The Best Northwest Wines of the Year (So Far…)

Plus thoughts on those rare 100 point wines

There’s been a lot of media buzz generated by a recent review of a very good Washington wine, seemingly because a reviewer for an influential wine blog awarded it 100 points. Why this was celebrated as some groundbreaking achievement baffled me. It was not the first 100 point Washington wine, not even close. Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate (back when it was actually written by Robert Parker) gave Quilceda Creek 100 points on more than one occasion. My first 100 point score was awarded to another Washington wine – the 2006 Royal City Syrah – in a review published in Wine Enthusiast magazine in the summer of 2009.

The most recent Washington 100 pointer was gifted by a reviewer with a lengthy history writing about Napa Valley wines, but with little or no experience tasting wines from Washington. So it’s curious that out of nowhere came this perfect score. Where’s the history, the context, the experience to place that particular wine in such rarified company?

I’ve reviewed and scored tens of thousands of Northwest wines over the years. In the past 20 years I’ve given out just a half dozen perfect scores – two to Cayuse, one to Hors Catégorie, one to Patricia Green Cellars, one to the Eyrie Vineyards and one to Charles Smith. Why just one to Washington and five to Oregon? Am I somehow biassed against my home state?

Not at all. The fact is that for more than a decade I was banned from reviewing all Washington wines by my two major employers – the Seattle Times and Wine Enthusiast magazine. Although I’d just published two editions of what remains the most comprehensive book about Washington wines and wineries ever written, they ran for cover when I alerted them to my involvement in the establishment of Waitsburg Cellars. Waitsburg Cellars quickly came and went, along with most of my income. The Seattle Times has never again found anyone to cover what is among this state’s most important industries. Apart from wine, is there another industry that can bind together agriculture, tourism, marketing and retail in a unique and powerful way? None that I can think of.

How many Washington 100 point wines might I have written up during that lost decade? I couldn’t begin to guess. But it’s not unreasonable to suspect that given equal tasting opportunities, I’d have awarded an equal number perfect scores in the two states.

100 point wines are few and far between, even with score inflation, so my current focus is on finding and profiling the best wines from mostly small, family-owned wineries. Once a year or so it’s worth looking back at the best of the best. Rather than wait for the holiday season tsunami of Top 100 lists, I’m going ahead and compiling the wines that have made an indelible impression from my tastings over the past 10 months.

Inevitably some worthy wineries are left out because they have not been reviewed during that time. And some of these wines are sold out. But the point of this exercise is not to showboat all the great wines I’ve had that you can’t find. Rather that the follow-up vintage will be close enough in quality to merit your attention. Any winery that produces really exceptional wines is worth following.

To make this list manageable it’s broken down into categories by variety or blend. To save space I’ve condensed but not changed the reviews. Each winery gets just one entry, although many could have placed a several more wines on the list. The goal is to give you valuable guidance that can help you discover some great new producers and plan your next visit to wine country.

Sparkling

Arabilis 2021 Willamette Valley Brut Nature

This is two thirds Pinot Noir, one third Chardonnay, with no dosage (hence Brut Nature). The base wine fruit is so good that dosage clearly wasn’t needed; the flavors are brimming with succulent citrus, apple, peach and pear, underscored with tantalizing touches of toasted hazelnuts. A dense and flinty minerality comes up in the long, satisfying finish. A terrific bottle all the way through. $75 (Willamette Valley) 95/100

Argyle 2014 Extended Tirage Brut

A blend of 65% Pinot Noir, 30% Chardonnay and 5% Pinot Meunier, it aims for a Champagne-type complexity, and nails it. A fine bead amps up the mouthfeel, and fermentation in some oak, though neutral, seems to add hints of toast. There are subtle notes of metal, rock and spice scattered throughout, making for a deep, penetrating and compelling drink. $85 (Willamette Valley) 96/100

Corollary 2020 X-Omni Vineyard Blanc de Blancs

This impresses with complex aromas, a stacked palate and a long finish. Citrus is on full display, and fermentation in neutral oak puts a spare hint of toast framing it. Just under half went through malolactic, cutting out any harsh acidity but leaving plenty of tang to amplify a mineral-drenched foundation. Tasted side-by-side with a comparably-priced Champagne this wine could certainly hold its own, albeit with more fruit power and a little less refinement. $80 (Eola-Amity Hills) 95/100

