How To Become A Better Wine Taster

Plus new releases from Long Shadows, Marginalia and Patricia Green Cellars

There’s one sure way to get more enjoyment from wine, find better values from your wine purchases and enjoy more interesting experiences when visiting wine country. Be the best wine taster you can be. That’s it; that’s everything in a nutshell. Reading wine books, studying tasting notes, buying only high scoring wines and attending large, loud wine tasting events isn’t going to do much of any importance to develop your tasting acuity. You must treat wine tasting and palate development as you would any skill in which you choose to invest your time. Taste consistently, taste thoughtfully, taste with no distractions and full attention. Yes, it’s a steep learning curve. So is learning the clarinet (just ask my brother).

Up until Covid hit I was a regular guest lecturer on cruise ships, and I hosted a popular seminar on how to become a better wine taster. I drew some ideas from an excellent online piece written some years ago by Mike Peterson for the Huffington Post. That essay is still available online here, and well worth your attention. It breaks things down into four key steps, which I’ll quickly summarize for you.

First, take time to visually study the wine in your glass. The color can give you clues to a wine’s age, its grape type, its exposure to oxygen, its ripeness and more. Along with color, look at the ‘tears’ running down the side of your wineglass. Watery tears indicate a lighter wine, possibly dilute; slow and thick tears are a sign of viscosity, which suggests a rich and (potentially) sweet wine. Spending time simply looking at the wine can also help to focus your attention as you move through the next three stages.

Second, swirl the wine. Yes there are all sorts of gizmos that claim to ‘open up’ a wine with oxygen, but they also beat the holy hell out of the wine. Swirling it gently in the glass gives it a chance to breathe without doing any damage. I’d also suggest you test the temperature by clutching the bowl of the glass between your palms. Too cold (like right out of the fridge) and you’re missing most of the aromatics. Too warm (like that red you accidentally left next to the stove) and you are going to emphasize faults such as volatility. With very little practice you’ll be able to tell simply by touching the glass if a wine – whether white or red – is at a good drinking temperature.

Third, dive in and smell the wine. Studies have shown that for wine the majority of what we think of as taste actually comes from smell. Training your nose to pick up subtle scents will pay big dividends. You can help yourself immensely by eliminating all distracting odors – kitchen/food smells, perfume/makeup smells and the intrusive scents from the myriad products (laundry detergent, garbage bags, dishwasher soaps etc.) that are doused with off-putting chemicals. And finally make sure your stemware has no left-over dishwasher smells. Your nose can be fine-tuned but it needs olfactory quiet, and again your full attention. With practice you’ll start to differentiate scents of fruits and flowers, minerals and earthy components, barrel toast and spice in the wines you pour. All of which greatly enhances your appreciation of the wine in front of you.

Now taste the wine – carefully, slowly, thoughtfully. Take a sip and suck air in to swish it around the palate. Don’t worry so much about whether you’re tasting pomegranates or Bing cherries, at least at first. Is the wine balanced, or does something (acid, oak, tannin?) drown out the details? Are the flavors clean or funky, crisp or muddled? Is the wine too acidic (sharp and bitter) or too tannic (rough and coarse)? How long do the flavors last before completely fading away? This last is critical, and it’s all too easy to move on to the next sip before the first one has faded. Patience is a virtue that brings multiple rewards. Would you cut off the end of a favorite song in your eagerness to get to the next one? Well don’t do that to a good wine.

I summed up my own seminars on how to become a better taster with this list, which may also prove of interest.

      1) Use your eyes (check the cork, the color, the tears, the clarity)

      2) Use your nose (sniff test for flaws first)

      3) Clean your palate/avoid sensory overload (no perfume, food smells)

      4) Take a sip and swizzle it around (practice with water in the shower first)

      5) Flavor Basics – Fruit/Herb (each grape has a fruit spectrum)

      6) Flavor Basics – Acid (sour/tart, citrus/mineral, chalky/snappy)

      7) Flavor Basics – Oak (toast, smoke, char, nuts, baking spices, vanilla)

      8) Flavor Basics – Tannin (like sucking on a tea bag)

      9) Flavor Basics – Alcohol (how much burn is too much?)

