Snacking On The News
Plus: new releases from Folly of Man, Passing Time, Tenor & Trisaetum
These hot summer afternoons – often hitting the triple digits here in Waitsburg (yes but it’s dry heat!) – bring on a sort of pleasant lethargy. My mornings are for writing, exercise and gardening, followed by lunch with the dog. After that… too hot to be out, too early for wine tasting, not much energy for guitar. So I go bushwhacking through the internet, guided by subscriptions to various websites, Substacks, social media and YouTube. In the spirit of the season I’ve collected a few gems from recent days. I have not changed any content or meaning, but I have pulled short excerpts from longer essays.
From ‘The Ick’ on Substack, a lesson in misophonia
“Science has been slow to understand misophonia. It took over 20 years for researchers to arrive at a consensus definition of the condition. Formally, it is now described as “a disorder of decreased tolerance to specific sounds or their associated stimuli, or cues. These cues, known as ‘triggers,’ are experienced as unpleasant or distressing and tend to evoke strong negative emotional, physiological, and behavioral responses not seen in most other people.”
The definition is intentionally vague so as to be inclusive. Partly that’s because triggers vary widely. Chewing sounds are canonical. In one study, 83% of people who identified as having misophonia reported chewing sounds as their earliest trigger. This sometimes gets further broken down into subcategories: crunching, lip-smacking, teeth-sucking, slurping. Others are more bothered by nasal sounds, or breathing, or throat clearing.”
PG: Misophonia sounds like a long lost album from the Who. But aside from that I don’t suppose there are too many folks in the wine trade who are triggered by the sound of lip-smacking, teeth-sucking or slurping.
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From The NY Times - “Seen It All Before”
“Everyone seems to be rewatching the prestige shows of the early 21st century lately. Why rewatch a show when we have so little time on earth? Why watch something you’ve already seen when there’s nowhere near enough time to make it through all the queues and wish lists and playlists and recommendations dashed down in the Notes app? There’s the quality factor: I’m not taking a risk on a flashy new show that could turn out to be a total snooze when I already know something older is good. Rewatching demands a different type of attention than a first watch does. You know what’s going to happen, so you don’t have to make sure you’re clocking each turn of the story. You can focus on the stuff that might have escaped you on first viewing — the sets, the actors’ tiniest gestures. Rewatching is its own cultural activity, not necessarily inferior or redundant. If it’s pleasurable, soothing, enlightening — there’s really no need to judge the practice any further.”
PG: Substitute re-tasting for rewatching and this applies quite well to sticking with well known wines that you already know are going to be great.
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PG: For my geology professor friends – keep on rockin’ in the free world!
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Writing in Far Out magazine Tom Phelan investigates the worst song ever to go platinum. After eliminating novelty songs, corporate dance-rock and obvious “pop atrocities” from consideration, Phelan lands on a song from 4 Non Blondes.
“Having slogged it around the San Francisco live circuit since the late 1980s, budding songwriter Linda Perry managed to ride the flannel-shirt neo-hippy wave that washed across the American charts in the early 1990s and attract the attention of hotshot label boss Jimmy Iovine and his newly formed Interscope Records to sign her 4 Non Blondes band. Dropping their sole album in October 1992, Bigger, Better, Faster, More! would worm its way into the rock underground with a deeply grating mulch of funk bass dirge, wincingly earnest vocals, and grunge-lite guitar limp that should have been heading for the bargain bin where it not for the record’s second single.
Dropped five months later, ‘What’s Up?’ stands 4 Non Blondes in permanent infamy, a caterwauling shriek of tantrumy existentialism that breaks the listener out in a panic of sweats and rising blood pressure. Triggering a nightmare of weepy karaoke or sour wedding discos, Perry’s strangled yodel and derivative grunge slurry irritates to no end, as if her tie-died sleeved arm reaches out the speakers and forces her teen diary lyricism firmly into your face until you develop bruises and welts. It’s punishing, and prayers for its end begin before it’s even half over.”
PG: How can a song that bad inspire writing so good? If only comparably wretched wines could do the same…
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From Guitar World – a look at a guitar made from a hubcap!