Chardonnay

00 Wines 2022 Seven Springs Chardonnay

Full-bodied, mouth-coating and complex, this invites you to unpeel layers of citrus fruits, caramel apples, bee pollen, almond butter and toasted hazelnuts as it rolls across and down the palate. Luscious and broad, detailed and deep, this beautifully expresses the magic of the vineyard and the AVA, which has become the epicenter for world-class Oregon Chardonnay. (Eola-Amity Hills) 98/100

EIEIO 2022 Yates Conwill Vineyard Chardonnay

Winemaker Jay McDonald uses the black Chardonnay (pre-oxidizing) technique to good effect here. Flashes of butter, citrus, apple pie and white peach combine and plow ahead in a trim, well-framed palate. Baking spice highlights adorn the finish. $75 (Yamhill Carlton) 95/100

Résonance 2022 Les Coteaux Chardonnay

Sourced from the hillsides of two estate vineyards – Découverte and Joli Monts. It’s full-bodied and rich, with concentrated citrus flesh and citrus oil, apple and Asian pear, along with a clear impression of gooseberry. Startlingly vivid on entry, it softens up through the finish with a buttery mouthfeel. Long, luscious, spicy and generous, a terrific Chardonnay. $48 (Willamette Valley) 96/100

Shea 2023 Estate Chardonnay

Layer upon layer of polished fruit and barrel flavors. Smooth from start to finish, loaded with butterscotch candy goodness, and anchored in perfectly-ripened citrus and stone fruits. Many Oregon Chardonnays are very good; only a handful have the ‘it’ factor on display here. If this had a famous California name attached to it you’d pay a whole lot more. $40 (Yamhill-Carlton) 96/100

Soter 2022 Estates Chardonnay

A succulent wine, sappy and strikingly deep, this puts the emphasis on texture as well as juicy flavors. Citrus and apple are prominent, underpinned with wet stone minerality. It was barrel-fermented and aged in about a third of new French oak, followed by six months in stainless. The toasted hazelnut framing from the new oak is polished and restrained, leaving an impression of elegance as the wine trails out. $60 (Willamette Valley) 95/100

Tenor 2022 La Reyna Blanca Vineyard Chardonnay

This ripe, rich, satiny Chardonnay is a true palate-soaker, dense with tropical fruits and barrel flavors of buttered, toasted nuts, caramel and cream. Reliable Washington state acids keep the palate lively and fresh. $95 (Columbia Valley) 97/100

Walter Scott 2023 Hyland Vineyard Chardonnay

This iconic vineyard dates from 1971, and this wine uses fruit from a single block planted in 1979. As with old vine reds, the thing to look for here is texture. The flavors weave together as more of a tapestry than an painting, more three dimensional than two dimensional. Threads of citrus zest and flower, lemon verbena and lemon squares, crisp apple with a hint of cinnamon roll across and down through the palate, lighting it up along the way, never fading nor turning simple. $80 (McMinnville) 98/100

X Novo 2021 X Omni Vineyard Chardonnay

This is a sexy, sultry wine, mouth-coating and viscous. The rich, exuberant palate is loaded with apricot and peach, pear and papaya, caramel and toasted hazelnuts. Half the barrels were new, half neutral. The acids keep the finish lively and refreshed. This is a spectacular effort from start to finish, with aging potential over the moon. $100 (Eola-Amity Hills) 97/100

Riesling

Lemelson 2024 Meyer Vineyard Dry Riesling

Certain dry Rieslings hit a bullseye balance between fruit and acid, and this is one. Aromatic with lemon blossoms and pulp, glassy on the palate with a nice mix of barrel-fermented and stainless-fermented components. A rich, vibrant, bright and polished Riesling, dry but deliciously fruity with palate-cleansing tartness. Mineral flavors abound, and the juicy, textured mouthfeel continues on through the crisp, clean and racy finish. $38 (Dundee Hills) 94/100

Love & Squalor 2021 Dry Riesling

If you like your Riesling bone dry with lip-smacking, lemony juiciness here’s your bottle. Beyond the lemon you’ll find grapefruit, tangerine, a squeeze of lime… you get the picture. Dry Rieslings can be so dry the fruit feels desiccated; not here. This wine is bursting wide open with fruit, which carries the flavors bright and bold through a lingering finish.

