Preserving Open Bottles & Damon Huard Talks Passing Time and Football

Plus: The magic of Shea wines; new releases from DanCin, Dunham, Peter William and Pedro Guillermo

I have nothing against products that actually preserve wines, as they encourage moderate drinking and also make it possible for you to open that ‘special’ bottle without waiting for some magical occasion that may or may not coincide with the wine’s best drinking window.

Coravin and Private Preserve are quite different but effective wine preservation options. Coravin uses a needle injection system that allows you to pour a glass without any impact on the remaining wine. Private Preserve is gas in a can that works well for a one time use per bottle. If you are drinking less but enjoying better quality wines, either option is good. You can open a ‘special’ bottle without having to finish it; use one of these products and your wine, however fragile or rare, will be drinking well on the next day.

There are plenty of other products you may wish to try, but most fail in one way or another. Whatever you choose there should always be some testing with less than essential wines. If it works, try again on a better wine. When you have found something that really is reliable ­– as are the two named above – go ahead and use them on your best bottles.

For brand new, young wines – the vast majority of those I review – I don’t use any preservative. I intentionally allow some gentle oxidation to occur so I can get a sense of how that new wine may age. On day one I open the bottle, pour a glass, and immediately put the cork back in. This keeps oxygen exposure to a minimum, and allows me to revisit the wine on the following day to reveal any hidden flaws. If the wine shows as well or even better on the second day, it’s a strong indication that it will age gracefully.

This works best if you do just one or two pours on the first day and keep the bottle corked (or capped or closed). If you are planning to drink half the bottle – two generous pours – another option is to have a clean half size (375ml) bottle at hand. As soon as you open the big bottle pour half the wine into the smaller bottle and cork it. Leave it alone and that wine will be fine for another 24 - 48 hours without any preservative.

Passing Time

The last time I reviewed these wines, which are brilliantly made by consulting winemaker Chris Peterson, my friend Paul Zitarelli featured my writeups in one of his Full Pull emails. He introduced the wines by saying “It’s not really a surprise that this winery’s star has risen so rapidly. It was clear from the very first time I [PaulZ] met Damon Huard that this was not going to be in any way a half-ass celebrity wine label. I still remember walking into Avennia and catching Damon talking to Chris Peterson about vineyard spacing. Not branding or labels. Not sales or marketing. Geeky vineyard talk! It seemed auspicious at the time, and it still seems so today.

“The genesis of the project was a period in the late ‘90s when Dan and Damon overlapped with the Miami Dolphins. Marino was already a wine fanatic at that point, and he surprised Huard (a Washington native) with the fact that a solid chunk of his cellar came from Washington. Damon can tick off multiple connections to Washington wine: his great grandparents were grape farmers (okay, the grapes were Concord, but close enough); his dad played high school basketball with Paul Champoux (Champoux Vineyard); and he married a girl from the Yakima Valley. So there was plenty of interest among both men in finding a way to move into Washington wine after retiring from football.

“With their shared love of Cabernet Sauvignon, and their connection to the Champoux family, the original plan was to wait until they could access Champoux Cabernet, but in the interim, they tasted Cabernets from a series of Champoux neighbors. One of those tastings featured Discovery Vineyard, and the guys had a ‘wow’ moment. With a vineyard plan in place, they next set about securing a consulting winemaker, and they landed on Chris Peterson of Avennia. Since the inaugural 2012 vintage, Passing Time has expanded to include Cabernets from the Walla Walla Valley and Red Mountain as well.”

PG: It’s now ten years since the first (2012 vintage) Passing Time wines were released, and they have earned a well-deserved place among the very best that Washington has to offer. For an update I asked co-founder Damon Huard to share some thoughts on his current responsibilities, the evolution of the brand and a quick look at the upcoming football season.

PG: What currently is your role at Passing Time? Obviously face of the brand, but what else?

