In Leading Pacific NW Wineries The Pendulum has Swung From High To Low ABVs

Eila’s Peter Sturm talks the how and why of making low abv wines; wrapping up reviews of the magnificent 2022 Patricia Green wines

For most of the 25 years I reviewed wines for Wine Enthusiast, finished alcohol (abv) was not included. Although I talked to any number of NW winemakers about their red wines frequently topping 15% (and sometimes 16%) abv, I kept my opinions out of any reviews. The magazine did ask for abv to be listed on the paper forms, but those numbers did not show up in print. So I’m relying on memory when I tell you that back in the early 2000s it was not only common, it was even a matter of some pride, to make red wines, and especially Pinot Noirs, with extraordinarily high alcohol.

In part you can blame Robert Parker, whose reviews seemed always to favor super dark, rich, ripe wines, whatever the grape. In part there was a feeling that Pinot Noir, being naturally light in color, suffered from the perception that a light color meant a weak wine. In part it came down to vineyard management. The fine tuning of irrigation, leaf pulling trellising, pruning, clonal selection and so on was barely begun. The goal as often as not was to punch up the sugars before the rains came and diluted your grapes.

And let’s not forget the impact of consumer preferences and the power of the trade, all of which favored big wines over elegant wines. David Lett, the ‘Papa Pinot’ of Oregon winemaking, would rail about such excess, complaining that with all the oak and alcohol the wines tasted like Coca-Cola. And he wasn’t wrong. More than a few Pinots of the time could easily be mistaken for Syrah. And the problem wasn’t just Pinot Noir. Washington Cabernets and Bordeaux varietals, Chardonnays from anywhere – indeed any wine that could be aged in 100% (sometimes 200%!) new oak – suffered the consequences.

As a reviewer, though such wines went completely against my personal preferences, I strove to be as objective as possible, relying on the concept of balance to determine quality. If a young, super ripe, rich and oaky wine presented itself as balanced, at least for the moment, I’d give it the best possible review. I would also note that such wines had a very limited future as far as maintaining that balance. I’d compare it to a trained bear on a high wire – balanced at the moment, but for how long?

In the past decade the script has flipped. More and more winemakers, especially those with new projects, are leaning hard in the other direction. Among the many small start-ups here in Walla Walla I’ve written about a dozen or more whose wines, white and red, rarely hit 13% abv. In Oregon I’m seeing the same trend. And it’s much more impressive than simply a lower abv and much less (if any) use of new oak. The wines themselves are beautifully aromatic, elegant, layered, lingering and even powerful. Not only do they not suffer a bit of under-ripeness (I’m talking about the best of them, not all of them), they are far more complete, expressive, ageworthy and delicious wines, both whites and reds, than what was available a quarter century ago. I believe that David Lett would love these next gen Oregon Pinots, and so do I.

I was chewing on these thoughts while tasting the remarkable 2022 releases from Eila. This is just the second vintage of Peter Sturn’s wines I’ve tasted, and wow did they impress. Sturn grew up in Chicago, and moved to London as a young grad student. While there he developed an interest in wine, and fine-tuned his palate on Premier Cru Burgundies and classified growth Bordeaux before returning to the States. He interned at Ayoub in 2019, and worked with a number of other Oregon winemakers before starting his own project at the Carlton Winemakers Studio. His Eila wines are made in small batches –one and a half or two ton fermenters for the Pinots, barrels for the Chards. Ambient/native yeast fermentation, pigeage to break up the whole clusters and pump overs to avoid excessive extraction. The wines are generally not fined or filtered.

The aim, in Sturn’s words, is “to create light, intense, complex, elegant wines, as dictated by the vineyards and nature. Harvesting dates are chosen to retain acidity/freshness balanced with phenolic ripeness and maintaining moderate alcohol levels.” I contacted him for some follow-up thoughts on the latest releases.

PG:  I’d like to get your thoughts on finished abv numbers, on your wines and on the impact that such low abv figures have on aromatics, detail, length and ageability of the wines. You noted that the ‘22s were lower even than the ‘21s, and this is a trend I’ve seen over the past decade. More and more wineries are keeping abv numbers way down, a complete reversal from the style of wines (esp. Pinot Noir) that I was seeing 20 years ago.