$21 (Willamette Valley) 95/100

Royer 2022 Estate Riesling

This wine’s strength is its finish, which sneaks up on you through the palate’s back door. Intended to emulate an Alsatian style, it gathers strength and focus and depth, with deep, juicy citrus fruit expanding gorgeously as it breathes. Texture, detail and depth – this wine has it all. $38 (Eola-Amity Hills) 95/100

Trisaetum 2024 Ribbon Ridge Estate Dry Riesling

This is from the vineyard that adjoins the winery, a dense wine with excellent texture and depth. Unpacking the flavors requires time and patience, especially with a new vintage. Hints of almonds, lime, green banana, green apple and Asian pear come up slowly. $40 (Ribbon Ridge) 94/100

Pinot Gris

King Estate 2023 Domaine Pinot Gris

This reserve bottling is 100% estate sourced and gets an extra year in bottle prior to release. Dense and mineral-backed fruit flavors combine citrus, apple, white peach and Asian pear in a generous and long-lasting palate. It also has the capacity to age well, often better than many Chardonnays. At five or six years post-release this wine will surprise you with its development and complexity. $40 (Willamette Valley) 94/100

Soléna 2023 Pinot Gris

An exceptionally luxurious style, dense and richly detailed; this takes Pinot Gris to a whole new level unknown even a decade ago. Layers of orchard fruits – apples, peaches and pears – flow into a densely textured finish with hints of butterscotch and a foundation of wet rock minerality. A touch of tongue-tickling spritz remains, adding more liveliness to the palate. Exceptional value. $24 (Willamette Valley) 95/100

Other White Wines

Abacela 2024 Albariño

This estate-grown, all-stainless fermented wine is a bright gold, with scents of sweet clover and honeysuckle. Bright and polished, it’s a bowlful of delicious peaches, with enough acid to keep it lively. The ’24 is significantly riper than the previous vintage; try it with grilled peaches. $22 (Umpqua Valley) 93/100

Avennia 2023 Oliane Sauvignon Blanc

As is becoming almost standard practice, this 100% varietal is given varied fermentations – 48% in neutral oak, 30% in concrete egg, and the rest in a single 600 liter cask – then aged seven months in 7% new French oak. The complexity is apparent in the density, detail and length. Citrus rind, orchard fruits and a dusting of pollen all combine in a crisp, clean, lingering finish. $30 (Yakima Valley) 94/100

Brockmeyer 2024 Otis Vineyard Albariño

This immaculately fresh, lightly pétillant white wine is an absolute joy, with deceptively deep flavors of lemon and grapefruit, flesh and rind, backed with river rock minerality. As it warms a bit a touch of papaya comes out. Simply delicious! $21 (Yakima Valley) 94/100

Delmas 2023 Viognier

A gorgeous wine, loaded with lemon rind, apricot, papaya, melon and even more esoteric fruits. The acids are more than sufficient to balance it out. The lees stirring contributes texture and depth, while the vineyard itself brings a pleasing mineral substrate. The finish lingers, clean and refreshing, seemingly adding more layers, streaks of butterscotch part of the changing mix of flavors as it breathes. Not yet released. (Walla Walla Valley) 98/100

Efesté 2024 Feral Sauvignon Blanc

Evergreen Vineyard grapes fermented in a mix of stainless steel and oak puncheons with wild yeasts. The wine is concentrated, sharp and zesty, with vivid flavors of citrus flesh and rind, particularly grapefruit. The vineyard’s typical minerality is also evident, but it is the depth and power of the wine through the finish that most impresses. Exceptional value. $25 (Ancient Lakes) 94/100

