High-scoring Wines From Recent Tastings

Here's a zip through the top wines I tasted so far this year.

It may seem that this is a lot of high-scoring wines for such a short period of time. But given my laser focus on boutique and heritage wineries, it’s no surprise. I don’t have to kiss a lot of frogs these days, nor do I wish to. If you have any doubts about my methodology or preferences I suggest you compare these scores to any and all others you can find on the winery websites. I’m confident that I am not an outlier among all the major reviewers – rarely the highest, never the lowest scorer. Call me Goldilocks if you wish!

This list runs about 2:1 red to white which seems reasonable. Yes as a couple of you have noted it is Pinot Noir heavy and Oregon heavy. That is entirely due to the fact that I am getting a much stronger response from Oregon wineries than I am from Washington and Walla Walla wineries. I reach out frequently and equally to them all and have enlisted the support of numerous winery associations and regional trade groups. Some respond, some don’t. One reason I am showcasing these wines (many for the second time) is because I believe almost all of them are still available for purchase. Check their websites or look at the case quantities for a clue.

Not a lot of bargains here, for sure. But have you looked at, for example, Wine Spectator’s latest lists of high-scoring Napa Valley Cabs or Italian wines from the Piedmont? Yikes! The cheapest wines with scores such as these cost about as much as the most expensive bottles listed here. Value is for the buyer to decide.

As always I welcome your feedback, pro or con!

Anderson Family 2018 Chardonnay

The crystal clear minerality of this vintage is striking, as is the precision through the finish. This to me seems to be the most specific to the terroir (as described) out of all the Chardonnays, with that lively texture and perfectly proportionate balance. Citrus, apple and melon fruit is here, clean and distinct, with just the right impact of barrel toast. With three years of bottle age it is just now at a perfect place for diving into its youthful self. 410 cases; 14.4%; $48 (Dundee Hills) 94/100

Anderson Family 2015 Pinot Noir

Seductive as hell, this has the scents, the power and the complexity to go a long way from here. It's a Dundee Hills mix of strawberry/cherry and a spine of iron. There are hints of truffle and a solid mineral base accented with ripe tannins. The minerality of the estate vineyard is impressive. After six years in bottle this sleek but powerful Pinot can be enjoyed now or cellared for another decade. Still drinking really well on day three, this is a showcase for the vintage. 1450 cases; 13.3%; $56 (Dundee Hills) 94/100

Anderson Family 2016 Pinot Noir

Here again the 2016 vintage shines – a perfectly balanced wine with precision, style, depth and length. Nicely layered with blue and black fruits, baking spices, licorice, coffee grounds and clean earth. The wine keeps your attention through a lingering finish. The tannins are polished and firm, and the wine trails out long and totally satisfying. Still delicious on day three. Drink now and over another decade at least. 1130 cases; 13.5%; $56 (Dundee Hills) 95/100

Anderson Family 2019 Pinot Noir

This has the lowest finished alcohol of the six Pinots tasted in this flight. The aromatics are elevated, the fruit quite lovely and delicious. The elegance the wine expresses harks back to the early vintages of Eyrie, but here the elegant flavors of berry and flower avoid any green character. I'd pop this into a blind tasting of 2019 premier cru Burgundy and see what transpires. My money is on the Anderson Family. Drink now and... pretty much forever. 1300 cases; 12.4%; $56 (Dundee Hills) 94/100

Aquilini 2019 10000 Hours Red Wine

This is the value brand for this powerhouse Red Mountain vineyard owner. The Red is 63% Cabernet Sauvignon, 26% Merlot, 6% Petit Verdot, 3% Malbec and 2% Cabernet Franc. Aged 20 months in 35% new French oak, it drinks like a much more expensive wine. In a way it's old school Washington Cab, with alcohol topping out at 15%, though that's not unusual for Red Mountain. It's instantly appealing, smooth as silk, with a lush mix of red and black fruits and a big swath of mocha saturating the palate. Delicious now, it's certainly cellar-worthy for the rest of the decade. In my view previous reviewers dramatically undervalued this wine. 2447 cases; 15%; $35 (Red Mountain) 94/100

Domaine Drouhin Oregon 2021 Arthur Chardonnay

It's hard to imagine a more reliably brilliant Oregon Chardonnay vintage after vintage than DDO's Arthur. Its textbook structure, compelling style and exceptional balance place this at the top of the state's offerings. The fruit is picked at perfect ripeness, the acids provide a refreshing lift and the use of DDO's proprietary barrels gives the wine a lush but never intrusive toastiness. 3030 cases; 13.9%; $42 (Dundee Hills) 96/100

