Shake Up Your Winter Palate With These Springtime Whites

Plus: New releases Brockmeyer, Soter, Stanley Groovy, The Walls & WeatherEye

First, a huge thank you to all my subscribers, and an extra special note of gratitude to those who make a financial contribution. Your support has been especially meaningful this past couple of weeks as there has been a sudden and stressful medical event in our family - thankfully now on the mend. For the time being I’ll keep up with weekly posts but may have some shorter ones for awhile. Meanwhile… hello springtime!

As the weather warms and the garden blooms into its full springtime glory my thoughts turn to crisp, fresh white wines. These are the perfect choices for sipping on the porch on a warm late April/early May afternoon. Look beyond your tried-and-true favorites at least once or twice. Go exploring!

Here in the Pacific Northwest many wineries are making excellent pure varietal and/or blended wines from a broad range of interesting white wine grapes. I’ve pulled some $30 and under favorites from recent reviews to tickle your fancy. Consider these as guidelines to help you discover your own favorites. I’ve chosen one representative for each variety or blend, presented in alphabetical order by winery name.

Brockmeyer 2024 Otis Vineyard Albariño – This storied vineyard, which dates from the mid-1950s, changed hands in 2013. This Albariño is obviously a recent planting, but shows that the old site still delivers the goods. This immaculately fresh, lightly pétillant white wine is an absolute joy, with deceptively deep flavors of lemon and grapefruit, flesh and rind, backed with river rock minerality. As it warms a bit a touch of papaya comes out. Simply delicious! 112 cases; 13.9%; $21 (Yakima Valley) 94/100

David Hill 2023 Chasselas Doré ‘Row 4’ – From grapes planted in the 1960s by original owner Charles Coury winemaker Chad Stock has crafted this crisp, dense and appealing white wine. Quince, apple, jicama and lime zest combine with lightly savory herbs to build a firm, deep and lingering palate. Lovely texture and subtle minerality reflect the grape’s mountain Swiss origins. 24 cases; 12.4%; $28 (Tualatin Hills) 93/100

Gramercy Cellars 2024 Picpoul – Hard to imagine a more refreshing spring/summer white wine. This classic ‘lip stinger’ is loaded with lime, mineral and a dash of sea salt. The supporting acids bring a wash of lemon juice. Not sour, just tart and palate cleansing start to finish. 665 cases; 13%; $25 (Walla Walla Valley) 92/100

Kiona 2023 Old Vine Chenin Blanc – Though this is a blend, with 8% Viognier and 2% Roussanne, it’s pretty close to the pure old vine Chenins that have often inspired me. Principally sourced from the 45-year-old Phil Church vineyard, this balanced and fruit-filled wine includes lots fermented in clay amphora, French oak both new and used and stainless tanks. Nothing dominates, the texture melds the impacts of the mixed vessels, and the wine includes flavors of fresh greens along with a lush mix of tree fruits. 1966 cases; 13.2%; $19 (Columbia Valley) 91/100

Lange 2023 Classique Pinot Gris – Lange was very early (4th in the country) to jump on the Pinot Gris bandwagon, and has access to some old vines to make this excellent example. Love the texture, the light touches of spice and pear skin, the core of tangy apple and citrus, the overall electric vitality shown here. It’s one of those most refreshing white wines that literally will have you smacking your lips in anticipation of the next sip. 6000 cases; 13.3%; $25 (Willamette Valley) 93/100

Love & Squalor 2021 Dry Riesling – If you like your Riesling bone dry with the sort of lip-smacking juiciness that is as close to sucking on a lemon as a wine can be, here’s your bottle. And I mean that in a good way. Beyond the lemon you’ll find grapefruit, tangerine, a squeeze of lime… you get the picture. Dry Rieslings can be so dry the fruit feels desiccated; not here. This wine is bursting wide open with fruit, which carries the flavors bright and bold through a lingering finish. 110 cases; 11%; $21 (Willamette Valley) 95/100

Peter William 2023 Daisy Creek Vineyard Viognier – This is perfumed, almost like a Gewurztraminer, but once in the mouth it’s a whole other style. Ripe, lightly candied lemon drop and Key lime flavors take over in a full-bodied mid-palate, adding hints of wintergreen mint through a trailing finish. Really delicious and clearly a variety well-suited to the Rogue Valley. 158 cases; 14.4%; $30 (Rogue Valley) 92/100