Liminal 2022 Vineyard Series WeatherEye Vineyard The Aerialist

A 70/30 Roussanne/Marsanne blend, aged 16 months in 30% new French oak, it’s aromatic and floral, big in the mouth, packed with a jumble of citrus, peach and melon fruits. It gently opens into layers of linalool, vanilla and herbal tea around the core fruit – further confirmation that the extraordinary work done by WeatherEye viticulturalist Ryan Johnson is paying huge dividends. $50 (Columbia Valley) 96/100

Tranche 2022 Blue Mountain Vineyard Pape Blanc

A juicy, sappy, sexy six-variety blend of Roussanne, Grenache Blanc, Viognier, Clairette Blanche, Marsanne and Picpoul. This maintains focus and seamlessly showcases a lip-smacking palate of lemon, lime, grapefruit and tangerine, both flesh and rind. Fermented in a mix of French oak barrels and concrete eggs, it’s beautifully balanced and lively through the finish. Outstanding value. $30 (Walla Walla Valley) 94/100

Cabernets/Merlots/ Bordeaux Blends

Abeja 2022 Merlot

From the days when John Abbott was the winemaker here right on through the current team of Dan Wampfler and Amy Alvarez-Wampfler Merlot has been a shining star for Abeja. This is 100% varietal and needs no tweaking with any other grapes. It’s supple, silky and polished, with densely packed black fruits and seams of espresso. Enjoyable now and ageworthy for at least a decade, this is a superb wine by any standard. $55 (Columbia Valley) 96/100

Corliss 2020 Red Bordeaux Blend

It’s easy to run out of superlatives for Corliss. The vineyards meticulously cared for, the winemaking tends to the tiniest details, and the entire portfolio is laser-focused. This Bordeaux blend is 60% Cabernet Franc and 40% Cabernet Sauvignon. Aromatically compelling, it’s classic and stylish, powerful, dark and packed with black fruits accented with notes of graphite, coffee grounds and barrel spice. $110 (Red Mountain) 98/100

Figgins 2022 FIGGINS Estate Red

This is Cabernet dominant, with undisclosed percentages of Merlot and Petit Verdot completing the blend. Dark and muscular, wound up tight, at this stage (pre-release) it’s almost impenetrable when first poured. After many hours a firm base of cassis, black cherry and ripe, polished tannins emerges. There are notes of coffee grounds, tobacco and dried Italian herbs. Clearly a wine built for long term aging, with structure, depth, balance and detail all built in. $95; (Walla Walla Valley) 97/100

L'Ecole 2022 Estate Grown Cabernet Franc-Merlot

This is a 50/50 blend from the estate’s Seven Hills and Ferguson vineyards. It brings the best of both into play – minerality from the Ferguson, broadly flavorful berry fruit from Seven Hills. There are ample tannins, ripe and just now starting to smooth out, with trailing flavors of pencil lead annotated with caramel and coffee grounds. Aged 22 months in 30% new barrels. $45 (Walla Walla Valley) 94/100

Leonetti Cellar 2023 Merlot

This is a captivating, elegant wine, which shows subtlety and power in equal measure. It gets released a year ahead of the rest of the portfolio. What I love here is the way the details keep zooming in… crushed raspberries, pumice, Earl Grey tea, a touch of tobacco. The aromatics are stunningly good, and the wine, remarkably, is even better on the second day. $90 (Walla Walla Valley) 98/100

Long Shadows 2020 Pirouette

This is two thirds Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot and just 2% each Cab Franc and Malbec, principally Red Mountain fruit, with dense, chewy tannins wrapped in baking chocolate. It’s a masterful piece of winemaking in a difficult vintage, and follows on the heels of the outstanding 2019 Pirouette. Spicy, lightly floral, dusted with coffee grounds and cocoa, this is anchored in cassis and black fruits in the concentrated core. $70 (Columbia Valley) 97/100

Matthews 2022 Reserve Cabernet Franc

A juicy, jammy, delicious bottle of potent red wine. A bit more fruit forward than most of its peers, with red fruits as well as black, a chef’s cabinet of spices, and dusting of coffee grounds as it trails out. The tannins are ripe and polished, with concentration and grip. It’s beautifully balanced start to finish. $135 (Columbia Valley) 97/100

