Why Some Wines Don’t Make The Cut

Plus: New releases that did: Quady North, Ricochet and Rolling Bay

On occasion I send out requests for samples, and I am clear about guidelines. I ask for a good representative sample of the winery’s portfolio. Simply tasting one or two wines does not provide a meaningful overview, unless you send wines regularly. I guarantee that all wines will be tasted, but only reviews and scores for recommended wines will be published. There is never any charge to submit wines, nor any add-on fees for such extras as e-blasts and label photos.

When I started writing exclusively on Substack two years ago I made the decision to focus on the highest quality wines possible. Inevitably many of these wines can be expensive. Which means that for me to recommend them they must deliver a level of quality and interest that warrants the cost.

Yes, I love to find under $20 wines I can recommend, but they are few and far between. Good wines are expensive to produce, and for most small businesses there must be a profit, however small, in order for the business to survive. Given my focus on the Pacific Northwest, there are few companies with the size, scale and dedication to quality that can offer exceptional, affordable and widely available wines.

I rarely comment specifically on wine pricing. That said, if I believe that prices are waay out of line with other wines of comparable quality, I won’t publish notes on those wines. I never want to damn a wine with faint praise, nor recommend a wine that isn’t significantly better than the stuff you find case stacked at the supermarket or in the bargain bin at the chain retailers.

When I worked within the corporate world for a media company doing sales presentations and product rollouts for a wide variety of clients, we lived by the following guideline. We knew that every client wanted high quality, a low cost and a quick turnaround for every project Choose any two we told them. You cannot get all three.

The wines from smaller producers that don’t make the cut generally fail because when compared with comparable varietals or blends they just aren’t as good. Sometimes they are too thin, sometimes too ripe, sometimes unbalanced, sometimes over-oaked, sometimes so high in alcohol that all nuance is blown out. Yes these are subjective considerations, and I own them completely. But in service to my readers first and foremost, I strive to maintain high but transparent standards. My recommendations should mean something, and if they don’t, I expect readers will desert me.

Glad to report that’s not happening. This Substack is on a steady growth curve, with both free and paid subscribers on the rise, along with the number of monthly page views and the percentage of posts opened and read. It’s a pleasure to taste so many really good wines, and it’s the result of these guidelines and the fact that the wines submitted are mostly self-selected for quality. The big brands may continue to ignore me, and that’s probably best for everyone.

Quady North is the poster child for high value, brilliantly made and compelling wines that remain a bit under the radar for many consumers. Anchored in Southern Oregon since opening in 2006, Quady owner Herb Quady and partners Brian Gruber and Nichole Schulte have focused their efforts on finding the sites and varieties that can thrive there. Having tasted multiple vintages of their wines over more than a decade I absolutely concur with their focus on Rhône varieties and blends. Quady North’s Viognier, Marsanne, Roussanne, Grenache Blanc, Grenache and Syrah are distinctive and reliably of top tier quality. Pricing remains low by comparison with similar wines from farther north.

Here’s a look at the most recent releases, starting with this marvelous white blend. Purchase here.

Quady North 2023 Pistoleta – This fruit-driven wine mixes Viognier, Roussanne and Marsanne with small amounts of Grenache Blanc and Vermentino. Ripe flavors of Meyer lemon, Key lime, pink grapefruit, crisp apple and Asian pear bring a wonderful fullness across the palate. There’s ample acidity to bolster the finish and keep those flavors fresh and vibrant, with a hint of wet stone as it fades. A delicious white wine and a very fine value that is also available in a 3L box version. 2194 cases; 12.9%; $20 (Rogue Valley) 92/100

Quady North 2022 GSM – Principally Syrah, 21% Grenache and 18% Mourvèdre (so more of an SGM). This changes proportions from past vintages but reflects the winery’s commitment to working with whatever the vintage gives them to make the best possible wines. This is dark and spicy, full-bodied without losing details. An aromatic mix of berries, spices and lightly composted earth, the vineyard sources include some of Southern Oregon’s best – Longwalk, Layne, Mae’s and Steelhead Run. Young, juicy and sharp (20% of the barrels were new), I’d give this extra aeration and/or a bit more bottle age if drinking it soon. 483 cases; 13.8%; $28 (Rogue Valley) 92/100

