Top Wines for 1/21/23
Here are my three picks for best of the week and a preview of the 'Deep Dive'
As I lay awake one recent night thinking about this week's feature it occurred to me that Riesling is the Jarred Kelenic of wine grapes. Kelenic is an outfielder for the Seattle Mariners. He was once considered the best prospect in a farm system loaded with them. A so-called "five tool" player whose future seemed guaranteed. As with Kelenic, Riesling has often been touted as a five tool grape. But both have run into major difficulties. I’m not sure about Kelenic, but can Riesling be redeemed? Follow this thread on www.paulgwine.com
Wine of Week
Trisaetum 2021 Ribbon Ridge Estate Riesling
As with the dry bottling of the Ribbon Ridge, this is replete with hints and notes of ginger, stone, almond butter and more. The residual sugar lowers the alcohol and ups the roundness across the palate. The tree fruits are emphasized, a mix of ripe citrus, peach and apricot. What is most impressive is that the acids keep everything tight and focused on through a long finish. Drink now and over the next 10-15 years. 206 cases; 11.1%; $35 (Ribbon Ridge) 95/100
https://www.trisaetum.com/product/2021-Ribbon-Ridge-Estate-Riesling
Outstanding Value
Love & Squalor 2018 Dry Riesling
If you like your Riesling bone dry and sappy with lip-smacking juiciness look no further than this new release from Matt Berson at Portland Wine Company. Grapefruit, Meyer lemon, tangerine and more are in the mix. The tension is electric, the definition and focus are pinpoint and spot on. There is nothing missing here for this particular style. 270 cases; 12%; $20 (Willamette Valley) 96/100
https://www.portlandwinecompany.com/buywine/2018-riesling-wv
For the Cellar
Soter 2015 Mineral Springs Blanc de Noirs
This is the first Blanc de Noirs from Soter and it's a beauty. A lovely straw hue, with tiny bead and effusive nose, this bottle commemorates the late Michelle Soter. Pure, elegant and expressive, it gathers itself in a concentrated palate replete with passion fruit, ginger, currant and raspberry, finishing with a creamy hint of chocolate. Tasted several times over many days, it held together and lost not a bit of complexity. Drink now and over the next 20 years. 160 cases; 12.8%; $100 (Yamhill-Carlton) 95/100
https://purchase.sotervineyards.com/product/2015-Mineral-Springs-Blanc-de-Noirs
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