Spelunking With Chris Figgins At His Spectacular New Winery

Plus: new releases from FIGGINS, Leonetti Cellar, L’Ecole No 41 and Lemelson

My debut as a wine writer for a major publication came almost four decades ago, when Harvey Steiman called me to ask if I’d be interested in doing a story for the Wine Spectator. He wanted me to investigate a virtually unknown winery from an even less well-known wine region. The winery was Leonetti Cellar, founded in 1977, whose early releases had been getting attention from savvy members of the wine trade. An excellent Leonetti timeline is on their website.

I’d never been to Walla Walla, and on that occasion I found that there were just four wineries (and one about to make its debut) in the newly-minted AVA. I met with winemaker Gary Figgins at his modest rambler, toured the shed where the Leonetti wines were being made, and learned that his dream – I should say his goal – was to quit his job as a machinist and make wine full time.

Back then there were only about 70 wineries in the entire state, and many of them are long gone. But Leonetti has moved from strength to strength, and now anchors a portfolio of Figgins Family wines under the direction of son Chris and his sister Amy. Through the decades potential vineyard land has been purchased and developed, often in previously little-explored sub-regions of the wider Walla Walla Valley AVA. The original Figgins home site has expanded to include extensive vineyards, offices and a well-equipped, photo-perfect winery.

In 2008 Chris began making wines for his own brand – FIGGINS (the preferred spelling is all caps). The first release was in 2011. In recent months he completed and opened a stunning winery and tasting room on a steep hillside in the foothills of the Blue Mountains, with extensive underground wine caves drilled straight into the basalt bedrock. I’d visited the site while it was under construction, but last month had an opportunity to spend a few hours with Chris touring the completed project. Click here to see photos of the cave construction.

PG: What prompted you to take on this highly ambitious cave construction?

CF: “From the beginning, my goal has been to have the FIGGINS winery on site in the vineyard to complete the circle of this single vineyard project. In my wine travels, I've always been awed by various wine caves throughout Europe and the U.S. and realized the inherent benefits – perfect, steady low temperature, moderately high humidity, and all of this passive with no energy costs for heating or cooling.”

PG: This interest in construction is not only in your past, it’s in your genes, given your dad was a gifted mechanical engineer.

CF: “I started in college down an architecture and engineering route before falling in love with wine and changing my focus. As I started designing the winery I very much wanted to make the facility in and of the earth, not upon the earth. That, combined with my desire to minimize visual impacts, my love of subtlety, and wanting to minimize impacts to planted vineyard acreage, led me to the design. My late friend and architect Alex Demambro helped me bring this vision to light.”

PG: How did you and Alex map this out?

CF: “There was a tremendous amount of planning that went into it. We took core samples from throughout the site to know density of rock we would be drilling through and to allow the engineers to design proper support. Except for a couple sections that we nearly had to blast, the rock was consistent and what we expected. Some of the biggest challenges were in the interfaces between the various engineers’ preview; for instance, besides the civil engineer, there was a cave engineer, the attached winery structural engineer, a tilt-up panel engineer, etc. All of their scopes had to jive with each other. The overall project is 15,000 square feet with the caves comprising 7,000 of that.”

PG: I know that Figgins Family wineries do a few limited public events. What are your plans for welcoming visitors to this new winery?

CF: “The winery is available for tastings by appointment Thurs-Sun for a guided flight of both FIGGINS and my Toil Oregon wines. A special cave tasting is also available. I feel very fortunate to be able to share our efforts with people in a place I feel offers some of the prettiest views in the Valley.”

PG: It certainly does. Thank you Chris, and congratulations on pulling off such an ambitious project.

Although I had reviewed and written about Leonetti and FIGGINS wines for many years in the past, there was a significant gap between my last ‘official’ tasting notes and my impressions of their current releases. On the Leonetti website are profiles of the five vineyards that supply grapes for those wines. The familiar lineup of Sangiovese, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and a Reserve has added an impressive Aglianico and a very limited single vineyard series (not tasted).