DH: “I am the managing partner. I handle most all the day-to-day business along with Jennifer Nance who is our starting QB at Passing Time [smiley face]. From paying the bills to ordering barrels to delivering to our local accounts I really do enjoy the industry. It is a lifestyle. It is all about relationships, and after a decade doing this my passion to make Washington’s next great Cabernet has not changed.”

PG: Is your co-partner Dan Marino involved in any day-to-day responsibilities?

DH: “Although Dan is 3000 miles away he is the all-time best ambassador for Passing Time. He would say he is the professional taster and that all PT wines have to be approved by him before they are ready for market. Dan and Claire are out here every March for our Club Members when we officially release our latest vintage. It is the biggest party we throw annually and we welcome nearly 600 folks through our doors. We also do a number of events and winemaker dinners each year in south Florida thanks to Dan. Despite the distance this amazing wine project continues our friendship dating back to nearly 30 years ago when we were teammates and he introduced me to fine wine.”

PG: What are the most essential lessons you’ve learned since starting Passing Time?

DH: “I have learned that, like football, this wine endeavor truly is all about the team: fhe farmers in the vines, Chris and our winemaking team with John and Jared, all the folks we meet along the way with logistics and the supplies needed to make wine; and most importantly our club members and supporters. It is all about the relationships and I think our brand has been built by them. There are so many great Washington wines and to distinguish ourselves – yes the wine has to be good – but so too does the experience and time spent with our customers. I hope when our club members leave our events and spend time with us that they truly have enjoyed themselves and feel a connection. This has been the key to our success – along with the very best fruit from some of the oldest established vineyards in the state.”

PG: Do you ever trade wines/compare notes with Drew Bledsoe, another ex-teammate and fellow winery owner?

DH: “Drew is a dear friend. We have been teammates, foes at all levels, and everything in between. We probably do three or four events a year together. We collaborate on a wine every three years called Double Time ‘Rivals’ where we make just 250 magnums and we sign them all. It is a barrel of his Cab and a barrel of our Discovery Cab. Yes we do trade some wine from time to time. He loves our Horse Heaven Hills Cab and I am a huge fan of their estate Doubleback Cab.”

PG: Gotta ask - your predictions for the Huskies and Seahawks this year?

DH: “The Huskies have a spectacular young QB in Desmond Williams. He is the fastest guy on the field and has a rifle arm. His ability to extend plays with his athleticism will be so fun to watch for Husky fans. I think he can carry the Dawgs to nine wins this year. We have to stay healthy and need better play on the O & D lines. The big question will be can we play better on the road? Our schedule is much more favorable than last year; I think year two under Jedd Fisch has a chance to be special.

“As far as the Seahawks I have no clue. The NFL is built on parity. I believe the Seahawk defense is going to be solid. But can the Seahawk offense with a new OC [offensive coordinator], new quarterback, and no DK Metcalf and Tyler Lockett score enough points to get to 10 wins and a playoff game? I think it’s playoffs or bust with two straight years of missing them.”

PG: Thank you Damon Huard for your wines, your expertise and your upbeat thoughts on football. And now on to the wines.

Passing Time 2023 Chardonnay – Three quarters was barrel fermented in French oak, adding a nice touch of toasted brioche circling ripe peach and papaya fruit. Balanced top to bottom, it next brings in layers of tangerine and orange pekoe tea, wrapped into a lingering finish. Exceptional length, and still delicious after 48 hours. 400 cases; 13.8%; $50 (Columbia Valley) 94/100

Passing Time 2022 Walla Walla Cabernet Sauvignon – Pure Cabernet from two foundational Walla Walla vineyards – Seven Hills and Pepper Bridge. Three fifths saw new French oak. These are big wines but carefully balanced, and the fruit and acid and tannin and alcohol are evenly matched. Here are notes of cinnamon and coffee, with raspberry/cherry fruit at the core. Give it decanting or extra time open and more highlights emerge – coffee cake, blueberry jam, breakfast tea… 350 cases; 14.8%; $110 (Walla Walla Valley) 94/100

