My Highly Curated Holiday Wine Gift Guide!

Bonus! High value, low cost new releases from Bergström, Pike Road and Radix

I am not one to pass by a gift-giving opportunity. If you’re having a birthday, you’re getting a card. If you’re a friend or neighbor, you’ll find something delicious coming your way this holiday season. This time of year is when gift-giving opportunities abound. ‘Tis better to give than... you know the rest. So here is a list of ideas to get you going. I’m including some very practical items, some stupidly fun items, examples of winery gift packages and a seasonal bread to die for. So... here we go!

File these under ‘Essential Wine Tools’

Waiter’s Double-hinged Corkscrew – Almost any tasting room will sell these, imprinted with the winery logo. You don’t need to spend a lot of money on something extra fancy. In fact some of the really pricey ones (made out of exotic woods, or by a famous knife brand) are not really very practical. Look at the name on the metal hinge – truetap and pulltaps are good brands. You want the double hinge and the corkscrew itself (the worm) should be Teflon covered to prolong the life of the tool ($10 – $15).

The Durand – Go ahead and complain about the cost but if you struggle to open old wines with dicey corks, and especially valuable old bottles worth far more than the cost of this device, it’s clear that this is worth every penny. It combines the virtues of a regular corkscrew and an ah-so, and is far better than either of them when they are used alone. It doesn’t just extract the cork – it prevents it from breaking, crumbling or shredding. The machine tooling on the Durand is excellent and once you get the hang of it, it’s a pleasure to use ($145).

Stemware – I cannot overstate the importance of good stemware. Drinking good wine out of sub-par glasses is a waste. Would you play a fine Taylor guitar with corroded, oxidized strings? You could, but it wouldn’t give you the sound it is built for. A wine, no matter how good, will not deliver all its scents and flavors if it’s served in a glass that’s too small, too thick, or (god forbid) any color other than clear. Listen, you do not have to spend a lot to get serviceable glasses, nor do you need a different glass for every type of wine. My favorite all-purpose go-to glass is Gabriel Glas. It comes in machine blown and hand blown versions. Go with the machine blown – it’s half the cost and less fragile ($68/set of two). I can hand wash these and they are surprisingly sturdy.

Just a step down in price (per stem) are the Italesse Universal Red Wine Glasses (6 for $110). I’ve become quite fond of these for a variety or red wines, including Pinot Noir. The Gabriels give a more refined bouquet, the Italesse puts more power in the fruit. Both very fine. For less expensive options I suggest Libbey Signature Kentfield Estate ($45/set of 4) or Spiegelau Salute Red Wine Glasses ($34/set of 4) – both at Amazon. Best value of all is this Crate & Barrel special – Aspen 20-Oz. All-Purpose Big Wine Glasses ($36.76/set of 8). Please avoid any and all stemless, tinted or logo’ed glasses. Look for glasses that hold at least 12 ounces (bigger is better), rounded and clear, with stems with no lip. Stay away from those with odd shapes and sharp angles.

Le Creuset Champagne Star – Do you ever find it almost impossible to twist the cork on a bottle of bubbly? It happens all the time with recently bottled domestic sparklers. You’ve chilled the wine, carefully removed the wire cage, covered the bottle with a towel and grabbed hold of the cork to give it a turn. And… nothing. It won’t budge. This is especially true of non-Champagne fizz – the cheaper the wine, the stuck-er the cork. This well-designed device fits the grooves in the top of the cork and easily turns it. Le Creuset ($38). A similar product is sold by Vacu Vin ($25). And while you’re over there, pick up a pair of Vacu Vin Rapid Ice Chilling Sleeves ($33/set of two). I keep a couple of these in my freezer ready to slip on any wine that needs a quick chill. They are great hot weather tools, fast and easy to use. For an even faster cool down put the bottle back in the freezer with the sleeve on. That will give you a perfect temperature in five minutes or less.

Decanters – These need not be expensive. Check out Goodwill or any local thrift shop and look for a clear glass, unstained, chip-free pitcher that is big enough to hold a full bottle of wine. It should have a pouring spout. If you can spend a few bucks more most antique stores will have real cut glass decanters with attractive tops. Make sure the top matches the bottom (often they are mismatched). ($5 – $50).

And now, the fun stuff! Starting with wine puzzles.

