Stumped in the Supermarket Wine Department? You're Not Alone.

Plus: Intriguing wines from Flâneur and Prince Hill, and an exciting new wine sharing program from Karen MacNeil

I do the grocery shopping in our family, and I’ve gotten to know the layout of the nearest chain grocer pretty well. As I walk the aisles there are few surprises – the center rows are stuffed with chips and snacks and candy and sugary cereals; on the perimeter you’ll find the vegetables, dairy and meat counters. The huge center freezers have all the convenience foods and a zillion frozen pizza options. Standard stuff. But here’s the head scratcher. Smack dab in the most visible and heavily trafficked part of the store is the wine department, and it’s vast. Row after row after row of wines, in bottles and cans and boxes, flanked by giant end stacks of soda pop wines, hard lemonade, No-Lo options and pre-mixed cocktails.

My question:  who actually buys this stuff?

I’m as nosy as the next person, and I give a good look at what all the folks around me in the check-out lines have in their carts. And I have almost never seen anyone buying wine. Cases of soda, more cases of various waters, occasionally some beer. But maybe once or twice a month I’ll see someone with a bottle of wine in their cart. And it’s always a super cheap box or magnum of some big brand.

As we live in wine country, with 130+ tasting rooms just in Walla Walla county, it may be that wine drinkers are getting their goodies directly from the producers rather than the grocer. But why would a major grocery store continue to stock vast quantities of wine that no one is buying? Perhaps – just a guess – the wineries and distributors are paying so much for shelf space that somehow the numbers make sense. Whether or not that’s true, it does nothing to help consumers find good wines at value prices.

It seems to me that a much better approach would be for the grocery to curate its inventory, along the lines of a dedicated wine shop. Fewer and better options. Yes it’s fine to stock a few good box wines, and yes you’ll have to have a number of cheap but recognizable Washington and California brands. But once you cross the $20 price point I think you are simply blind-siding any potential customer with too many choices, and most of them not worth the money. How many times is a potential regular wine purchaser going to be disappointed before they give up?

Let’s say I’m a regular shopper, not a wine hater nor a regular wine drinker, but I want a good bottle for a gift, or to celebrate a birthday or a holiday meal. I’m stuck in a sea of unfamiliar bottles, running late and needing to grab something quickly. I have a ‘splurge’ budget, say up to $40 (but would prefer $30-ish). How do I pick something? Probably by looking at anything priced between $30 and $40, seeing if there is a card with a score on it, and noticing if it has a nice looking label. Grab and go. Basically an enological crap shoot.

The odds are stacked against you if you are trying to find good value, high quality wines in a big grocery store.

1) Too much inventory to take it all in. And you’re already late for dinner.

2) Cases of canned junk clogging the aisles

3) No wine expert to answer questions

4) But wait! – There’s a life size cut-out of Peyton Manning selling beer. Easy squeezy. Maybe just go with that.

In thinking about this I’ve tried to come up with some strategies that might increase your odds of finding something good. So here are some thoughts, and please if you have your own strategies, share them with the rest of us.

Let’s assume that somewhere amidst the clutter is a quality wine at a value price. Look for close-outs, sometimes just a jumble of bottles in a grocery cart. Look for wines from back vintages that are between 5 and 10 years old. Avoid the well-known varietal wines – in particular Chardonnay, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. Be willing to try something different.

Instead of Chardonnay go for Pinot Gris or Sauvignon Blanc. Instead of Riesling try a dry Gewurztraminer or an Albariño. For a red check out Syrah, Grenache or Zinfandel.

Look for imports from Spain, Portugal or southern Italy. In your proposed $30+ price point you will be almost guaranteed a winner from the Mediterranean, and even a cheaper prices those a where the real values will be found.

Flâneur

I had not tasted wines from this Willamette Valley producer since the 2018 vintage was released. So when I read that a new Director of Winemaking had taken charge I was eager to revisit the brand. Anthony Sereni has been promoted from Assistant Winemaker, where he started in 2022, to directing and overseeing all winemaking operations at Flâneur, just as the winery heads into its 12^th vintage.