      10) The finale – Overall balance, depth, texture, complexity, spice and length

Whatever your discipline – woodworking, painting, guitar, bird-watching, you name it – practice practice practice. That’s the key to pleasure. That’s when the rewards come.

In writing my tasting notes I strive to provide as much guidance as possible without drowning in adjectives. I have found after reviewing tens of thousands of wines that the best wines always inspire the best notes, with more depth and detail. For this substack I focus on tasting just a handful of wines daily, I re-visit them often, and I give extra points to wines that actually improve on the second day after being left open on the counter. I use good clean (not expensive) stemware, and do nothing to preserve the wines other than putting the cork or screwcap back on the bottle after each pour.

Recommended bottles recently tasted:

Long Shadows/Nine Hats

Long Shadows was begun by the late Allen Shoup as a collaborative venture putting Washington grapes into the hands of celebrity winemakers from Napa, France, Germany and Australia. The on-site winemaker has always been the talented Gilles Nicault. In a recent interview he explained that he is now the sole winemaker for the portfolio. “I got to work with all these talented people and I knew the terroir, so slowly but surely I have taken over. Starting with Poet's Leap and Saggi in 2017, and the 2019 vintage for the rest, and then during Covid, I've been here all along, getting dirty during harvest, doing vineyard maturity checks, fermentation checks. For each wine I had an incredible mentor - but over 20 years things evolved and no one is getting younger!”

My take:  Gilles is a modest, unassuming man of immense talent. Although the original concept and marketing of Long Shadows gained immediate attention thanks to the high-profile consulting winemakers, it was always Gilles who supervised the day-to-day work and watched over the development of the wines. Now he is fully in charge and the entire portfolio has never been in better shape.

Nine Hats is the budget brand and offers exceptional value.

Nine Hats 2022 Red – Principally Merlot and Cabernet, with Syrah and Sangiovese finishing up the blend. At least some of this may come from extra barrels designated for the Long Shadows lineup, and as such shows more polish and power than most wines in this price range. It’s somewhat diffuse, but packs plenty of flavor, with plum and cherry fruit. There is a noticeable impact from new barrels, putting a trail of toasted walnuts through the finish. Hard to find a comparable blend at this price, but as a budget SuperTuscan blend, it’s a splendid everyday red. 14.6%; $20 (Columbia Valley) 91/100

Nine Hats 2022 Cabernet Sauvignon – Nicely structured and showing true Cab flavors of black cherry and cassis, with trailing notes of tobacco and a lick of toasty new oak. This is an exceptional value. The blend includes 8% Syrah, all the fruit coming from the Horse Heaven Hills AVA. The length and detail of this wine blows away most other $20 Cabs, and reflects the craft and character that goes into all of Gilles Nicault’s wines. 14.6%; $20 (Columbia Valley) 92/100

Long Shadows 2023 Poet's Leap Riesling – This poised and near-perfect Riesling balances on a tightrope between sweet and sour, dry and off-dry. It’s packed with a jumble of juicy fruits, backed with elevating acids. Vineyard sources include old vine grapes from Gamache, a German clone from Bacchus and a dash of minerality from DuBrul. This is a truly generous and flavor-packed bottle, nicely annotated with cinnamon spice, and lingering long past the point where most Rieslings fade. 4980 cases; 12.2%; $20 (Columbia Valley) 96/100

Long Shadows 2020 Saggi – Emulating a SuperTuscan blend, this current vintage is 62% Sangiovese, 28% Cabernet Sauvignon and 10% Syrah. It's a bright ruby red, with equally bright flavors and a cherry candy character that is charmingly fresh. The Sangiovese component blends grapes from three AVAs – Walla Walla, Candy Mountain and Yakima Valley. The flavors coalesce in the finish around muscular tannins from the Stone Tree Cab, and licks of spice from the Boushey Syrah. 2155 cases; 15.1%; $65 (Columbia Valley) 92/100

Long Shadows 2020 Sequel Syrah – Fruit from Bacchus, Boushey and a “collection” of Red Mountain Vineyards comprise the blend, which might serve as the template for a textbook Washington/Columbia Valley style of Syrah. It’s powerful, dark, loaded with purple and black fruits and layered with tar, coffee, smoke and char accents. Big but still proportionate, with supporting acids, citrus and tobacco highlights as it trails out. 2025 cases; 15.2%; $65 (Columbia Valley) 93/100

Marginalia

I published an extensive look at the wines from this rule-breaking Walla Walla winery on August 1st. These two wines were not yet releasd at that time. They are still not listed on the website but I was told that they would be autumn ’24 releases. Contact the winery for an update.

