Outstanding New 2021 Pinots From Elk Cove
Heads up - these sell out quickly!
At long last many of the Willamette Valley’s brightest stars who more or less skipped past the fraught 2020 vintage are releasing and/or previewing their 2021s. Elk Cove is one – the website lists the 2021 Estate and 2021 Mount Richmond as currently available. The 2021 Clay Court and 2021 Five Mountain are not yet posted (2019s are sold out). Here are my reviews on all four. I’d jump on the Five Mountain first and foremost so worth inquiring now.
Elk Cove 2021 Estate Pinot Noir
This draws from all six estate vineyards, and one sniff erases all the smoke and angst of the 2020 vintage. It's fresh and fragrant with mixed berries, particularly flavors of just-picked marionberries, and lively with minerally acids. It spent 10 months in barrel, just long enough to pull itself together and add a gentle touch of caramel to the finish. 20000 cases; 13.5%; $32 (Willamette Valley) 91/100
Elk Cove 2021 Clay Court Pinot Noir
Strawberry and raspberry fruits bounce up from the glass, a lively burst of springtime energy. The wine is balanced and approachable, fruit forward with a spicy edge. Aged 10 months in 20% new French oak and bottled last summer, it's young but nicely knitted together, and right for a springtime picnic, maybe between matches on your favorite clay tennis court. 13.5%; $85? (Chehalem Mountains) 92/100
Elk Cove 2021 Mount Richmond Pinot Noir
This is Elk Cove's largest estate vineyard with over 150 acres in vine. Now fully mature it presents a complex, multi-layered wine that sets the lush Pommard fruit against the more precise and deep flavors of the Dijon clones. A mix of blackberries, marionberries and blueberries, backed with juicy acids, this rolls into a juicy finish with black cherry, tobacco and a hint of licorice. 13.5%; $70 (Yamhill-Carlton) 93/100
Elk Cove 2021 Five Mountain Pinot Noir
A part of this vineyard dates back to 1978, originally planted to Pommard clone Pinot by the Ponzi family. These old vines remain contributors to the blend. Despite its youth (and perhaps thanks to the old vines) this shows power and depth, and the mix of berry and cherry fruits is set in an ageworthy frame of acid/tannin/barrel components. As I wrote in my review of the 2019, it’s important to note the inherent angularity and overall finesse of the wine. It’s structured and fine-tuned for aging, yet utterly delicious right out of the bottle. 13.5%; $70 (Laurelwood District) 94/100