Domaine Drouhin Oregon 2021 Pinot Noir

The subtle elegance of the three 2021 DDO releases profiled here puts an unmistakable winemaker fingerprint on all of them. Even after 35 years the impact of more than a century of Drouhin family winemaking skills honed in Burgundy can still be startling to see in Oregon. Brambly berries, slightly stiff acids, firm and just-ripe tannins, all with a minerally bottom note keep this young wine fascinating. Will it age well? Undoubtedly. The ability to make a wine that is immediately delicious and yet structured for the cellar is what elevates DDO and winemaker Veronique Drouhin to the very top. 17170 cases; 14.1%; $48 (Dundee Hills) 95/100

Holocene 2021 Memorialis Pinot Noir

This wine carries a more specific AVA than the companion Apocrypha though the actual vineyard sources are not disclosed. Aromatic and penetrating, with luscious brambly red fruits, this deftly mixes those slightly candied fruit flavors with broader highlights of Dr. Pepper, hot cinnamon candy and lemon drops. Wow – a lot going on here. Give this one a good look over plenty of time. Still drinking well on day four! 260 cases; 13.5%; $65 (Yamhill-Carlton) 95/100

Holocene 2021 Apocrypha Pinot Noir

Specific vineyard source(s) remain undisclosed but in past vintages Antiquum Farm was the site. This young wine is firmly rooted in blue and black fruits, supple yet forceful, with ample and balanced acids and polished tannins. The dense tangle of sous-bois, herbs and earth elements underlying all of the above points toward biodynamic farming, which would make sense if it's Antiquum. It's a full-bodied, captivating wine that may require some years to unfold. Drink now through mid-2030s. 170 cases; 13.8%; $65 (Willamette Valley) 95/100

Ken Wright 2021 Shea Vineyard Pinot Noir

Now more than three decades since it was first planted, the Shea vineyard is as iconic in Oregon as any site can claim to be. Dozens of wineries seek these grapes, and it's a pleasure to see what a veteran such as Ken Wright can do with them. He keeps the alcohol low, yielding a bright, savory, spicy wine anchored in brambly berries and tannins reminiscent of herbal tea. Complex and a bit unyielding, this is a wine to aerate aggressively if you are planning to drink it any time soon. Tasted on the second day it was slowly gaining volume. 1432 cases; 12.8%; $65 (Yamhill-Carlton) 94/100

Ken Wright 2021 Canary Hill Vineyard Pinot Noir

Among the oldest vines (planted 1983)  in Ken Wright's single vineyard series, Canary Hill also benefits from its Pommard clones. It's juicy and fresh, crisply defined with flavors of just-picked wild berries backed with vivid citrus. Aging in 20% new French oak puts a lightly toasty frame around it, nicely balanced against the ripping acids. I would guess it's best days are a half decade away. 608 cases; 13.5%; $65 (Eola-Amity Hills) 94/100

Love & Squalor 2018 Dry Riesling

If you like your Riesling bone dry and sappy with lip-smacking juiciness look no further than this new release from Matt Berson at Portland Wine Company. Grapefruit, Meyer lemon, tangerine and more are in the mix. The tension is electric, the definition and focus are pinpoint and spot on. There is nothing missing here for this particular style. 270 cases; 12%; $20 (Willamette Valley) 96/100

Parabellum 2020 Coulée

The new vintage of Coulée is a true GSM – 58% Syrah, 21% Grenache and 21% Mourvèdre sourced from estate vineyards on Red Mountain and in the Walla Walla Valley. Fermented in concrete and aged 18 months in one fifth new French oak, this more than meets the objectives stated above. It's seamless, sexy and svelte, a lush mix of berries, plums and black fruits. The tannins are polished and fused into the fruit perfectly, with a side order of savory herbs, umami, olives and espresso. 600 cases; 15%; $45 (Columbia Valley) 96/100

Pášxa 2020 Rockgarden Vineyard Grenache

This puts a pleasing, toasty frame around the core flavors, a lovely mix of cranberry, plum pastry and brown spices. There's an underlying earthy/leafy character with the lightest suggestion of the so-called "good" funk that characterizes this unique AVA. The finish gracefully tails out leaving touches of caramel and coffee grounds. Fans of Grenache (and I am certainly among them) will find this notable for its subtle elegance, length and detail. 60 cases; 13.9%; $85 (Walla Walla – Rocks District) 95/100

Pášxa 2020 River Rock Vineyard Grenache

Grenache from anywhere rarely shows this potent expression of pure terroir, elegance, length, detail and finishing power. Tea, tobacco, earth, blood orange and raspberry liqueur. Despite 60% whole cluster fermentation the savory side is kept proportionate, and 15% new oak adds a subtle focus to the finish. I think maybe the closest comp would be the GOK from Cayuse – the Cayuse a louder, in your face style, the Pášxa its gentler brother. By any standard this is a must-taste wine for anyone who loves Grenache. 140 cases; 14.9%; $95 (Walla Walla – Rocks District) 96/100

