Whose Job Is It To Put The Shine Back On Wine?

Plus: Extraordinary wines from EIEIO and a delectable Valentine treat

While discussing the many woes (or challenges) facing the wine industry, one topic of particular interest to wine writers is ‘what can we (the critics) do to help?’ Setting aside the obvious self-interest in a revived wine industry, the real question is what – if anything – can the wine press contribute that might have a significant impact on selling the pleasures of wine to disinterested consumers?

My Substack friend Dave Baxter (wine and...substack.com) initiated an interesting series of wine conversations on the topic “How Do We Get More People Interested In Wine?” He opened the first post with a savvy rundown of some of the obstacles: “Wine is complicated. Good wine is expensive. Wine has a short shelf life. Wine has an image...bordering on... pretension, snootiness and intimidation”. Baxter counters these negatives with his belief that active participation (he uses a wine blending class as an example) is the key to igniting a real, long term interest in wine.

Other contributors to the discussion have talked about combining wine tasting with “experiences” – riding a horse through a vineyard, that sort of thing. There’s been some disagreement about whether blind tastings help or hurt (personally I think blind tasting is nothing more than a parlor game that some people are good at and most are not). And there is the eternal chorus insisting that we somehow “demystify” wine. Take the snobbery out of wine!

Let me pause right there. There was certainly snobbery around wine back in the day, when the trade was controlled by the Brits and Americans were almost universally ignorant about the subject. Check Google images for ‘Wine Snob’ and you’ll find dozens of photos and cartoons with someone sniffing a cork or grasping a wine glass by the stem, their uplifted chin and overactive nose conveying a holier-than-thou belief in their superior tasting ability. Yes it’s a meme, but that doesn’t make it a fact.

Any residual wine snobbery today relates not to superior knowledge but to better access to rare and often ludicrously expensive bottles. A fine example is Screaming Eagle Sauvignon Blanc, selling for $2500 a bottle if you can find it. Today’s wine snob doesn’t need to know squat about wine, just how to buy the ‘cult’ offerings.

So focusing on taking the snobbery out of wine is a red herring. Some of the other suggestions are well-intentioned, but not likely to do much to convince non-drinkers to suddenly become wine acolytes. I’ve long believed that wine behaves like any other fashionable product. Whether in popular music, haute couture, visual arts or Broadway productions, the one sure thing is that trends will come and go and styles will constantly change. Wine is no different.

For all the reasons that Baxter alludes to wine has fallen out of vogue among the very generations – Millennials and post-Millennials – that determine what is in and what is out. For the Boomers wine was fashionable precisely because it was new and ripe for discovery. I never saw a bottle of wine on the table while I was growing up. I discovered it after leaving home. And some of the first bottles that sparked my interest were the cheapest wines you could buy on a student budget.

I became interested because the flavors of wine fascinated me. Not fancy, expensive wine. Just decent off-the-shelf supermarket staples such as Mateus. My efforts to drink better wine and build a better understanding of what I was tasting were purely directed at enhancing my own enjoyment. After moving to Seattle I worked as a DJ at a number of progressive FM radio stations. I did it so I would have access to the best new music of the day, music that was not being played on AM radio. New and rule-breaking (sometimes banned) music that was not in the Billboard Top 100, that often came from unknown artists.

For me the joy of wine discovery was driven by the same self-interest, and just as personal as any compelling hobby or avocation. Why do some of my friends find rusted out hulks of old cars and spend thousands of hours rebuilding them? Because they love doing it, they love the process, and they love the challenge.

Wine will always present challenges to anyone just beginning to explore it. What’s hard about it today is that it’s become too expensive for most people to experience the best bottles, and without those experiences you can only find the quality floor, never the ceiling. Another challenge is the parent factor. If your Boomer parents were all about wine and wanted you to follow the same path, your natural instinct is to go in a completely opposite direction.

So my answer to the question posed is simple: we can all, each one of us, share our enthusiasm for the adventure of wine – an adventure and a commitment to enhancing personal pleasure. A do-it-yourself voyage of exploration into the many splendors of taste. If that is of interest, then come along and join those of us who are a few steps further down the wine trail. We welcome your company.