PS (via email 10/14/24) “I do aim to pick earlier than average as I believe the fruit should not be fully ripe to achieve more complex flavors in both Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, which happily also results in lower sugars/alcohol and higher acids (along with using cooler sites, whole cluster and clonal diversity). That said, the 2022s were all picked quite late in the calendar season (all in October, up until the end of the month for Prophet vineyard) so the sub-13% alcohol across the board for my wines was certainly partly due to the overall vintage. In 2023, due to the heat spike around harvest, I picked early for Oregon but my wines are all in the 13.0-13.5% range – higher than I envisioned but again true to the vintage.”

PG:  How did your time living and tasting wines in Europe impact the development of your palate?

PS:  My wine journey came from living in Europe, and for much of that time temperatures were still cool and Burgundy winemakers still regularly chaptalized just to get to 12-13%. So I think of elegant, herbaceous, not overtly fruity, perfumed, low abv wines when I think of what my ideal Pinot Noir should be, and what I’m now aiming for at Eila. Note I didn’t drink much US wine at the time – pricing was higher and availability was low, so I have less familiarity with what Pinots here were like then but I have had a lot of very fruity high alcohol US Pinot Noirs over the years, and they are not to my taste. I never had an issue with ageability, length, or aromatics with the older Euro wines at the time. I no longer attend the Burgundy en primeur events so I don’t have a good view on how Burgundy is faring with higher temperatures these past few years, but I understand alcohol is trending higher there as a result (and the days of chaptalization long gone).

PG:  Any thoughts on how abv impacts aging potential?

PS:  I have had aging issues with high alcohol Napa Cabs and US Pinot Noirs. I find wines age more gracefully at a lower alcohol and higher acidities. When I started up my project, I looked to wineries like Littorai and Ceritas, whose wines generally are under 13% alcohol and age fantastically well. So while lower alcohol is not a primary focus of mine, it is a pleasant side effect of how I look to make the wine to achieve what I think a great Pinot Noir or Chardonnay should be – in my mind high alcohol and elegance are contrary attributes. I’ve also noted that whole cluster contributes significantly to aromatics, more so than abv, although I don’t know the chemistry behind it. I’m working on getting to 100% whole cluster with most of my wines, but I’ve yet to go over 50% to date (had a 100% WC puncheon trial in 2022 that did not work out well), which is where most of my 2023s and 2024s are at.

PG:  Apart from the wines you are making at Eila, what trends do you see?

PS:  Beyond Pinot Noir, I’m happy that there are now some winemakers looking to make cooler climate style Syrahs and Cabernets. I like Savage Grace wines in Washington. Ceritas’s Cabernets are my favorite out of California (and are around 13%), while the newer Model Farm has been making more elegant Syrahs for the past few years and just started with Cabernet. One of the more memorable photos in a wine magazine this year was a picture of a 1982 Lafite, with a 12.5% abv on the label. I wondered when was the last time a renowned cabernet was made that way, and how it might be received now.

PG:  Interesting! Some years ago I hosted a tasting of early 1970s Washington Cabernets and none of them exceeded 12.5% abv. At more than 30 years of age they were still quite enjoyable, in a mature sort of way. So… on to the latest from Eila.

Eila 2022 Chardonnay – Le Cadeau vineyard is the unnamed source, a change from 2021. Note the drop in abv, from an already-low 12.7% last year. This is an acid-lover’s Chardonnay, with a splash of tart lemon, lime, grapefruit and pineapple pinging the palate right from the start. With time and aeration the flavors expand and very light touches of barrel toast can be detected, though much of its time was spent in stainless steel. Sleek, sinuous and steely, this will need decanting for near-term drinking. 70 cases, 12.2%; $65 (Willamette Valley) 94/100

Eila 2022 Scarlet Pinot Noir – The Prophet vineyard in the Eola-Amity AVA is the source, with multiple clones, 37% whole cluster fermentation and 22% new oak. There’s a style emerging from this young winery, and that just about sums it up. Single vineyard, multiple clones, significant inclusion of whole clusters, low abv and plenty of acid. It makes for juicy, lively, berry-packed wines such as this, with all of the above and a dash of baking spices. Firm and full through the finish, this lingers and resonates with spice, sandalwood and mocha highlights. 195 cases; 12.5%; $65 (Willamette Valley) 94/100