The Week’s Reviews

FIGGINS

FIGGINS 2022 Figlia Red – This is the winery’s Merlot-based red, with an undisclosed percentage of Petit Verdot stiffening up the blend. It’s a silky, sensuous wine, with purple fruits, a smooth entry and a long, lush finish. Aged 22 months in just 11% new oak, it leans smartly into the perfect fruit, perfect balance and exceptional length, offering immediate pleasure. Looking out long term I’d put the optimal drinking throughout the 2030s. Classy winemaking start to finish. 1603 cases; 14.3%; $55; (Walla Walla Valley) 95/100

FIGGINS 2022 Figgins Estate Red – This is Cabernet dominant, with undisclosed percentages of Merlot and Petit Verdot completing the blend. Dark and muscular, wound up tight, at this stage (pre-release) it’s almost impenetrable when first poured. The differentiation between this wine and the Figlia is starkly apparent. The density apparent here responds to time and aeration and will begin to unpack the dense flavors. After many hours a firm base of cassis, black cherry and ripe, polished tannins emerges. There are notes of coffee grounds, tobacco and dried Italian herbs. Clearly a wine built for long term aging, with structure, depth, balance and detail all built in. 1782 cases; 14.3%; $95; (Walla Walla Valley) 97/100

There is also a limited 100% Cabernet Sauvignon reserve called The Caves that was released for the first time last fall. (Sold out and not tasted).

Leonetti Cellar

Leonetti Cellar 2019 Aglianico – This estate-grown Aglianico honors the Leonetti family’s Calabrian roots. The first vintage was 2013; 2019 is the current release. From the high elevation Serra Pedace vineyard, this spent 44 months in terracotta amphorae, a nod perhaps to southern Italy’s ancient winemaking methods. There’s a certain rusticity about this wine, a dark and tannic red that initially calls to mind Tannat. It has similar power and strength, showcased here with the fermentation in clay underscoring blackberry fruit along with seams of black tea, tar and graphite. The wine smoothed out and showed wonderfully on the second day, and just as good on the third day, evidence that the winery’s “drink now through 2044” note is spot on. 490 cases; 14.8%; $100 (Walla Walla Valley) 94/100

Leonetti Cellar 2022 Sangiovese – Earlier vintages of this wine were co-fermented with Syrah, but no longer is that extra boost needed. The aromatics weave a complex and rich tapestry of berries, tobacco and chocolate. The wine is poised and beautifully balanced, with a long, layered finish that seems ready for an Italian-style mixed grill. Red currant, peppery Italian herbs and hints of tomato paste, dried tea leaves and more trail out invitingly. 1052 cases, 14.2%; $85 (Walla Walla Valley) 94/100

Leonetti Cellar 2023 Merlot – The aromatics on all these Leonetti wines are markedly more complex, layered and detailed than I recall from my last tasting a decade ago. The abv numbers are consistent with past vintages but the current lineup includes more pure varietal expressions (this wine, the Sangiovese and and Aglianico) where there used to be blends. This is a captivating, elegant wine, which shows subtlety and power in equal measure. It still gets released a year ahead of the rest of the portfolio. What I love here is the way the details keep zooming in… crushed raspberries, pumice, Earl Grey tea, a touch of tobacco. The aromatics are stunningly good, and the wine, remarkably, is even better on the second day. 1922 cases, 14.4%; $90 (Walla Walla Valley) 98/100

Leonetti Cellar 2022 Cabernet Sauvignon – Six percent Malbec is blended in. Again the aromatics and details immediately stand out, showing texture, density and finesse. Ripe black cherry and cassis fruit, firm acids and well-managed tannins take hold as it flows through a toothsome finish. Finishing highlights include black tea, charcoal, graphite, coffee grounds, caramel and bakers’ chocolate. It gives you more and more enjoyment the more you let it breathe. Smoother still on the second day, this is a supple, engaging wine with a couple of decades of life ahead. 2989 cases, 14.4%; $120 (Walla Walla Valley) 97/100

