Saviah Part Two – Outliers and Insiders
Thoughts on wine clubs and a salute to 20 years of The Jack
My first review of The Jack was for the 2003 vintage (which may have been its debut). I wrote “this outstanding blend – mostly Seven Hills vineyard Merlot, with a bit of Red Mountain Cab – is made by Saviah’s Rich Funk. It sports one of the cleverest labels I’ve seen in a long while. A sepia-toned jack of clubs references Mrs. Funk’s great-grandfather Jack Hutchens, who married Saviah, the winery’s namesake, back in the early 1900s. They homesteaded in the Montana wilderness near Whitefish at a place called Star Meadows, where Jack made a living as a trapper. The grapes for The Jack come from the Seven Hills vineyard, and the winemaking, as always with Saviah wines, is first-rate. Sweet, tangy, ripe red fruits – berries and cherries and hints of mango and apricot – roll into a silky smooth middle, finishing with a lick of licorice. Can ‘The Queen’, ‘The King’ and ‘The Ace’ be far behind?”
Well I missed the naming boat, but my notes on subsequent vintages were remarkably consistent. My take on the 2005: “the blend is 88% Merlot; the rest divided among Cabernet Sauvignon, Carmenère and Syrah. This is sweet and bursting with ripe red fruit flavors of strawberry preserves, raspberries and peaches. It hits some hard tannins but the pretty fruit keeps on going.”
For the 2009: “a Merlot-based red blend, aged in American oak (30% new), it's a real palate-pleaser. Strawberries and plums dance into a detailed wine with fine-grained tannins and a pleasing herbal streak. It would be hard to find a more party-friendly red.” That same vintage a varietal Cabernet Sauvignon was added to the Jack’s lineup. That review went “the phenomenally successful Jack brand has expanded. This is a varietally labeled Cabernet Sauvignon. Forward and fruity with black cherry hard candy flavors. It adds just the barest hint of earth and fungus, giving it some welcome depth and detail.” Both wines carried a suggested retail of $18.
You can see that vintage and blend changes had no negative impact on The Jack. What began 20 years ago as a single budget bottle has steadily grown into a lineup that currently includes four white and five red wines. Three of the latest releases are reviewed below. And even more impressive is that the price hasn’t changed in almost 20 years. It’s still $18 for the reds and $15 for the white wines.
The Jack 2022 Red Wine – This Right Bank-ish Bordeaux blend is 75% Merlot, 10% Cab Franc, 10% Malbec and 5% Petit Verdot – rather sophisticated for such an inexpensive wine. The Jack’s track record (cited above) is undeniable, and if anything this is a much better wine than in its early days, with older vineyard sources, more accomplished winemaking and a balanced, lingering, complex finish. The bold raspberry fruit shines through a long, clean finish, with a finishing kiss from 25% new oak. 6500 cases; 14.5%; $18 Columbia Valley) 92/100
The Jack 2021 Cabernet Sauvignon – I’ll assume that this is 100% varietal, and fits in nicely as an introduction to the rest of the Saviah Cabs. All the Jack wines are fruit-driven, with minimal or no barrel influence, which serves to showcase the ripe, bright, immaculate pomegranate fruit. There’s not a hint of any green character, bitter stems or anything less than careful selection from the start. It’s a solid, well-built, flavorful, even sturdy example of pure Washington Cabernet. 4619 cases; 14.5%; $18 (Columbia Valley) 91/100
The Jack 2020 Syrah – With 10% Grenache and 5% Mourvèdre, it’s a Syrah-heavy GSM. Which is a good thing, since Syrah is the star grape at Saviah. I don’t believe you can find a better GSM at this price. The flavors of the Syrah shine brightest, highlighting a palate-coating, textural mouthfeel that brings red berry pastry fruits, a hint of pie crust, balancing acids and a fresh, clean finish. I suggest you buy this by the case. 1857 cases; 14.3%; $18 (Columbia Valley) 93/100
My first post on Saviah a few days ago generated more positive comments from readers than virtually any winery I’ve ever profiled in the past two decades. The quality, consistency and affordability of these wines is almost unmatched. Add to that the fact that founder Rich Funk, winemaker Tom Adolfae and assistant winemaker Jared Funk continue to explore and expand and develop their portfolio. No resting on their laurels here.