EIEIO

I spent all of last week tasting wines from EIEIO. This is a winery I’ve wanted to visit and have never quite made it. The wines get rave reviews. So once I finally connected with owner/winemaker Jay McDonald, and he generously sent an expansive representation of his current releases, I decided to take as much time to work through them as the wines themselves dictated. I opened three or four daily, retasted all those opened previously with the newly opened, and basically just marinaded my palate in EIEIO.

Some background: Jay McDonald bought into the town of Carlton 30 years ago, long before it turned into a mini-epicenter for great Oregon Pinot Noir. He began making wine commercially in 1996, founded EIEIO & Company two years later, and made his first independent commercial vintage in 2003. He operated out of Bergström and other leased facilities until 2015 when at last he moved into his own dedicated winery.

The connection between the winery name and the owner’s name, should you not quite get it, is further emphasized by the musical notes to “Old MacDonald Had A Farm, E-I-E-I-O” printed on the corks of many of the wines.

Another recurring image on some corks and at least one front label is a stylized 333. As 333 is and always has been my lucky number, I had to ask Jay about that, as well as a number of somewhat random topics inspired by my week of tasting.

PG: What is the significance of 333? It happens to be my lucky number!

JM: “Amazing that 333 is your lucky number! It is the perfect number in many maths, religions, philosophies and attitudes. I was lucky enough to receive Oregon Bonded Winery License Number 333 before they changed the numbering system to longer, social security-like numbers. This is a long, yet interesting story we can talk about in person.”

PG: I’m a bit embarrassed to admit this is the first time I’ve had the chance to review your wines. They don’t seem to get submitted very often to any publications. What’s your feeling about reviews and scores?

JM: “Initially I did not submit wines as I saw what most of the critics do: a cattle call of hundreds of wines tasted within such a short period of time that it does no one any service. Robert Parker asked me to submit since he had tasted my wines several times and stated that they were good. I said I would submit the wines so long as I could taste the wines alongside of his critic. This was arranged and I ended up tasting with David Schildknecht when he was at The Wine Advocate. All went well.”

PG: David is one of the finest palates I have ever encountered. I had the pleasure of hosting him and tasting with him during the brief time he was reviewing Northwest wines for Parker. Since I do not have his ability to zip through so many wines and yet give them thorough and thoughtful reviews I afford myself the luxury of doing fewer wines over much longer timespans.

JM: “Extremely glad to hear you took the time to taste through them SLOWLY as that is the only way to truly experience what the wines will do. Since my wines are alive, like most of the better wines, they should evolve with air, and at times it takes days for this to occur when the wines are so young.”

PG: I cannot recall ever spending so much time with wines from a single producer. It was a great pleasure. Here are my notes, and thank you Jay for sending the wines with so much excellent background information.

EIEIO 2022 Cuvée ‘E’ Chardonnay – Mixed fruit sources go into this wine which is designed to be “imminently drinkable’ upon release. It’s balanced, juicy and firm with citrus fruit and skins front and center, along with crisp green apple and a hint of kiwi. Drinkable for sure, but also built for medium term aging. It gains focus and power in the glass, finishing with excellent concentration and more punch than expected. Even better on the second day, and holding firm on day three. 407 cases; 12.6%; $50 (Willamette Valley) 94/100

EIEIO 2022 Cuvée ‘X’ Chardonnay – This year this cuvée was fermented in custom-made Billon cigar barrels. It’s a totally natural wine, wild yeast, no stirring, no racking, just a little SO2 addition after a long secondary fermentation. Good concentration with the emphasis on Meyer lemon and tart pineapple fruit, backed with clean, juicy acids. The new barrels do not intrude, and lend a pleasing toasty substrate without impinging on the fruit. A palate-cleansing minerality sneaks in through the finish as well. Flavors linger on... don’t give up on it. 189 cases; 12.9%; $75 (Willamette Valley) 94/100