Passing Time 2022 Cabernet Sauvignon

Three premier Red Mountain vineyards are at the heart of this wine – Klipsun, Kiona Heart of the Hill, and Red Mountain. A clear and strong through-line captures an unmistakable style – power, balance, ripe and polished tannins. The Red Mountain tannins are firm, grainy, toasty and structural, with black currant, graphite and clean earth accents. The depth and length suggests a lifespan that could extend to mid-century. $110 (Red Mountain) 97/100

Seven Hills 2022 Ciel du Cheval Vineyard Red

Old blocks from this legendary Red Mountain vineyard are on display; supple, almost silky, potent and showing suppressed power. Deep flavors of black cherry, cassis, espresso, iron filings and tobacco, dusted with baking spices, show that the hand of winemaker Bobby Richards has moved Seven Hills wines away from the Euro-style reds of the past and into a more contemporary style. $65 (Red Mountain) 96/100

Sheridan 2022 Block One Cabernet Sauvignon

Sheridan’s top reserve Cab is dense, deep and dark, with ripe and grainy tannins. Think Red Mountain meets Stags Leap. This outstanding wine can serve as a model for the often overlooked excellence of the Rattlesnake Hills AVA reds. The balance of acid, tannin and fruit is impressive, all without excessively high alcohol. $125 (Yakima Valley) 95/100

Upchurch 2022 Cabernet Sauvignon

This flagship estate wine taps into Chris Upchurch’s decades of exploring both Bordeaux varieties and Red Mountain terroir to build a polished, textbook example of pure Cabernet. A dark ruby hue, it packs brambly blackberries, graphite, loam, coffee grounds, chicory and a dash of lemon shavings into a dense, compact core. The detail and texture push this near the top of the heap for Washington Cabernets. $90 (Red Mountain) 96/100

The Walls 2022 Curiositas Cabernet Sauvignon

The rich, vibrant deep garnet hues are the gateway to a deep, dense, tannic yet fruit-packed Cab that brings unusual complexity to such power. Black cherry, cassis, espresso, black tea, a whiff of smoke, toasted hazelnuts and more are in play. Give this plenty of aeration to unpack all the flavors. Highly ageworthy. $75 (Red Mountain) 96/100

Pinot Noir

Anacréon 2022 Center of Gravity Pinot Noir

There’s a firm, sturdy authority to this wine, a muscular profile and earthy aromatics. Dense plum and cherry fruit flavors coalesce around orange peel citrus, fresh mushrooms and a tangle of dried herbs. The depth and density suggest that this will develop quite well if cellared long term – at least a decade and probably longer. $90 (Chehalem Mountains) 95/100

Anderson Family 2022 ‘Select’ Pinot Noir

A barrel selection packed with jammy marionberry, blueberry and cherry fruit. The intensity of the fruit is remarkable, and definitely a highlight. It’s balanced with tart acids throughout, finishing with polished, lightly spicy tannins and a touch of new oak toast. $125 (Dundee Hills) 95/100

Bergström 2023 La Spirale Vineyard Pinot Noir

Density and detail, a whiff and flavor of seashells, brambly mountain berry jam and a long, resonant finish. As it trails out more spices and barrel highlights pile on – citrus and chocolate, creamy mocha and lemon verbena. The flavors linger for minutes, almost as long as you can resist taking that next sip. $100 (Ribbon Ridge) 97/100

Bethel Heights 2022 Lewman Vineyard Estate Pinot Noir

Big, bold, forward, bursting with fruit, this is a wine that grabs you by the throat and doesn’t let go. The full mid-palate brings tangy oranges, apricots, red berries, plums and refreshing acids. Firm, polished tannins frame the extended finish, adding highlights of sassafras, shiitake mushrooms and lemon oil. $75; (Eola-Amity Hills) 95/100

Cortell Collection 2022 Cortell Rose Vineyard Pinot Noir

The fruit dives into pretty cherry flavors wrapped in a frame of milk chocolate. It retains the elegance and balance of the other Cortell Pinots, but here there’s less savory herb and more front of the palate fruit. It’s got the structure, concentration and balance to age, but is ready for near-term drinking. $65 (Eola-Amity Hills) 95/100

