Swimming Against The Tide? LucidWild Goes All In On Ultra Premium Wine
Plus: New releases from Airfield, Anderson Family, Compton Family, Cowhorn and Force Majeure
It’s no longer news to point out the struggles facing wineries old and new, large and small, domestic and foreign. And yet despite Covid, despite shifting consumer preferences, despite tariff wars et al, new and highly ambitious wineries keep appearing. One such is LucidWild, a startup in the heart of Oregon’s Dundee Hills AVA. Kickstarted with the January 2021 purchase of the Bella Vida vineyard, LucidWild made its debut with a few hundred cases of wine from that same year. In prior vintages Bella Vida grapes (the vineyard was planted in 1998) were sold to a number of high profile wineries; among them J.C. Somers, Fullerton and Penner-Ash. In my reviews of those wines I’d always given their Bella Vida bottlings high praise and high scores.
Reporting on the vineyard sale four years ago, Wine Business noted that “Blair, a retired attorney, and his wife L.J., settled on Bella Vida after touring multiple properties in the region. Blair Nicholas said he was drawn to the Willamette Valley’s Pinot Noir because of his love for Burgundian-style wines. Our new tasting room and wine cave will open after the first Nicholas Family Vineyards wines are released in 2024” Nicholas disclosed.
Those plans are coming to fruition now, with an expansive new ‘SkyTerrace’ tasting room planned for a grand opening this summer. Having tasted the current LucidWild releases, I can concur that the new owners and winemaker Isabelle Meunier are off to a fine start and yes, the sky’s the limit. Meunier is well known and respected for her proven expertise. At LucidWild she embraces “minimalist winemaking technique including natural and native yeast fermentation and extended élévage in French oak, to develop earth-driven aromatics, complex structure, and to connect the wine to the land.”
I queried Blair Nicholas about some of the tough decisions he and his wife grappled with when putting together this ambitious project in such fraught times for the wine industry.
PG: Most of the wine news these days is negative. And it’s never easy to start a new project. What led up to the decision to move forward with LucidWild right in the midst of Covid?
BN: “We understand that much of the current wine narrative leans toward pessimism, but we felt the timing to launch LucidWild was right, driven by an undeniable discovery and long-term vision. LucidWild’s 27-year-old Dundee Hills vineyard was a treasure that simply demanded to be showcased. Even amidst the uncertainties of Covid, we felt compelled to share this exceptional vineyard with the world. The history of this vineyard, known for producing extraordinary wines crafted by some of the top winemakers in the Willamette Valley, provided us with a strong foundation, and we knew its potential to produce world-class wines was unwavering.
“The success we've seen since launching LucidWild's first vintage in 2023 has further validated our decision. Despite the broader challenges facing the wine industry, our Founders Club was fully allocated within months, and we’ve seen robust direct demand, even ahead of our official tasting room opening in July 2025. People are prioritizing quality over quantity, and LucidWild’s wines have struck a chord with those seeking a premium, authentic experience. While wine consumption may fluctuate overall, our commitment to producing wines of unmatched quality has generated outsized demand, and we’re excited to continue building on this momentum.”
PG: The Bella Vida vineyard was already a success when you acquired it. What improvements have you made (if any) since?
BN: “Since taking ownership, we’ve worked diligently to honor and build upon the vineyard’s legacy. We’ve kept the core practices that contributed to its outstanding reputation, continuing 100% dry-farming and maintaining certifications for LIVE, Bee Friendly, and Salmon-Safe. We also recognize the uniqueness of the vineyard’s terroir: southwest-facing slopes, elevations of 600-800 feet, and the deep, fertile Jory soils, combined with the richness of seven Pinot Noir and three Chardonnay clones. To ensure the vineyard's biodiversity, we’ve dedicated 15% of the land to wildlife habitats, further enhancing the balance of the ecosystem.”
PG: How did you go about choosing a name, designing a logo, art-directing labels. What were the goals and choices you had to make?