EIEIO 2022 Yates Conwill Vineyard Chardonnay – Jay McDonald uses the black Chardonnay (pre-oxidizing) technique to good effect here. It seems to soften the wine just a bit, and spread out the flavors across a broad, smooth palate. Flashes of butter, citrus, apple pie and white peach combine and plow ahead in a trim, well-framed palate. Baking spice highlights adorn the finish. This is bigger and fuller than its under 13% abv would suggest, and just as tasty after being open for 24 hours. 89 cases; 12.8%; $75 (Yamhill Carlton) 95/100

EIEIO 2022 White Pinot Noir – A pale straw, wonderfully aromatic and mouth-coating, this is an especially good take on white Pinot Noir. It may have spent some time in neutral oak, which has lent a softly toasty accent to the body of the wine. Plush flavors of tropical fruits, melon, banana, papaya and more are seamlessly blended. It turns spicy through a lingering finish. I’d suspect it’s going to be at its best over the next few years. 50 cases; 13.4%; $50 (Yamhill Carlton) 94/100

EIEIO 2022 Rosé – Stylish and focused, this lively Pinot Noir rosé brings peppery strawberry fruit backed with pretty, lemony acids. Just a touch of tannin firms up the finish, keeping everything in proportion. With ample breathing it expands beautifully, adding complex details of rose petals, orange peel and Asian spice through a lingering finish. 45 cases; 12.9%; $40 (Yamhill Carlton) 93/100

EIEIO 2022 Yates Conwill Vineyard Art Label Pinot Noir – This is a field blend of own-rooted Wadenswil, own-rooted Pommard and grafted 777 clone vines. On the front label are the three vineyard blocks used. At the risk of sounding foolish I’ll call this a blocky wine, meaning the flavors come in discrete chunks of fruit, acid, rock and tannin. Raspberry and cherry, juicy orange, chalk and earth, all in proportion and nicely balanced, with a spicy close. 90 cases; 12.5%; $75 (Yamhill Carlton) 93/100

EIEIO 2022 Yates Conwill Vineyard Wadenswil Pinot Noir – Years ago I never imagined that an Oregon Pinot Noir barely topping 12% abv with no discernable residual sugar could possibly taste this good. This is a style that does full justice to the ephemeral, translucent nature of the grape without short-changing depth and detail. The pretty strawberry and raspberry fruit is amply ripe, showing gentle touches of clean earth and damp forest. The acids are present but not overbearing. In short, this is a thoroughly excellent and low impact wine with plenty of aging potential. 45 cases; 12.1%; $75 (Willamette Valley) 94/100

EIEIO 2022 Yates Conwill Vineyard Pommard Pinot Noir – This is a clone that bursts open aromatically and leads with fruit, forward and juicy and delicious. Here it’s showing a mix of citrus and berry, tart and tasty, wrapped in a delicate phenolic frame. EIEIO winemaker Jay McDonald notes that this is the first time he’s done three different bottlings from this acclaimed vineyard; it’s clear upon tasting that they are well differentiated in style as well as ripeness. This finishes firm and framed with dried Italian herbs. 45 cases; 13%; $75 (Willamette Valley) 95/100

EIEIO 2022 Saffron Fields Vineyard Art Label Pinot Noir – A multi-clone field blend (the label depicts the specific blocks sourced), this dazzles with its complexity and highlights of spice and barrel. The vineyard name conjures up thoughts of saffron (duh) and I confess I can taste saffron amongst the spices. Brambly blackberry, blueberry and marionberry flavors line up through the mid-palate, with a swirl of citrus, notably lemon peel. Full-bodied and relatively ripe for this portfolio, the flavors hold focus through a lasting finish dappled with toasty barrel (33% new) highlights. 90 cases; 13.5%; $75 (Yamhill Carlton) 94/100

EIEIO 2022 Saffron Fields Vineyard Whole Cluster Pinot Noir – This is 100% whole cluster fermentation with full body pigeage (“good dirty fun” says McDonald). Single clone, two thirds new barrels, and masterfully managed. Sometimes whole cluster wines can become lean and herbal to the detriment of the fruit; not so here. Lively raspberry and cherry fruit shines brightly at the core, with a still rough phenolic/savory frame that will want decanting and/or bottle age to smooth out. This is a bigger style of Pinot, well-proportioned and complex, with a trail of highlights as it fades out. 45 cases; 13.9%; $75 (Willamette Valley) 95/100

