A Young Wine Lover’s Advice To Wineries Courting Next Gen Drinkers
Plus recommended new wines from Argyle, Brigadoon, Canvasback, Elk Cove & Ponzi
First and foremost, my heartfelt prayers for vineyard manager Moises Sotelo and his family. A much-loved and hard-working man with decades of valuable experience working the vineyards in Oregon, Sotelo was kidnapped by ICE as he was heading to work on June 12th. This article in the Guardian explains that ICE is claiming that Sotelo “first entered the United States illegally in 2006” and has a “criminal conviction for DUI in Newberg, Oregon”. Sotelo’s family says that he came to the United States in the early 1990s. The Yamhill county district attorney’s office has found no evidence of DUI charges.
According to other reports Sotelo was on a path to citizenship and had recently started his own vineyard management business. When the lives of hard-working, tax-paying immigrants are disrupted to such a degree – suddenly, illegally, haphazardly – one can only conclude that a dictatorship has taken root in the United States of America. A sad time for us all.
A few weeks ago I received this message from a stranger: “I hope you're doing well! My name is Luke Reiss, and I’m early in my career in the wine industry. I wanted to reach out because I recently launched the first edition of my new newsletter, The Next Vintage, where I explore how younger consumers, like myself, are reshaping branding, transparency, and expectations in the wine industry. I thought it might be of interest given your work and perspective in the industry. Though I'm still learning, I’m excited to contribute a younger point of view to the dialogue around where wine branding is headed. I’d be honored if you gave it a read.”
I was intrigued. I read Luke’s newsletter and found it well written and thoughtful. I replied with some thoughts on how it might be improved. A couple of weeks later a second essay was posted, headlined with this introduction:
“Too many wine brands are trying to be something they’re not. In today’s market the wines that stand out—especially to younger drinkers—are the ones that feel honest. In my latest piece, I dive into why authenticity and transparency aren’t just nice to have, they’re your story. And they’re what makes people care.”
On his LinkedIn page Luke identifies himself as a ‘Wine Branding & Marketing|Communications and Economics Student’. I asked if he’d let me run his essay here, and requested a bit of background on his wine experience.
LR: “My interest in wine has been fostered pretty much my whole life. My dad grew up in German wine country, and both of his parents worked at a winery. He would eventually get into branding, and when he moved to San Luis Obispo in 1997 focused his branding and design on wine, founding Kraftwerk Design. Growing up, wine was always on the dinner table, and I have fond memories of walking through the wine aisle reviewing labels and telling him which did or didn't have my approval.
“Now that I am older and studying communications and finance at Western Washington University, I’m starting to assume a more professional role in the industry. For Kraftwerk Design I am in charge of website copy, brand content, and communication outreach. In the coming years I want to help wine brands reconnect with a younger audience and really show what wine has to offer. I believe that wine is not only an incredible way to bring people together, but that it can be enjoyed in a variety of settings, without judgement or exclusion. That’s why I started my opinion piece on LinkedIn, to share the thoughts of somebody who is young and observing the trends of the industry.”
Here is the piece he wrote in pursuit of those goals for his newsletter – The Next Vintage.
Authenticity and Transparency: Telling your story in wine
Let’s face it—there’s a lot of noise in wine marketing right now. Too many brands are either over-polished, overly mysterious, or just copying whatever worked for someone else five years ago. But if you actually want to get the attention of a younger audience—and earn their trust—you don’t need gimmicks. You need two things: Authenticity and transparency. That’s it. These aren’t marketing trends. They’re the baseline. And the brands that get this are the ones that will actually last.
Authenticity: Show Off Who You Are
If you’re making an affordable wine meant to be shared over pizza, on a weeknight, with no ceremony, be proud of that. Own it. Don’t try to dress it up like a trophy bottle. And if you’re making something small-lot, structured, and built to age, stand tall in that too. But you need to make it meaningful. Don’t just say it’s bespoke, show people why it matters.
What today's drinkers are looking for isn’t status. It’s clarity. We want to feel like the wine we’re buying knows what it is and isn’t afraid to show it. When a brand is confident in its identity (whether that’s playful and punchy or serious and refined) it becomes easier to trust, and easier to connect with.
I'm in my early 20s. I’ve seen friends pick up a bottle, keep it on their counter, show it off. Not because they want people to know they drink that wine, but because it's got character. It’s approachable. It’s intentional. It stands for something, whether that’s being lighthearted and bold, or simply not pretending to be more than it is.