Singer-guitarist Mikei Gray (the Frst) on his self-made hubcap guitar, fashioned from a 1950s Buick hubcap. “People think it’s a banjo or a toy, and they’re stunned when they hear it,” he says. “I put a Slash humbucker and some SG electronics in it, and let me tell you, it rips!”
PG: I once had a guitar custom made for me from a vintage whiskey crate. Sadly, it didn’t rip. But here, if Mikei can be believed, the proof is in the sound the guitar produces, whatever it’s made of. The same could be said of wine in boxes, cans and paper bottles – how does it taste? No matter that it’s not in standard packaging.
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Tom Wark’s ‘Fermentation’ Substack is a must-read for me. Exploring the future of wine writing under AI he tasked his AI ‘Co-Pilot’ with crafting reviews of a 2022 Caymus Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon in the style of various authors – Robert Parker, Jancis Robinson, Wark himself and… wait for it... Dr. Seuss!
“In Napa they bottled a wine bold and bright,
With berries and cocoa and oak wrapped up tight.
It’s Caymus! It’s famous! It’s plush and it’s grand,
With tannins so smooth you’ll clap with both hands.
It smells like a forest, like spice and like cheer,
With cassis and plum and a hint of root beer.
It’s rich on the tongue, like a velvet parade,
With chocolate and cherries and structure well-laid.
It’s perfect with steak or a mushroomy stew,
Or sipped by the fire with nothing to do.
So raise up your glass, give a toast and a grin—
For Caymus has crafted a cab full of win!”
PG: Gotta admit there’s some good stuff in here… rhyming Caymus with famous, ‘rich on the tongue like a velvet parade’… I’m not sure I like ‘a cab full of win’ but no botty hits a home run every time, right?
An impressive debut from this new producer. Founders Tracy and Aaron Kendall boast excellent credentials. Tracy spent three years as an enologist at Adelsheim Vineyard, another ten as Associate Winemaker at Nicolas-Jay, where she collaborated with winemaker Jean-Nicolas Méo of Domaine Méo-Camuzet. Aaron spent time at Adelsheim but is perhaps best known for his work alongside Mike Etzel at Beaux Frères.
The estate vineyard includes 16 acres of vines farmed using regenerative, organic, and biodynamic practices. The first vines were planted in 1997, a combination of classic and lesser-known Pinot Noir clones such as the Swan clone, a California heritage variety.
Folly of Man 2023 Colleen Chardonnay – Sappy, silky and sexy, this tasty bottle charms from the start. It’s lightly aromatic with touches of lemony herbs, citrus rind and sea breeze, gains traction on the palate with a juicy burst of citrus, gooseberry and green melon fruit. The acids are in perfect proportion, keeping the palate fresh and lively through a lengthening finish. Grapes were sourced from the Pearlstead and deLancelotti vineyards. Still drinking nicely on day three. 50 cases; 13.1%; $75 (Willamette Valley) 94/100
Folly of Man 2023 Momtazi Pinot Noir – Momtazi is one of the largest biodynamic vineyards in Oregon, and the fruit is featured in many vineyard designates. It’s a pleasure to see what Tracy and Aaron Kendall, the talented owners of Folly of Man, do with this challenging fruit. This wine keeps the density and complexity of grapes grown with biodynamic practices, but cuts down the herbaceous wildness and feral funk of some wines. There’s a generous streak of citrus, bringing fresh orange flavors around tangy red berry fruit. There are gentle hints of roasted coffee and dark chocolate, and a trailing touch of black tea. Deep, dark, detailed and destined for interesting development over the next decade or more, this is a wine to enjoy now through the 2030s. 100 cases; 13.9%; $95 (McMinnville) 94/100
Folly of Man 2023 Estate Pinot Noir – Skillful, subtle, spot-on winemaking underlies this perfectly poised young Pinot Noir. The aromas conjure up classic beetroot, raspberry, cherry and Dr. Pepper notes; in the mouth the wine feels like a particularly successful blind date (I’ve never had these wines before) – harmonious, effortless, totally in sync with itself. A seamless tapestry of berries with hints of sandalwood, milk chocolate and butterscotch – nothing excessive, all in proportion. This is above all an elegant wine that doesn’t over-reach, but expresses the soul of the grape in a most compelling way. 100 cases; 13.5%; $100 (Eola-Amity Hills) 96/100
Passing Time
Passing Time 2022 Red – The other current releases from Passing Time were reviewed here a couple of weeks ago. This blend is principally Cabernet Sauvignon, with 15% Merlot and 5% Cab Franc, sourced from a broad mix of vineyards and AVAs. Pretty raspberry and black cherry fruit is at the core here, framed with ripe tannins and finished with barrel toast. Highlights of black olive, coffee grounds, anise and graphite keep giving you more the longer you give it your attention. 545 cases; 14.8%; $59 (Columbia Valley) 94/100
The most exciting trends in winemaking are those that push, extend or blow through boundaries. I suspect that’s the strength and appeal of Tenor. A lot of wines these days are low in alcohol, high in acid, with strong savory/earthy components and minimal use of new oak barrels. Most red wines using Bordeaux or Rhone varieties are blends rather than single grape selections. Tenor wines go 100% the other direction – pure varietal, high abv, plenty of time in expensive new oak. And they’re getting a lot of buzz because the wines are that damn delicious.