Domaine Drouhin Oregon 2022 Laurène Pinot Noir

By any standard this is exceptional Pinot Noir – beautifully ripened, balanced, textured and detailed. Full-bodied fruit flavors combine berries and cherries with splashes of citrus. The use of new oak is careful and proportionate, and those notes of spice and toast play out gently through an extended finish. Brilliant structure is the hallmark of all DDO wines, and this wine from this vintage should have decades of life ahead. $80 (Dundee Hills) 96/100

Élevée Winegrowers 2022 Madrona Hill Vineyard Pinot Noir

A lovely blend of textured berry and cherry fruit, buttressed with acids bringing a touch of blood orange, this introduces accents of dried Italian herbs as it weaves its way across and down through the palate. Along with the supporting acids come light, finishing touches of lemon rind framing the fading finish. It’s a beautiful, textbook Pinot Noir in every way – color, scents, fruit, acids and tannins. $62 (Laurelwood District) 95/100

Evesham Wood 2022 Cuvée J Pinot Noir

This is a barrel selection from the estate vineyard, made with a ‘proprietary’ yeast that the winery believes is best noted in the texture of the wine. Texture is a strong suit across the entire portfolio. Texture and density go hand in hand, and this wine has them in spades. Blackberry and black cherry fruit, a strong wash of composted earth, coffee grounds, tar, black tea, tobacco… on and on. $64 (Eola-Amity Hills) 97/100

The Eyrie Vineyards 2019 South Block Reserve Pinot Noir

First planted in 1968 and bottled as a single block selection in 1975, these 10 rows of Pinot Noir are as special and iconic as any in Oregon. The supremely elegant and subtle 2019 pulls together well-integrated components of strawberry, raspberry, chamomile tea, hints of Asian spices and on it goes. I don’t know how much longer there will be any South Block wines as the case count diminishes with every year as phylloxera takes its toll on these old soldiers. $300 (Dundee Hills) 98/100

Folly of Man 2023 Estate Pinot Noir

Skillful, subtle, spot-on winemaking underlies this perfectly poised young Pinot Noir. The aromas conjure up classic beetroot, raspberry, cherry and Dr. Pepper notes; in the mouth the wine feels like a particularly successful blind date (I’ve never had these wines before) – harmonious, effortless, totally in sync with itself. A seamless tapestry of berries with hints of sandalwood, milk chocolate and butterscotch – nothing excessive, all in proportion. $100 (Eola-Amity Hills) 96/100

Ken Wright 2023 Freedom Hill Vineyard Pinot Noir

This bursts open into a delightful, perfectly balanced mix of blackberries, cherries, salted chocolate, lightly savory tannins and sappy acids. A very young wine that is already spectacular, and with more bottle age should turn into a masterpiece. Best of all the 2023 Ken Wright Pinots by far. 13.4%; $65 (Willamette Valley) 96/100

LucidWild 2022 Chosen Pinot Noir

This five barrel reserve combines four clones from the estate vineyard. Rich with purple and black fruits, subtle hints of citrus oil, and well-ripened tannins wit light touches of barrel toast. All culminating in a spicy, intriguing finish that makes this a wine to study and contemplate. $310 (Dundee Hills) 96/100

Ponzi 2021 Reserve Pinot Noir

A mix of strawberry, rhubarb, white raspberry and plum, accented with Italian herbs. With texture and captivating complexity, this wine continued to drink beautifully 48+ hours after being opened. Impressive! $75 (Laurelwood District) 96/100

Ruby 2021 Flora’s Reserve Pinot Noir

This two barrel reserve showcases fruit from the original 1973 planting of Wadenswil vines. This is a one bottle history of Willamette Valley Pinot Noir. The details converge around a core of ripe red and purple berry fruits, adding threads of baking spices, mocha, caramel, cocoa, and even coconut. Great penetration, balance and length. A bedrock minerality anchors the finish. $125 (Laurelwood District) 96/100