Eila 2022 Violet Pinot Noir – Sourced from Le Cadeau vineyard blocks planted with six different clones. One quarter of the ferment was whole cluster and one 18% was aged in French new oak barrels. It’s a plush red/purple color, richly scented with dried flowers and baking spices, sandalwood and plum. It’s tight and tart on the palate, with still rugged tannins that will smooth out over time. It finishes with savory herbs, charcoal and baking spices. Sturdy and substantial, it shows compact power that is a bit constrained when first opened. On the second day it’s more accessible, more forward and thoroughly enjoyable, and lingers gracefully after being open for three full days. A vin de garde. 270 cases; 12.7%; $65 (Willamette Valley) 95/100

Eila 2022 Indigo Pinot Noir – This uses different vineyard sources in 2022 (Johan and Le Cadeau), fermented with 40% whole cluster and aged in 20% new oak. This suggests that this new winery has not settled on anything approaching a formula, which in my mind is the most exciting time to taste the wines. There is an electric liveliness to the palate, reflecting the high percentage of biodynamically-farmed grapes. Tangy raspberry and blood orange flavors bring citrus and berry fruit front and center, then diving deep down into a long, tightly-wound finish. The tantalizing aromatics and the detailed finish complement the youthful, sharp, tart raspberry, pomegranate and cherry fruit. This happens to be a style that I am particularly fond of. Give it a lot of breathing time and/or decant it. It’s amazing when fully open. 145 cases; 12.5%; $65 (Willamette Valley) 96/100

Patricia Green Cellars

Some final thoughts upon posting the last reviews of the many 2022 PGC Pinots.

The challenge for me is the scores. Take all the 93 point wines for example. They are all  DIFFERENT. The score might suggest that they are all the same. Absolutely not. So why the same score? Great question. Because in my subjective estimation, evaluating scent, flavor, balance, texture, length, detail and expression of place, they all hit the mark at about 93 points, but with different strengths along the way. That’s the best explanation I can give you. I should also mention that some reviewers will push these scores much higher. I could do the same. But we’re running out of head room here! My 96 is someone else’s 99. Just sayin’…

Patricia Green Cellars 2022 Marine Sedimentary Pinot Noir – This is assembled from the single vineyard Chehalem Mountains barrels, in order to express the particular qualities of the thin marine soils found there. Flavors of currant, cranberry and tart blackberry start it out; aeration expands the mid-palate and though no new oak was used, a lightly chalky finish leaves a hint of mocha trailing out. 422 cases; 13.5%; $42 (Chehalem Mountains) 93/100

Patricia Green Cellars 2022 Reserve Pinot Noir – For many Willamette Valley wineries their Reserve (an unregulated term) is a best barrel selection, sometimes given extra time in oak and/or bottle. Here it is meant as a broad expression of Willamette Valley Pinot Noir, from a winery self-described as dedicated to single vineyard bottlings. Whatever barrels wound up in the mix you may be sure they were all good fruit from outstanding vineyards, and the ultimate blend here is seamless, smooth, supple and flat out delicious. With this wine you won’t need to suss out specifics of site or clone or block or elevation or soil, it is simply an outstanding example of Willamette Valley Pinot Noir, as intended, and a superb value. 3544 cases; 13.5%; $29 (Willamette Valley) 93/100

Patricia Green Cellars 2022 Notorious Pinot Noir – The hook here is the use of 100% new oak, with a mix of fruit from the estate, Balcombe, Freedom Hill and Arcus vineyards. It’s got more toast and spice than the rest of the portfolio, but it’s in service to the black fruits, and simply puts a different focus on what remains a well-balanced wine. This would be what many wineries would call their Reserve, but PGC marches to a beat of a different drummer, so it’s Notorious. Some earthy, lightly funky flavors trail out the finish. 196 cases; 13.5%; $85 (Willamette Valley) 94/100

Patricia Green Cellars 2022 Estate Vineyard Old Vine Pinot Noir – Old vine in this instance refers to self-rooted Pommard planted 1984 – 1998, prior to the acquisition of the property by Patty Green and Jim Anderson. Old vines done right deliver elegant, detailed, subtly layered flavors that add length and depth to the wine. Though young, this wine has an old soul, and the palate conjures up visual as well as sensory highlights. It suggests autumn leaves, berry pies, Thanksgiving turkey and the last days of fall before winter sets in. Pastry fruits, a hint of mint, brambly herbs and more highlights carry on through a smooth and supple finish. 1124 cases; 13.5%; $45 (Ribbon Ridge) 95/100