BN: “LucidWild was born from a desire to express both our clear, thoughtful approach to farming and the untamed, unpredictable nature of Willamette Valley winemaking. The name itself embodies this balance – a 'lucid' commitment to top quality farming and sustainable practices combined with the 'wild' essence of nature, the land and the craft. It's a harmony we believe is authentic and essential to the wines we produce.”
“When it came to the logo and overall branding, our goal was simplicity with impact. For the labels, we aimed to capture the emotional journey that wine offers, both the personal connection and the sense of place it embodies. To achieve this, we collaborated up with Sean Mosher-Smith of EchoDesign Labs in Brooklyn. Known for his work with musicians like Lenny Kravitz, Courtney Love, and Dave Matthews, Sean brought a fresh perspective to our wine labels. Each design element was chosen to reflect the authenticity of the brand and the connection between the land, the wine, and those who enjoy it. The aim was to craft a visual experience that resonates with our customers as much as the wines themselves.”
PG: I think you’d agree that for a new winery you’ve jumped in at the high end of pricing. What is the thinking behind that decision?
BN: “Our decision to price LucidWild at a premium reflects the exceptional quality of our wines, which are crafted with meticulous attention to detail. Our yields are naturally low [which] enhances the concentration and character of the grapes.
The strong demand we’ve seen for our wines since our first release confirms that people are seeking wines that express a true sense of place and craftsmanship.”
PG: Finally, how do you see LucidWild fitting into the broader landscape of Willamette Valley wines - in other words, what will be your niche; how will you stand out?
BN: “We are honored to contribute to the rich tapestry of the Dundee Hills, Willamette Valley and our celebrated wine region, offering a truly unique expression of this iconic site. Beyond the wines themselves, we are committed to redefining the wine-tasting experience. This summer, we’ll unveil LucidWild SkyTerraces + WineCaves, a destination designed to immerse guests in a multi-sensory exploration of our wines. Perched 800 feet above the valley floor overlooking the estate vineyard, this 15,000-square-foot space offers everything from intimate SkyLounge tastings with panoramic views to immersive barrel tastings in our WineCaves. Guests will also have the opportunity to engage with our Valais Sheep and connect in our vineyard-level IdeaLab boardroom, designed for creative collaboration.”
PG: Thank you Blair for these insights into LucidWild. I look forward to visiting the property later this spring. And now on to the wines. This is the first release from LucidWild that I’ve had an opportunity to taste. Readers interested in reviews of previous vintages can find them on the website.
LucidWild 2022 Hidden Chardonnay – Fermented with native yeast and aged 12 months in neutral French oak, this single vineyard, estate-grown, small batch wine is elegant, delicately etched with mineral and citrus rind, tart, lightly peppery and highly persuasive. The texture, length and evolving flavors throughout emulate a fine Burgundy in the best way. Though the barrels used were neutral, they have imparted a gentle hint of soda cracker to the engaging finish. Very limited. 45 cases; 12.8%, $95 (Dundee Hills) 94/100
LucidWild 2022 Fusion Pinot Noir – Estate-grown, mixed clone material fuses into a smooth, supple wine with aromas of Asian spices and mixed berries. Fresh, vibrant and tangy flavors follow – a rush of strawberry, raspberry and cherry, accented with orange peel. Coming up in the finish are barrel-aging highlights of buttery caramel after 16 months in 30% new oak. Just as fresh and inviting after being open for 24 hours. 660 cases; 13.3%; $95 (Dundee Hills) 94/100
LucidWild 2022 Beast Pinot Noir – Blackberry, marionberry and black cherry fruit flavors jump from the glass, backed with slightly grainy tannins that bring texture and details of graphite and slate. Big, bold, mouthcoating and leaning into the dark side, this potent wine from estate-grown, mixed clones touches also on the hints of iron ore that typify wines from this storied AVA. 570 cases; 13.5%; $155 (Dundee Hills) 95/100
LucidWild 2022 Chosen Pinot Noir – This five barrel reserve combines four clones from the estate vineyard. All three LucidWild Pinots are beautifully crafted and barrel aged 16 months in 30% new French oak. A different mix of clones is used in each of them. The Chosen cuvée brings aspects of the Fusion and the Beast into a complete and satisfying finale. Rich with purple and black fruits, subtle hints of citrus oil, and well-ripened tannins wit light touches of barrel toast. All culminating in a spicy, intriguing finish that makes this a wine to study and contemplate. 120 cases; 13.6%; $310 (Dundee Hills) 96/100
Catching up on other recent tastings, here are select highlights from more extensive lineups. Presented in alphabetical order.
