Coming Up Short – Wines That Disappear Way Too Soon

Plus: Upcoming releases from Avennia, Corliss and Liminal

Short bottles is a term my wife and I invented some years back, when it became clear that on certain occasions we had to enforce strict guidelines as to when and how much wine could be poured by each of us from a particularly excellent bottle. The normal situation in our home is to have a surfeit of good wines open, and no need to fight over that last pour. But once in awhile there’s a wine that captures that certain “It Factor” – and magically turns a recently-opened bottle into a cage fight over the dregs. That is what is known as a short bottle. A bottle that magically disappears almost as soon as it’s opened.

Such wines seem to sneak up on you. They are unpredictable. Some truly excellent wines, very well made, high scoring wines, do not turn into short bottles. While some less showy, less expensive wines do. What’s the secret?

A couple of weeks ago I hosted a well-regarded and experienced Walla Walla winemaker whom I’ve known for some years. He came up specifically to taste Pinot Noir with me, as I was in the midst of a week-long exploration of some lovely wines from EIEIO (written about last week). My friend confided that he’d never had an “aha moment” with a bottle of Pinot Noir – any Pinot Noir from anywhere. And lacking that experience he couldn’t help but wonder if the wines are over-rated, or if he was just missing something that others were not.

I had no specific expectations that an ‘aha moment’ would occur, nor did I attempt to promote one. But during an extensive afternoon of tasting, with animated discussions about each of the wines, how they differed, what winemaking techniques were used and so on, I tried to convey my love for the grape and at least some of the reasons why I find it to be special. I capped the tasting with a Shea 2016 Block 23 Pinot Noir from my cellar.

My review of that wine back in 2018 named it an Editors’ Choice and rated it at 94/100. Six plus years later it didn’t disappoint; in fact it improved. At first my guest was taken aback by the listed 14.8% abv, and such alcohol levels are less frequently found in Oregon Pinots these days. In that regard the Shea provided a nice contrast with the newer wines we were tasting, most of which were at 13% or lower.

For me it showed that Pinot Noir is a classic reflector of both site and vintage which, along with the winemaker’s preferences, can have a major impact on the alcohol in the finished wine. And as the wine warmed and shook off the years of sleep it opened into the dark, rich, meaty, full-bodied and luscious style I find typical of Shea, and especially in a Pommard clone selection such as this was.

The Shea quickly turned out to be a bonafide short bottle, even though we’d enjoyed plenty of other very fine wines in the course of the afternoon. After we’d finished re-tasting and agreed that, abv be damned, this was one very fine wine, I poured myself a glass and offered the remaining third of a bottle to my guest, who was pleased to take it home to show his wife. I’m pretty sure that didn’t make it halfway through dinner. Did it provoke an aha moment? I didn’t press the question. And even among short bottles I think such mind-blowing experiences are rare.

I’m pretty sure that a short bottle is a big step on the path to an ‘aha’ wine. But until you pull the cork and pour that first glass there really is no predicting whether or not you have opened a short bottle. The wines I pull from my cellar rarely command that sort of attention. They’re worth a glass or two and then down the drain they go. Not bad, but not riveting. It’s the wines that capture your attention and won’t let go that disappear too quickly.

If my kitchen counter, usually covered with open bottles of very good wines, were an art gallery, I’d happily wander from room to room, artist to artist, taking it all in, but waiting to discover that one piece of art that leaves me gobsmacked. You know – the one you’d take home if price were no consideration and you could have any one you wanted, but had to choose just one.

Short bottles grab hold of your senses and hang on like a dog with a bone. Or maybe they’re more like a song that gets stuck in your head – the proverbial earworm – except you can finish a bottle of wine and you can’t dislodge an earworm except with another earworm.

In the course of a week I will usually open 30 to 50 wines, some new, some old, some for review, some from the cellar. If I’m lucky one will be short. Take a moment now and think back upon your most recent short bottle. What was it? Why was it special? Did it surprise you or were you expecting it to dazzle you?

This past week the wine that sticks in my mind was a Gramercy 2023 Picpoul I shared with friends while on a sun break in Rancho Mirage. A wine recently reviewed on this Substack. But when shared, a very good bottle became a very short bottle.