Passing Time 2022 HHH Cabernet Sauvignon – The blend includes 9% Merlot and 4% Cab Franc from Champoux; the Cabernet comes from the Discovery and Wallula (Benches) vineyards. Smooth as a Marino moon ball, this is loaded with ripe black fruits, accents of coffee and toast, finishing with firm and lightly grainy tannins. The difference from cult quality Napa Cabs (other than price) is the acid component, which adds precision and definition to the wine as it rolls through the finish. This is a fine representation of top Washington talent for making world-class Cabernet Sauvignon and Cab blends. 450 cases; 14.6%; $110 (Horse Heaven Hills) 95/100

Passing Time 2022 Red Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon – Three premier Red Mountain vineyards are at the heart of this wine – Klipsun, Kiona Heart of the Hill and Red Mountain. It is finished (or topped off) with a splash (2%) of Bacchus Cab Franc. A clear and strong through-line connects all these Passing Time Cabs with an unmistakable style – power, balance and ripe, polished tannins – but the different AVAs are carefully defined, albeit subtly. The Red Mountain tannins are firm, grainy, toasty and structural, with black currant, graphite and clean earth accents. The depth and length suggests aging this another half decade, with a lifespan that could extend to mid-century. 325 cases; 14.7%; $110 (Red Mountain) 97/100

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An interesting proposal came to me from a winery wondering if they could offer their club members a ‘gift’ subscription to my Substack. I was pleased at the thought, but quickly realized it wouldn’t really add value, and here’s why.

Substack lets the writers decide what (if any) material is free, and what (if any) is available only to paid subscribers. A year ago I decided to offer my readers a paid option. I set up a paywall, limiting the most interesting interviews and reviews to paid subscribers. It was quickly apparent (doh!) that my best material was not seen by the majority of my readers. For example, an interview with Peter and Dick Shea, along with my reviews of their 2022 wines, was hidden behind the paywall. I don’t think many people ever saw it.

So I dumped the paywall after the first month. Everything on this site is available to everyone for free. I’m re-running that Shea interview (with reviews of this year’s 2023 spring releases) below. I thanked the winery that inquired about gift subscriptions, but explained that there wouldn’t be any add-on value since it’s all free to begin with. A paid option is still available, and I welcome any and all subscribers who offer financial support.

Quoting Blanche DuBois in Streetcar Named Desire: "Whoever you are, I have always depended on the kindness of strangers." Amen!

Shea Wine Cellars

A year ago I asked Peter and Dick Shea to comment on what they believe makes their vineyard so exceptional. Here are their comments with reviews of the newest releases.

PG: Obviously great care and tending of the vines is essential for the kind of long term success that Shea has enjoyed. But what about the site itself is special?

Peter: “Dick and I spent some time talking about your questions. There’s obviously a lot to talk about when it comes to defining what makes our vineyard unique. To start with, our vineyard sits on 100% marine sediment soils, squarely in the middle of the Willakenzie series. These fast-draining soils are low in nutrients and put just the right amount of stress on the vine to cause it to focus its energy on ripening fruit rather than vigorous green growth. This results in fruit that’s concentrated and with plenty of skin tannin to support the ripeness of the resulting wines. The fast-draining soils coupled with the fact that we’ve been a dry-farmed vineyard from the outset mean that there’s generally some amount of water loss in the fruit as the season comes to a close, resulting in wines of even greater concentration.”

PG: Can you describe the site for those who have never visited?

PS: “Our vineyard sits in a bowl formed at the meeting point of several ridges. That keeps us protected from wind and late season showers which are common at harvest. It also makes our temperature a bit higher than other surrounding vineyards. The bowl sits high on the ridges and rises to the crest. Most sedimentary soil vineyards in the valley sit on hills that top out around 450 feet. At the top we are at 620 feet. The air is thinner up there and the grapes tend to be smaller with frequent ‘shot’ berries. Smaller berries are more concentrated and intense. That passes through to the character of the wine.”