Leonetti Cellar 2022 Reserve Red Wine – This reserve is three quarters Cabernet Sauvignon, 19% Malbec and 6% Petit Verdot. A well thought out blend, it’s perfectly on point, delivering a reserve with multiple layers. Black cherries, red currant and dried Italian herbs with a dash of pepper. Trailing accents bring espresso and graphite, more dried herbs and straw. At first a bit tight, it immediately shows the power and grace for long term aging. Let it open and more subtle highlights emerge – chamomile tea, lacy vanilla, black licorice, tar and sassafras. Keep digging and this wine keeps giving. A cellar wine that can easily hit mid-century. 1061 cases, 14.4%; $165 (Walla Walla Valley) 98/100

L’Ecole No 41

This was another winery I visited on that first trip to Walla Walla, having made its debut with a robust and well-received 1983 Merlot. Now in its fifth decade, it is another testament to the quality and resilience of the region’s founding wineries.

L'Ecole 2024 Frenchtown Sauvignon Blanc – Steely and electric, this includes fruit from a half dozen vineyards scattered across the length and breadth of the vast Columbia valley. The blend includes 6% Semillon – not a lot, but enough to tame the herbaceousness a bit and add a touch of linalool. Spicy, sharp and showing a crystalline edge, this has appealing presence and style. 2625 cases; 13.5%; $24 (Columbia Valley) 92/100

L'Ecole 2024 Old Vines Chenin Blanc – As some of you know I have a soft spot for old vine Chenin, and for a short while L’Ecole shared some of their grapes with me for my Waitsburg Cellars old vine Cheninières. Sourced from three 1979-era vineyards, L’Ecole’s ongoing commitment to old vine Chenin quite likely prevented these rare vines from suffering neglect, replanting, or worst of all, having overcropped fruit dumped into generic white blends. Enjoy this wine as long as it’s still made. It’s dry as straw, dusty, flecked with pollen and framed with citrus rind. Surprisingly deep and long on the palate, this can be cellared for a decade or longer. 4040 cases; 13.5%; $20 (Yakima Valley) 93/100

From The Cellar

Waitsburg Cellars 2015 Cheninières Old Vine Chenin Blanc – Waitsburg Cellars wines were screwcapped, which has been a factor in their longevity. But having tasted very old Chenins in the Loire Valley I’m convinced that the grape itself brings ageability when it’s from old vines (at least 30 years in the ground), cropped right and carefully tended. This wine was principally sourced from the Upland vineyard on Snipes Mountain, same as the L’Ecole. At 10 years old it has retained its freshness, rounded out and fleshed out with a lovely mix of citrus and tropical fruits. Excellent depth and detail (thank you Ron Bunnell, who made the wine for me), with a long, textured finish. These wines sold for around $18 - $20 on release. This was the last vintage and was never previously reviewed.

L'Ecole 2024 Alder Ridge Vineyard Grenache Rosé – Pale copper, 100% Grenache and wonderfully aromatic with spices and rose petals, this engaging rosé gains weight and depth as it cloaks the palate. A luscious mix of sandalwood, toasted almonds, crisp apples, ripe watermelon and a hint of cantaloup, it shows more complexity than most, and has the stuffing to accompany a host of picnic dishes, from chicken salad to deviled eggs. 900 cases; 13.5%; $20 (Horse Heaven Hills) 93/100

L'Ecole 2023 Frenchtown Red – A new (to me) cuvée from L’Ecole, this kitchen sink blend is 85% Bordeaux grapes and 15% Rhone. A mix of red and black berries are broadly displayed, making this a forward, drink-soon red with enough stuffing for your burger or pizza night. Good balance and medium ripeness. With so many grapes in the mix nothing stands apart, but it all works to make a highly drinkable, enjoyable, every day red. 7000 cases; 14.5%; $24 (Columbia Valley) 90/100

L'Ecole 2022 Columbia Valley Merlot – Deep, dark and delicious, this well-crafted wine includes 15% Cab Franc and splashes of Petit Verdot and Malbec. This is the sort of ballsy, muscular Merlot that helped put some of the first Walla Walla wineries on the map. There’s a dense core of cassis and black cherries, followed up with grainy tannins that add flavors of espresso and black licorice on through the finish. Another exceptional value from L’Ecole. 5500 cases; 14.5%; $29 (Columbia Valley) 93/100