Pášxa 2020 Rockgarden Vineyard Mourvèdre

The gorgeous fragrance introduces this terrific exploration of this grape as a standalone varietal wine. It's an explosion of berries red blue and black, with highlights of caraway seed and white pepper. There are floral scents of cut flowers and the sort of exotic spicy highlights that speak to this unique AVA. incredibly expressive and long, this takes Mourvèdre to a level rarely if ever seen in this country. 130 cases; 14.5%; $85 (Walla Walla – Rocks District) 96/100

Pášxa 2020 Rockgarden Vineyard Syrah

Made from a selection of the best Syrah from this estate vineyard, this was fermented in stainless steel and aged in one quarter new French oak. There should be a photo of this wine in the dictionary under Rocks District Syrah – it's that specific and focused. Without going over the top, and maintaining impeccable balance, it captures the blue and black fruits, the earthy umami, the suggestions of bloody meat and herbal tea and all the things that make this AVA unique and iconic. Among the very limited releases from Pášxa this has the biggest production and should be at the top of your must-have list. 375 cases; 14.3%; $85 (Walla Walla – Rocks District) 97/100

Ponzi 2019 Avellana Vineyard Chardonnay

This vineyard, planted in 2006, is dedicated to a pair of Dijon clones. This was part of the re-imagining of Oregon Chardonnay that began back in the 1990s. Now reaching full maturity, it's easily apparent what these French clones bring to the party. This is tight, sculpted, sleek and dense, with sharply defined tree fruits, light spices and a touch of bourbon tea. This wine should develop well over the next 15 years. 165 cases; 13.4%; $75 (Laurelwood District) 94/100

Ponzi 2019 Alloro Vineyard Chardonnay

From the new 'Highlights Collection' this is a great start-up wine. Under their own label the Alloro wines have a long track record of excellence, and here those grapes are spotlighted by one of Oregon's premier pioneering producers. This is stylish, almost steely, focused and dense – the type of Chardonnay that has completely reshaped the state's approach to this universal grape. The fruit flavors (white peach, melon) stay focused on through a long finish, adding details of toasted hazelnuts and white chocolate. 131 cases: 13.3%; $75 (Laurelwood District) 95/100

Ponzi 2019 Wahle Vineyard Pinot Noir

The Wahle vineyard, unfamiliar to me, really delivers the goods here. The savory components underlie the purple and black fruits, and the tannins are ripe but smooth. The barrel regimen is undisclosed, but not in any way is the use of new oak intrusive. Light touches of cola, chicory, butterscotch and toasted almonds add depth and detail. Note:  the correct name of the AVA is Eola-Amity Hills, not Eola-Amity or Eola Hills, each of which is called out on the front and back labels. 170 cases; 14%; $110 (Eola-Amity Hills) 94/100

Ponzi 2019 Avellana Vineyard Pinot Noir

A lovely spicy character hits the palate immediately, followed with blackberry and black cherry fruit. As the wine develops on the palate you'll find a gentle mix of toast, cinnamon, Indian spices and butter. This is the sort of wine that emphasizes the subtle elegance of Pinot Noir, and blooms open with ample aeration. 184 cases; 14.1%; $110 (Laurelwood District) 94/100

Ponzi 2019 Aurora Vineyard Pinot Noir

At almost thirty years of age this vineyard is beginning to express delicate old vine characteristics. More subtlety, length and detail are noted from the beguiling aromatics to the layered finish. Strawberries and cherries, mocha and caramel, chocolate and more make this my favorite of the flight. 185 cases; 14.3%; $110 (Laurelwood District) 95/100

Rex Hill 2017 Benchrock Pinot Noir

The winery's Jacob Hart estate vineyard has a special clay block that was the source of this wine; apparently the last vintage from the original (1983) planting. Biodynamically-farmed, it comes with a moderate amount of composty/earthy highlights, set against blood orange and pie cherry fruit. There's an appealing elegance, a delicate frame that yet persists through a long, clean, detailed finish. Currently in a very fine drinking window, but built to age another decade or more. 93 cases; 13.9%; $100 (Chehalem Mountains) 94/100