PG: Last but not least?

PS: “Another very important factor is our vineyard crew, most of whom have been with us for over 10 years, and several for over 20 years. Our vineyard manager, Jesus Marin, started with us as a tractor driver in 1995. Their knowledge of the vineyard gained through experience is invaluable. Are there other unnoticed factors that contribute to the uniqueness of Shea fruit? Who knows; we are still learning. That’s part of the mystery of unique fine wine. The important thing is that you can taste the difference.”

PG: Thank you Peter and all the Shea family for your contributions to the global reputation of Oregon Pinot Noir.

Shea 2023 Estate Chardonnay – This charms and surprises with layer upon layer of polished fruit and barrel flavors. Smooth from start to finish, loaded with butterscotch candy goodness, and anchored in perfectly-ripened citrus and stone fruits. Many Oregon Chardonnays are very good; only a handful have the ‘it’ factor – that indefinable je ne c’est quoi aspect to all great wines (and movie stars also). If this had a famous California name attached to it you’d pay a whole lot more and it wouldn’t be any better. 201 cases; 13.3%; $40 (Yamhill-Carlton) 96/100

Shea 2023 Breakaway Pinot Noir – A barrel selection designed to showcase the lightest, prettiest lots of the vintage. Bright acids and Bing cherry fruit are the hallmarks here, backed with textured tannins and subtle highlights of clean hay. It’s a lovely diversion from the big, bold muscular wines that build the reputation of Shea, kind of like a fastball pitcher developing a changeup. Not breaking the mold, just adding to it. 210 cases; 13.8%; $75 (Yamhill-Carlton) 93/100

Shea 2023 Block 7 Pinot Noir –­ All Wadenswil clone grown on a steep, south-facing slope. Juicy and rich, this has a wonderful textured minerality underscoring the ripe black cherry fruit. Acids are plentiful and yet remain in proportion, keeping flavors forward and fresh. Aromas bring strong impressions of red fruits and clean loam; it’s a wine that gives pleasure in all possible directions. Still very young, it should hit a drinking peak in the 2030s. 184 cases; 14.8%; $75 (Yamhill-Carlton) 94/100

Shea 2023 Block 23 Pinot Noir – All Pommard, this punches up all the big, fruity charm of that clone. A broad, detailed palate offers ripe strawberry fruit with a touch of peppery herb. The depth and balance are spot on – every element is balanced against other components in perfect harmony. Nine months in 27% new barrels adds touches of sandalwood framing polished tannins. A lush and lovely Pinot Noir top to bottom. 260 cases; 14%; $75 (Yamhill-Carlton) 95/100

Shea 2023 Block 5 Pinot Noir – Shea’s block selections are clonal selections, naming the wines for the vineyard rather than the single clones they embody. Here it’s Dijon Clone 777, aged nine months in 38% new French oak. Among the last blocks to be harvested, hence the ripest of the current releases, this is the boldest, darkest expression (so far) of the 2023 vintage. Intensely aromatic with a dense mix of flower, fertile soil, black fruits and baking spices. Full and firm, balanced and instantly appealing, further examination will tell what it’s long term future may hold. 187 cases; 14.7%; $75 (Yamhill-Carlton) 96/100

DanCin

DanCin 2024 Cambre Fiano – This southern Italian white wine grape makes a rich, robust wine that could be mistaken for an unoaked Chardonnay. Half was barrel fermented, half fermented in stainless steel. Suggestions of almonds along with citrus and light tropical fruits – pineapple and Meyer lemon in particular – with enough acid to keep it lively and fresh. An interesting and rare (in Oregon) bottle. 54 cases; 13.1%; $35 (Rogue Valley) 91/100

