Woodward Canyon 2006 Estate Red

I take a look back at an estate reserve. How's it faring at 16 years of age?

My original review of this wine, published in the spring of 2009, reads “This is Woodward Canyon's reserve—the best lots of Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot create this very limited wine. It is built to age, and reflects the tight and muscular style that Rick Small has developed over the years. There is a strong mineral-metal vein running through the black and blue fruits, and some very lively spicy highlights. Tannins are ripe but firm, and this is a wine that will benefit from further cellaring.”

I gave it 95 points (really high score for back then) and rated it a ‘Cellar Selection.’ It also made the magazine’s Top 100 wines of the year.

This particular bottle has been in my cellar ever since, though it was subjected to at least one or two moves along the way. Nonetheless, except for a lightly ripped label, it is in perfect condition. At 16+ years of age it has benefitted from cellaring, although that is an easy prediction to make with Rick Small’s wines. They are (or at least were) reductive from the get-go, which may be one reason why Woodward Canyon and Leonetti Cellar, the first two wineries in Walla Walla, made by close friends from their amateur winemaking days, draw such different critical responses. Even the young Leonetti wines grab you instantly, with ripe fruit and a lush mix of sweet and toasty new barrel flavors. When first released the Woodward Canyon reds can be stiff, unyielding, even a bit sullen. They ask a lot more of the taster when they are young, and like fine Bordeaux, they don’t show their best without years of bottle age.

The blend here is 42% Cab Franc, 35% Merlot, 14% Cabernet Sauvignon and 9% Petit Verdot, all from estate-grown grapes. That sort of blend was almost unheard of back in 2009, but it’s beautifully proportioned, well-integrated and as powerful as its 14.8% listed alcohol would suggest. Even at this age it was pretty tight when opened last nigh. I poured a glass and decanted the rest; leaving it in the decanter for 24 hours before re-tasting it just now, and it’s better by far today. Aromatic, textured, with slightly grainy tannins and a mix of plush pastry fruits, it’s a tribute to great winemaking and the pleasures of maintaining a wine cellar.

And I confess, I’m rather pleased looking back on that original review. I think I nailed it

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