And this isn’t just about entry-level wines. The same rule applies at every tier. Whether you’re producing a $15 red blend or a $95 Pinot Noir, the goal is the same: be clear about what you are—and be proud of it. When a brand leads with that kind of honesty, it resonates.
The wonder is, although young drinkers are especially tuned into this (maybe because we’ve grown up with more marketing noise than any generation before) everyone responds to authenticity. When a wine stands for something, it opens the door for people to form real, lasting connections with it. That’s what brand loyalty actually looks like. Not exclusivity, but recognition. A wine that’s proud of what it is gives people a reason to be proud of drinking it.
Transparency: Let People In
Just as important. People want to know how and why their wine was made. Not because they’re judging you, but because they’re curious, and they care. Tell them:
How you farm
How you ferment
What you’re proud of
What you’re still working on
You don’t have to pretend to be perfect. In fact, it’s better if you’re not. New wine drinkers respond to honesty. If you’re using conventional practices, say so. If you’re working toward sustainability, talk about it. If you’re experimenting with new blends or processes, invite people into that. Transparency builds trust. And trust builds a following.
So How Do You Tell Your Story?
Your story is more than an ‘About’ page. It's the sum of what you believe, how you operate, and, most importantly, how clearly you share that. When authenticity and transparency come together, the story becomes obvious. It feels honest. It feels lived-in. And it becomes something people actually want to support. But conveying that isn't always easy.
The real question is how are you telling that story? Through your label, your website, your copywriting. Every piece of communication matters. And when it’s built with intention, when the design reflects the soul of the wine, when the copy is clear and grounded in you, that’s when it works. It needs to feel true to itself, and if it does, the right people will show up for it.
Because when people understand what you’re about, they remember you; and they come back. I’m writing this not to call anyone out, but to call more people in. There’s a whole generation of drinkers like myself who want to love wine. Who want to understand it. Who are ready to support brands that feel real and worth following. And there's a whole collective of brands with touching stories to tell. Let them see you. Not a version of you. You.”
PG: I’m running this essay because it’s clear, thoughtful advice. And because I believe that someone speaking directly to their own generation can be more impactful than advice – however well-intentioned – from elders. I am gratified that Luke reached out to me as well as to his peers.
New And Noteworthy Releases
Argyle
Argyle 2014 Extended Tirage Brut – This is the new release; all wines in the Extended Tirage series get a minimum of a full decade of aging on the gross lees prior to disgorgement. A blend of 65% Pinot Noir, 30% Chardonnay and 5% Pinot Meunier, it aims for a Champagne-type complexity, and nails it. A fine bead amps up the mouthfeel, and fermentation in some oak, though neutral, seems to add hints of toast. There are subtle notes of metal, rock and spice scattered throughout, making for a deep, penetrating and compelling drink. Interesting note – the dosage used is a house-made solera of Argyle Chardonnay that dates from 2005. 1550 6/pack cases; 12.5%; $85 (Willamette Valley) 96/100
Argyle 2023 NutHouse Chardonnay – Fresh and steely, this doesn’t show much trace of the 30% new French oak barrels in which it spent a year. That’s not a criticism, and the wine has plenty of ripe citrus and apple fruit flavor. Would a bit more barrel spice contribute extra depth and texture? For me it would. 375 cases; 13.5%; $50 (Eola-Amity Hills) 91/100
Argyle 2023 NutHouse Pinot Noir – Solid varietal character in a blocky wine that pushes past nuance into firm, well-channeled fruit. Berry and plum, hints of citrus and a nice burst of sandalwood carry it from start to finish. Drinking quite well already, this should hold well through the rest of the decade. 725 cases; 13.8%; $65 (Eola-Amity Hills) 92/100
Brigadoon 2024 Dry Riesling – Tasted for the first time since 2019, this is very much in line with my notes for the Riesling from that vintage. If you enjoy a high acid style, somewhat offset by the wine’s 6 grams/liter residual sugar – just enough to round things off a bit – this brings it. Flavors of dried apples, orange slices, pink grapefruit and lemon rind continue through a medium-long finish. 115 cases; 12.9%; $27 (Willamette Valley) 91/100
Brigadoon 2024 Rosé of Pinot Noir – Aromas of spun sugar and apple blossoms kickstart this fresh and lively rosé. All estate-grown Pommard clone grapes are used, building to a medium-full bodied core of apple and melon fruit, lightly dappled with cinnamon spice. Good balance and plenty of acid through the finish. 226 cases; 13.5; $24 (Willamette Valley) 90/100
Brigadoon 2023 Lower Long Tom Pinot Noir – Named for the recently-christened AVA, this estate-grown wine is firm, tannic and still tightly wound. Red currant, raspberry and rhubarb flavors compete with savory herbs. The finish is astringent but layered with accents of citrus, toast from 25% new French oak and a streak of cold coffee. 152 cases; 13.9%; $36 (Lower Long Tom) 91/100
Canvasback
Following the announcement that the new owners of the Duckhorn portfolio were closing down the Canvasback brand a lot of unanswered questions remain. These 2022 wines arrived at my door a day after the press release went out about the closure. No mention of the wines in production from the 2023 or 2024 vintages, nor any indication of plans for the estate vineyard(s) being developed. Just an abrupt turnaround because, well, the numbers didn’t add up. These are the latest releases, from a vintage started by winemaker Brian Rudin and finished by his successor Joe Czarny.