Marginalia 2023 Zinfandel – Sourced from Les Collines and labeled simply ‘Red Wine’ this light and fruity wine is light years apart from the old vine Zin bruisers made in California. Tart, fresh fruit flavors of cranberry and pomegranate fill the front, with some compressed tannins holding up through the finish. If you can put aside any preconceptions about what Zin should taste like, this opens up a whole new world. I tasted it against an Anderson Valley Pinot Noir at similar ABV and it showed some similar character, though less depth. 12.1%; (Walla Walla Valley) 91/100

Marginalia 2023 The Agronomist – This is a co-fermented mix of Pinot Gris and Pinot Noir, roughly equal proportions, from old blocks at Breezy Slope vineyard. The aromatics favor the Pinot Noir, while the flavors dance between the two grapes, with a lively mineral underpinning. Kudos for crafting a thoroughly delicious, dry and low alcohol wine that can be paired with light cheeses, poultry or pork. 11.8%; (Walla Walla Valley) 90-91/100

Patricia Green Cellars

Among the many reasons I’m fascinated, charmed and challenged by PGC wines is how beautifully they are differentiated. Last week’s post included reviews of six different wines from the same vineyard. In the interests of conserving your time and my available Substack space (it’s limited by the software) I keep the technical information somewhat limited. The website is well worth a look as it offers a deep dive into dozens of wines and vineyard sources. If that’s more than you want, even the back labels are loaded with great detail. I wish more wineries would do the same.

Here are more current releases: a pair of white wines, a group from the Dundee Hills AVA, another group from the Chehalem Mountains AVA. I’ll wrap up with another dozen next week.

Patricia Green Cellars 2023 Sauvignon Blanc – Though known principally for its vast portfolio of Pinot Noirs, the winery does exceptionally well with small amounts of Sauvignon Blanc and Chardonnay. This Willamette Valley cuvée is more than two thirds Dundee Hills fruit. It’s fresh, even racy, with lip-licking grapefruit-driven acidity. (Willamette Valley) 92/100

Patricia Green Cellars 2021 Estate Vineyard Chardonnay – Apart from their rare and excellent Sauvignon Blanc, this is the only white wine from Patricia Green in my experience. Planted to Pinot Noir in 2000, it was grafted over to Chardonnay cuttings from Brick House in 2019. This may be the first vintage, and it is so good you can’t help but wish they’d make more different Chardonnays. This is juicy, rich, layered and loaded with Meyer lemon, pink grapefruit and tangerine, accented with appealing barrel toast. The flavors extend gracefully through a long, luscious, trailing finish. 13.5%; $75; (Ribbon Ridge) 94/100

Dundee Hills AVA

Patricia Green Cellars 2022 Volcanic Pinot Noir – A blend of grapes from five of the winery’s vineyard select sites, all in the Dundee Hills AVA, this is subtly layered with red and purple fruits, sandalwood and mocha, silky tannins and lingering highlights of coffee grounds. Full details are here. All neutral barrels were used; the skills of the blender are on full display here. Much as single vineyard selections can impress, sometimes it’s a great blend that really puts all the pieces into fine focus. 779 cases; 13.5%; $48 (Dundee Hills) 94/100

Patricia Green Cellars 2022 Anderson Family Vineyard Pinot Noir – This unique vineyard is high on a “rubble butte” hilltop in the far northeast corner of the AVA, and the 30-year-old vines produce aromatic wines of exceptional character. The underlying minerality shines through, putting a mountain top spin on the tight, tangy raspberry fruit. Poised and precise, the wine maintains a fine focus from start to finish. More refined than many Dundee Hills Pinots, this trades sheer power for sublime elegance. 296 cases; 13.5%; $55 (Dundee Hills) 95/100

