Springtime Bubbles!

This weekend we briefly hit 70 degrees around the Northwest. Spring starts tomorrow. Time to celebrate!

What says “Hooray for Spring!” better than bubbly? Short answer:  nothing. Here’s a look at what I’ve been enjoying these past few glorious days.

I first tasted Corollary wines almost four years ago, when the first releases (the 2017 vintage wines) came out. I reviewed them for Wine Enthusiast, and gave them high marks. At the time, burdened with the task of writing hundreds of tasting notes a month, I did not have the luxury of spending much time with them. Three years later, writing about the 2018 and 2019 releases, I had a better chance to explore the wines and ask some questions of owners Jeanne Feldkamp and Dan Diephouse.

Only a handful of wineries in Oregon have debuted with a focus on Champagne method sparkling wines. Argyle was the first. Roco was another. Soter came to Oregon with a strong background in sparkling wines. But none of them make sparkling wines exclusively. A few months ago I reached out to Jeanne and Dan to get a better understanding of their purpose, progress and plans for Corollary. I’m summarizing that interview here.

Coming from a technology background, their interest in making sparkling wines developed from a consumer perspective. The first vintage for Corollary was 2017; these new releases from 2020 are their fourth. Along with contracts that feature the same vineyard sources from year to year, they’ve purchased a previously-undeveloped plot of land in the Eola-Amity Hills AVA that is destined to be the home for a tasting room and estate vineyard.

PG:  Why have you decided to embark upon making only méthode champenoise wines – probably the most difficult and time-consuming concept imaginable for a start-up?

Jeanne:  "Dan and I met in San Francisco years ago, and we used to travel up to Oregon regularly to see my family in Beaverton. We often visited wineries in the Willamette Valley and after tasting mostly Pinots and Chardonnays we found ourselves asking why a region that grew such lovely classic Champagne grapes wasn’t producing more sparkling wine. There were Argyle, Soter, and a few others, but they were hard to find. And we still didn’t see how to scale a sparkling winery beyond a boutique project."

PG:  A visit to Radiant changed all that?

JF:  "We met Andrew Davis, who had just started Radiant Sparkling Wine Company, and at that point we saw how to make Corollary work from a business perspective. So we started to get serious about building out our plan to make it happen. Making exclusively traditional method sparkling is indeed difficult and time consuming, but that’s exactly what attracts us to it. We call Corollary our 50-year project because it’s the thing we felt was worthy of working on for the next 50 years of our lives."

PG:  I was struck by your creative approach, already obvious in these first few vintages. Excellent vineyard sources, intriguing blends, a carbonic rosé and single vineyard/single grape offerings.

JF:  "We have added a few new fruit sources over the years to grow our program. We began receiving Winter’s Hill Chardonnay in 2021. We purchased Pinot Meunier from Anne Amie’s Twelve Oaks property in 2021 and 2022. And we added three new sites in 2023 – Ninebark (Pinot Meunier), Ten Peaks (Pinot Noir), and Trovato (Chardonnay and Pinot Meunier). We enjoy developing long-term relationships with our growers and taking a collaborative approach to building our knowledge about farming for sparkling.”

PG:  What's the progress with the vineyard land you purchased recently?

JF:  “Yes, in 2022, we acquired 57 acres of land in the Eola-Amity Hills AVA. Cattrall Brothers, where we’ve been sourcing fruit since our first vintage in 2017, is just down the street. So we’ve got experience working in the area and have found it to be excellent for bubbles. We are developing Oregon’s first privately-owned property dedicated exclusively to sparkling wines. Corollary's early years have been about exploration – about understanding, in broad strokes, the relationships between site selection, farming choices, winemaking practices, and the finished wines. Now, with our own vineyard, we’re thrilled to take the next step in our journey: creating an integrated, regenerative agricultural system completely focused on farming for bubbles.”

"Everything we’re doing at the property is designed from the ground up with sparkling in mind. All the things we’ve learned over these last seven years in the valley are informing our choices about vineyard design, rootstock and clone selections, water management, regenerative practices, and even guest experience. Our first phase of plantings includes Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Pinot Meunier and some Pinot Blanc."

PG:  How are you designing your vineyard specifically for sparkling wine?

JF:  "Clonal selections are a good example of how we’re designing specifically for sparkling. For example, we’ve eschewed Dijon clone Pinot Noir as it generally ripens too quickly, leading to low acid and more cloying wines. Instead, we’re planting more 'heritage' clones such as Wädenswil, Upright, Mount Eden and Mariafeld. We’ve found that these reach a better balance of acid and fruit in our climate for bubbles.”