EIEIO 2022 Cuvée E Pinot Noir – E stands for Every vineyard in the portfolio, blended together to showcase the vintage. It’s also meant to be a wine to drink Early. Aged in neutral French oak, still tight, earthy, hard raspberry candy and a touch of wintergreen some might find a bit medicinal. Pungent for sure, but nice clean fruit and defining acids keep it fresh and flavorful on through the second day. 600 cases; 13.3%; $50 (Willamette Valley) 92/100

EIEIO 2022 Cuvée I Pinot Noir – A blend made, says McDonald, to match his personal tastes; rarely produced, it aims for aromatic complexity and textural focus (“flavors being the least of my concerns”). A mix of grapes from all his vineyard sources, aged in one quarter new French oak, it’s got wonderful texture, balance and complexity. Taste is a combination of all of the above, and here there’s plenty of flavor, though less forward fruit. Well balanced mix of pomegranate, savory herbs, citrus and bramble – all here in abundance. 140 cases; 13.3%; $75 (Willamette Valley) 93/100

EIEIO 2022 Cuvée O Pinot Noir – The top level wine, all Pommard clone, aged in two thirds new French oak. There’s a powerful core loaded with blackberry fruit, highlighted with notes of dark chocolate, and finishing with lingering streaks of tobacco. The overall balance and compressed power affirms its long term aging potential. For near term drinking, decant this aggressively. Making Pinot Noir this complex and aromatic at such modest finished alcohol is a testament to fine work in the vineyard. 50 cases; 12.9%; $125 (Willamette Valley) 97/100

EIEIO 2022 Wind Hill Vineyard Pinot Noir – All whole cluster fermentation in 100% new oak. Like the comparable Saffron Fields whole cluster bottling this focuses on fresh, clean raspberry and cherry fruit with a hard candy character. The flavors almost seem to vibrate with vivid freshness and pixel-sharp detail. It gathers concentration mid-palate, adding layers of orange peel, citrus, sweet pineapple, milk chocolate and mocha. 90 cases; 13.2%; $75 (Willamette Valley) 95/100

EIEIO 2022 White Cloud Vineyard Pinot Noir – Concentrated black fruits with sappy acids give this a powerful push right off the bat. It’s packed with flavors of blackberry and black cherry fruit, balsamic crema and dark chocolate, though all neutral oak was used. It’s layered and compact, you can peel off slices of brambly berries, chocolate cherries, espresso and truffle as it sails down through the long finish. 90 cases; 13.8%; $75 (Willamette Valley) 96/100

EIEIO 2022 333 Pinot Noir – A wine built for duck in a cherry sauce with a squeeze of orange. This sinewy wine has veins of soy and chocolate around deep cherry fruit. A touch of tobacco, espresso and tar give it an umami highlight backed with supporting acids. So many of these EIEIO 2022s show better after 24 hours, this one especially. The cherry fruit just bursts out of the glass. Yes, the tannins need a little time to soften up, but all the pieces are in place for a long life. 43 cases; 13.2%; $125 (Willamette Valley) 96/100

Valentine’s Day is just two weeks away and I’m a sucker for love. But the standard red wine and chocolate pairing, a staple for countless wine columns over the decades, is not for me. In fact it’s inspired too many rants to remember. So whether or not I revisit my annual rant in a couple of weeks, here’s a wonderful V-day treat that will accompany a wide variety of wines (yes even Cabernet) or cocktails or mocktails or whatever may be your pleasure.

The full-sized Olivieri 1882’s panettone has made my holiday gift list the past couple of years for good reason. It’s flat out delicious. Expensive yes, but holidays are for splurging. And now you can splurge on their special Valentine’s Day heart-shaped panettone.

The San Valentino Panettone ($65) comes in special packaging with a love letter option. It arrives fresh to your door in 48 hours, made with vanilla bean, Italian wheat flours, raw cane sugar, and acacia honey. Generously studded with dark chocolate chunks and candied strawberries. Great for breakfast, perfect for dessert or a late night fare-thee-well. Order it here. Your partner will thank you.