Do a search for “wine-themed jigsaw puzzles” and many good options show up. I can’t say I’ve tried them all – well actually, I’ve tried none so far (but I do have a birthday coming up)... Simply based on the presumed quality and creativity I really like the one on the left from Puzzle Warehouse:  https://www.puzzlewarehouse.com/wine-gallery-1000-pieces-by-piatnik/($21). For the minimalist puzzler there’s this one pictured on the right from fineartamerica  ($40).

Single wine bottle stands for your table top come in myriad designs. If you want a wine gift for a cat lover, dog lover, flamingo lover... you name it, a quick search will turn up many options. I’m not generally smitten with gnomes, but I have to say this Starsoul Gnomes Wine Rack Single Wine Bottle Holder made me chuckle, and at the moment Amazon’s got it with a 30% off coupon here.

Also on Amazon: the Funny Wine Stopper Silicone Wine Caps Set . There are many different options but this one is a favorite as it comes with bow tie wine glass markers ($12.99).

On to the obvious. Pretty much all your favorite wineries are offering special holiday gift packages. Here are a couple from Washington. For Twin Peaks fans Kyle MacLachlan has the “Give Yourself a Present” gift set – a bottle of 2021 Pursued by Bear Cabernet along with a cherry pie-scented and a coffee-scented candle ($149). Or try this Taste of the Northwest set ($125) from Novelty Hill-Januik with a bottle of Chardonnay, a bottle of Cabernet, a savory jam, a tin of smoked salmon and a small box of Fran’s chocolates. If you’re visiting any tasting rooms during the upcoming Thanksgiving or Barrel Tasting weekends, be sure to inquire about their special gift packs.

In England and Australia some shops and wineries put together 12 day Advent Wine Collections containing a bottle of wine for each of  the 12 days. I searched in vain for something along those lines here in the U.S. But cocktail lovers are in luck with this “12 Nights of Cocktails” package ($60) from Portland’s Straightaway Cocktails.

We all have friends who don’t need more stuff. They already own every wine gadget ever invented. We accumulate throughout life; for most of us it’s time to get rid of things, not add to them. So the gift of great food is the best option for such fortunate folks. The Olivieri 1882 Panettone may be the most expensive dessert bread you’ll ever buy, and I’m guessing that you won’t regret it for a moment. In fact you’ll probably want two – one to gift and one to eat. Start with the traditional ‘Classic’ Panettone – natural sourdough put through a 48-hour double fermentation. It’s far lighter than a fruitcake, yet profoundly flavorful. Sliced thin and eaten plain or toasted, it’s delicious. When kept wrapped and stored it will last for a week without losing flavor or becoming stale. For a big holiday feast you just heat up the whole loaf and serve it right out of the oven – it will serve 10 -12 people and could be the foundation of a killer dessert with a scoop of vanilla ice cream and a dribble of raspberry sauce. There are 24 different flavors available, and can be purchased here ($90 – $130).

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Bergström

I published extensive reviews of Bergström wines a couple of weeks ago. These wines are in demand, and a few of those reviews came out just as vintages were changing. Here is an update. The Old Stones and Cumberland Reserve wines are widely available and should not be missed.

Bergström 2022 Old Stones Chardonnay – The Old Stones never disappoints. It’s sappy, sexy and absolutely delicious. The fruits run from citrus to apple to pineapple and beyond, with beautifully balanced acids and a nice touch of new oak. Finished dry, even tart, and loaded with tangy citrus and apple fruit, minerally highlights and a smooth finish. The details and texture are world class, and from start to finish, year in and year out, this wine will rock your world. 1412 cases; 13.4%; $55 (Willamette Valley) 95/100

Bergström 2022 Sigrid Chardonnay – This is already sold out, sorry, but for those lucky enough to have a bottle, here are my notes. Sensational is not too strong a word, given the depth and detail of this wine. Compact and powerful, this has Burgundian tension and electricity. It’s dense to such a degree that trying to unpack individual flavors is foolish – this is the sort of wine that should be tasted over days and aged over many years. 13.5%; $125 (Willamette Valley) 98/100

Bergström 2023 Cumberland Reserve Pinot Noir – This is the winery’s Willamette Valley blend, a supple and accessible wine with scents of bruised berries and racy raspberry and blueberry fruit flavors. It smoothes out through a languid finish, like kayaking down a quiet river. Lively and laced with mocha and sassafras, this delightful wine is a great choice for drinking through the rest of the decade. 13.3%; $55 (Willamette Valley) 93/100

