Hot Days and Super Cool Wines in the Columbia Gorge and Willamette Valley

Plus: Reviews of Canvasback Cabs & Walter Scott Pinots

Despite godawful temperatures these past few days, my long-anticipated summer sojourn to Oregon wine country turned out even better than I’d planned. My purpose on these visits is not to slam through as many wines as possible; but rather to spend quality time with winemakers and winery principals to get a clear understanding of their personal and business goals. In the course of these discussions I take the opportunity to update them on my current writing goals, and how my approach to covering wine has evolved since leaving the print world and joining Substack.

All of the visits have been productive, and many exciting and even groundbreaking (pardon the pun) wines have been tasted. Until I have the chance to do formal reviews of the wines (those will come later), here are quick impressions of a few of the many highlights. Whether at a large, well-funded operation such as Archery Summit or Four Graces, or a simple, family-owned start-up such as Ruby or White Walnut, I found fascinating wines, wonderful hospitality and the kind of genuine welcome that is harder and harder to find in heavily-touristed wine country.

A few quick impressions…

Driving east from Waitsburg my first stop was just outside the Columbia Gorge town of Mosier to chat with Steven Thompson and Kris Fade at Analemma Wines. Their excellent website provides a wealth of information about the town, the winery, their commitment to biodynamic viticulture and more. Among the wines tasted was a crisp and most satisfying Godello – a first for me and as far as Thompson knows, a first for the country. That was followed by a Trousseau, a Mencia and a Grenache – a tasting that could not be duplicated anywhere else in the Northwest.

Along with my appreciation of the labor-intensive, earth-friendly farming at Analemma, the chance to experience these unusual varieties made this visit exceptional.

A short drive into Hood River and across the Columbia river to the Washington side brought me to my next stop, Savage Grace. I wrote about Michael Savage’s outstanding Cabernet Francs in an earlier post, but I wanted to get a broader understanding of his wines and couldn’t pass up the chance to stop in and get acquainted. You’ll find the winery and its Underwood vineyard at the end of a dusty drive in the hills above the river. I slowed down as I passed the famed Celilo vineyard before parking at the unprepossessing winery. There I had a chance to sip and chat with Michael for about an hour.

He strikes me as a shy, gifted and truly artistic winemaker. We found a mutual interest in music – he and his wife spent their pre-winery years as working musicians – and again I was given the chance to explore a few remarkable wines. Grüner Veltliner is a specialty here, and a 2022 Pét-Nat, low in alcohol, high in flavor, really hit the spot on a triple digit afternoon. Another highlight was a Skin Contact Gewürztraminer – absolutely the best orange wine I’ve ever tasted. Realizing there was so much more to explore, I promised to do a deep dive into the Savage Grace wines later this year.

Arriving in Portland that evening I met up with a pal who joined me over the next three days as we made unhurried stops at a mix of producers, some new to me, some old friends. I’ll write about each of them in detail as I work through the wines over the next few weeks at home. Did I have a favorite among them? I honestly couldn’t pick a favorite; they were all fun, educational, invigorating one-on-one visits that of course included some lovely wines.

At Shea we poked into the vineyard before the heat got to us – no problems for the vines despite the blazing temps – and chatted with Dick and Peter Shea over a couple of library wines, including a still quite delicious 2003 Pinot Noir.

At Patricia Green Cellars we joined winemaker and co-founder Jim Anderson and explored the Dundee Hills selections from the winery’s always captivating (and vast) number of new releases. Among the favorites were the new releases from the Balcombe vineyard. To our delight, as the visit was wrapping up, Jim pulled out this surprise bottle – a Balcombe vineyard wine made during his and Patty’s tenure at Torii Mor prior to starting their own winery in 2000.

At Walter Scott Partner/Winemaker Ken Pahlow pulled out detailed vineyard maps as he guided our tasting of the new releases. His picking decisions, he explained, are guided by a belief that working for lower yields, picking early, picking all clonal selections together and co-fermenting them gives him the best expression of each of his select sites.

I’ve previously posted up my reviews of his 2022 Chardonnays, and re-tasting them confirmed my first impressions – clearly among the very best made in this country, and much more reliably good (and less expensive) than cru Burgundy. I also re-tasted the 2022 Pinots which I’d had a few weeks ago at home. Here are those notes (published for the first time). Purchase here.