Flâneur calls itself “a terroir-driven winery” and has an annual production of roughly 4,000 cases. All wines are crafted from the two organically/dry farmed estate vineyards. It’s headquartered in the storybook town of Carlton, with production focused on Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, and sparkling wines. Of particular interest to me are some of the limited bottlings of Grüner Veltliner, Aligoté, Pinot Meunier and (coming soon) Gamay.

The newest releases, all from the 2022 vintage, are consistently well-made, well balanced wines, and virtually all of them, even the Gruner, will benefit from aggressive decanting or additional bottle age.

Flâneur 2022 La Belle Promenade Grüner Veltliner – This excellent GV, from an estate vineyard, strikes a perfect chord of stone fruits, barrel spice and penetrating minerality. Balanced and persistent, it’s a great start to the regime of newly-installed winemaker Anthony Sereni, who began as the winery’s Assistant Winemaker with this 2022 vintage after obtaining a Master’s in Enology and working with Chris Mazepink and Ian Burch at Archery Summit. Two thirds was fermented in neutral oak, one third in stainless. Excellent length and texture throughout. Serve this chilled. 100 cases; 12.8%; $40 (Willamette Valley) 92/100

Flâneur 2022 La Belle Promenade Chardonnay – This estate vineyard dates from 2014. Whole cluster pressed and barrel-fermented in a mix of French and Austrian oak, 43% new, this flavorful wine bursts forth with caramel apples, white peaches, a pat of butter, a dash of barrel toast and well-balanced acids. Stylistically it’s part of the welcome trend in balanced, moderately low alcohol Chardonnays. Elegant without sacrificing length or power, this lovely wine will make many an entrée sing. 160 cases; 12.9%; $60 (Chehalem Mountains) 93/100

Flâneur 2022 La Belle Promenade Pinot Meunier – Bright and perfumed with cranberries and spice, this shows the sparkling wine grape in a new light. The tannins are well-managed, allowing the fresh berry fruit to hold your attention through the finish. The winemaking mixed carbonic, whole cluster and standard fermentation to create this perfectly balanced gem. Think of it as an especially rich Gamay and you’re on the right track. I would drink this over the next two or three years. 228 cases; 12.5%; $40 (Chehalem Mountains) 92/100

Flâneur 2022 Flânerie Vineyard Pinot Noir – Light, tart and refreshing, this young wine is due for official release in September. Still bound up tightly when first opened, it shows pretty red currant and cranberry fruit with a hint of sour cherry. There’s an earthy note to the finishing tannins, and ample supporting acidity. If you value freshness and lively young fruit, drink up; otherwise give it another few years of bottle age. 190 cases; 13.2%; $60 (Ribbon Ridge) 92/100

Flâneur 2022 Rivoli Pinot Noir – A barrel select from the estate’s La Belle Promenade vineyard, this is darker, richer and deeper than the companion Flânerie Vineyard bottling. Black currant and black cherry fruit gathers at the core, with ripe, full and slightly grainy tannins framing. The aging in 45% new French oak adds highlights of toasted nuts as the wine sails along through an extended finish. Picked ripe enough to flesh out the fruit yet retain the juicy acidity, this delicious wine should bring exceptional drinking pleasure through the rest of the decade. 155 cases; 13.8%; $75 (Chehalem Mountains) 93/100

While tasting these new wines I pulled one of the winery’s earliest releases from my cellar to see how it has aged, and was delighted with it. The Flâneur 2015 X-Novo Vineyard Pinot Noir comes from one of the finest vintages of the past 12 years. At nine years old it’s in perfect drinking condition, moving into secondary fruit, and still needing extensive aeration/decanting after spending the past seven years resting in bottle. As it warmed open the fruit expanded while the silky tannins bathed it in a lush finish with baking spices and barrel toast. It’s a one wine master class in how really good Oregon Pinot Noir (this from an outstanding vineyard) can develop.

Prince Hill Vineyards

This Dundee Hills vineyard, first planted by the late Dick Erath, has been featured as a vineyard select by many of Oregon’s finest winemakers over the years. This past June the current owners, who also own California’s Silver Oak, Ovid and Twomey wineries, announced the launch of Prince Hill Vineyards as an estate wine brand. The three wines reviewed here are the first releases for this important new label.