Tenor 2023 Olsen Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc – Tenor winemakers Hal Iverson and Alex Stewart seem able to take fruit from some quite familiar vineyards, and turn those grapes into wines that push the boundaries of what were previously seen as limits. This SB was barrel fermented in cigar-shaped oak as well as standard French oak, 65% new, then aged almost a year. It’s a bright gold color, looking and tasting a bit like black Chardonnay. Yes the oak is prominent, and yet the precision and herbal highlights of the Sauvignon Blanc comes up and lingers through the finish. 77 cases; 14.9%; $75 (Yakima Valley) 93/100
Tenor 2022 Conner Lee Vineyard Chardonnay – Twenty months in 100% new French oak barrels mean this is undoubtedly a Chardonnay for lovers of those toasty highlights. Creamy apple pie fruits, laced with butter and caramel, are smooth and silky all through the finish. It’s unfailingly delicious, but what’s most impressive is that it retains a firm structure and a clean flavor corridor all the way through the finish; the oak may be dominant, but it doesn’t obliterate other details or turn at all bitter at the end. 107 cases; 14.9%; $95 (Royal Slope) 94/100
Tenor 2022 La Reyna Blanca Vineyard Chardonnay – A mix of three Dijon clones, barrel fermented in 100% new French oak, put a fine gloss on this ripe, rich, satiny Chardonnay. It’s a true palate-soaker, dense with tropical fruits and barrel flavors of buttered, toasted nuts, caramel and cream. Nonetheless those reliable Washington state acids – especially in this northern AVA – keep the palate lively and fresh. How long will this age? Being cautious, I’d drink it up between now and 2030. 111 cases; 14.9%; $95 (Columbia Valley) 97/100
Tenor 2022 Pinot Noir – An odd crust about an inch below the bottom of the cork had to be broken thru in order to pour the wine. For a Washington Pinot Noir this is a solid effort. Aromatic with clean varietal fruit, it’s got an elegant entry and a textured palate with cherry, sandalwood and toffee flavors. It turns stiff and hits a tannic wall that shortens and brings some bitter phenolics to the finish, with no improvement after 24 hours. 276 cases; 14.9%; $95 (Columbia Valley) 90/100
Tenor 2022 Cabernet Sauvignon – Crushed cherries, licorice and a wash of chocolate introduce this pure Cabernet. Multiple clones, vineyards and AVAs contribute to the complexity. Tannins are firm, astringent and show a savory streak, along with pencil lead, coffee grounds and flint. It’s a study in purity, verticality and clear focus. 258 cases; 15.2%; $185 (Columbia Valley) 95/100
Tenor 2022 Merlot – 100% varietal, as are all Tenor wines, this is an especially ambitious Merlot, a grape that is most often part of a blend. Here it’s showcased in a solo performance, blended from three separate sites, including Wallula Gap and Red Mountain. Lovely aromatics bring instant complexity, with a densely-packed palate of black fruits, cassis, coffee, iron filings and graphite. It’s backed with polished tannins, carrying a subtle streak of savory herb into a long finish. 254 cases; 15.1%; $185 (Columbia Valley) 96/100
