Outstanding New Releases from Ponzi Vineyards

This pioneering Oregon winery, now owned by Bollinger, is as good as ever.

The Ponzi family began planting their vineyards in 1970, and their wines have always held a place at the front of the Oregon table. Now under new ownership but still guided by winemaker Luisa Ponzi, the 2019s (and one early 2021) have just been released. These are simply outstanding wines across the portfolio. Luisa Ponzi calls them "truly some of my favorite wines" and this is not an exaggeration. Here are my reviews with scores and further thoughts from Luisa on the sale of the winery and her current responsibilities.

Luisa Ponzi: I remain the winemaker at Ponzi Vineyards. I also oversee the management of all the vineyards (my family maintains ownership on most of the acreage). The transition has been good after being an owner for so many years. The decision to sell was one that we came to after realizing that we had exhausted our abilities (and perhaps desire) to take the winery further, especially in light of the changing wine market and needs that come with that change.

My sister and I felt that we had grown what our parents had started (increased the planted acres, built the beautiful winery on the hill and maintained the quality and integrity of the wines) and we were ready to let someone else take it further. I feel lucky that we found the Bollinger family and even luckier that they wanted me to stay and just manage vineyards and make wine! I still have some spreadsheets, but far less and no sales reports or employee dramas!

So, yes, it was gut-wrenching a bit, but overall it has been wonderful for my parents to see the little winery they started achieve what they had hoped, and confirm Oregon on the world stage of wine growing regions. It is a happy story.”

The new label designs shown here designate different vineyard sources and price tiers

Ponzi 2019 Laurelwood Chardonnay

Creamy, silky and seductive, this is a showcase for the new Laurelwood AVA, tucked inside the Chehalem Mountains AVA. Included are grapes from the Aurora, Avellana and Paloma vineyards. It's buttery soft, with light tropical fruit accented with notes of butterscotch and banana cream pie. Though not especially high in acid, there's enough to give it adequate support through a long and lip-licking finish. 722 cases: 13.2%; $75 (Laurelwood District) 92/100

Ponzi 2019 Aurora Vineyard Chardonnay

The wine opens with bright citrus fruit flavors of Meyer lemon, Mandarin orange and tangerine. The zesty acids lift the palate and bring out seashell highlights underscoring mid-palate and lingering on through the finish. The overall balance is impressive, and suggests a longer than average drinking window ahead. 151 cases; 13.2%; $75 (Laurelwood District) 93/100

Ponzi 2019 Avellana Vineyard Chardonnay

This vineyard, planted in 2006, is dedicated to a pair of Dijon clones. This was part of the re-imagining of Oregon Chardonnay that began back in the 1990s. Now reaching full maturity, it's easily apparent what these French clones bring to the party. This is tight, sculpted, sleek and dense, with sharply defined tree fruits, light spices and a touch of bourbon tea. This wine should develop well over the next 15 years. 165 cases; 13.4%; $75 (Laurelwood District) 94/100

Ponzi 2019 Alloro Vineyard Chardonnay

From the new 'Highlights Collection' this is a great start-up wine. Under their own label the Alloro wines have a long track record of excellence, and here those grapes are spotlighted by one of Oregon's premier pioneering producers. This is stylish, almost steely, focused and dense – the type of Chardonnay that has completely reshaped the state's approach to this universal grape. The fruit flavors (white peach, melon) stay focused on through a long finish, adding details of toasted hazelnuts and white chocolate. 131 cases: 13.3%; $75 (Laurelwood District) 95/100

Ponzi 2021 Laurelwood Pinot Noir

Blended from a passel of outstanding vineyards, many with their own vineyard-designated Pinots, this lovely bottle offers mixed red fruits, satiny tannins, boisterous acids and a balanced and clean finish. What's not to like? Yes, $49 may not seem like a bargain, but put this in the context of top-tier Willamette Valley or French Pinots and it clearly offers a lot of value. If you love Pinot Noir made with taste and elegance, this is a fine choice. 5862 cases; 13.4%; $49 (Laurelwood District) 92/100

Ponzi 2019 Reserve Pinot Noir

There are multiple levels of Ponzi Pinots, this being a cut ahead of the Laurelwood bottling. Comparing the two the reserve shows more new oak, more of a buttery mouthfeel, smoother tannins and deeper fruit flavors. In other words, it justifies the price jump. It's compiled from five different sites, including Avellana, Abetina and Aurora which are used in the single vineyard estate selections. A super-smooth mix of plums, cherries, caramel and chocolate, highlighted with hints of turmeric and cumin, this should drink well through the rest of this decade. 1442 cases; 14%; $75 (Laurelwood District) 93/100

Ponzi 2019 Lazy River Vineyard Pinot Noir

Bright red fruits introduce this solid wine. It's got a firm core of fruit, underscored with lightly savory highlights. The tannins are moderate; it's the acids that take hold of the palate. 112 cases; 14.3%; $110 (Yamhill-Carlton) 92/100

Ponzi 2019 Wahle Vineyard Pinot Noir

The Wahle vineyard, unfamiliar to me, really delivers the goods here. The savory components underlie the purple and black fruits, and the tannins are ripe but smooth. The barrel regimen is undisclosed, but not in any way is the use of new oak intrusive. Light touches of cola, chicory, butterscotch and toasted almonds add depth and detail. Note:  the correct name of the AVA is Eola-Amity Hills, not Eola-Amity or Eola Hills, each of which is called out on the front and back labels. 170 cases; 14%; $110 (Eola-Amity Hills) 94/100

Ponzi 2019 Avellana Vineyard Pinot Noir

A lovely spicy character hits the palate immediately, followed with blackberry and black cherry fruit. As the wine develops on the palate you'll find a gentle mix of toast, cinnamon, Indian spices and butter. This is the sort of wine that emphasizes the subtle elegance of Pinot Noir, and blooms open with ample aeration. 184 cases; 14.1%; $110 (Laurelwood District) 94/100

Ponzi 2019 Aurora Vineyard Pinot Noir

At almost thirty years of age this vineyard is beginning to express delicate old vine characteristics. More subtlety, length and detail are noted from the beguiling aromatics to the layered finish. Strawberries and cherries, mocha and caramel, chocolate and more make this my favorite of the flight. 185 cases; 14.3%; $110 (Laurelwood District) 95/100