Patricia Green Cellars 2022 Durant Vineyard Madrone Block Pinot Noir – As this block (planted in 2000) reaches maturity, the flavors deepen and extend. It’s named for the trees on the site – David Lett had advised that madrone trees were indications of a warmer site. Here is a core of blackberry fruit is framed with pretty highlights of cinnamon and baking spices. Tannins are full and ripe but unobtrusive, and the wine expands broadly through a mid-long finish. 325 cases; 13.5%; $45 (Dundee Hills) 93/100

Patricia Green Cellars 2022 Durant Vineyard Bishop Block Pinot Noir – This is the original block of Pommard, planted in 1973. It brings exceptional depth and detail to the wine, which you can parse at leisure while enjoying sip after sip. This is not a wine to glug down with a meal; it’s a wine to contemplate. Have a taste before dinner, a glass with dinner, and a final nightcap once the wine has fully opened. Berries and cherries, blood orange, wet rock and details of sweet spice comingle, with a long, trailing finish that never stops pleasing. 390 cases; 13.7%; $55 (Dundee Hills) 95/100

Patricia Green Cellars 2022 Lillie’s Vineyard Pinot Noir – A first-timer for PGC in 2022, this vineyard occupies a desirable site adjacent to Weber and Winderlea vineyards. It’s all Dijon 115 from a 2001 planting. The palate has a burst of fresh blue plum and cherry, then dives down toward the back palate where you’ll find many of the finest Burgundies reside. Don’t get me wrong; this is Oregon wine, not Burgundy. But in terms of how it hits the palate, a fine indication of structure and ageability, it has that style. Though still too young to predict exactly where it’s headed, that’s a good indication of ageworthy wine. It’s tight, structured, lightly savory with hints of breakfast tea and charcoal accenting the finish. 250 cases; 13.2%; $75 (Dundee Hills) 95/100

Patricia Green Cellars 2022 Balcombe Vineyard Pinot Noir – There’s an interesting history here. This vineyard, across from DDO, was planted in 1990 under the management of Patty Green and Jim Anderson, prior to the establishment of their own winery. Were I to pick from among the vast repertoire of iconic vineyards under the PGC umbrella, Balcombe would be at or near #1. This new release captures the magic, with layer upon layer of crushed roses, bright citrus, mixed berries, milk chocolate, cut tobacco and almond paste. It goes and goes, clear and classy throughout. 474 cases; 13.7%; $60 (Dundee Hills) 95/100

Patricia Green Cellars 2022 Balcombe Vineyard Block 1B Pinot Noir – As with most block selections, this is more tightly focused than the blended Balcombe designate, with a crunchy edge to the bright raspberry/cherry fruit. Vertically focused, tangy and displaying accents of orange peel, chocolate and toasted almonds, this would be a fine cellar candidate, though it’s already drinking attractively. I value length, precision and depth, which this wine has in spades, along with touches of savory herbs and even chicken stock. Go for it! 236 cases; 13.4%; $75 (Dundee Hills) 97/100

Patricia Green Cellars 2022 Weber Vineyard Pinot Noir – This is sourced from a 1983 planting of Pommard – does it get any better? The forward, juicy, bold berry fruitiness of Pommard is neatly scaled up by the depth and texture of these mineral-prone old vines. Flavors of chalk, raspberries, marionberries, chewy tannins and light touches of chocolate and dried herbs combine almost seamlessly. It finishes with a tangy tartness and a smack of savory herbs that resonates long past your last swallow. 482 cases; 13.4%; $60 (Dundee Hills) 96/100

Chehalem Mountains AVA

Patricia Green Cellars 2022 Chehalem Mountain Vineyard Pinot Noir – What a delicious bottle from the very first sip. A multi-clone mix from a vineyard first planted by the legendary Dick Erath. This is a totally luscious, berry-loaded wine that bursts across the palate and holds there through a juicy, lingering, baking spicy finish. Out of so many young new releases from PGC, this one is clearly one to own – fine value, good quantities, thoroughly delicious. 1034 cases; 12.8%; $37 (Chehalem Mountains) 93/100