Here are previews of upcoming releases from three top tier wineries. I strongly urge you to get on their mailing lists now if you want to taste some of the best wines that Washington has to offer.

Avennia

Avennia 2022 Red Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon – Just released, this is a spicy, chewy wine, loaded with black cherry fruit, and finished with ripe, slightly gritty tannins. Hints of espresso, tar and baking chocolate accompany the fruit, sailing on through a long, resonant finish. The back palate shows Red Mountain power, and time in one quarter new French oak adds light notes of sandalwood and toasted walnuts. Well built, balanced and sturdy. 336 cases; 14.5%; $60 (Red Mountain) 92/100

Avennia 2022 Valery Red – Mostly Boushey vineyard Merlot, with 12% Champoux vineyard Cab Franc filling out the blend. Due for an April release. This is already in perfect equilibrium – delicious young, balanced and complete, with the structure and depth to age as the finest Washington reds can age, which is almost indefinitely. Here are both red and black fruits, toast from 30% new barrels, and best of all a smooth, rolling finish that layers in citrus oil, orange peel and other acid-based flavors. 266 cases; 14.6%; $60 (Columbia Valley) 94/100

Avennia 2022 Estate Vineyard Red Wine – This Bordeaux blend is 42% Cab Franc, 38% Merlot and 20% Cabernet Sauvignon, significantly changed from the 2021, though using the same three grapes. The palate seems almost svelte – not silky, but smooth. Flavors glide through the mouth on a bed of polished tannins – cassis, black cherry, mocha. There’s a swatch of clean earth, graphite and coffee grounds, and as the wine opens up nuanced notes of lemongrass and verbena peek through the trailing finish. 119 cases; 14.6%; $75 (Red Mountain) 95/100

Avennia 2022 Sestina Cabernet Sauvignon – This Left Bank-inspired wine blends 78% Cabernet Sauvignon, 14% Merlot and 8% Cabernet Franc, sourced from old vine Bacchus, Dionysus, Red Willow and DuBrul grapes. Textured, detailed and deep, this exceptional wine shows both the winemaker’s blending skills and also the shortcomings of the Columbia Valley AVA, which can also be used for the state’s most generic wines. This wine belongs among those at the top, with ripe black fruits, silky/dusty tannins, powdered coffee and a trailing finish that promises a long life ahead. 488 cases; 14.6%; $75 (Columbia Valley) 96/100

Corliss

Corliss does consumers a big favor by holding back vintages an extra three years prior to release. This is an expensive (for the winery) choice, but it ensures that these wines, which are big, structured reds made for long term cellaring, will be at least approachable upon release. Here are notes on the upcoming 2020 wines due out later this year.

Corliss 2020 Red Bordeaux Blend – It’s easy to run out of superlatives for Corliss. The vineyards meticulously cared for, the winemaking focused on the tiniest details, and the entire portfolio is laser-focused on just three red wines. But beyond that, the wines are held back and released with years of additional bottle age. This Red and the Cabernet are due out this fall; the Syrah will be out in the spring. This edition of the Bordeaux blend is 60% Cabernet Franc and 40% Cabernet Sauvignon. Aromatically compelling, it’s classic and stylish, powerful, dark and packed with black fruits accented with notes of graphite, coffee grounds and barrel spice. The density is the equal of Napa’s finest, with sculpted tannins and compressed power that makes it seem ready to explode out of the glass. 490 cases; $110 (Red Mountain) 98/100 Release Date: Fall 2025

Corliss 2020 Cabernet Sauvignon – 97% Cabernet Sauvignon, 3% Cabernet Franc. As always it’s a treat to taste the Corliss Cab and Red side-by-side, one dominated by Cab Franc, the other almost 100% Cabernet Sauvignon. A slight nod to the Red in 2020, maybe just a reflection of my love for the Franc. This is tight, pure and laser focused with pinpoint flavors of black fruits, cassis, lead pencil and barrel toast. Tannins are full, ripe and granular; this wine is due for release in the fall (after extra years of bottle age) and will benefit from even further aging. Corliss wines are built from the ground up to age for decades, although with careful decanting they may certainly be enjoyed upon release. 717 cases; $130 (Red Mountain) 96/100 Release Date: Fall 2025

