a wide range of styles.

4) In practical terms, almost all the wines I recommend will have scores of 90 and above. The exceptions would be some experimental or unique wines which fall outside of traditional boundaries but which are interesting in their own right.

5) I encourage wineries to submit a good cross-section of their wines, including club wines, so that I may evaluate them in the context of the larger portfolio. Tasting just one or two wines out of a catalog of dozens does not give me a clear picture.

6) I will link to winery websites to drive business directly to the winery, which is especially important to the small, family-owned businesses that I focus on.

7) While I truly appreciate paid subscriptions, there is no charge to submit wines, no advertisers, investors or sponsors controlling these reviews and opinions, and the material is available to all subscribers.

Thank you all for your support!