Rocky Pond 2020 Double D Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon

This is 77% Cabernet; also in the blend are Merlot (18% and Syrah (5%), all from the flagship estate vineyard. This is dark and supple, toasty and firm, with taut black fruits, polished but chewy tannins and a frame of new French oak. Hints of gravel and graphite penetrate the finish and amplify the astringency of the tannins. Clearly at the start of a long life, it's structured like many of Washington's finest Cabernets from Red Mountain and the Horse Heaven Hills. 256 cases; 14.8%; $75 (Columbia Valley) 94/100

Rocky Pond 2020 Tumbled Granite Red

This is 75% Cabernet, 20% Merlot and 5% Syrah, all from the flagship estate vineyard. Compare with the 2020 Cabernet Sauvignon and the stats are almost identical, so this must be a reserve-level selection from all new barrels. With all that new oak it's loaded with baking spices, thus giving it immediate appeal despite its long term aging potential. The dark fruits are typical from the Double D vineyard, and line up taut and polished alongside sharp, polished and balancing tannins. This is a beautifully made wine which should be cellared for at least a few more years and could go into the mid-2030s. Very limited. 90 cases; 15%; $120 (Columbia Valley) 95/100

Soter  2015 Mineral Springs Blanc de Noirs

This is the first Blanc de Noirs from Soter and it's a beauty. A lovely straw hue, with tiny bead and effusive nose, this bottle commemorates the late Michelle Soter. Pure, elegant and expressive, it gathers itself in a concentrated palate replete with passion fruit, ginger, currant and raspberry, finishing with a creamy hint of chocolate. Tasted several times over many days, it held together and lost not a bit of complexity. Drink now and over the next 20 years. 160 cases; 12.8%; $100 (Yamhill-Carlton) 95/100

Soter 2021 Estates Pinot Noir

This is the first Estates release since the 2019, and now includes grapes from Mineral Springs Ranch along with vineyards in the Ribbon Ridge and Eola-Amity Hills AVAs. The lovely aromatics are the first indication that here is something truly special, with a mix of berries, cherries and floral high notes. Supple and detailed, the flavors unfold into subtle layers of marionberry, Bing cherry, chocolate covered espresso beans and crushed seashells. Barrel aging included 30% new oak, lending some penetrating spice to the lingering finish. Definitely ageworthy, but already delicious. 3175 cases; 13.8%; $60 94/100

Trisaetum 2021 Ribbon Ridge Estate Dry Riesling

Compact, dense and detailed, this will need time and a bit of warmth to unpack all its flavors. Serve it too cold and a lot of subtle aromatics and other details are concealed. Warm it up in your glass and a sniff or two yields suggestions of almonds, lime, wet stone, green banana... It fleshes out across the palate adding notes of ginger around a core of crisp apple and Asian pear. Enjoy this now and on through the next decade or longer. 315 cases; 13%; $35 (Ribbon Ridge) 94/100

Trisaetum 2021 Estates Reserve Dry Riesling

This barrel-select reserve is comprised of one third from each the three estate vineyards. It has more concentration and overall power than any of the single vineyard bottlings, which all have their own precision and detail. It's drier than any but the Ribbon Ridge, yet fills out nicely with ripe flavors of citrus, apple, melon and pear. There's a pleasing spicy frame as the wine trails on through a long finish. 98 cases; 13.1%; $45 (Willamette Valley) 94/100

Trisaetum 2021 Wichmann Dundee Estate Riesling

This strikes a balanced tension, as James explains above, between the sugar and the acids. The tart citrus flavors buoy the sweeter tree fruits, and the synergy across the palate is expansive. Lemon drops, tangerine, sweet orange and papaya are in play, with lively tension and excellent length. Though not bone dry, it's perfectly suited for a main course of poultry or fish. 206 cases; 11%; $35 (Dundee Hills) 94/100

Trisaetum 2021 Ribbon Ridge Estate Riesling

As with the dry bottling of the Ribbon Ridge, this is replete with hints and notes of ginger, stone, almond butter and more. The residual sugar lowers the alcohol and ups the roundness across the palate. The tree fruits are emphasized, a mix of ripe citrus, peach and apricot. What is most impressive is that the acids keep everything tight and focused on through a long finish. Drink now and over the next 10-15 years. 206 cases; 11.1%; $35 (Ribbon Ridge) 95/100

Trisaetum 2021 Estates Reserve Riesling

This reserve includes 50% of the Coast Range and 25% each of Trisaetum's other two estate vineyards. It's rich and loaded with very ripe fruit flavors, a stunning mix of citrus, peach, apricot, apricot and cantaloup. As with all the Trisaetum Rieslings the overall balance propels the wine through a long and clean finish. Young as it is the depth and detail are already in place. This is a wine I'd buy in quantity and taste a fresh bottle every 3 or 4 years. 96 cases; 11%; $45 (Willamette Valley) 96/100