Walter Scott 2022 Koosah Vineyard Pinot Noir – Dark, almost bloody, scented with charcuterie and dried flowers, this fascinating wine seems more mature than you’d expect and therefore is drinking as if already in a prime window. There’s a fat, buttery note to the mid-palate, a dusting of coffee grounds, and a firm core of blackberry fruit as drying tannins fall away. Enjoy this now and through the rest of the decade. 150 cases; 13.5%; $80 (Eola-Amity Hills) 92/100

Walter Scott 2022 Witness Tree Vineyard Pinot Noir – I believe this is a debut vineyard selection, and it’s a fine one. Polished and elegant, this opens with blueberry fruit and lemony acids. There is a compelling minerality that underscores the fruit; the wine seems poised on a tight rope between acid and rock. Young, vibrant and fascinating, this will want extra aeration or more time in bottle to show its full scope. 100 cases; 13.5%; $80 (Eola-Amity Hills) 93/100

Walter Scott 2022 Sojeau Vineyard Pinot Noir – Big and meaty, this comes out front-loaded with zippy acids and grippy tannins. Full and ripe, the mid-palate is loaded with a burst of juicy red fruits – strawberries, plums, figs and cherries. There’s a hint of Dr. Pepper and a toasty notes as it trails out. 450 cases; 13.5%; $80 (Eola-Amity Hills) 94/100

Walter Scott 2022 X Novo Vineyard Pinot Noir – This aromatic, beautifully-textured wine is emblematic of the style and field blend approach that typifies the winery’s Pinots. It’s dark and aromatic, tangy and even a little chewy, layered with core flavors of ripe berries and plums and cherry cobbler. The acids keep it fresh and lively, and aging in 50% new oak barrels adds a frame of toasted walnuts. Give it extra aeration if you plan to drink in anytime soon. 175 cases; 13.5%; $80 (Eola-Amity Hills) 94/100

Walter Scott 2022 Freedom Hill Vineyard Pinot Noir – This may be the most complete Pinot Nor of the winery’s ‘22s,, solidly reflective of both vineyard and grape. Fruit flavors are packed with blueberries and cherries, and the balance throughout keeps all the layered components in perfect proportion. There’s a tart savory streak running through the palate; the tannins hold a gentle hint of green, the texture is smooth and the very light (15%) time in new oak seems just right. Prime drinking is still a few years away. 300 cases; 13.5%; $80 (Mt. Pisgah) 93/100

Walter Scott 2022 Sequitur Vineyard Pinot Noir – The melding of biodynamic farming, 50% new oak and the marine sedimentary soils of Ribbon Ridge create a complex weave of flavors. Cherries, rocks, seashells, umami, toast and more highlights are beautifully interwoven in this wine. As with all the Walter Scott Pinots there is a firm streak of citrusy acid running throughout. This young wine will want extra decanting and should drink well for decades. 100 cases; 13.5%; $80 (Ribbon Ridge) 94/100

Walter Scott 2022 Justice Vineyard Pinot Noir – This is truly an exceptional vineyard, for both its Chardonnays and its Pinot Noirs. Aromatically intense, this wine is loaded with scents and flavors of marionberries, cherries, coffee grounds, sandalwood, mocha and the rich umami highlights from sustainable, earth-friendly farming. This captures all of that and keeps it focused in an elegant frame, with compact but lingering flavors. Delicious already, it will reward cellaring over the next decade and longer. 150 cases; 13.5%; $80 (Eola-Amity Hills) 94/100

New releases from Canvasback/Greenwing

The 2021s – bottled in the spring of 2023 – are the last end-to-end vintage from previous winemaker Brian Rudin (now at Echolands). Brian also started the production of the 2022s, which were finished by current winemaker Joseph Czarney.

Greenwing 2022 Cabernet Sauvignon – This is the latest vintage of Canvasback’s value brand, here blending the Cabernet with 13% Malbec and a splash of Syrah. It’s got big boy aromatics – lush and toasty and compelling – and it follows through with supple, palate-coating flavors of plum and black cherry and cassis. Though just 10% of the barrels were new there are sweet accents of mocha, vanilla, baking spices, coffee and clove. Truly a very fine value in a drink now style. 14.2%; $30 (Columbia Valley) 92/100

Canvasback 2021 Walla Walla Valley Cabernet Sauvignon – From a low yield (hence extra concentrated) vintage, this Cabernet (with 5% Malbec in the blend) spent 20 months in 62% new French oak barrels. Sourced from the Eritage and Les Collines vineyards at widely separated parts of the Valley, this is a broad, chewy, darkly fruited wine. Highlights of toast and char and coffee grounds are set around a core of black cherry, cassis and dark chocolate. 14.5%; $58 (Walla Walla Valley) 93/100