Tenor 2022 Cabernet Franc – Surprisingly this is a bit softer than the Cabernet Sauvignon, dotted with pepper and coffee grounds, layered with both red and black fruits. All the Tenor reds are single varietal, and one can’t help but wonder if a dash of this or that in the blend might improve the overall balance. But this Cab Franc can stand all by itself; a full and flavorful expression of what is one of my favorite red grapes. Layered with dried herbs and finished with black tea tannins, it feels complete and completely satisfying. 244 cases; 15.2%; $185 (Columbia Valley) 97/100
Tenor 2022 Stoneridge Vineyard Syrah – Dark as dried blood, aromatic and tightly wound through the core, this shows that Syrah can be powerful and expressive in many different styles, not only in Washington, but throughout the Pacific Northwest. This is a muscular, dense wine, packed with black fruits and details of espresso, licorice, graphite and crushed rock. The flavors resonate beautifully on through a long and satisfying finish that lingers almost endlessly. Deserves a place among the finest Washington Syrahs from a state loaded with them. 69 cases; 15.3%; $145 (Royal Slope) 98/100
Founding winemaker James Frey has handed over the winemaking reins to the next generation while he continues to pursue his painting and photography. In addition to the extensive offerings of estate-grown Riesling, Pinot Noir and a series of Pashey sparkling wines, Trisaetum now makes a line of spirits under the Brixeur label.
A couple of years ago I asked James to comment on the challenges and advantages of making so many different Rieslings. Here are his thoughts.
James Frey: “We still find some consumers associating Riesling with sweet German wines in blue bottles from their youth, and therefore discounting the wines from the outset. With that said, over time that preconceived notion of Riesling is diminishing, so I think there’s more to why some consumers have a hard time getting behind Riesling.
Most wines people drink are relatively dry (less than 1 gram/liter of residual sugar) and relatively soft in regards to acidity (more than 3.60 pH). When consumers try a wine that falls outside those parameters (such as Riesling), it may be unfamiliar to them and therefore not what they expected.
Great bottles of Riesling (which make it arguably the world’s greatest white wine grape) deftly balance any residual sweetness with the wine’s acidity (which is often below a pH of 3.0). When the residual sugar and acid are in perfect harmony, the wines are absolutely magical… wonderfully expressive, energetic and complex. They make you want to keep returning to your glass.
One of Riesling’s greatness strengths – its versatility – is also one of its challenges. Rieslings do come in many styles and if the bottle does not articulate well what the consumer is getting (dry, medium dry, medium sweet, etc) the mismatch between what is expected and what is delivered leaves an unfavorable impression, and turns folks off from further explorations of the grape. All the components of the wine have to be in balance and it certainly helps when you know what to expect in terms of style.
At Trisaetum we tell visitors if the wine is dry or not and then let them taste it. If the wine (regardless of style) balances the sugar and acid well, and demonstrates the complexity, energy and excitement of a good Riesling, then we hear ‘I had no idea’. Creating converts to the grape is a lot of fun. Our Riesling-only club is one of the largest clubs at Trisaetum, and of all the clubs here it has the highest retention rate by far.”