Quady North 2023 Pistoleta – This fruit-driven wine mixes together Viognier, Roussanne and Marsanne, with small amounts of Grenache Blanc and Vermentino finishing the blend. Ripe flavors of Meyer lemon, Key lime, pink grapefruit, crisp apple and Asian pear bring a wonderful fullness across the palate. There’s ample acidity to bolster the finish and keep those flavors fresh and vibrant, with a hint of wet stone as it fades. 2194 cases; 12.9%; $20 (Rogue Valley) 92/100

Tranche 2022 Blue Mountain Vineyard Pape Blanc – From the estate vineyard comes this juicy, sappy, sexy six-variety blend of Roussanne, Grenache Blanc, Viognier, Clairette Blanche, Marsanne and Picpoul. This southern Rhône-style mélange maintains focus and seamlessly showcases a luscious palate of lemon, lime, grapefruit and tangerine, both flesh and rind. Fermented in a mix of French oak barrels and concrete eggs, it’s beautifully balanced and lively through the finish. 13.6%; $30 (Walla Walla Valley) 94/100

Taken all together these wines showcase the depth and diversity of the Pacific Northwest, a broad region with as much variety as California, but (I would argue) a better climate going forward. Often my recommendations are on the pricey side of the ledger, but you’ll find a lot of value wines scattered throughout this week’s reviews.

New releases

Brockmeyer Family

I was introduced to this interesting producer when Richard ‘Brock’ Brockmeyer sent me the following email:

“Your Resonance article sparked a wonderful 21 years-old memory for me. Sharing it will give you a bit of background on me, before we get a chance to present our Brockmeyer Family Wines.

“I began working with William Hill of Napa in the late 70’s. When his strong belief in Oregon for cool climate Pinot Noir turned to action in 1988, I was his ‘land man’, with the task of finding sites that could be developed to world-class vineyards. (He believed at the time that Napa-Carneros was too warm for world-class Pinot Noir, so our 250 acre development there was 100% Chardonnay.) Our first Oregon acquisition was in the Eola Hills in 1989. For my Résonance memory, we jump ahead to the 2003 IPNC gathering.

“Back then guests did not know the respective vineyard we would be visiting on our field trip until we boarded the bus. I was delighted to find that I would be visiting Résonance with Kevin Chambers hosting. Earlier in the year I had placed an adjacent property under contract of purchase. Because of Résonance’s renown – much through Peter Rosback’s Sineann wines from the site – we knew the climate was right on. The other key factor – soil structure – we had proven up with numerous test pit holes during the due diligence period. During IPNC we were in the confidential wait period to complete the purchase.

“We started development the fall of 2003, creating what would become known as Gran Morane. Two other discoveries I am proud of are what developed into Zena’s Crown and Roserock. Although it was not one of our projects, we sparked the creation of Antica Terra by the original owners.”

PG: Despite this long history in vineyard development, the family winery only dates from 2018, founded “to honor Brock’s grandfather’s 1890s planted Grenache vineyard outside of Fresno.” The first Washington wines were added in 2022, when son Brett Brockmeyer moved to Walla Walla to become the production winemaker for the Dossier Collective.

Brockmeyer 2024 Otis Vineyard Albariño – reviewed above

Brockmeyer 2023 Flamant Cuvée – Half Los Rocosos Vineyard Grenache and half Francisca’s Vineyard Syrah, this vibrant and captivating wine is strikingly good right out of the bottle, just three months after blending. Rich and deep flavors of purple and black berries carry into a firm, lightly tannic finish. At such a young age post-bottling it’s all about the fruit, but penetrating minerality underscores the finish. The Brockmeyer family (father and son) know how to find great vineyards, and turn the grapes into compelling wines. At such a price this wine is a steal. 45 cases; 14.7%; $28 (Walla Walla Valley) 93/100

Brockmeyer 2022 Francisca’s Vineyard Syrah – A compelling single vineyard Syrah from the Washington side of the Walla Walla Valley AVA. Dark, aromatic and bursting with blackberry, black cherry and cassis fruit, this complex and layered wine should be studied and savored for hours if not days. Veins of espresso, black licorice, black olive, tobacco and clean earth come up as if you are hitting your pick ax in a mine deep underground. Clearly this family-owned winery, which only recently has ventured into Washington, has the chops to make a big splash. These first releases show the promise of what’s to come. 65 cases; 14.8%; $48 (Walla Walla Valley) 95/100