Airfield Estates
Among the spring releases are these two standout value plays.
Airfield 2024 Sauvignon Blanc – This is a perfect clone of the ’23 – grassy, balanced and clean, showing flavors of pea vine, lemon oil, grapefruit rind and hibiscus tea, and tart enough to whet the appetite. Give it a little bit of a chill and you’ll have an ideal hot weather white wine. 11,400 cases; 12.6%; $17 (Yakima Valley) 90/100
Airfield 2024 Sangiovese Rosé – I think that this grape most often does best as a rosé here in Washington, and this is fresh, lightly spicy and well-balanced. It brings a mix of rosewater, watermelon, strawberries and blood orange, crisp and focused, with a clean and lingering finish. 1230 cases; 12.4%; $18 (Yakima Valley) 90/100
“Steep. Deep. Intense.” reads the headline on the winery website. If (make that when) you visit this remarkable winery and vineyard, you’ll understand why Cliff and Allison Anderson can lay claim to that distinction. High on a deep pile of broken basalt from an ancient landslide, the vineyard had to be “chiseled out” over three decades ago.
Cliff Anderson sent these notes on his 2022 wines:
“The year had more than enough challenges: spring frosts, mid and late season disease pressure and the longest hangtime since 2011. However, for those who were lucky or responded well, the vintage could be truly spectacular…
- if you didn’t panic with the spring frosts.
- if you left a “kicker cane” in the air to mitigate frost damage.
- if you went ahead and did crop estimates/adjustments in spite of a variable fruit set.
- if you were on top of the frequent and late disease outbreaks.
- if you dropped Pinot noir where it was too heavy.
- if you waited into mid-October for flavors to develop and concentrate in the glorious late summer heat and cool nights.”
Here are my notes on the latest releases.
Anderson Family 2022 Pinot Gris – Spicy apple flavors jump out immediately, followed with notes of almond and peach. The wine retains a hint of spritz (visible coating the inner glass) adding texture and minerality to the mouthfeel. It’s fermented in stainless with native yeasts, given six months to finish and another six on the lees. 150 cases; 14%; $40 (Dundee Hills) 92/100
Anderson Family 2022 Chardonnay – Though light on its feet this has a sharp edge still, and a core of juicy fruit gum flavors. Lemons and apples are in the mix, along with a hint of vanilla. Nicely balanced with plenty of fresh fruit, this should be enjoyed over the rest of this decade. 170 cases; 14.4%; $48 (Dundee Hills) 91/100
Anderson Family 2022 Pinot Noir – This five clone blend - Pommard, Wadenswil, 115, 667 & 777 – comes with a strong menthol/petrichor note running through and suffusing the plummy purple fruit with a vaporous shield. Behind that is a well-constructed wine with ample acidity, firm tannins and a solid fruit core. The long finish resonates with more of that unusual, distinctive petrichor characteristic that may be particular to this unique site. 1030 cases; 13.6%; $56 (Dundee Hills) 92/100
Anderson Family 2022 ‘Select’ Pinot Noir – Cliff Anderson defines this wine, which is not made every year, as having “all the characteristics of the regular bottling on steroids”. It’s a barrel selection, and packed with jammy marionberry, blueberry and cherry fruit. The intensity of the fruit is remarkable, and definitely a highlight. It’s balanced with tart acids throughout, finishing with polished, lightly spicy tannins and a touch of new oak toast. If you love a fruit-driven Pinot Noir as I do, grab this! 150 cases; 13.6%; $125 (Dundee Hills) 95/100
