New Releases, New Tasting Room From Avennia
Chris Peterson continues to craft bold, powerful, exceptional red wines
In a recent profile of Liminal wines I covered one of winemaker Chris Peterson’s cutting edge brands. Avennia is another one that is carving out an important place in the current pantheon of great Washington reds, and especially Cabernets.
A native of the Pacific Northwest, Chris graduated from the University of Washington majoring in the Comparative History of Ideas. He went on to become the first graduate of Walla Walla Community College’s Enology and Viticulture program, where he taught classes on wines of the world with the late instructor and industry pioneer Stan Clarke.
Chris spent seven years working alongside Chris Upchurch at DeLille Cellars. He has visited many of the major wine growing regions of France (as well as Tuscany and Sicily). “Old world inspiration, proudly Washington” Avennia’s website proclaims, and the wines live up to that promise. With business partner Marty Taucher, Avennia was launched in 2010. Those first wines were released in 2012 to instant acclaim.
Total Avennia production is up to about 4000 cases, enough to open a third tasting room, this one in the heart of downtown Walla Walla (due to debut any day now). Last week Peterson and I sat down and tasted through current and upcoming releases. A couple of these I previously reviewed (as noted). I include those notes here again.
Avennia 2022 Sauvignon Blanc – Roughly two thirds Boushey and one third Red Willow fruit, 100% varietal, and barrel fermented in neutral wood. The time in barrel has not taken away the edgy acids, which set up the palate with a burst of citrus. Flavors of lemon, lime and grapefruit give this a solid fruit core, continuing on through a brisk, crisp, clean, fresh, lingering finish. It's a fine-tuned wine that is a clear-eyed study in unadorned Washington Sauvignon Blanc. 12.6%; $30 (Yakima Valley) 91/100
Avennia 2021 Justine Red Wine – This GSM is 65% Grenache (Upland vineyard old block), 20% Mourvèdre (Kiona Heart of the Hill) and 15% Syrah (Boushey). It saw no new oak, fermented mostly in puncheon and concrete egg. It's fragrant, sturdy and concentrated, with good length and a peppery finish. The core fruit flavors –cassis and black cherry – come with an alcoholic kick and drying, astringent tannins. Due for a September release. 14.6%; $40; (Yakima Valley) 91/100
Avennia 2021 Boushey Vineyard Arnaut Syrah – I've long felt that the Boushey vineyard, west of Red Mountain and just outside the AVA, is one of Washington's best sites for Syrah. These grapes come from the oldest blocks, planted in 1994 and 1996. Young, spicy, peppery and dark, this wine clearly needs more time to pull itself together and let its flavors bloom. After a full day it began to show more aromatic detail – violets and brambly berries – though the palate remained stubbornly compact. Along with the astringent tannins come streaks of licorice, coffee grounds and moist earth, but I suspect the best years for drinking this wine are at the end of this decade. 14.8%; $60 (Yakima Valley) 92/100
Avennia 2020 Valery Red – This Right Bank Bordeaux-style blend is 88% Boushey vineyard Merlot with Champoux Cabernet Franc filling out the rest. Two thirds was fermented in concrete; the finished wine was aged 21 months in 28% new French oak. This is A++ material for such a mid-priced Washington red which keeps pace with this state's finest Merlots. The time in concrete adds texture and an impression of minerality, while the new oak aging puts a lightly toasty frame around the cassis and dark chocolate core. This serious, substantial, cellar-worthy Merlot should have at least 15 years of life ahead. (Reviewed in March '23) 216 cases; 14.6%; $50 (Columbia Valley) 94/100
Avennia 2020 Sestina Cabernet Sauvignon – This Bordeaux blend is 77% Cabernet Sauvignon, 17% Merlot and 6% Cabernet Franc from old vine Bacchus, Dionysus and Red Willow grapes. More than half was fermented in concrete, and the finished wine was aged 21 months in 50% new French oak. It's beautifully structured, powerful yet restrained, the ripe black fruits finished with powdery tannins. The tail seems dusted with cocoa, and with ample aeration it drinks well and seamlessly. This is a cellar worthy wine by any standard, but decant it for an hour or so and it opens right up. Second day – holds steady. (Reviewed in March '23) 388 cases; 14.8%; $75 (Columbia Valley) 93/100
Avennia 2021 Estate Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon – This limited release from Avennia's estate vineyard (the old Taptiel site atop Red Mountain, now managed by Dick Boushey) is a paean to purity. Single variety from a great site in an AVA that is the epicenter for Washington Cabernet; what's not to like? Dense, concentrated flavors of black cherry, cassis, espresso and licorice. Limited production; 14.6%; $75 (Red Mountain) 93/100
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