Soter Vineyards

Soter 2022 Estates Chardonnay – A succulent wine, sappy and strikingly deep, this puts the emphasis on texture as well as juicy flavors. Citrus and apple are prominent, underpinned with wet stone minerality. It was barrel-fermented and aged in about a third of new French oak, followed by six months in stainless. The toasted hazelnut framing from the new oak is polished and restrained, leaving an impression of elegance as the wine trails out. 1089 cases; 13.2%; $60 (Willamette Valley) 95/100

Soter 2023 Planet Oregon Pinot Noir – Planet Oregon is a sister label from Soter, using sustainably farmed grapes and offering exceptional value. This is front-loaded with blackberry and plum fruit, and sails quickly into modest but ripe tannins. It shows great concentration up front, then tails out fairly quickly. For a drink-now, fruit-forward, high value wine with real grip and power, here is your go-to Willamette Valley Pinot Noir. 13.4%; $24 (Willamette Valley) 92/100

Soter 2023 Estates Pinot Noir – Just released and still very tight, this brings a compact core of blackberry and black cherry fruit, firm and polished tannins and a sprinkling of dried herbs. One quarter whole clusters, one third new oak, this needs extra aeration to unpack its pleasures. My notes on day two confirm this, as it’s a deeply fruited wine, the black fruits accented with espresso, tobacco and black tea highlights. 3282 cases; 13.6%; $60 (Willamette Valley) 95/100

The Walls/Stanley Groovy

With the 2022 vintage Stanley Groovy has a new label and has been given a bit of a promotion, now as a full-fledged sister brand to The Walls.

Stanley Groovy 2023 Lip Stinger White – This white Rhône-influenced blend gets a rebuild in 2023, now 60% Grenache blanc, 18% Roussanne, 9% Viognier, 9% Picpoul and 4% Marsanne. Grenache blanc being one of my all-time favorite white wine grapes, this hits a bullseye for my palate. A bright gold color, full across the palate, it’s a rich wine with a lush mix of peach, apricot and papaya, fringed on the side with a touch of citrus. It stays firm through the finish, with a finishing hint of marzipan. 605 cases; 14.6%; $32 (Washington) 93/100

Stanley Groovy 2022 Vinho Tinto Red – A blend of Portuguese and southern French varieties, fermented in concrete and stainless, then aged in neutral wood, this does have a Eurocentric palate, dry, lightly earthy, with tart red berries and savory accents. It’s accessible and balanced. Dry red Portuguese wines have become more and more popular, so a Washington version is quite an interesting addition to your tasting options for these grapes. The lightly astringent finish suggests pairing this with braised beef or lamb. 1047 cases; 14.2%; $35 (Washington) 92/100

Stanley Groovy 2022 A Cab Supreme – Mostly Cabernet Sauvignon, with 8% Petit Verdot and 5% Merlot in the finished blend. Predominantly Red Mountain fruit, this keeps the tannins proportionate and showcases a mix of raspberries, blackberries and dryland herbs. Lovely structure keeps the wine framed and focused, and it’s not pushed into over-ripe as can happen with Red Mountain fruit. It’s drinking quite well already, but should continue to develop in the bottle over the next decade. 1047 cases; 14.7%; $40 (Red Mountain) 93/100

The Walls 2022 Wonderful Nightmare Tempranillo – Rocks District grapes from the Stoney Vine and Rockgarden vineyards put their distinctive imprint on this wine, which includes 8% Mourvèdre in the finished blend. Wonderfully supple on the palate, the flavors of berries, savory herbs, chamomile tea, hints of composted soil and tapenade seem to roll through and on down as you taste. As much as I liked the previous vintage, this is a notch higher, a lovely and very well made bottle that proves that truly delicious red wine can often be made at very modest level of alcohol. 276 cases; 12.7%; $48 (Walla Walla Valley) 94/100

The Walls 2022 Bellamy Cabernet Sauvignon – The grapes come from River Rock and Les Collines, and the blend includes 17% Merlot and a splash of Cabernet Franc. It’s dark, bold and juicy, with a powerful core of black fruits accented with black licorice, cold coffee and dark chocolate. The balance is en point, the compact flavors almost seem to be waiting to be unpacked. Decant this wine if drinking it anytime soon. From the opening aromatics on through the lingering finish, with its tailing twist of caramel, this impactful wine delights. 390 cases; 14.5%; $80 (Walla Walla Valley) 95/100