Canvasback 2022 Red Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon – A half dozen vineyards contribute, and the blend has a smattering of four other grapes. One third of the barrels were new. It’s got clear Cabernet strength and focus, with graphite and cassis, espresso and plenty of tannins. Stops a little short and turns astringent, with mouth-drying tannins. 14.5%; $35 (Red Mountain) 91/100
Canvasback 2022 Les Collines Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon – A shadow of the excellent ’21 in terms of the overall depth and detail. Lightly leafy, tannic, astringent, with black fruits accented with charred wood, tobacco, espresso grounds and dark chocolate. It’s a wine to drink soon, with something to cut the astringency. 14.5%; $76 (Walla Walla Valley) 91/100
Canvasback 2022 Grand Passage Cabernet Sauvignon – Mostly Cabernet, with 11% Merlot and 5% Malbec also. This is the top Cab and sees 85% new French oak for 19 months. It’s smooth and anchored in the mid-palate, but turns astringent and slightly grainy through the finish. The tannins take over quickly, muting the complexity and restraining the loganberry fruit. It finishes with a lick of dark chocolate and espresso. 14.5%; $90 (Red Mountain) 91/100
Canvasback 2022 Red Mountain Malbec – Sourced from the Klipsun vineyard, with 16% Cabernet Sauvignon blended in, presumably to beef it up a bit. Aged 16 months in half new French oak, the barrel flavors push the lighter fruit into the background. More time in bottle will ameliorate that, letting the fruit shine through. For now it’s a chocolatey, smooth red that may be enjoyed immediately with ample aeration. 14.5%; $58 (Red Mountain) 91/100
Canvasback 2024 Rosé of Syrah – Sourced from the Gamache vineyard, this deep and rich rosé brings a full palate of melon, citrus rind and gooseberry. Fermented and aged in neutral barrels, it adds hints of graham cracker and dappled spice through the finish. 13.8%; $34 (White Bluffs) 91/100
Canvasback 2022 Funk Vineyard Syrah – The Funk vineyard (owned by Saviah's Rich Funk) expresses the essence of the Rocks District in an elegant, restrained style. Make no mistake – you do taste the specific character of this unique AVA in this well-balanced wine aged in one quarter new oak. Beautifully proportioned, it opens with coffee grounds, tobacco and composted earth around ripe blackberries and cassis. Dark chocolate wraps around powdery tannins as it continues through a long, rich finish. 14.5%; $76 (Walla Walla Valley) 95/100
Ponzi Vineyards
Ponzi 2023 Laurelwood Chardonnay – From three estate and one non-estate vineyards, this young Chardonnay walks a tightrope between a steely underpinning and buttery post-malo lushness. There are elements of both not quite (yet) in sync. The structure and components are all fine, what’s needed is a bit more time in bottle to meld it all together. 2501 cases: 13.2%; $43 (Laurelwood District) 91-92/100
Ponzi 2023 Pinot Gris – Crisp and delicious, this hints at pétillance and tickles the tastebuds with a well-textured display of lime, grapefruit, apple and starfruit. Two thirds was sourced from estate vineyards, and fermentation was done in stainless steel. A shining example of this more-than-ever essential and affordable white wine. 9543 cases; 13.2%; $19 (Willamette Valley) 93/100
Ponzi 2023 Tavola Pinot Noir – Half estate, half purchased grapes combine in this affordable Pinot. Now under French ownership, the quality of this big production (for Oregon) wine is better than ever, while the price keeps it especially noteworthy. Clean and varietal, with fresh herbs threaded around red fruits, this trails out with a lightly peppery note. 13512 cases; 13.2%; $29 (Willamette Valley) 91/100
Ponzi 2023 Laurelwood Pinot Noir – Estate vineyards supply the lion’s share of this widely-available cuvée, designed as a showcase for the Laurelwood soils that give the AVA its name and purpose. Smooth, almost soft, with a patina of sandalwood over wild strawberry and raspberry fruit, this punches through with peppery herbs resonating across the palate. It finishes broad and balanced, showing a hint of butterscotch in the finish. 7934 cases; 13.3%; $47 (Laurelwood District) 91/100