Compton 2023 Garden Series Pinot Gris – This catches the hint of blush that characterizes this grape. It’s in a fine drinking window, with citrus and pear and green table grape flavors. Almost fleshy, nicely balanced and textural, it is especially attractive at this price. 2500 cases; 13%; $20 (Willamette Valley) 92/100
Compton 2023 Garden Series Ramato Pinot Gris – Not to be confused with the previously released Garden Series PG, this is a more limited single vineyard selection. It’s a deep sunset hue, bone dry and slightly oxidized orange wine, with all the plusses and minusses of such efforts. In place of fresh fruit flavors are more sundown flavors of dried apricots and dried pears. The flavors collect in the back of the palate and linger on the finish, with a lightly toasty edge. 121 cases; 13.7%; $28 (Willamette Valley) 90/100
Compton 2022 Garden Series Pinot Noir – This is aromatic and savory, light on its feet but powerfully flavorful. Peppery red berries, a hint of watermelon, firm tannins and decent length make this a perfect every day Pinot Noir Many of the Pinots from the southern Willamette Valley are by any standard underpriced for the quality, and this proves the point. 1232 cases; 13%; $25 (Willamette Valley) 90/100
Compton 2022 Garden Series BoVine Vineyard Pinot Noir – A single vineyard companion to the other 2022 Garden Series Pinot Noir, the BoVine is fragrant and juicy, with powerful citrus flavors along with pretty raspberry and cherry notes. Forward, fresh and refreshing, it’s sealed with a screwcap and should drink well for another four or five years. 120 cases; 13.5%; $28 (Willamette Valley) 90/100
Compton Family 2021 Llewellyn Cuvée Pinot Noir – This is a wine so lovely in the glass that you can simply gaze at it awhile before tasting. The aromas bring brambly berry, cherry and herbal spice. As with many screwcapped wines it’s shut down and needs extra breathing time for the flavors to fill in. Not a big wine by any standard, but elegant and complex, with finishing notes of chocolate and underbrush. 96 cases; 13%; $40 (Willamette Valley) 91/100
Compton Family 2021 Alpine Cuvée Pinot Noir – The Alpine and Llewellyn blends complement each other nicely; this one firm, chewy and tannic, the Llewellyn lighter and more refined. Both list abv at 13% but this feels bigger, stronger, harder and darker. Flavors combine black cherry, mineral and coffee grounds, with supporting acids and tannins. 96 cases; 13%; $40 (Willamette Valley) 91/100
Compton Family 2022 Croft Vineyard Pinot Noir – Pretty cherry fruit is the star here, backed with underbrush and light baking spices. Firm, balanced and on the juicy side with plenty of acidity, it’s a tasty, focused wine which should drink well through the rest of the decade and beyond. 164 cases; 14%; $40 (Willamette Valley) 92/100
Compton Family 2021 Mary's Peak Vineyard Pinot Noir – Sourced from 40-year-old vines, this shows refinement and depth of flavor, though you must look for it. It’s tight and tart, aromatic and compact, with slowly blossoming flavors of red fruits, caramel and bourbon tea. As it rolls through the finish, highlights of sandalwood, toast and a dollop of butter all contribute to a smooth, well-integrated landing. Let it breathe and it will show its best. 153 cases; 13.5%; $42 (Willamette Valley) 92/100
Cowhorn
Cowhorn continues to practice biodynamic viticulture under new ownership. The white wines are impressive.