Corliss 2020 Syrah – This pure Syrah builds upon concentrated black fruits, graphite, wet stone and touches of licorice and tobacco. Hints of match stick surround a lush mid-palate with blackberry, loganberry, black cherry and sandalwood. I love the density, depth and detail here, with toasted walnuts coming up through the finish. The sappy acids promise long ageability. 337 cases; $90 (Columbia Valley) 97/100 Release Date: Spring 2025

Liminal

There’s nothing minimal about Liminal except maybe the stark white lettering imprinted on the bottles in lieu of labels. These wines are all sourced from the WeatherEye vineyard and made by Avennia’s Chris Peterson. Highly allocated and you must sign up for a chance to purchase.

Liminal 2022 Vineyard Series WeatherEye Vineyard The Aerialist – The use of the Columbia Valley AVA suggests that these grapes were grown on the north side of Red Mountain, beyond the official AVA, and part of the astonishing new plantings at WeatherEye. It’s a 70/30 Roussanne/Marsanne blend, aged 16 months in 30% new French oak (including at 500L puncheon). It’s aromatic with floral, slightly soapy notes. Big in the mouth, packed with a jumble of citrus, peach and melon fruits, it gently opens into layers of linalool, vanilla and herbal tea around the core fruit. It’s a unique take on this type of blend, and further confirmation that the extraordinary work done by WeatherEye viticulturalist Ryan Johnson is paying huge dividends. 47 cases; 14.8%; $50 (Columbia Valley) 96/100 Due for release next month.

Liminal 2022 Vineyard Series WeatherEye Vineyard ‘The Mountain Tower’ Red – Liminal’s blends change significantly from vintage to vintage, a good sign that vintage variation is in play. This new cuvée is 40% Cabernet Franc, 33% Cabernet Sauvignon and 27% Merlot, fermented in both concrete and steel, and aged 18 months in neutral casks and a concrete egg. It’s compelling from first sniff to last swallow, a tie-dyed Bordeaux blend offering a complex tapestry of blue and black berries, Asian spices, chai tea, mocha and more. Great balance, length and development all through to the (lightly) bitter end. 166 cases; 14.8%; $90 (Columbia Valley) 96/100

Liminal 2022 Block Highlight Series WeatherEye Vineyard Block 47 Cabernet Sauvignon – This single block 100% Cabernet spent 22 months 70% new French oak (down from 100% new in 2021). It has the focus and penetration of mountain grown grapes, tightly bound, compact and showing compressed black fruits and grainy tannins with accent flavors of granite and graphite and coffee grounds. The wine’s purity and density demands decanting or at minimum another half decade of bottle age. On the second day the wine begins to open grudgingly. 1961 Latour? Time will tell. 140 cases; 14.8%; $125 (Red Mountain) 97/100

Liminal 2022 Block Highlight Series WeatherEye Vineyard Block 16 Syrah – Due for release in March, this is unsurprisingly tightly wound and tannic, with a compact mix of dense berry fruits and accents of smoke, char and espresso. It’s been given 18 months in 50% new 500 L puncheons. With a full day to breathe it expands, with a full palate of raspberry fruit, almost like jam, but supported with bright acids. 97 cases; 15%; $70 (Columbia Valley) 95/100

Liminal 2022 High Canyon Series WeatherEye Vineyard Syrah – Previously released, this is a classic, pure varietal with textbook flavors. It’s a compact mix of cassis, blueberry and cherry, framed with subtle baking spices. The flavors broaden out across the palate, with incense and peppermint details. Complex and seamless, this comes to a fine focus through the finish, with highlights of chocolate, candied orange peel and that lingering hint of mint. 92 cases; 15%; $85 (Red Mountain) 96/100

Submitting Wines For Review: It's important that you confirm via email (paulgwine@me.com) that I will be home to sign for wine submissions BEFORE shipping them. Include (or email) the following information for every wine: case quantities, release dates and full retail price. Background on vineyard sources and winemaking details is always a plus. Please send a good representative sample of your entire portfolio. I want the most complete look at your work possible. All wines will be tasted; only reviews and scores for recommended wines will be published. You are welcome to use my notes, scores and reviews for your marketing efforts. No need to write me for permission. Please link to this Substack.