Ponzi 2022 Avellana Vineyard Pinot Noir – The multi-clone massale planting dates from 2006, now bringing lush aromatics coupled with mature fruit to the forefront. There’s a richness across the palate, with red plums and cherries set against hints of pine sap and peppery thistle. The texture is admirable, and though still quite young it’s already a captivating bottle. Best guess is optimal drinking would be throughout the 2030s. 196 cases; 14%; $115 (Laurelwood District) 94/100
Ponzi 2021 Reserve Pinot Noir – This is the current release of this all-estate bottling. Fermentation included 18% whole clusters with a five day cold soak; the wine aged in one third new French oak. Note that this is a different vintage from the other Pinots reviewed here, and that plus more time in bottle works to its advantage. While keeping to the style of Ponzi, it is a bit smoother and better integrated, with a mix of strawberry, rhubarb, white raspberry and plum, accented with a mix of Italian herbs. With texture and captivating complexity, this wine continued to drink beautifully 48+ hours after being opened. Impressive! 2947 (6-pack) cases; 14%; $75 (Laurelwood District) 96/100
Elk Cove 2022 Old School Pinot Noir – This cuvée blends estate grown fruit from the Mount Richmond and Roosevelt vineyards. It’s full and balanced, with peppery tartness, firm acids, brambly berries and a big core of strawberry and red currant fruit. It builds to a full throttle mid-palate and holds tight, moving into a blocky, powerful, steady-state finish. It trails out with astringent touches of caramel and mocha coffee. 14.2%; $75 (Willamette Valley) 92/100
Elk Cove 2022 Clay Court Pinot Noir – Aromas of plum and chocolate pop up from the glass, leading into a focused, detailed young Pinot with tart raspberry and blood orange fruit. Moderate (usually 20%) new French oak puts a lightly toasty frame around it, perfectly balanced against the fruit and acid. This has the precision and depth to age well, as shown by the 2017 which I opened as a comparison. 13.5%; $70 (Chehalem Mountains) 93/100
From The Cellar
Elk Cove 2017 Clay Court Pinot Noir – My first thought turns to Shakespeare (‘Antony and Cleopatra’): "Age cannot wither her, nor custom stale her infinite variety" – a fine description of this Clay Court at almost 8 years of age. OK, maybe too soon to wither, but you’d be surprised at how many wines don’t make it this far. Here’s a Pinot Noir in full bloom, the rawness of youth slightly softened, the balance still true, the fruit a bowl of ripe raspberries and cherries. Many years of life still ahead. In today’s terms I’d rate it 94/100.
My original review of this wine appeared in Wine Enthusiast five years ago.
Elk Cove 2017 Clay Court Pinot Noir – Made from Pommard and Dijon vines atop Parrett Mountain, this is a spicy wine with pinpoint flavors of mountain berries, backed with juicy citrus. A finesse wine, stylish and deep, the details remain in sharp focus through a mineral-backed finish. 734 cases; 13.5%; $60 (Chehalem Mountains) 92/100
How I Organize My Tastings: Since leaving Wine Enthusiast and wrapping up the other freelance work I’d been doing for print and digital media, I have rebuilt my tasting practices from the ground up. I will continue to taste wines with winemakers when I am visiting wineries, to share philosophies and discuss tasting practices. But tastings for all published reviews and scores will take place only at home under tightly controlled conditions. I open no more than a half dozen wines at a time and often retaste them repeatedly over 24 – 48 hours. I use specific stemware and eliminate all distractions such as cooking smells, food, music and all media. My focus is exclusively on the wines. These are almost always newly-released wines. I believe it’s far more important to know their context and history than to put a brown paper bag over them so I won’t lose my ‘objectivity.’ I’m opinionated. You can agree or disagree, but you’ll always know what I think. Put my notes in a pile labeled ‘Wines Tasted With Context’ and put the rest in a pile labeled ‘Wines Tasted In A Brown Paper Bag’. I leave it to you to choose the ones you find more meaningful.
Reading the young wine writers piece, I couldn’t help but think of how Cayuse and Bionic Wines checked all of his boxes. Good luck young man!
Great article and analysis