Canvasback 2021 Red Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon – Here the blend is 89% Cabernet, 9% Merlot and 2% Malbec, sourced from a dozen Red Mountain vineyards. It’s firm and focused, with ripe but not too grippy tannins, and a sweet core of ripe blackberry fruit. Aged 20 months in 40% new French oak it carries the brand’s signature toastiness, set in perfect balance against the Red Mountain fruit. It finishes gracefully with touches of nutmeg spice, caramel, pipe tobacco and black tea. 14.5%; $44 (Red Mountain) 94/100

Canvasback 2021 Les Collines Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon – This first-time vineyard designate has 17% Malbec in the blend, and spent 20 months in three quarters new French oak barrels. There’s a consistent style and flavor palate across these 2021 Cabs, with broad, lightly leafy, toasty highlights and deep black fruits at the heart. Char, tobacco, espresso grounds and dark chocolate are the accents; tannins are fully ripened and here a bit on the grainy side. The magic of this wine is that it’s instantly drinkable, powerfully structured, and cellar-ready for future enjoyment. 14.5%; $76 (Walla Walla Valley) 95/100

Canvasback 2021 Grand Passage Cabernet Sauvignon – This is a single source showcase for Red Mountain's Quintessence vineyard – 97% Cabernet Sauvignon, 3% Malbec, and given 20 months in 70% new French oak barrels. It’s packed with deep, dense flavors of black currant, black cherries, highlights of bay leaf, cedar shakes, ground coffee and baker’s chocolate. This young wine is approachable (with ample aeration) but is built for cellaring. When first opened you may find it to be a tight, firm, dense, compact, classic Red Mountain Cabernet. 14.5%; $90 (Red Mountain) 93/100

Canvasback 2021 Red Heaven Vineyard Syrah – Intensely aromatic, inky black, and dense beyond words, this amps up the AVA’s well-known power to almost unprecedented levels. That said it’s not bombastic; rather it masses its black fruits with accents of black tea, licorice and tobacco. Deeply layered, with rich tannins and impressive length, this should be at its best during the first half of the 2030s. 14.5%; $76 (Red Mountain) 94/100

Canvasback 2021 Funk Vineyard Syrah – The Funk vineyard (owned by Saviah's Rich Funk) captures the essence of the Rocks District in a more elegant style than some of the AVA’s more notorious sites. This is 100% Syrah, packed with ripe blackberries, cassis, charcuterie, cigar leaf, dark chocolate and powdery tannins. Scents of lavender and violets immediately capture your attention even before it hits the palate. It gives you the essence of the Rocks District without going too far over the top with excessively funky flavors. 14.5%; $76 (Walla Walla Valley) 96/100

Events & Tastings Coming Up

Women in Wine Oregon – July 16

Founded in 2019, Women in Wine Oregon amplifies female voices and promotes female leadership in the wine and beverage industry. This year’s theme is ‘RISE’ and will offer insights from leading female wine professionals, business leaders, journalists, entrepreneurs, and industry trailblazers. Guided by the principles of Regeneration, Investing, Supporting, and Empowering, the conference aims to inspire and empower participants on their personal and professional journeys. Among the speakers are wine writers from leading wine publications including Jancis Robinson and Decanter.

Summertime ¡Salud! E-Auction – July 16 – 18

The preview lots for the three-day E-Auction have been posted on the link above. Wineries create one-of-a-kind ¡Salud! Cuvée Pinot Noirs from their very best barrels. Only five cases of each featured wine is produced. ¡Salud! is a benefit for the Hillsboro Medical Center Foundation.

Chardy Party – July 25th 6 to 9pm

Four great wineries – Hazelfern, big table farm, Hundred Suns, and Walter Scott – will be pouring their Chardonnays accompanied by food from chefs Sarah Schafer and Brett Uniss from Humble Spirit + the Ground. The venue is the Hazelfern Barn - just up the road from The Allison Inn & Spa in Newberg, Oregon. Parking on-site is limited, as are tickets, so don’t delay.

The Shindig at Yellowhawk Resort – August 23 -24

Sip from more than 25 wineries on the beautiful Yellowhawk grounds, enjoy light bites, and groove to live music. The Magnum Tent will feature 14 special pours and has limited tickets. On Saturday the Grand Gallop event is a multi-course dinner and auction to support local youth agriculture, and the wine and culinary communities. Bid on exclusive packages and dance the night away with post-dinner entertainment.

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Paul