Patricia Green Cellars 2022 Chehalem Mountain Vineyard Wadensvil Clone Pinot Noir ­– This single clone expression makes an interesting contrast with the winery’s other fruit-powered Chehalem Mountain Vineyard bottling. This is tight, focused, tart and a bit narrow. Higher abv, showing more acid, less forward fruit, more likely to age longer. The aromatics show plenty of detail and suggest more depth to come with age. Pomegranate, unripe strawberries, slightly bitter herbs are in play. I think this will need a few years in bottle to open up. 198 cases; 13.4%; $48 (Chehalem Mountains) 92/100

Patricia Green Cellars 2022 La Belle Promenade Vineyard Pinot Noir – Tight with tart red fruit, lightly layered with touches of buttery caramel from gentle (13%) exposure to new barrels. This is the estate vineyard for Flaneur, whose new releases I reviewed in the August 22nd post. This opens with pretty aromas of rose petals and raspberries, filling the palate with a nice mix of the floral and the fruit flavors, supported with racy acidity. It’s a part of this extensive portfolio that shows the winery’s stylistic choices quite clearly – moderate ripeness, limited new oak, plenty of acid, beautiful aromatics, long clean finish. 389 cases; 13.7%; $55  (Chehalem Mountains) 94/100

Patricia Green Cellars 2022 La Belle Promenade Vineyard Ghost Barn Block Pinot Noir – This is the debut vintage for this bottling. It’s all Pommard from the highest and steepest section of this high elevation site – classic Patricia Green stuff. The actual Ghost Barn structure has been restored – I look forward to visiting – and this is clearly an important new vineyard site for Patricia Green. It rings all the bells – clearly defined, crunchy red fruits, firm but balanced tannins – made for cellaring. Right away it’s giving you clean, clear fruit aromas, tart acids, hints of caramel (two thirds aged in once-used barrels) and a persistent, layered finish. 149 cases; 13.8%; $75  (Chehalem Mountains) 95/100

And one outlier:  Patricia Green Cellars 2022 Bearwallow Vineyard Pinot Noir – This fruit is sourced from California’s Anderson Valley. Razor sharp, bright and what is often called ‘crunchy’ – which I take to mean sharp-edged, granular, even a touch brittle – this was done to memorialize an Anderson Valley Pinot from the Hirsch Vineyard that PGC did 20 years before. Nothing wimpy here; this has depth and power in a compact package. The California vineyards above the ocean on the western edge of the AVA make the most refined and elegant Pinots in the state. 12.5%; $175/magnum; (Anderson Valley) 94/100

I sent the following note to the major wine marketing organizations in Washington and Oregon. The publication I worked at for 25 years has dropped a bomb announcement that they are now charging $65 for every wine submitted for potential review. That is sure to have a major impact on which wines from which producers get submitted. The little guys are likely the losers. And those are the wines I feature on this Substack. For free.

I wrote:  “As you know, a knowledgeable weekly wine column no longer exists in any of the leading newspapers of the Pacific Northwest. I offer ad-free, time-tested wine guidance from a local expert who has covered this region for the past 35 years. I focus on spotlighting hidden treasures from under-the-radar, limited production, high value Pacific Northwest producers. I support those producers with thoughtful reviews, in-depth interviews and notes, and direct links to winery websites for sales.”

Some thoughts on scores – Once in a while a winery will send out a marketing email with a list of scores on the same wine from a variety of reviewers and publications. It’s interesting to me because I don’t correspond with any other reviewers, and haven’t ever met most of them. So I can evaluate my score for a given wine in a mix of many others. In general my scores fall right in the middle of the pack – if the range among all reviewers is 93 to 97 I’m probably a 95. The thing is I’m consistent. I’m never an outlier. I may be a little tougher than reviewers who jump immediately to the highest possible number in order to get quoted by the trade. But you can rely on my palate being consistent, and my scores being thoughtful and objective.