Cowhorn 2022 Marsanne Roussanne – Rich with ripe fruit, honeycomb and pear tart, this mouth-coating white blend has the guts and power to go with anything that the oakiest Chardonnay might handle. It’s all fruit powered, though the rich finish suggests some barrel time in new wood also. Lush, long and delicious. 195 cases; 14%; $40 (Applegate Valley) 92/100
Cowhorn 2022 Spiral White – The blend is 43% Viognier, 17% Marsanne and 40% Roussanne, a tightly focused wine scented with citrus oil and white flowers. Flavors follow, adding grapefruit, lemon zest and lemony herbs to the mix. Fresh and textured, it brings a deft mix of details into the finish, a nod to the biodynamic farming that underlies the Cowhorn label. 14%; $40 (Applegate Valley) 92/100
Last March I reviewed the 2021 vintage of the four wines below, along with additional reviews of Force Majeure Viognier, Epinette, Red Mountain and Walla Walla Cabs, a Cab Franc and a Tempranillo. Lewis Skinner has just been named the new estate winemaker at Force Majeure, so decisions on where the winery will go with future vintages will be in his hands. On the website currently there are 2022 versions of a Cabernet, a Cab Franc and an Epinette blend listed along with the four wines reviewed here. None of those wines were included in my recent tasting.
Force Majeure 2022 Red Mountain Estate Grenache – 2022 is the second vintage for this estate Grenache. The original vines date from 2006. This is 100% varietal, one third fermented whole cluster in concrete, then given 18 months in neutral French oak. It’s almost buttery in the mouth, loaded to the brim with ripe berries and plums, accented with savory herbs, a touch of cocoa and clean, moist earth. It’s pure, balanced and elegant along with its obvious power. Add this to the list of top tier Grenache wines I featured about a month ago. 213 cases; 14.7%; $85 (Red Mountain) 96/100
Force Majeure 2022 Red Mountain Estate Parvata – Parvata is Sanskrit for mountain; the name given to this GSM blend, which flips the mix to MGS – 50% Mourvèdre, 29% Grenache and 21% Syrah. Fermented in concrete and stainless prior to aging in large format neutral French oak, it’s a Red Mountain take on a classic southern Rhône style. With a high percentage of Mourvèdre in the blend, flavors of raspberry and black cherry fruit are more broadly displayed, annotated with hints of ground coffee, peat, graphite and white chocolate. Broad and textural, it will especially appeal to anyone with a fancy for Mourvèdre and has another six to eight years of optimal drinking ahead. 200 cases; 14.6%; $85 (Red Mountain) 94/100
Force Majeure 2022 Walla Walla Estate Syrah – This is the third release of Syrah from the recently renovated vineyard adjacent to the winery. The young vines bring bright, forward flavors of red plum and cherry fruit, backed by tangy acids and a touch of sweet spice. It’s pure Syrah, given a concrete ferment with native yeast, then barreled unfined and unfiltered in large format used French oak. The tannins are astringent and decanting is recommended at this early age. A nice milk chocolate note resonates across the finish. 359 cases; 14.6%; $85 (Walla Walla Valley) 94/100
Force Majeure 2022 Red Mountain Estate Syrah – Co-fermented with Viognier (as is traditional in France), this estate-grown Red Mountain Syrah is packed with black fruits, cassis, black pepper, graphite and highlights of dried sage. It saw 30% new oak, adding spice to the muscular, polished and astringent tannins. It’s a big, bold Syrah that is built to age over a decade or longer. 400 cases; 14.8%; $85 (Red Mountain) 95/100
Music Update – I have set up a music site on Bandcamp with recordings of original songs from my decades as a singer/songwriter. I’ll be adding material on an ongoing basis. Honestly, this is not another plea for financial support. I don’t even have that part of the website activated. I’m looking for ears, not dollars. If you are a musician and want to record any of this material, give me a shout and we’ll figure it out.
we're going to be in walla walla a fair amount this spring - any scheduled gigs??
Isabelle Meunier - now there's an aptronym.