Thoughts On A ‘Sober Curious’ Lifestyle

Plus - News from Stoller, new wines from Cowin Family, Echolands and Sleight of Hand

This quote from a story on NBC caught my attention recently. “No-alcohol beer has gained popularity as more consumers cut back on their alcohol consumption, prompting brewers to invest in zero-proof alternatives. The trend is particularly striking across younger age cohorts; Gen Z drinks less than prior generations at the same age, and millennials hold the largest share of no-alcohol drinkers, according to IWSR. Younger drinkers use buzzwords like "sober curious" and "damp lifestyle" to describe moderating their alcoholic intake, rather than abstaining entirely.”

Buzzwords being somewhat amorphous, I thought it worthwhile to look more closely at what a “sober curious” lifestyle might resemble. Starting with my own life, where all the best empirical evidence may be found.

My drinking habits have evolved, slowly but consistently, over many decades. While in my 20s I had only a passing interest in wine and virtually no exposure to liquors or liqueurs. I set out to study wine in my early 30s, during a time when I was the producer of a struggling morning television program on the ABC affiliate in Seattle. A recurring guest on the program was the late Tom Stockley, who wrote a popular weekly wine column in the Seattle Times. Perhaps while chatting with Tom – I don’t exactly recall – I stumbled upon the fact that there were trade tastings, luncheons and dinners, even hosted ‘fam tours’ available to him as a wine writer. My aha moment – what better way to learn about wine!?

Writing was a skill I already had, having switched to tv work after covering pop culture (music and theater primarily) for a weekly newspaper. So I tapped those old connections with a pitch for some stories about the business side of wine, thinking (correctly) that a published article or two would establish enough credibility to gain access to trade events. It did, and one opportunity led to another, and within a year I found myself on a three week trip to Spain with an assignment to cover a couple of high profile wineries for the Wine Spectator. After drinking my way across Spain I headed to the Rhône, and Burgundy and when back home to California and Oregon and the wilds of eastern Washington.

Quite the opposite of sober curious, I was alcohol adventurous, blissfully unconcerned with the notion of too much drinking, negative health impacts, etc. etc. as long as someone else was doing the driving. Little did I realize that by current standards I was already in a doom cycle of wine-fueled dependence.

As I gained more and more wine-related experience and knowledge, fueled by a steady flow of freelance writing assignments, I branched out into focused exploration of specific alcoholic beverages that caught my attention – grappa for a time, then single malt scotch, then amaro and so on. Wine and spirits were for me winding trails to be explored, and as it happened a welcome buffer to my full-time employment and a challenging personal life. Viewed through the lens of today’s anti-alcohol harridans I guess I could be castigated as a functioning alcoholic, though I would disagree. I was functioning at a very high level, and made it a strict personal goal never to wake up with a hangover.

Wine writing for me was never expected or intended to be career-defining. It was (and still is) a lifestyle choice, not a planned career. For all the pleasures that wine brings – its history, science, value as a social emollient, its impact on politics, artistry and community-building capabilities – I am its grateful advocate.

Over the past decade I’ve given up spirits and rarely have even fortified wine, as my ability to eat and drink whatever/whenever without consequences has declined. In order to maintain a regular wine tasting schedule I’ve become a world-class expectorator, and stopped attending massive trade tastings. My newly ‘dampened’ lifestyle has me spitting rather than drinking even the wines I pull from the cellar to share with friends or enjoy at dinner. And that’s ok – I never feel that I’m missing out on the pleasure. Non-alcoholic options are of little interest with the exception of beer, where the missing alcohol has little impact on either mouthfeel or flavor.

So gradually over decades I’ve slid into my own version of semi-sober curious, keeping what’s important, eliminating what won’t be missed, and staying focused on the sort of wines and wineries that gain my endorsement here. If younger generations are moving more quickly into ‘sober curious’ behavior, I wish them well. I only hope that they ultimately come to find pleasure in moderate, thoughtful wine consumption as I have.