L'Ecole 2022 Estate Grown Merlot – This is a 50/50 split between the Ferguson and Seven Hills estate vineyards. Aromatically inviting with a floral top note, crushed strawberries, fresh-picked raspberries and peppery herbs. The complexity in the nose sneaks up on you in the mouth, needing some aeration and attention to be fully expressed. In other words, this isn’t a wine that instantly blows you away; but the details are impressive – dried flowers, cannabis, coffee and a dash of fresh cream. 1165 cases; 14.5%; $42 (Walla Walla Valley) 94/100

L'Ecole 2022 Columbia Valley Cabernet Sauvignon – A dozen vineyards contribute fruit, which puts a lot of miles on somebody’s truck. It’s a clean, balanced, middle-of-the road Cabernet, though lacking the precision that comes from either a single vineyard or a single small AVA. Let’s call it a good, textbook rendition of a classic Washington style – firm, dark, annotated with espresso, licorice and toasted walnuts. 6800 cases; 14.5%; $35 (Columbia Valley) 92/100

From The Cellar

L'Ecole 2019 Walla Walla Valley Cabernet Sauvignon – Drinking exceptionally well at the moment, this has plush flavors of raspberry pie, blue plum, dried figs and a touch of savory herbs. It’s smoothed out and seamless, with a long, balanced finish. 2075 cases; 14.5% (Walla Walla Valley)

L'Ecole 2022 Estate Grown Cabernet Franc-Merlot – This is a 50/50 blend from the estate’s Seven Hills and Ferguson vineyards. It brings the best of both into play – minerality from the Ferguson, broadly flavorful berry fruit from Seven Hills. There are ample tannins, ripe and just now starting to smooth out, with trailing flavors of pencil lead annotated with caramel and coffee grounds. Aged 22 months in 30% new barrels. That’s a lot of care and quality fruit given to a mid-priced red. 495 cases; 14.5%; $45 (Walla Walla Valley) 94/100

L'Ecole 2022 Columbia Valley Syrah – A half dozen vineyards contribute to this blended Syrah, which includes 18% Grenache and 4% Mourvèdre. It’d clean and focused, with blackberry and black cherry fruit, coffee grounds, fresh turned soil and firm tannins. It gains concentration through the finish, ending on a highlight of bright fruit, toast and coffee. 2750 cases; 14.5%; $27 (Columbia Valley) 92/100

L'Ecole 2022 Seven Hills Vineyard Estate Grown Syrah – If Walla Walla were to claim a signature grape it should surely be Syrah, and not only for the stunningly good versions coming from the Rocks District. Seven Hills is perched above that AVA, with different soils. But it captures the essence of pure varietal Syrah; the dark berries, the meaty highlights, the coffee flavors that come from grape as well as barrel. A broad display of those flavors fans out and fades out gracefully through the palate. 1240 cases; 14.5%; $42 (Walla Walla Valley) 93/100

Lemelson Vineyards

Lemelson 2024 Meyer Vineyard Dry Riesling – Certain dry Rieslings hit a bullseye balance between fruit and acid, and this is one. Aromatic with lemon blossoms and pulp, glassy on the palate with a nice mix of barrel-fermented and stainless-fermented components, it was aged six months on the lees for added texture. The result is a rich, vibrant, bright and polished Riesling, dry but deliciously fruity with palate-cleansing tartness. Mineral flavors abound, and the juicy, textured mouthfeel continues on through the crisp, clean and racy finish. 515 cases; 12.5%; $38 (Dundee Hills) 94/100

Lemelson 2023 Chardonnay – This young wine is tight, spicy and focused, with deep pineapple fruit flavors and a penetrating streak of wintergreen. After extended aeration the wine starts to breathe open and shows some pleasing toasty highlights from barrel fermentation. Principally sourced from the Johnson vineyard in the Yamhill-Carlton AVA, with 20% from Chestnut Hill in the Chehalem Mountains AVA. 525 cases; 13.3%; $40 (Willamette Valley) 92/100