Patricia Green Cellars 2022 Wind Ridge Vineyard Pinot Noir – Cherries pop up in scent and flavor, framed with the AVA’s characteristic oyster shell minerality. 100% de-stemmed, aged in 20% new oak, grown on extremely thin soil; these are the factors that exert a powerful influence on the finished wine. It’s adjacent to the older Ridgecrest vineyard also established by the Peterson-Nedry family. Taste them side-by-side if you possibly can. This younger site brings concentrated and tangy raspberry fruit, tongue-scraping flavors of seashells and sea salt, hints of white chocolate and a long, long finish. 362 cases; 13.6%; $60 (Ribbon Ridge) 96/100

Patricia Green Cellars 2022 Ridgecrest Vineyard Pinot Noir – It’s no secret that tiny Ribbon Ridge compares favorably with the very best AVAs in the Willamette Valley. Ridgecrest was the first vineyard planted here more than 40 years ago. These old vines are owned and farmed by Harry and Wynne Peterson-Nedry, who had the foresight to believe in this terroir and plant here before anyone else saw the potential. This lovely bottle should inspire you to thank them and anyone else who tends such rare and valuable vines; the wines they produce are more than time in a bottle, they are ongoing time capsules, that capture the past and lead into the future. This compact beauty brings ripe berries, tart tree fruits, pretty baking spices, silky tannins and light touches of clean earth into the mix. The balance, proportion and length are sensational. Delicious now, but please put a few bottles away for a future special occasion. 363 cases; 12.9%; $85 (Ribbon Ridge) 97/100

Patricia Green Cellars 2022 Coulee Vineyard Pinot Noir – Great story here. This is sourced from what originally was Mimi Casteel’s Hope Well vineyard, dedicated from the start to non-interventionist, no-till, earth-nurturing viticulture. It was recently purchased by Drew Bledsoe and Josh McDaniels for their new Oregon project and renamed Coulee. It’s a great addition to the PGC portfolio, with its many layers of herbal/organic/earthy components. Aromatically it’s a snootful of compost with a touch of chicken yard, while in the mouth it delivers a lively mix of brambly fruit, clean earth and dusty spices. The finish is lively, electric and seemingly lasts just short of forever. 242 cases; 13.8%; $45 (Eola-Amity Hills) 97/100

Patricia Green Cellars 2022 Lia’s Vineyard Pinot Noir – In terms of price and quality this Lia’s contends with the 2022 Reserve, Freedom Hill Vineyard and Chehalem Mountain Vineyard bottles as the finest values of this extraordinary portfolio. Multiple clones and different soil types give the Lia’s depth and dimension. It’s a pretty rose garnet hue, with an open, broad and appealing palate. Crushed roses, maraschino cherries, sculpted tannins and a solid, flavorful core make this an instant favorite. Were the price doubled I wouldn’t think anything of it. At $37 it’s a no brainer. Grab some. 426 cases; 13.6%; $37 (Chehalem Mountains) 94/100

Patricia Green Cellars 2022 Corrine Vineyard Wadensvil Block Pinot Noir – The former Olenik vineyard provides the fruit from a 1991 planting. It’s complex with scents mixing hickory chips, dried orange peel and and caramel. The compact cherry fruit is accented with those highlights from aging in 20% new barrels. This is more closed than most of the rest of this extensive tasting. Re-tasted on the second day it remains stubbornly shuttered. 320 cases; 13.6%; $55 (Chehalem Mountains) 93/100

Patricia Green Cellars 2022 Corrine Vineyard Anklebreaker Block Pinot Noir – Named for the rocks that populate the site, this is all Pommard (planted 2007) and deftly places the fruit-forward clone against the astringent minerality of the rock-strewn site. It’s a fight to the finish, and that finish is a long way off, so give this ample breathing time if you are drinking it now. It’s closed, compact, astringent, dense and structured more for aging than near term drinking. 249 cases; 13.8%; $60 (Chehalem Mountains) 94/100

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