Breaking News – Just this morning the Stoller Group announced that they have acquired the Elouan brand from Copper Cane. Stoller Communications Specialist Hannah Guth confirmed in a phone call that there are no set plans (yet) for the existing inventory. But two things are certain: this moves the entire Stoller Group up the ladder in terms of national exposure for all their brands; and it bodes well for the future of Elouan, whose Chardonnays and Pinots have never risen above the mundane.

Cowin Family

Bradford Cowin’s Adega Northwest wines have been reviewed in the past, but in a recent correspondence he noted a new project – a family label started in 2019 making an unusual selection of wines. At about the same time he purchased a small vineyard in Priorat and began making wines there. I asked him to share some thoughts on managing projects from so many different areas. Here is his response (edited for length).

BC: “I started Adega Northwest in 2014 with the idea of making wines that were more European inspired, being less ripe/fruit forward, a bit lower in alcohol, with less new oak. I was looking for structured, elegant wines instead of powerful ones. I also wanted every wine to have its own identity and showcase the variety, and the region/vineyard. This is why the Adega Northwest brand concentrates on single vineyard/single varietal wines from vineyards in Oregon and Washington.”

PG: What moved the needle?

BC: “By 2020 I wanted to branch out and create a project that was a bit different. The idea was to concentrate on blends instead of single varietal wines – the Ribera Reserva to emulate the wines from Ribera del Duero, the French Creek Syrah to emulate a Côte Rôtie, the Left Bank Reserve to emulate a Bordeaux.”

PG: You also made an excellent Weinbau Block 10 Cabernet at about that time.

BC: “Yes, we merged the two projects together as Cowin Family wines. It took longer than expected to get licensed, design our label, and even decide on the winery name. So the first vintage is being released a year later than we would have liked, but that has benefited the wines quite a bit allowing them to evolve more.”

PG: And as if you didn’t already have your hands full, you’ve begun yet another project in Priorat!

BC: “I've always been drawn to Spain and Portugal and had been looking to start something there. In 2021 I happened on the right opportunity in Priorat – an old winery in the town of La Vilella Alta that included a small vineyard. We also purchased another small vineyard in the neighboring area of Torroja. Four total hectares between the two are planted with Cariñena, Garnacha, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Syrah. The vines age range from 24 years old to 85 years old.”

“Managing all the projects is a bit challenging. I usually fly back and forth once every month and a half. I have custom crush clients in Oregon that look after my winery facility (not my own wines) so that helps. In Priorat I work in the winery solo as well but I do employ people in the vineyard for different tasks. Needless to say, I have my hands full.”

PG: I’ll never complain about my workload again! Thank you Bradford for this fascinating background.

Cowin Family 2021 Pinot Noir – Soft and pretty, punctuated with scents of fresh thyme, moving into secondary fruit flavors of berry and melon. This is smooth and silky, with floral highlights, and it drinks beautifully as soon as the cork comes out. May or may not improve further, but why wait? 100 cases; 14.1%; $65 (Chehalem Mountains) 92/100

Cowin Family 2020 French Creek Vineyard Syrah – Aged in puncheons and concrete, this has immediate intensity in nose and mid-palate. Compact berry and minty black cherry fruit is set against graphite, iron filings, cold coffee and cut tobacco. It hangs in the mid-palate a long time, even when you’re expecting it to move to a finish. This has the approachable, drink-now readiness of all the Cowin 2020 reds. 55 cases; 14.4%; $60 (Columbia Valley) 92/100

Cowin Family 2020 Ribera Reserva – Principally Tempranillo with Cabernet, Malbec and maybe Merlot (listed on the label, but not on the tech sheet) filling out the blend. All of these 2020s are the current releases from the winery. This has a deep blood red color, a toasty aroma, black fruits and suggestions roasted meats accenting silky tannins. The fine balance throughout leads into finishing details of graphite, coffee grounds and tobacco. This excellent wine is moving into a prime drinking window and should be enjoyed over the next few years. 100 cases; 14.6%; $65 (Columbia Valley) 93/100