Heads up! – On the weekend of September 14 – 15 the winery will host a free event premiering these first releases. There will be small bites and live music along with the wines. RSVP here.

Prince Hill 2022 Chardonnay – Sourced from both the Prince Hill and the Carabella vineyards, this well-crafted wine does not overreach, but deftly mixes its light citrus and stone fruits, firm acids and judicious use of new oak barrels. Some olive oil flavors trail out with the finish. It’s not necessarily a clear indication of where future releases are heading, but it’s a good start to what will be an important addition to the entire Willamette Valley portfolio. Decant it if you plan to drink it soon. 220 cases; 13.5%; $75 (Willamette Valley) 92/100

Prince Hill 2022 Pinot Noir – A mix of Prince Hill and Thoma vineyard grapes, this brings flavors of thistle, bramble, cola and peppery herbs around mountain berries and red currants. A 6% percentage was whole cluster, and it was finished in one quarter new French oak, adding a gentle hint of almond paste. It’s pleasantly light and savory, while retaining excellent balance and medium length. 13.1%; $70 (Dundee Hills) 91/100

Prince Hill 2022 Single Vineyard Pinot Noir – All estate-grown, this is supple and balanced, with purple plums and berries, a streak of savory herbs and precise, firm tannic framing. Several clones are in the blend, though no indication of vine age. There are no rough edges, but a short decanting may soften the herbal aspect and up the toasty framework. 13.1%; $95 (Dundee Hills) 92/100

A FINAL NOTE:  Any wine lover knows the work of Karen MacNeil, whose “Wine Bible” is a massively popular guide to the world’s wines. I’ve known Karen for years and had the pleasure of attending some guided tastings she’s hosted in the past. I want to draw your attention to a new project she calls “Come Over October”. Here’s how she  introduced the concept in a recent email:

KM:  “Starting last January, I was increasingly saddened and alarmed by pieces from the very media of which I’m a part. The wine news was divisive, negative, and sometimes so contradictory it was hard to make sense of it. Let me say right off the top here that I believe that people should do whatever is right for their bodies. That’s a given. But I am troubled by two issues in the way wine is now talked about and thought about.

“First, I am disappointed that the narrative around wine has increasingly devolved to a discussion solely about alcohol. To me, wine is more than alcohol. Wine is woven into an rich tapestry with Nature, spirituality, art,  cuisine, religion, and culture. And as we all know, if all you wanted was alcohol, there are cheaper and faster ways to get it than by having a glass of wine with dinner.

“Second, and most important, I believe the positive story about wine is not being told. For 9,000  years, wine has been a communal beverage – a beverage that brings people together, creates new friendships and deepens old ones. Why aren’t more people talking about that? The story of wine’s cultural and social benefits is slipping away right before our eyes.

“One spring morning, my head and heart a-jumble with all these thoughts, an idea came to me:  a nationwide campaign called ‘Come Over October’. The idea was simple. Wine drinkers across the country would invite a  friend, a colleague, a neighbor, or a family member to “come over” to a restaurant or a home or a winery or any gathering place, to share some wine.”

PG:  The program is up and running, with posters for ‘Come Over October’ now in hundreds of retail wine shops and wineries. Among the many sponsors are the Napa Valley Vintners, the Washington State Wineries Association and the Willamette Valley Wineries Association, along with others from around the world. This website will be listing events all over the country that you can take part in, and you are invited to set up your own. I will be paying close attention in the coming weeks and keeping you up to date on Northwest activities here on this Substack.

ATTENTION WINERIES:  Moderate summer weather is here and so am I. Please ship me your latest new and upcoming releases as soon as you can. Next week or the week after Labor Day would be ideal. No specific focus – read a few recent posts and you will get the drift of how I approach reviewing on this site. Ship in recyclable materials to Paul Gregutt – 230 West Street – Waitsburg, WA 99361. Send accurate and complete technical and pricing information with the wines or via email. Any questions please email me at paulgwine@me.com

Thank you!