When you find a winery that’s hitting on all cylinders it’s almost imperative to check out their wine club. Almost every winery these days has a wine club, and they come in many flavors. Some offer different tiers depending on cost, some ship wine regularly and some don’t. Some have sign-up waiting lists for certain bottles. Some sell small production wines that may or may not be worth the tariff. Many offer discounts, access to unusual wines and side bennies such as complementary tastings and special wine club events. Although joining is a bit of a commitment for the consumer, in many cases it pays off.
Here’s a quick look at the benefits of joining Saviah’s club. The terms, fees and conditions are clearly spelled out. I feature them as an example that can serve as a good template for any winery you are considering signing up with.
In my last post I commented on the winery history and tasted through some impressive current and upcoming releases. Here are my thoughts on a selection of Saviah’s more unusual cuvées, also noteworthy for the overall quality, reasonable pricing, and the chance to sample some hidden treasures of the Walla Walla Valley AVA. Purchase here.
Saviah 2022 Stillwater Creek Vineyard Chardonnay – “A seemingly impossible vintage,” says the winery website, “marked by a cold spring, hot summer and sensational October.” In other words, welcome to the wine business. This is a smooth, luscious, lightly toasty expression. This vineyard is much-admired for its white wine grapes, and this is the reason why. The fruit is bright, ripe and clean, and has the weight to carry the barrel flavors right on through a medium-long finish. 206 cases; 13.6%; $35 (Columbia Valley) 92/100
Saviah 2020 Dugger Creek Vineyard Nebbiolo – This is as fine a Washington Nebbiolo as I can ever recall. Admittedly, it’s a small cohort, and perhaps it’s the generous 100% new oak that makes this extra appealing. Whatever the reason, it’s a flavorful wine that touches gracefully upon the strengths of the great Italian Nebbiolos. Hints of tobacco, dusty red fruits and just enough tannic weight to carry the finish. A delightfully intriguing wine all the way, even better after 24 hours. 104 cases; 14.5%; $40 (Walla Walla Valley) 91/100
Saviah 2021 Dugger Creek Vineyard Barbera – This is a sturdy take on the Italian grape, with polished flavors of blue plum, roasted coffee and tobacco. It seems to hit a firm wall in mid-palate, trailing out with dusty, toasty barrel flavors. 235 cases; 14.5%; $35 (Walla Walla Valley) 91/100
Saviah 2021 Malbec – Spicy in the nose and mouth, this brings juicy fruit-forward flavors of raspberry candy and elderberry. Don’t look for an Argentine style here. This is a tart and fruity, well-balanced, easy-drinking red. 200 cases; 14.5%; $35 (Walla Walla Valley) 90/100
Saviah 2019 Petit Verdot – Estate grown, this is dense and detailed with nuances of mushroom, compost, coffee grounds and black tea. The components of ripe pomegranate, tart raspberry and the suggestion of a bitter edge putting a fine veneer on the tannins all combine to elevate this terrific PV. 190 cases; 14.6%; $38 (on sale) (Walla Walla Valley) 93/100
Saviah 2019 Lewis Vineyard Syrah – Here is one more Syrah to fill out the Saviah portfolio, this from the Lewis vineyard, long a favorite of Eric Dunham. Streaked with espresso and underscored with charcoal and graphite, this is built upon tangy raspberry and black cherry fruit. Aged 17 months in French oak, 20% new. Good length and a lick of citrus at the tail. 127 cases; 14.6%; $50 (Yakima Valley) 93/100
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Thank you all for your support. During this holiday season may you stay safe, drink well, hug your friends and don’t forget to kiss your dog!