Cowin Family 2020 Left Bank Reserve Red Blend – This interpretation of ‘Left Bank’ pushes the Malbec all the way to 35%, along with 20% Merlot and 45% Cabernet Sauvignon. I can’t imagine anyone not grinning broadly when handed a glass of this wine – it’s dense, layered and delicious, with a full mid-palate built upon black cherry, cassis, licorice and espresso flavors. The richness builds across and down the palate, with a throat-soaking texture that amplifies everything. Lightly grainy tannins fill out the finish. 100 cases; 14.3%; $65 (Columbia Valley) 93/100

Cowin Family 2020 Weinbau Vineyard Block 10 Cabernet Sauvignon – This is presumably 100% old vine Cabernet - at least it comes across as such. A classic take on Washington Cabernet – dense, powerful and deep, with ripe and powerful tannins that are nonetheless structured and power the wine through a rich, chewy finish. Cassis, black cherry, graphite, black tea, tobacco… the flavors pile on and linger seemingly indefinitely. Some 60% of the barrels were new, adding a toasty frame around the delicious fruit. This fine effort highlights a group of irresistibly delicious first releases from Cowin Family. 100 cases; 14.5%; $65 (Wahluke Slope) 95/100

Echolands

In the summer of 2023 the talented Brian Rudin (ex-Canvasback) was brought in by co-owner Doug Frost to help design the new winery and manage vineyard development while also taking over the winemaking. Brian finished the 2022 Echolands wines and made the 2023 and 2024 wines start to finish. In a tasting together last month he talked about the transition and the process of developing a solid working relationship with Frost, who holds both the Master Sommelier and Master of Wine degrees, a feat almost unmatched in the world.

Suffice it to say that these are the early days for Echolands, and the estate vineyard (decimated by the January 2024 freeze) is still in development. The 2024 white wines (mostly from purchased grapes) provide the best measure of Rudin’s impact.

Echolands 2024 Angiolina Vineyard Albus White – Three fifths of this 82% Sauvignon Blanc/18% Semillon blend was fermented in concrete egg and the rest in barrels. Lovely aromatics are highlights here, leading into a burst of spicy citrus limned with hints of pine needle. The flavors smooth out into a supple mid-palate that extends the pleasure well into a lingering finish. 288 cases; 13.3%; $38 (Yakima Valley) 93/100

Echolands 2024 Taggart Estate Vineyard Lower Dry Creek Block Sauvignon Blanc – Crisp and concentrated, this is Sauv Blanc designed to show off lots of skin flavors, citrus and fresh herbs. It’s savory rather than pungent, nicely balanced with a chalky character underscoring it. It’s due out in early summer as part of a three-pack Single Block Series offered along with the Seven Hills Cabernet Sauvignon and one other single block selection. 254 cases; 13.4%; $48 (Walla Walla Valley) 92/100

Echolands 2024 McKinley Springs Vineyard Grenache Rosé – Bright copper/gold and scented with dusty spices. Firm, concentrated mid-palate flavors of tangerine, pink grapefruit and a dash of cinnamon. 440 cases; 13%; $28 (Horse Heaven Hills) 91/100

Echolands 2024 Taggart Estate Vineyard Rosé of Cabernet Franc – Fermented in neutral barrels, this light take on rosé punches through with sassy acids and citrus highlights. A gentle, quaffable style of rosé. 239 cases; 12.5%; $32 (Walla Walla Valley) 90/100

Echolands 2024 Semi-Carbonic Cinsault – This surefire crowd-pleaser was constructed by fermenting half as whole-cluster carbonic maceration and half in open top stainless bins prior to blending. Hard to imagine a more perfect springtime red – light, aromatic and spicy with lightly candied fruit flavors of strawberries and cherries. It dips deeper into the palate than expected, with accents of bergamot tea. Cinsault is light in color and low in tannin and acid, which further emphasizes the ebullient fruit. This unpretentious, delicious, floral and fruity light red wine makes a perfect transition between rosés and bigger barbeque-friendly reds. 226 cases; 13.4%; $44 (Walla Walla Valley) 92/100