”We also have a few blocks which will be field blends, inspired by the mixed-clone blocks we source at X-Omni and Momtazi. We’re experimenting with different clones we’re bringing up from Foundation Plant Services in California that were originally brought into the US by various Champagne houses. We’re excited to experiment with these and see how they do in Oregon."

PG:  It's obvious from Jeanne's thoughtful comments that the commitment is there to do whatever it takes to build a stellar brand. My tasting notes will offer further insight into the quality already achieved. Please note that I’m re-posting my notes on the 2018s and 2019s as well as the newer 2020 releases as many recent subscribers did not see the earlier post. I have not re-tasted the 2018s and 2019s – these are the original reviews. Purchase all Corollary wines here.

Corollary 2020 Cuvée One Brut – The blend changes year to year; in 2020 it’s 60% Chardonnay, 22% Pinot Blanc and 18% Pinot Noir. Recently disgorged and just now being released, this glows a deep gold and is loaded with fresh, clean apple fruit. Good depth and concentration. Highlights of orange blossom, lemon zest and flinty minerality suggest much more development lies ahead. Delicious already, this can cellar well for a decade or longer. 242 cases; 12.5%; $45 (Willamette Valley) 93/100

Corollary 2019 Cuvée One Extra Brut – From a dedicated sparkling wine-only producer, this blend is two thirds Chardonnay, one quarter Pinot Noir and the rest Pinot Blanc. The contributing vineyards are an all-star crew including X-Omni, Cattrall Brothers and Winter's Hill. This wine does not shy away from showing its fruit, a mix of pear, peach and melon, nicely blended and supported with ample acidity. The separate base wines were left on the lees for nine months prior to blending for secondary fermentation. It's a bold, fruity wine with a long, clean, tart and immaculately fresh finish. 191 cases; 12.5%; $45 (Willamette Valley) 92/100

Corollary 2020 Cuvée One Rosé Extra Brut – Separate base wines were made from each of five different lots. The Pinot Noir (70%) came from Cattrall Brothers, Momtazi and Lonesome Rock; the Chardonnay (15%) from Namaste and the Pinot Blanc (15%) from Winter’s Hill. A rich copper color, this is scented with wild strawberries, white raspberries and a hint of toasted hazelnuts, and those flavors carry on through. The frosted glass is an especially attractive package. The persistence and mineral-tinged freshness further enhance this standout effort. 161 cases; 12.6%; $55 (Willamette Valley) 93/100

Corollary 2019 Cuvée One Rosé Extra Brut – This is a pretty copper-colored wine presented in a frosted glass bottle. The blend is 55% Pinot Noir, 30% Chardonnay and 15% Pinot Gris. It's fruit-driven, with a burst of cranberry sauce and cherry candy in the center. The crisp acids frame the fruit with citrus rind, adding a touch of mineral along the way. The finish extends gracefully with no off notes. 161 cases; 12.6%; $55 (Willamette Valley) 92/100

Corollary 2020 Momtazi Vineyard Extra Brut Rosé – This 100% Pinot Noir rosé is done via carbonic maceration. It’s exciting to taste a sparkling wine from this highly esteemed biodynamic vineyard. Hints of fresh herbs, pepper and caraway seed adorn the tart cherry fruit. Clean and classy, this gathers focus and concentration in the back palate, adding pomegranate, tangerine and sour cherry highlights. 68 cases; 12.5%; $65 (McMinnville) 93/100

Corollary 2019 Momtazi Vineyard Extra Brut Carbonic Rosé – Calling this a "carbonic" rosé, the winery notes that the Pinot Noir clusters were left to ferment naturally for nine days prior to being foot-crushed. That plus the vineyard's biodynamic viticulture adds subtle grace notes to the flavors, hints of herb and earth and underbrush. The fruit brings a blend of orange, tangerine and pink grapefruit, highlighted with tart acids. 94 cases; 12.1%; $65 (McMinnville) 93/100

Corollary 2019 Winter's Hill Vineyard Pinot Blanc Sparkling Wine – Pure varietal and fermented in neutral oak, this shows a touch of toast around the bright, tangy citrus and apple fruit. There’s also a hint of vanilla tea, and much as I loved the 2018, this is even better. Full-bodied and fruited with crisp apple and lime, this finishes with a clean rinse of wet stone. A lovely bottle all the way. 73 cases; 12.5%; $60 (Dundee Hills) 93/100