The Current Lineup
Trisaetum 2024 Coast Range Estate Dry Riesling – Planted 20 years ago, this is the largest of the three estate vineyards, and the coolest site as it’s backed up against the foothills of the Coast Range. Dry as labeled, with tart lemon flesh and rind fruit flavors. Aromatically it brings in orange blossoms also, and with breathing time it gains volume in the glass and shows mouth-filling texture and suggestions of honeysuckle and lemon candy as it fades. 162 cases; 12.9%; $40 (Yamhill-Carlton District) 91/100
Trisaetum 2024 Wichmann Dundee Estate Dry Riesling – This touches richness on the palate, with nicely-rounded flavors of Meyer lemon, Cosmic Crisp apple and honeydew melon. The length and texture are impressive, and there are hints of oyster shells that call to mind Muscadet. 141 cases; 13.2%; $40 (Dundee Hills) 93/100
Trisaetum 2024 Ribbon Ridge Estate Dry Riesling – This is the vineyard that adjoins the winery, not far from where the first Riesling vines went into the ground four decades ago in what would later become officially recognized as the Ribbon Ridge AVA. It shows the most complexity of wines from the three distinctive estate sites, a dense wine with excellent texture and depth. Unpacking the flavors requires time and patience, especially with a new vintage. Hints of almonds, lime, green banana, green apple and Asian pear come up slowly. For near term drinking I’d go with the Wichmann Dundee; for cellaring grab this one. 211 cases; 12.7%; $40 (Ribbon Ridge) 94/100
Trisaetum 2024 Estates Reserve Dry Riesling – The reserve blends fruit from the three estate vineyards. Individually they are all well-differentiated, when joined in a single wine they seem a bit muted. Mixed fruits touch on citrus, apple and green melon, with medium body and length. 50 cases; 13%; $50 (Willamette Valley) 92/100
Trisaetum 2024 Coast Range Estate Riesling – Labeled as ‘medium dry’ this is akin to a German spatlese with residual sugar just under 4%. It's round and fruity with flavors of apple and pear pastry. There’s a drizzle of honey and it saturates the palate, lingering through a pleasing finish. Just a bit of residual sugar can add more flavor interest when compared to a totally dry version of the same wine. 139 cases; 10.5%; $40 (Yamhill-Carlton District) 93/100
Trisaetum 2024 Wichmann Dundee Estate Riesling – A lovely bottle, with underlying minerality and a full palate with apricot, papaya and honeysuckle. At 3.7% residual sugar the balance is spot on, keeping the acids in proportion and the sweetness moderate. Lemon drops, tangerine soda and papaya are in the mix, finishing with lively tension and excellent length. 159 cases; 11.5%; $40 (Dundee Hills) 94/100
Trisaetum 2024 Ribbon Ridge Estate Riesling – For this cuvée I rate the dry and the off-dry equally, as both deliver multi-layers of flavor and detail. With residual sugar right around 4% the palate is rounded off, and the fruit plumped up a bit. Hints of ginger, wet stone, graphite, Meyer lemon, butter cookie and more come up. It’s so well balanced that you can keep pulling different notes out as long as the flavors persist. 144 cases; 11.1%; $40 (Ribbon Ridge) 94/100
Trisaetum 2024 Estates Reserve Riesling – Packed with ripe peach, pear, papaya and apricot, this is nonetheless no fruit bomb, as the acid/sugar balance keeps it poised and vibrant across the palate. The residual sugar is just under 5%, making it the sweetest (and richest) of the four off-dry selections. 55 cases; 11%; $50 (Willamette Valley) 94/100
Tasting Opportunity – Pashey Wines, Trisaetum’s sparkling wine project, will be pouring four 2021 vintage releases alongside wines from 21 other Oregon fizz masters at Method Oregon on July 26th. Click here for ticket information.
Note to wineries – updated guidelines for submitting wine samples
Please send wines as soon as they are released. I always allow wines a minimum of two weeks to recover from shipping before they are tasted. Do not ship over weekends, holidays or in brutally hot or cold weather. Please do include as much technical detail as you can; at a minimum include release dates, retail prices and case quantities for every wine. I recommend that you send a broad representation of wines from your portfolio, including limited wine club only selections. All wines will be tasted under controlled conditions over many hours and days. Only positive reviews will be published; my notes on wines that don’t qualify are available to you upon request.
I encourage you to use my notes and scores in all your marketing. My reviews are often quoted by online e-tailers such as Full Pull, Last Bottle and Avalon, so help me spread the word. For those tasked with sending wines to media, be sure to let everyone at the winery know what was sent to me and when. Please subscribe to my Substack so that when your reviews are published you will see the email alert.
Don’t Miss This! Basalt Bash & Barrel Auction – July 25 -26
For the first time the Rocks District Winegrowers are hosting what is sure to become a must-see annual event. In celebration of the 10th anniversary of the establishment of the AVA, and in anticipation of the extraordinary recognition now developing around the world, the winegrowers of this unique sub-region are offering a chance to bid on 25 one-of-a-kind lots of wine from a who’s who list of top producers. Ahead of the auction there will be tastings, a street party, a Bubble Lounge and more. You know how good these wines are, and how hard they are to find. Now you can bid on unique cases of wine otherwise unavailable. For complete details and to purchase tickets follow this link. I look forward to having you join me at this celebration!