Echolands 2022 Seven Hills Vineyard Merlot – This is all Seven Hills fruit, with 15% Cabernet filling out the blend. Sourced from 20-year-old vines, the wine shows medium grip and structure, with dark fruits accented by a weave of wild herbs, thistle and tobacco leaf. The grapes and the vineyard are showcased here, with just one new barrel (out of six). Founding partner Doug Frost and winemaker Brian Rudin lean into a Euro-influenced style, which matches well to the high acid intensity of Washington grapes. 140 cases; 14.4%; $62 (Walla Walla Valley) 93/100

Echolands 2022 Seven Hills Vineyard Block 03 Cabernet Sauvignon – One third of the upcoming Block Series offering, this is an all-clone 6 Cabernet selection blended with 9% Merlot and 2% each Cab Franc and Petit Verdot. Set on the savory side of the grape, it flattens out a bit in the mid-palate before sailing into a medium-long finish. 148 cases; 14.7%; $90 (Walla Walla Valley) 91/100

Echolands 2022 Groundswell Taggart Estate Vineyard Red – This is the first wine from Taggart estate vineyard, a Right Bank-ish blend of 64% Cabernet Franc, 24% Merlot and 12% Cabernet Sauvignon. It’s a fine introduction to this promising young estate vineyard, with well-modulated flavors of strawberry jam, graphite and tea-touched tannins. Light hints of lemon pepper dot the trailing finish. 184 cases; 14.1%; $38 (Walla Walla Valley) 92/100

Echolands 2022 Les Collines Vineyard Block 50 Syrah – Lightly candied raspberry fruit annotated with rose water, clove and citrus. A delicate wine, but flavorful and balanced. The finish is detailed and lingers gracefully. 131 cases; 12.8%; $65 (Walla Walla Valley) 90/100

Sleight of Hand

A tasting with Trey and Holly Busch (happy 4th anniversary today!) provided me with the chance to explore Sleight of Hand wines for the first time in many years. Quality across the board is impressive, and the limited reserve wines are exceptional. Also not to be missed are the Syrahs, which must be included among the finest that the Rocks District and North Fork regions can produce.

Sleight of Hand 2023 The Enchantress Chardonnay – Sourced from 45-year-old Wente clone vines at French Creek vineyard, this has lovely texture and a smooth mouthfeel. Full malolactic fermentation and sur lies aging, along with the judicious use (just 12% new) of oak keeps it focused without sacrificing top notes. Abundant and ripe orchard fruit flavors carry the weight through the finish. 366 cases; 13.4%; $35 (Yakima Valley) 92/100

Sleight of Hand 2022 The Archimage Reserve Red – This is 55% Cab Franc and 45% Merlot, sourced from estate-controlled blocks at both Blue Mountain and Red Mountain vineyards. A fine take on a Washington-inflected Right Bank style, this has surpassing elegance and restrained power. Blue and black fruits are here in abundance, nicely accented with savory herbs that never turn weedy or bitter. “The goal is to get out of the way and get a more honest representation of the vintage and the variety” notes Busch. A success on all counts, with a decade+ of aging potential. 14.7%; $65 (Columbia Valley) 94/100

Sleight of Hand 2022 The Illusionist Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon – Estate-managed blocks in the Horse Heaven Hills AVA, Red Mountain AVA, and Walla Walla AVA make up the majority of the final blend of 85% Cabernet Sauvignon and 15% Cab Franc. The wine was aged for 20 months in 60% new French oak. It’s built to age but immediately drinkable, powered with dense black fruits above a wash of espresso, iron filings, graphite and char. The tannins are ripe and grippy, with more of that pencil lead character. A well-managed balancing act between the ripe berry fruit and the imposing tannins. 840 cases; 14.6%; $65 (Columbia Valley) 94/100

Sleight of Hand 2022 The Sorceress Reserve Grenache – WeatherEye, Upland and French Creek vineyards supplied the fruit for this outstanding, pure varietal Grenache. It’s packed with black fruits and accents of dark chocolate, coffee grounds, black tea and licorice. Dense and detailed, potent and pleasurable, this radiates character and quality from the first sip to the last lingering drop. The ascendance of Grenache in Washington state (when grown at the right vineyards) has been a wonder to behold. This is a great wine and a shining example of what Grenache can be here. 14.9%; $65 (Yakima Valley) 98/100