Quady North 2023 Bomba Grenache – A light cherry color, this elegant wine hits a different part of the Grenache flavor spectrum than the examples featured in my post last week. It’s the color of Pinot Noir, with bright cherry candy flavors and highlights of peppery spice. Clean, fresh and lively, it lingers through a pleasantly lingering finish. 409 cases; 13%; $27 (Applegate Valley) 91/100

Quady North 2020 Steelhead Run Vineyard Syrah – The aggressive garrigue (herbal) components that characterize this vineyard create a distinctive style – a lighter cousin to the umami-soaked, rock-driven, savory meatiness that defines Syrahs from the Rocks District up north. This cuvée is given extra bottle age prior to release – this is the current vintage. Fans of Gramercy Syrahs would do well to check this wine out. Firm, sophisticated, compact and long through the finish, it closes with a dark, tarry streak of cinnamon and espresso. On the second day it’s smoother, richer and fruitier. 60 cases; 14%; $39 (Applegate Valley) 94/100

Quady North 2021 Mae’s Vineyard Syrah – A well-woven tapestry of berries, teas, floral highlights and forest floor umami flavors. Dark, supple, clean and beautifully structured, this exceptional Syrah is delicious now and cellarable for another decade plus of improvement. When first opened the aromas promise exceptional length and depth, though it requires significant aeration to bring it out into fullness. Berries, plums, baking spices, vanilla and hints of cut tobacco add more and more threads to the flavor. A stunning value in a great Syrah. 126 cases; 13.6%; $35 (Applegate Valley) 95/100

Quady North 2020 Cabernet Franc – The winery points to “red pepper, loam and tobacco that have come to define the expression of this variety in the Applegate Valley” and I concur. It’s aromatic, open and fruity, while retaining the depth and detail that makes the best Cab Francs ageworthy. Blackberry fruit and coffee ground flavors are here in full force, also defining characteristics of great Cabernet Franc. One third of the barrels were new. 176 cases; 14%; $35 (Applegate Valley) 94/100

Ricochet Wine Company

In September Ricochet opened a new production space and wine bar in McMinnville. Very well made wines with a mix of Willamette Valley and Walla Walla vineyard sources.

Ricochet 2023 Les Collines Vineyard M-R-V – This Marsanne/Roussanne/Viognier blend shows an especially fine winemaking hand at the controls, as the three grapes in the mix all contribute value while none dominates. The color and texture suggest some barrel aging and/or fermentation, but the fruit shines through with lush flavors of Meyer lemon, pink grapefruit, Honeycrisp apples and Asian pear. 155 cases; 13%; $32 (Walla Walla Valley) 93/100

Ricochet 2023 Jubilee Vineyard Gamay Noir – Gamay is having a bit of a resurgence in the Willamette Valley and the wines these days are substantially better than what I recall from decades ago. Maybe the vines are older, maybe the climate is warmer, maybe the winemaking is more careful; whatever the reason examples such as this are not hard to find and highly enjoyable for springtime quaffing. (Does anyone quaff these days?) This is a pretty wine, with bright cranberry and strawberry fruit, sassy acids, and just enough tannin to lightly frame the finish. Best enjoyed chilled. 150 cases; 13.5%; $40 (Eola-Amity Hills) 91/100

Ricochet 2022 Les Collines Vineyard Tempranillo – Walla Walla Tempranillo has yet to establish a clear distinction as a unique varietal wine, but if you simply want a spicy, fresh, red wine alternative to the usual suspects this is a fine option. Blood red, with a mix of brambly berries, plums and cherries, this has good grip and length without being overpowering. I’m thinking tri-tip hot off the grill on the first warm spring day would be ideal for this wine. The finish brings a mix of earth, bark, dried leaves and coffee grounds, darker accents around drying tannins that keep it going as long as you keep paying attention. 150 cases; 13.5%; $45 (Walla Walla Valley) 91/100

Ricochet 2022 Pinot Noir – This hits a bullseye for multi-vineyard Willamette Valley Pinot Noir. Complex aromas promise a silky mix of berries, and the palate delivers with a pleasing jumble of red, purple and black fruits. There’s a dusting of cocoa and baking spices, smooth tannins and lingering accents of sandalwood incense. 250 cases; 14.25%; $45 (Willamette Valley) 92/100