Syrah

Cayuse 2022 Bionic Frog Syrah

The grapes date from 1998, and at this age deliver the depth, texture, detail and yes, elegance, that can be found in vines of a certain age. This isn’t struggling to be what it is, it isn’t pushing you or shouting at you. It’s almost a finesse wine at this point, though still young, compact, brambly and loaded with earthy components. It smoothes out over hours and days, retaining its layered depth and long lasting finish. $135 (Walla Walla Valley) 97/100

Hors Catégorie 2022 Syrah

This is a palate-soaking, aromatic, spelunking wine of the first degree, emblematic of the adventurous, difficult, ground-breaking efforts of vigneron Christophe Baron since he first plowed through layers of cobblestones while pioneering what has become one of the most sought after, unique AVAs in the country. Opening with an intense, powerful nose, it shows a menthol/mint undercurrent, a bit like eucalyptus. Massively flavorful, yet still tight and compact, it unbuttons itself in your mouth, flavors peeling away into myriad layers of berries and cherries, herbs galore, composted earth, hints of clean fungus and graphite and granite. The length is amazing, unfolding over minutes, and not just continuing, but evolving through layer after layer after layer. $270 (Walla Walla Valley) 100/100

Pášxa 2022 Rockgarden Vineyard Syrah

A riot of scents and flavors. The moderate acids bring blood orange and tangerine; the fruits are a mix of berries, plums and cherries backed by a wash of savory herbs. The umami highlights kick in with soy, black tea, compost and coffee grounds, nicely melded and providing a firm tannic base. This Syrah drank just as well on the third day as on the first day. A beautiful bottle start to finish. $95 (Rocks District/Walla Walla Valley) 98/100

Quady North 2021 Mae’s Vineyard Syrah

A well-woven tapestry of berries, teas, floral highlights and forest floor umami flavors. Dark, supple, clean and beautifully structured, this exceptional Syrah is delicious now and cellarable for another decade plus of improvement. Berries, plums, baking spices, vanilla and hints of cut tobacco add more and more threads to the flavor. A stunning value. $35 (Applegate Valley) 95/100

Saviah 2022 ‘The Funk’ Estate Syrah

Sourced entirely from the flagship estate vineyard, co-fermented with 4% Viognier, and aged 18 months in 500 liter puncheons, 40% new. A streak of espresso rips across this compact, complex Syrah, dense with black fruits, espresso, black olive and anise, and underscored with light, lemony acids. The flavors penetrate and stay focused, deepening though a long finish. $70 (Walla Walla Valley) 97/100

Other Red Wines

Force Majeure 2022 Red Mountain Estate Grenache

This is 100% varietal, one third fermented whole cluster in concrete, then given 18 months in neutral French oak. It’s almost buttery in the mouth, loaded to the brim with ripe berries and plums, accented with savory herbs, a touch of cocoa and clean, moist earth. It’s pure, balanced and elegant along with its obvious power. $85 (Red Mountain) 96/100

Rocky Pond 2023 Double D Vineyard Studio Red

A phenomenal Grenache/Mourvèdre blend, co-fermented in concrete, 40% whole cluster. Rich flavors of huckleberry/marionberry jam build through a strong, deep core, extending into a long finish with density, clarity and power. Graphite, espresso, dark chocolate and black olive notes come through, along with cut tobacco. $65 (Rocky Reach) 96/100

Sleight of Hand 2022 The Sorceress Reserve Grenache

WeatherEye, Upland and French Creek vineyards supplied the fruit for this outstanding, pure varietal Grenache packed with black fruits and accents of dark chocolate, coffee grounds, black tea and licorice. Dense and detailed, potent and pleasurable, this radiates character and quality from the first sip to the last lingering drop. $65 (Yakima Valley) 98/100

WeatherEye 2022 Estate Grenache

This is 100% Grenache from four different vineyard blocks (some on the Columbia Valley side of the mountain), all head-trained, fermented in concrete with 30% whole clusters, and aged in neutral wood. It’s a profound experience immersing your palate in a wine of such purity, tasting the lush mix of blueberries, blackberries, loganberries, black cherries and more, set perfectly in a frame of ripe, polished tannins. $85 (Columbia Valley) 97/100