Bergström 2022 Le Pré du Col Vineyard Pinot Noir – Honestly I think Ribbon Ridge wines often baffle the big mag national reviewers who blow through the Pacific Northwest and taste hundreds of wines in a couple of days. Not a knock on them – they are working rigorous tasting schedules that take them through myriad locations in a short period of time. But wines such as this require extra attention, a bit of experience, and the ability to put them in a meaningful context. Pinot Noir at its finest is supremely elegant. It whispers, it does not scream. The old saying “a velvet glove in an iron fist” is sometimes applicable. But above all great Pinot needs your time and attention. This is one such wine. It’s threaded with berries, herbs, citrus, spice, all in concert and compact. A wine to cellar, but if you must jump in now give it a lot of time in a decanter. 13.2%; $110 (Ribbon Ridge) 96/100

Pike Road

The sister label to Elk Cove continues to grow and offer new single vineyard selections along with value-priced, all-purpose winners such as the Pinot Gris.

Pike Road 2023 Pinot Gris – Lightly flowery and bursting with lush apple, citrus and pear fruit, this all-stainless wine can’t help but please. Perfect for holiday hams and fowls, or as a starter wine with apps and cheeses. Highly versatile, screw-capped and immaculately fresh. 3654 cases; 13.5%; $17 (Willamette Valley) 92/100

Pike Road 2023 Chardonnay – The crisp, clean fruit is the star here, a mix of apples, jicama radish and lemon zest. There’s a splash of mineral water underlying the fruit and enhancing the overall freshness. You’ll sense a hint of white pepper as it rolls through the finish. 3420 cases; 13%; $20 (Willamette Valley) 91/100

Pike Road 2022 Quandary Vineyard Chardonnay – A new vineyard that gets the star treatment – 20% new oak, extra time in bottle – and rewards tasters with an elegant wine showing beautiful texture, minerality and spice. There’s plenty of apple fruit, along with apple skins and touches of grapefruit. The finish suggests that further aeration will bring out additional spice and barrel toast. 200 cases; 13%; $34 (Yamhill-Carlton) 91/100

Pike Road 2023 Pinot Noir Rosé – Produced with free run Pinot Noir juice, this light and lovely rosé shows, watermelon, strawberries and citrus fruit, wrapped together in a firm core with supporting acids. All stainless fermented, screwcap seal, ready to go. 686 cases; 13.5%; $17 (Willamette Valley) 90/100

Pike Road 2022 Fennwood Vineyard Pinot Noir – Firmly rooted in cranberry fruit with clean earth underscoring it, this is compact to the edge of impenetrable. But after being open for a full 24 hours, bang, it powered into focus. Bright and punchy, with the cranberry fruit now mixed in with juicy orange and pineapple, alive with vivid acidity, it really was delicious. 200 cases; 14%; $50 (Yamhill-Carlton) 92/100

Pike Road 2022 Matteri Vineyard Pinot Noir – Opens with a nice mix of red currants, raspberries, a whiff of barrel toast, and hints of baking spices as the wine breathes. In the mouth there’s a sparkling mineral water texture – not bubbly, but lively and fresh – that keeps the fruit buoyant through the finish. 200 cases; 13.5%; $50 (Yamhill-Carlton) 91/100

Pike Road 2022 Shea Vineyard Pinot Noir – Big and blocky, with chunky cherry fruit holding down the core. It’s ringed with lightly funky soil flavors and a dash of coffee grounds. Solid through the finish. As with all these 2022 Pike Road single vineyard Pinots, it’s shut tight at first and needs plenty of breathing time. When fully open it’s a gem, adding hints of black olive, sandalwood and pipe tobacco to the trailing finish. 400 cases; 14%; $50 (Yamhill-Carlton) 93/100

Radix

Every once in awhile a shipment of wines arrives about which I have no clue. I suspect I’m not the only one who has never heard of Radix. But especially for a certain type of palate, and especially right now, these are wines to know. As my notes show these are big, tannic, high abv wines. There has obviously been a lot of care and $$ invested in the packaging, yet they are being sold at Black Friday prices. You’ll see a number of wines that were released years ago, yet all are still available. I reached out to winemaker/owner Marco De Santis to get the back story.

He writes “My goal has always been to create mostly blends using grape varieties that share genetic roots (Radix being Latin for ‘root’). My family's roots in Washington state go back to my great grandfather who traveled all the way to Tacoma from a tiny village in central Italy in 1904 to work on the railroad. After 111 years, I returned to my roots in Washington to pursue a dream to create a small winery focused on Red Mountain.”