Ricochet 2022 Holmes Gap Vineyard Pinot Noir – All Pommard clone, with 30% whole cluster fermentation, this soaks the palate with a burst of purple fruits, a hint of mint, and a wash of pretty baking spices. The soft, smooth finish continues along a light and flavorful trail of spices and barrel flavors from aging in 25% new French oak. 100 cases; 14.5%; $65 (Van Duzer Corridor) 92/100

Ricochet 2022 Eola Springs Vineyard Pinot Noir – The complexity on display here is a reflection of the unusual clones (Swan and Calera), the regenerative farming, the 30% whole cluster fermentation and time in 30% new French oak. It comes together in a young wine that opens with appealing aromas of baked apple pie and a dusting of garam masala spices that set it off on a somewhat exotic path. The threads are tightly woven and need time to untangle, but this is a deep and detailed wine that should be hitting its prime in the 2030s. For now give it plenty of breathing time and enjoy the rich spices, the jumbled fruits, the tangy acidity and captivating, lingering finish. 75 cases; 13.4%; $65 (Eola-Amity Hills) 94/100

Rolling Bay

Owner/Winemaker Alphonse de Klerk bonded his winery in 2007. Although the winery is on Bainbridge Island due west of Seattle, de Klerk focuses on old vines and unusual varieties from eastern Washington’s Upland, Lewis and Elephant Mountain vineyards.

A look at the website shows an impressive list of medals from a variety of wine competitions, but not a single review from a credible publication or blog. Which may explain why I had no prior knowledge of Rolling Bay when these wines arrived, and was puzzled at first by the back vintages. But de Klerk assures me that these are all the most recent and current releases, and as you can tell from my notes, I found them to be well made and in excellent drinking condition.

Rolling Bay 2020 Reserve Chardonnay – A deep gold color, this punches through with barrel spice and a core of full-bodied tree fruits. Interesting accents of coconut and vanilla (more barrel impacts) wrap the finish. Drink up. 12.8%; $41 (Snipes Mountain) 88/100

Rolling Bay 2020 Upland Vineyard Graciano – Rare anywhere in the U.S., this is from a block planted in 2007 on Snipes Mountain. Kudos to winemaker Alphonse de Klerk for presenting a well-balanced, dark fruited, deep and textured example. Lightly spicy, bursting with blackberry and black cherry fruit, it’s finished with dark streaks of chocolate and tobacco. 98 cases; 14.1%; $45 (Snipes Mountain) 91/100

Rolling Bay 2019 Tempranillo – From vines planted in 2007, this is one of the most interesting Tempranillos I’ve ever tasted from Washington state. It’s balanced, spicy and complex, with light red fruits veined with dried herbs. Perhaps it’s the blend that makes it work so well, as it comes with an inclusion of 20% Grenache and 5% Graciano. It’s certainly a one of a kind wine. Good length and detail throughout. 163 cases; 13.7%; $38 (Snipes Mountain) 91/100

Rolling Bay 2019 Upland Vineyard Grenache – The blend includes 20% Mourvèdre and a splash of Syrah. They amplify the flavors, bringing spice and herbal accents to the bright berry fruit of Grenache. It’s a lovely blend, full-flavored and lingering through the finish with a hint of mint resonating at the end. 163 cases; 14.9%; $39 (Snipes Mountain) 92/100

Rolling Bay 2019 Cabernet Franc – Sourced from Elephant Mountain vineyard, this is the current release from this Bainbridge Island winery. This grape, as my reports last spring showed, is a superstar in the Rattlesnake Hills, and this wine captures the magic. Extra bottle age softens the tannins and smoothes the finish, keeping the dark fruits and coffee ground highlights in balance front and center. The power shows best in the mid-palate; as it fades away the tannins tend to take over. I can’t think of a better wine for your grilled steak, tri-tip or burgers. 120 cases; 14.5%; $38 (Rattlesnake Hills) 92/100

Rolling Bay 2020 Upland Vineyard Mourvèdre – A pure Mourvèdre is not easy to find, and this one, from one of the smallest AVAs in Washington, is a delight. Pretty cherry fruit is laced with black tea, licorice and a hint of tar. The balance is spot on, with ample acidity and herbal highlights. It’s one of a number of unique and very well made wines from Rolling Bay. 53 cases; 14.6%; $39 (Snipes Mountain) 92/100