Corollary 2018 Winter's Hill Vineyard Pinot Blanc Sparkling Wine – This single vineyard, single grape expression puts forward a strong case for making méthode champenoise wines from this rarely used – though allowed in true Champagne – variety. Tart, bracing and bursting with citrus fruit, this is a lip-smacking style which clearly puts a new world shine on an old world wine. 65 cases; 11.4%; $60 (Dundee Hills) 92/100

Corollary 2019 Namaste Vineyard Blanc de Blancs – Delightfully aromatic, with inviting scents of orange blossom and lemon zest, this sassy, snappy wine is all Chardonnay – the oldest vines in this new-ish AVA. Lovely grip, bead and persistence set this young sparkling wine at the top of its peer group. It’s a classy, classic Blanc de Blancs, and a showcase for the character and quality of the best Oregon efforts. 81 cases; 12.5%; $60 (Van Duzer Corridor) 94/100

Corollary 2018 Namaste Vineyard Brut – Three quarters old vine Chardonnay, one quarter old vine Pinot Noir, this distinctive wine has a black pepper note that rings across the palate. It's precise, deep and racy, with touches of candied pineapple, ginger and Meyer lemon. The length and intensity are of particular note, and this very young wine is the one to cellar for a decade or more. 81 cases; 11.4%; $60 (Van Duzer Corridor) 93/100

Corollary 2019 X-Omni Vineyard Blanc de Blancs – X-Omni is arguably the iconic Chardonnay vineyard in the AVA. Impacted by the high elevation, Van Duzer Corridor winds, and volcanic soils, these grapes seem destined for sparkling wine of the highest caliber. Fine bubbles, a pretty lemon color, and lush flavors of lemon meringue catch the attention immediately. Let the wine sift down through your palate and you’ll find the length, depth, texture and persistence of world-class fizz. I’ll let you find the right descriptors on this one – I’m just going to drink it. 103 cases; 12.5%; $75 (Eola-Amity Hills) 95/100

Corollary 2018 X-Omni Vineyard Blanc de Blancs – From a top vineyard in this Chardonnay-centric AVA, this exceptional all-Chardonnay bubbly deserves the center ring in the Corollary portfolio. I love the purity, the power and the precision of this wine. Fermented in neutral oak, left on the lees for six months, then re-fermented en tirage for three and a half years, this expressive wine is as close the Champagne as you can find in Oregon. Pay attention to the finish, which lingers and keeps adding nuances and details all the way through. 96 cases; 11.4%; $60 (Eola-Amity Hills) 94/100

More well-made springtime sparklers…

Argyle 2018 Spirit Hill Vineyard Blanc de Blancs – This estate vineyard is Argyle’s coolest site and at an elevation over 700 feet. From one of Oregon’s finest vintages of the past decade, it seems a perfect match of site and vintage. Fresh and mineral-drenched, this pure Chardonnay shows lemon zest and other citrus, along with green apple skin and flesh. Exceptionally clean and refreshing. 450 cases; 12.5%; $60 (Eola-Amity Hills) 92/100

Argyle 2019 Spirit Hill Vineyard Blanc de Noirs – With 15% Pinot Meunier along with the Pinot Noir, this is a peppery wine with a firm foundation. It feels a bit hard and unyielding at the moment, with a core of wet stone and suggestions of grapefruit. 600 cases; 12.5%; $60 (Eola-Amity Hills) 91/100

Efesté 2020 Angie Blanc de Blancs – This is all Chardonnay, given a bit more dosage than the previous (first) edition. It’s got a peppery note, with a classic, dry, almost dusty palate. Not too fruity, it’s elegant and detailed, with palate-pleasing minerality. This is a sophisticated méthode chempenoise wine, one of the finest I’ve yet tasted from Washington. 13%; $50 (Lake Chelan) 93/100

St. Innocent 2018 Blanc de Blancs – This Chardonnay is sourced from Freedom Hill vineyard. It has a comforting toasty character, taking the Chardonnay out of the effusively fruity side and into something closer to true Champagne. That said the 2018 grapes were ripe and delicious, so it has plenty of fruit power down the middle. It finishes with a little funky note, but nothing that detracts from the overall enjoyment. 121 cases; 12.5%; $70 (Willamette Valley) 91/100

Heads Up:  Malbec in the City

Malbec in the City is the first Malbec event of its kind in the United States, bringing together Malbec producers with grapes grown in Oregon. The second annual event will be held on Saturday, April 20th from noon to 5pm at Castaway Portland (1900 Northwest 18th Ave). Proceeds will benefit Our Legacy Harvested, a nonprofit empowering the BIPOC community in the wine industry. Tickets are likely to sell fast so don’t wait. I will do a posted tasting of some of the Malbecs being poured about a week before the event. Get your tickets now!

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