PG:  Marco opened Radix in 2015 with the help of Josh Maloney at the Wahluke Wine Company (a custom crush facility). But things quickly went south. A business partner bailed, Marco moved back to Ohio to be closer to family, then Covid shut down restaurant sales. Marco goes on to say “the online wine marketplace became saturated and everyone was competing for clicks. With an extremely tiny marketing budget and very small online presence, stagnation ensued. So for the last couple vintages I have not produced any wine and have been trying to focus on reaching out to those on my mailing list and getting back into a regular flow with the distributors.”

I feel sorry for Marco, who obviously put his heart and soul (and wallet) into this enterprise. But sadly, I’ve seen this play before. Even the best wines don’t always find their market. I’m recommending these wines because they are very good, they are very cheap, and hopefully your support will help Marco get back on his feet.

Radix 2019 Red Blend  – This was made to sell on-premise by the glass. It’s a mix of Cabernet, Syrah, Cab Franc and Petite Sirah, and carries the Red Mountain AVA. It’s a stunning value that should be snapped up immediately. Clearly made with high end fruit, fully ripened and now with several years of bottle age, it’s a dark, dense, well-conceived blend with Cabernet in the leading role. The Syrah adds spice and the Petite Sirah pumps up the tannins. Everything works. Black fruits, smoke, char, coffee, black olives, black tea, tobacco... this is a three ring circus of a wine and may be the value of the year. 15%; $20 (Red Mountain) 93/100

Radix 2017 Dexter Cabernet Sauvignon/Cabernet Franc – Roughly two thirds/one third, co-fermented, and despite the high abv this wine retains good proportions, doesn’t burn, and would work well with a roast or steak. The fruit does not show exceptional ripeness, but it’s ripe enough, with a mix of cassis and currant, coffee and savory highlights. The grapes were co-fermented, and there seems to have been a significant amount of skin contact. Aged 21 months in 29% new French oak. 167 cases; 15.5%; $48 (Red Mountain) 92/100

Radix 2018 Carménère (sic)/Cabernet Sauvignon/Cabernet Franc – Principally Carmenère with small amounts of the two Cabs, this is reminiscent of the handful of truly excellent versions of that grape from producers such as Reininger. Ripened and balanced, with a pleasing mix of black fruits, streaks of espresso and a dark, toasty frame, it has had extra years of bottle age and is in a perfect drinking window. 137 cases; 15%; $38 (Red Mountain) 93/100

Radix 2021 Wheatfield Vines Vineyard Sangiovese/Syrah – A 50/50 blend, this moderates and melds both varieties to craft a flavorful, unusual red wine. It’s broad across the palate, with a mix of red currant and berry. Acids are subtle and tannins are firm, but everything works, with some peppery herbs adding a little pizzazz to the finish. Two years in one quarter new French oak. 92 cases; 15%; $30 (Walla Walla Valley) 92/100

Radix 2021 Red Heaven Vineyard Petite Sirah – There’s a Syrah-like spice to this wine although it’s not Syrah. Big, full-bodied and loaded with ripe blackberry fruit, it spent two years in half new American oak puncheons and half neutral French oak, giving it that bold hit of pungent spice. A rare example of 100% Red Mountain Petite Sirah, it’s a ‘PS I Love You’ type wine at a very reasonable price. 104 cases; 15%; $30 (Red Mountain) 92/100

Radix 2016 Laevus Syrah/Petite Sirah – The grapes are co-fermented, which seems to be the standard at Radix. The abv hits a robust 15.5%, ensuring that this is a dense, thick, dark, tannic wine start to finish. Add to that it’s eight years post-crush and four years post-release, and time has given it a chance to soften the edges and meld the fruit, tannins and barrel spice. It’s in a fine drinking window, which might well extend through the rest of this decade. The Red Heaven vineyard on Red Mountain was the source of the grapes. 237 cases; 15.5%; $48 (Red Mountain) 93/100

My favorite Thanksgiving cartoon of all time from the amazing Roz Chast.

I’m wishing all my Subscribers a very happy Thanksgiving! Let’s all give thanks and raise a glass to all the writers who make Substack such a success. I will take a week off from wine notes and post up a special recording next Thursday that I’m sure you’ll enjoy. Then back in December with my annual ‘Best of the Northwest’ list and many more reviews of great wines from the Pacific Northwest.

Cheers,

Paul