Métier and Pike Road: Sister – Not Second! – Labels

For different reasons, these new projects from DeLille and Elk Cove add value to their founders

Longtime Washington wine drinkers surely know DeLille Cellars, one of the first and still one of the foremost small brands to make Woodinville its home. Now entering its fourth decade, DeLille has grown and those in charge have changed, but the quality remains.

Métier was introduced into the DeLille lineup in 2005 as a GSM blend. That wine under the DeLille label is now named Le Dessein. With the release of three new wines under a striking new label design, Métier now is its own specific brand. Though priced below the wines from DeLille, in no way do the Métier wines seem second rate. The intention, the winery notes, is to bring greater awareness to Washington's Columbia Valley AVA, and to open the door for new accounts while introducing DeLille to a broader range of consumers. The three wines listed below seem on track to meet those goals. They will expand the footprint, lower the cost of entry, and reflect the quality and care of the founding winery.

Details here.

Métier 2022 Sauvignon Blanc – This affordable, screwcapped, summery white wine has a disarming elegance. Lightly floral, lightly grassy, almost delicate in the mouth, it's built for easy access and versatility. Though low in alcohol it's got ample body and balance, with acids that don't pucker but do refresh. 3500 cases; 12.2%; $20 (Columbia Valley) 90/100

Métier 2021 Red Blend – This is a classic Washington-style blend of 55% Syrah, 32% Cabernet Sauvignon and 13% Merlot. Black fruits, toast and espresso flavors jump out, backed with impressively ripe and soft tannins. Broad across the palate, its blackberry fruit is highlighted with accents of tanned leather, sandalwood and white pepper. It falls away gently with a savory trail of herbs. 6500 cases; 14.4%; $25; (Columbia Valley) 91/100

Métier 2021 Cabernet Sauvignon – This pure varietal strikes a perfect chord of fruit, tannin and barrel. The undisclosed sources may or may not include some sites that DeLille uses in their Cabernet-based wines, in addition to "up-and-coming vineyards from Candy Mountain". Here you'll find the precision, balance and muscular frame that DeLille's reds are known for. Supple, savory and full-bodied, this does not shy away from herbal influences around its core flavors of cassis and coffee. Aged in 40% new French oak, it rises well above its price point in quality. 15000 cases; 13.9%; $30; (Columbia Valley) 91/100

Pike Road is the sister winery to Elk Cove. Named for a real road on the western edge of the Willamette Valley, it runs adjacent to Elk Cove's vineyards. Second gen winemaker Adam Campbell works with Australian ex-pat Heather Perkin to make these wines. Initially the brand featured well-made, inexpensive varietal wines sourced from non-estate vineyards. The first Pike Road wines I tasted were a Pinot Gris, a Chardonnay and a Pinot Noir from the 2015 vintage, all priced at or below $20. Almost a decade later, the brand has dramatically expanded, but those wines are still the anchor, and believe it or not their prices have actually dropped.

Pike Road 2022 Pinot Gris – The fresh, ripe, lively fruit flavors showcase pears in particular, with further highlights of orange and grapefruit. The natural acidity adds a sleek 'cut' to the palate, accented with a hint of wet stone. This wine has the extra 'it' factor that ramps up its intensity and sheer deliciousness. As I have noted in past vintages, this is a fruit-packed white wine for sipping summer and fall. Tasted over three full days, it was one of those wines that I happily drank down to the last drop. I'd suggest that you hang onto a few bottles for that Thanksgiving turkey. 5000 cases; 13%; $17 (Willamette Valley) 93/100

Pike Road 2021 Chardonnay – Pike Road has jumped into a much-needed category for Willamette Valley wineries – varietal wines from top tier fruit priced under $20. Make no mistake – I love Oregon Chardonnays, though often the finest examples are priced well beyond the pocketbooks of most wine drinkers. This is done in a lighter style, given just the merest hint of new oak, but spends enough time in mostly neutral wood to avoid the overly bright harshness that can sometimes come with all-stainless fermentation. Lovely flavors of cucumber, green melon and banana, coupled with a finishing touch of butter, pull this into focus through a lingering finish. The screwcap ensures freshness and no musty notes. 4012 cases; 13%; $18 (Willamette Valley) 91/100

Pike Road 2022 Pinot Noir Rosé – Produced with free run Pinot Noir juice, this stylish rosé fills the palate with flavors of mint, bubblegum, watermelon and white strawberries. Give it a good chill to bring up the energy and sharpen the acids. It has wonderful persistence even after being open a full 24 hours. Although I don't often recommend aging rosé, this is one that should do quite well over the next two or three years. 686 cases; 13%; $17 (Willamette Valley) 91/100

Pike Road 2021 Pinot Noir – This is the least expensive Pike Road Pinot Noir among the 17 (!) that are currently listed for sale on the winery website. All stainless steel fermentation keeps costs down and livelies up the fruit. Beetroot and bright berry flavors, along with juicy acids, are the story here. It's fresh, clean and crisp; a no-frills style and a fine value. 13397 cases; 13.5%; $20 (Willamette Valley) 90/100

In recent vintages a growing number of single vineyard selections have been added to the Pike Road lineup. Here are two of the finest.

Pike Road 2021 Temperance Hill Vineyard Pinot Noir – This cool site is a good match for Elk Cove's estate vineyards, showing savory/floral highlights around tightly wound, wild berry fruit. Just a touch of new French oak adds hints of spice and tobacco through the finish. Dark-fruited and slightly earthy, this lovely wine will need decanting to show its best. Not yet listed online. 166 cases; 13.5%; $50 (Eola-Amity Hills) 93/100

Pike Road 2021 Shea Vineyard Pinot Noir – Made since 2017, the Shea bottling sees roughly one fifth new oak. As expected it's big, bold, dark and blocky, with plentiful blackberry and black cherry fruit. I love the texture and depth of this wine, which layers in subtle shades of clean earth, pipe tobacco, black olive, anise, coffee grounds and... well the deeper you dive, the more you find. Not yet listed online. 351 cases; 13.5%; $50 (Yamhill-Carlton) 94/100

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