Lemelson 2022 Meyer Vineyard Pinot Noir – Smooth and showing a swath of milk chocolate, this pleasant wine seems a bit constrained for a Dundee Hills Pinot. Rhubarb and red currant, white raspberries and some wild herbs are in play, though the wine seems to lose focus as it trails out. 523 cases; 13.4%; $62 (Dundee Hills) 90/100

Lemelson 2022 Thea’s Selection Pinot Noir – This multi-vineyard, three AVA blend is a supple, front-loaded, flavorful wine, bursting open with scents and flavors of crushed raspberries, plums and Bing cherry fruit. Details flow on – toasted almonds, graham cracker and breakfast tea – gliding through the finish. Balanced and complete, it’s already in prime drinking condition. One quarter saw new French oak. 9554 cases; 13.3%; $40 (Willamette Valley) 92/100

Lemelson 2022 Jerome Reserve Pinot Noir – A barrel selection from estate vineyards, the Jerome coalesces into a firm, tannic, steely wine layered with raspberry and cherry fruit annotated with cut tobacco and hints of shaved coconut. It feels a bit tight and missing something in the middle. More bottle age may fill that in over time. This will be released in October. I’d hold it for another two years post-release. 510 cases; 13.3%; $75 (Willamette Valley) 92/100

Lemelson 2022 Stermer Vineyard Pinot Noir – Wadenswil and Pommard clones are in the mix; just the Pommard component was aged in new barrels. At 25 years old the grapes from this estate vineyard bring texture to the finished wine. There are layers of blue and black fruits, lightly savory highlights and finishing streaks of licorice and espresso. It’s got the structure and detail to age well over the next 10 - 15 years. This too will be released in October. 522 cases; 14.1%; $62 (Yamhill-Carlton) 93/100

A word about sulfites

From time to time a product comes along that claims to do something that will make your wine better. I’ve got a small collection of things that have come and gone over the years – a $500 wand that you were supposed to stir to improve the flavor; a magnetic ring that fits around the neck of the bottle; a turkey baster that you squeeze to inject air into the wine glass; and various types of aerators that basically ran the wine through a blender. None of these things make wines better, but they keep on coming, as if wines are inherently in need of fixing.

A short while ago an email arrived with a pitch for a brand purporting to be a maker of the world’s leading wine purifiers, “helping wine lovers enjoy their favorite pours the way they were meant to be – free from sulfites and artificial preservatives.”

I was intrigued by the claim that wines somehow needed to be purified of artificial preservatives and took a look at the product’s website. It turns out that what it does (or claims to do) is remove sulfites from wines. Quoting from the website,

“As the first wine purifier on the market, we’ve set the standard for what wine should taste – and how it should feel the next day… restoring wine to its natural, pure state.”

Setting the standard for what wine should taste, and how it should feel the next day, is about as inscrutable a product claim as I’ve ever encountered. And according to everything I’ve read, wine in its natural, pure state has self-generated sulfites. What a wine tastes like after being “purified”, and whether or not this product actually can remove sulfites, are open questions. But apparently the old reliable sulfite bugaboo still has some traction. So here’s what you can take to the bank re: sulfites.

Sulfites occur naturally in wine and many other products. They may or may not be added as preservatives. The addition of sulfites during fermentation and bottling is a proven technique for protecting wine from premature oxidation and bacterial spoilage. These days most wineries keep such additions to a minimum, and for the one percent of the population with a significant allergy to sulfites, there are wines labeled “no sulfites added” which means exactly what it says – none were added. These NSA wines tend to have very short shelf lives and can quickly develop off flavors. And yes, they still have some naturally occurring sulfites present, just none added.

A related problem is premox – premature oxidation. This may occur in white wines that prematurely develop oxidized characteristics, turning dark and even undrinkable well before their expected lifespan. This became all too common with with white Burgundy wines in the late 1990s and early 2000s. I had some rather expensive bottles fall apart within just a few years, and have since stopped cellaring white Burgundies. It seems to me that Chardonnays are often the culprits, and I’ve begun opening older Chards from time to time just to see if I can determine whether the premox problem continues and affects domestic wines also. More on that to come.

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