The Walls 2022 Curiositas Cabernet Sauvignon – Sourced from a pair of Red Mountain vineyards, this includes 9% Petit Verdot and 3% each of Merlot and Petite Sirah. The rich, vibrant deep garnet hues are the gateway to a deep, dense, tannic yet fruit-packed Cab that brings unusual complexity to such power. Black cherry, cassis, espresso, black tea, a whiff of smoke, toasted hazelnuts and more are in play. Give this plenty of aeration to unpack all the flavors. Highly ageworthy. I hesitate to comment on packaging (no one likes it) but I will say that, at least for me, this wine far outshines its graphics. 415 cases; 14.9%; $75 (Red Mountain) 96/100

WeatherEye

The landing page for the WeatherEye website is a drone flyover view of the entire property with separate blocks clearly labeled. It has not been updated but gives a good start on grasping the uniqueness of this site. For more detailed information check out the extended post I wrote on Substack last spring. These 2022 wines are allocated to mailing list members, not listed on the website. Prices shown are last year’s prices.

WeatherEye 2022 Estate Cabernet Sauvignon – This is essentially the same blend as the previous vintage, with 4% Merlot and 3% Cabernet Franc added. Fermented in stainless steel and concrete, it then spent 22 months in 70% new French oak barriques. Not due for release until late fall, it’s tight and tannic, with compacted flavors of blackberry jam and purple fruits, lightly dappled with fresh herbs. 255 cases; 15%; $150 (Columbia Valley) 94-96/100

WeatherEye 2022 Estate Mourvèdre – This pure varietal is sourced from head-trained vines, with 15% whole clusters in the ferment, followed by aging in large, neutral oak barrels. The purity achieved by fruit from this incredible vineyard must be tasted to be believed. Have you ever hiked high on a mountain to pick wild berries? Those are the flavors you’ll find here – brambly, slightly earthy, concentrated yet refined. Subtle details bring notes of sage, dried mushrooms and clean, fresh earth. 176 cases; 14.8%; $85 (Columbia Valley) 96/100

WeatherEye 2022 Estate Tempranillo – This breaks the pure varietal mold with a mix of 82% Tempranillo, 9% Grenache and 9% Mourvèdre. Fermented in stainless steel and concrete, then aged for almost two years in 50% new French oak, it makes a strong stand for a definitive Washington style of Tempranillo. Too many wineries have simply mimicked the Rioja recipe, a method virtually guaranteed to fail. I won’t dive into the myriad rules, regulations and ancient practices that craft the great Riojas, but I can tell you they can’t be duplicated here. This is the way forward – a wine that is black in the center, thick with tannins and dense with black fruits.. Fermented in stainless steel and concrete, then aged for two years in 50% new French oak, this is a spicy, peppery and dense wine; tannic to be sure, layered with espresso and dark chocolate highlights, and ready for your biggest, juiciest steak. 135 cases; 14.7%; $85 (Columbia Valley) 96/100

WeatherEye 2022 Estate Grenache – This is 100% Grenache from four different vineyard blocks (some on the north-facing Columbia Valley side of Red Mountain), all head-trained, fermented in concrete with 30% whole clusters, and aged in neutral wood. It’s a profound experience immersing your palate in a wine of such purity, tasting the lush mix of blueberries, blackberries, loganberries, black cherries and more, set perfectly in a frame of ripe, polished tannins. As I wrote about last year’s release, if you love big, bold Grenache but not the funky stuff this is the wine for you. 202 cases; 14.8%; $85 (Columbia Valley) 97/100

WeatherEye 2022 The Raven’s Share – The blend changes dramatically every year; here it’s 46% Merlot, 31% Cabernet Franc and 23% Cabernet Sauvignon, aged for 22 months in 63% new French oak. The palate is generously layered with berries, cherries, Asian spices, savory herbs, dark chocolate and a dusting of coffee grounds. With softer tannins and a lush blend of herbs, minerals and mountain berries, this is the most complex and (perhaps) ageworthy wine of the flight. 127 cases; 15%; $150 (Columbia Valley) 97/100

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