Sleight of Hand 2022 Levitation Reserve Syrah – Grapes from Lewis and Les Collines are on display here, high elevation sites that put an emphasis on clarity, crisp detail, and clean varietal fruit set against savory herbs and sassy citrus. The bright berry fruit is limned with orange peel and other citrus highlights that carry into a tight, sharp finish. This will want decanting and/or further bottle age to unpack all the details. If you favor the savory, earthy, northern Rhône style of Syrah, choose this one. 14.6%; $65 (Columbia Valley) 95/100

Sleight of Hand 2022 Stoney Vine Estate Vineyard Psychedelic Syrah – These are Rocks District grapes from the estate’s (shared with Dusted Valley) Stoney Vine vineyard. It’s mostly foot crushed, put through native yeast fermentation, and aged on the lees in 10% new French oak for 16 months. It hits the magic spot with forward flavors of tart blackberries married to Rocks District funk, accented with savory herbs and buttressed with sappy acids. The blend is balanced and seamless, extending the finish long enough to keep bringing up further, hidden details. 500 cases; 13.3%; $75 (Walla Walla Valley) 96/100

Sleight of Hand 2021 Spiders From Mars Syrah – Sourced from the North Fork ‘Elevation Vineyard’ (planted originally for John Meuret) this ‘Ziggy Stardust Block’ fruit may be thought of as “the birthplace of The Rocks” notes Trey Busch. This is foot crushed and fermented 100% whole cluster with stems. The remote, steep vineyard is completely tended manually except for spraying done by drone (hello 21st century viticulture!). It’s loaded with potpourri – layer upon layer of herbs and flowers and wild, brambly fruits, all subtly woven around the tight mountain berry fruit. The finish, even on the second and third days tasting an open, unpreserved bottle, delivers microscopic details and amazing length. 13.2% (Walla Walla Valley) 97/100

Sleight of Hand 2022 Spiders From Mars Syrah – “Mountain terroir etched in stone” reads the label, and I couldn’t write a better description. In fact, at the risk of being called a slacker, I’ll quote the rest. “Vibrant, potpourri, red licorice, Asian spices, floral, green olives, green peppercorn, mountain huckleberries, pomegranate, fresh citrus…” Yes, yes and yes. To which I will also add praise for the textured finish, the cured meats, the coffee grounds, the density and length and… well, you get a sense of this exceptional wine. Best drinking late 2020s through 2030s. 100 cases; 14.2% (Walla Walla Valley) 96/100

From The Cellar

Sometimes I just want a bottle to go with dinner, and pull out whatever might fit. But other times I want to make a comparison to a newer vintage, or check on a change in winemakers. That was the case with this week’s ‘From The Cellar’ wine.

You’ve probably heard that the new owners of the Duckhorn portfolio are closing the Canvasback winery and brand. This hits especially hard here in Walla Walla, where the wines were well-respected and the winery seemed to be on a path to growth, with estate vineyards in development and a smooth winemaker transition two years ago.

Ironically, a submission of Canvasback wines arrived the day after the announcement came out. These were 2022 wines, which were started by former winemaker Brian Rudin and finished by his successor Joe Czarny. And whether it was a timing issue with the transition, which occurred mid-summer of 2023, or some other unknown factor, there was a noticeable shift across the entire portfolio. So I went to the cellar to find something from an earlier vintage that might show me if there really was a difference, or if my palate was fooling me that day.

I came out with a bottle of Canvasback 2018 Ciel du Cheval Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon. Right upon opening, with no chance to warm up or breathe, the wine showed excellent focus, precision and balance. The long, persistent finish probed deeply into dark fruits and accents of espresso, graphite, cinnamon and licorice. The tannins were ripe, polished and contained. Two minutes after I pulled the cork! Tasted again after being open for 24 hours, it remained aromatic and open, with more nuanced flavors of baking spices, espresso and baking chocolate. I rated it 95-96/100.

Note to wineries – a short heat spike has passed here in eastern Washington and a shipping window for sending wine safely has re-opened. If you have new releases you’d like me to evaluate, please text or email paulgwine@me.com for specific instructions.