DanCin 2023 Capriccio Chardonnay – Though barrel fermented this is quite light, lively and refreshing. Note the low abv, which keeps the flavors lean and the acids up. Citrus rind, herbal tea and a touch of green pineapple come through. It’s built for near term drinking, perhaps with a good chill on the bottle. 71 cases; 12.6%; $35 (Rogue Valley) 90/100

DanCin 2023 Coda Pinot Noir – This single clone expression is light, tart, elegant and aromatic, with complex notes of truffle, berry and composted earth. Tight and focused, still showing a lot of acid, it brings raspberry fruit and citrus into the center palate. It shows good balance and potential for further development over a decade or so. 95 cases: 13.8%: $43 (Rogue Valley) 91/100

DanCin 2023 Trata Pinot Noir – All whole cluster ferment, single clone 777, one quarter new French oak. Full-flavored, blocky to the point of chunky, with plenty of toast from the barrels. The tannins throw up a stiff wall around the finish, pushing out the acids. This needs aggressive aeration to sync up acids, tannins and barrel flavors. 94 cases; 14.2%; $45 (Rogue Valley) 90/100 (This is slated for a November release)

DanCin 2023 Adagio Pinot Noir – Another single clone offering, this all Wadenswil, one quarter new French oak aging. Aromatics of tea and smoke, an astringent mouthfeel with rhubarb and raspberry fruit, citrus and stone. It has the sort of astringency that concrete fermenters can produce, though no indication that such were used. Reading my rave review of the ’21 I see little connection to this new vintage. 140 cases; 14.1%; $46 (Rogue Valley) 91/100

DanCin 2022 Sorella Barbera – DanCin makes no fewer than four Barbera blends, this one showing the ripest fruit and given more new oak. When first opened, the impact of oak and alcohol are running the palate; after ample aeration blackberry fruit and a wash of mocha come up. It’s got the punch and power to stand up to whatever is on the grill, but don’t look for subtlety here. 169 cases; 15.1%; $60 (Rogue Valley) 90/100

Dunham Cellars

Congratulations on celebrating 30 years of fine wines! Here are the latest releases.

Dunham 2024 Sauvignon Blanc – This is a spicy, lively wine bursting with fresh flavors of pineapple and lime zest. The acids control the palate without dominating, and a flinty, lightly herbaceous finish adds length and texture. 13.5%; $22 (Columbia Valley) 92/100

Dunham 2022 Trutina – This popular blend is half Merlot with Cabernet Sauvignon and Petit Verdot filling out the rest. The brambly blackberry fruit is threaded with greener herbs; the tannins are ripe and focus the finish. Although it’s had some extra bottle age it could benefit from more, as the pieces are not yet wholly synced. 14.2%; $32 (Columbia Valley) 91/100

Dunham 2023 Three Legged Red – Better than ever, this red blend memorializing Eric Dunham’s three-legged dog Port is one of the finest values in the state. The actual blend is not specified, but there seems to be a fair amount of Cabernet, maybe some Merlot and if there is a third component it’s Syrah. Whatever – packed with juicy berries and black fruits, fine-grained tannins, coffee grounds, and new barrel flavors of cut tobacco and toast. No one would believe the price if you put it in a blind tasting with $60 wines. 13.8%; $20 (Washington) 93/100

Dunham 2022 Syrah – This 100% Syrah has the definition and vertical power of Cabernet. That’s not in any way a criticism, as it demonstrates that Washington can produce excellent Syrahs from different AVAs and in varied styles. Here you find a mix of red and black berries, juicy acids and light accents of sage. Drink this now through the end of the decade. 14%; $40 (Columbia Valley) 92/100

Dunham 2020 Lewis Vineyard Syrah – This outstanding single vineyard pure varietal expression explodes with lush, detailed aromatics. Smoked meats, brambly berries, cherry pastry, graphite and espresso are in play, right on through a full-throated palate. Big, powerful, black fruited and firmly tannic, this well-balanced wine got just the right mix of new, used and neutral oak, finishing with touch of cut cedar. Note the vintage – often wrongly denigrated – yet balanced, full-bodied and beautifully expressive. 14.5%; $75 (Columbia Valley) 94/100

Dunham 2021 XXVII Cabernet Sauvignon – Sourced from the Kenny Hill estate vineyard, Lewis estate, Sagemoor and Tokar, this exemplifies the consistency and stewardship of the Dunham winery. Having survived the loss of founding father and son Mike and Eric Dunham more than a decade ago, the wines continue to reflect their legacy under the guidance of Joanne Dunham and General Manager John Blair. Winemaker Robert Campisi came on board in 2008 and worked with Eric and his successor Dan Wampfler (now at Abeja) before being promoted to the top in 2018. This latest roman numeral Cab is aromatic, deep, anchored in cassis and black fruits, and now has two years of bottle age. Just 30% of the barrels were new, with a quarter of them American oak. It’s powerful, tannic and bold, built with the structure to age almost indefinitely. 13.7%; $50 (Columbia Valley) 94/100

From the Cellar - Dunham 2009 Lewis Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon – Eric Dunham was a huge fan of this vineyard and took me to meet the owner way back when. It’s long been the cornerstone of the Roman Numeral Cabs, but here is 100% Lewis grapes. At 15 years along it’s dark and seamless, the color of bull’s blood if you will, scented with grilled meat, toasted herbs and brown spices. For a mid-life Washington Cabernet you couldn’t ask for a lot more – it’s full-bodied, with compact black fruits, polished, lightly grainy tannins, and highlights of pencil lead, coffee grounds and clean earth. No previous review.

Peter William/Pedro Guillermo

Pedro Guillermo 2024 Pinot Gris – Bright, spicy and fresh. A burst of lime and pear fruit, buttressed with mineral-driven acidity. Good texture, balance, weight and length. Made at Barrel 42 with undisclosed, single vineyard Applegate Valley grapes. 224 cases; 13.3%; $19 (Rogue Valley) 90/100

Pedro Guillermo 2023 Tempranillo Tango – A light, pretty, high value wine, sourced from estate grapes. By whatever means the abv was bumped up to 14%, it worked. The wine retains its lightness without seeming at all thin, with clean flavors of red berries and currants. 150 cases; 14%; $19 (Rogue Valley) 90/100

Pedro Guillermo 2023 Robin’s Rumba – A 50/50 Tempranillo/Syrah blend, firm and spicy, with a core of blue plum. Medium concentration and fine focus, with a good balance of acids and tannins. Nothing fancy, but quite pleasurable at a fine price. 250 cases; 13.8%; $19 (Rogue Valley) 90/100

Peter William 2024 Grenache Rosé – Rose gold color, with a generous palate mixing lemon rind, nectarine, green pineapple and peach flavors. It’s soft and smooth, with a buttery finish. 100 cases; 13.2%; $24 (Rogue Valley) 91/100

Peter William 2023 Grenache – Youthful and delightful, this drinks more like a rich Gamay. The juicy, fresh-picked black raspberry flavors burst from the glass, filling the palate. There’s a soda pop aspect to it to be sure, but it’s got more than just fruitiness – minerality, mountain spring freshness, texture and length. 100 cases; 14.9%; $24 (Rogue Valley) 91/100

Peter William 2021 PWV Les Candives Syrah Reserve – Only the second time this has been made (2018 was the first), it’s a dark, gamy, tannic wine – 100% Syrah, aged 21 months in 50% new barrels. The Rogue Valley is under-recognized as an excellent source of Rhône varietals, notably Syrah. This new release, still smoothing out from extended barrel time, is already showing lovely aromatics, polished tannins and fine length. 100 cases; 13.3%; $39 (Rogue Valley) 92/100