Harvesting Joy From Lies and Disasters

Reviews: Jachter, North Valley, Tranche, San Juan Vineyard, Phelps Creek, Weisinger

Thoughts on stories that hit the wine news this past week.

UpWest Wine, a value brand owned by the Central Washington Wine Production Group, made headlines when its production facility in Matawa caught fire mid-afternoon on Tuesday. According to news reports 4.5 million (yes, million) gallons of wine was in tanks on the premises and presumably destroyed. I was first alerted to this by a friend who wondered about the meaning of the phrase “bulk wine solutions” that was the specialty of this business.

The bare bones UpWest website offers varietal wines from recent vintages, line priced at $11.99. A couple of wines from 2022 come in a bit higher, notably a Red Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon at $49.99.

The Central Washington Wine Production Group, formerly J&S Crushing, was founded by growers Jack Jones and Dick Shaw in 2022; both now are deceased. The CWWPG website offers bulk wines “from 280 gallon totes to tankers”. No further information on the after effects of the fire was available this morning but it’s fair to assume that the wine is a total loss given the extent of the fire, which took several hours to control and generated a significant amount of smoke.

The founders owned and controlled over four thousand acres of Washington vineyard, including prime Red Mountain land. This project was focused on sourcing fruit from their own and other sustainable vineyards, upgrading their production facility, and finding a market for vast quantities of wine. Lord knows Washington is in desperate need of projects such as this, creatively finding ways to absorb unsold grapes and wines in the state. My sincere hope is that the company has the resources to rebuild and keep going.

Another story that caught my eye was Tom Wark’s account of an alarmist anti-alcohol campaign launched under the auspices of the New York City Department of Health. I hope you’ll read his entire piece, but the gist of it is that all through the month of May, on subways and social media, in bars and public spaces, over the radio and in community and ethnic publications, the ad campaign fires away with misleading, incomplete statistics. Its sole purpose seems to be to scare the bejesus out of anyone who dares to have so much as a glass of wine with dinner.

Wark goes on to cite a press release from the Journal of Alcohol Studies that proposes extreme warning labels such as this one:

“WARNING: Drinking alcohol causes 7 cancers – mouth, throat, voice box, esophagus, liver, colon and breast cancers.”

He asks why these virulent anti-alcohol campaigns focus exclusively on scare tactics while conveniently leaving out important pieces of the story. Yes, too much drinking can increase certain cancer risks by marginal percentages. But that’s not the point of these anti-alcohol jeremiads. Sadly we are living in a time and a culture where a holier-than-thou minority will seize upon any tactics – no matter how dishonest, illegal or completely unanchored in fact – to impose their values on the rest of us.

Here is a more sane and practical message, in the form of a bookmark created by Margrit Mondavi.

Let’s put the pressure on those lying about the effects of alcohol. In particular we need to separate wine from other alcoholic beverages, and celebrate the things that make it different and more special. Among my most memorable experiences in 40 years of writing about wine was a private lunch I shared with Robert Mondavi. He was on a brief book tour to introduce his biography “Harvests of Joy”. Our lunch extended over three hours, with lengthy discussions about various wines, his personal philosophy and hopes for the positive impact that a life under vine can bring. No one in my life has ever more effectively shown me the beauty and power of wine to transform lives.

Here is the inscription that he wrote for me at the conclusion of that luncheon.

To conclude on another happy note. This past weekend Mrs. G and I had the pleasure of attending a special debut dinner at Todd and Carrie Alexander’s Atelier Waitsburg. They have transformed the former Whoopemup Café into a spacious, artful, multi-purpose wine tasting and pop-up dining space. For this inaugural feast their friends and neighbors Mike and Erin Easton handled the kitchen, while Todd and Carrie poured a broad selection of their wines from both Oregon and France. This opening marks another important step in the renaissance bringing artists and creators to our little town. A real cause for celebration.

Tranche

These first three reviews ran previously prior to the wines being released last fall. They are current and available now. I have not re-tasted them. By and large I do not review wines so far ahead of release, but these slipped on by.

Tranche 2022 Celilo Vineyard Chardonnay – The Celilo vineyard sits in the eastern Cascade foothills high above the Columbia River at the west end of the Columbia Gorge AVA. Acquired in 2015 by Michael Corliss, with further expansion completed over the next couple of years. This Chardonnay is sourced from original blocks planted in 1983-84. It’s youthful, juicy, tart and fruity, with a mix of table grape flavors, lemons, limes, pineapples and green apples. Lots to enjoy here, and the backing acids keep it lively through a finish dotted with tarragon. 353 cases; 13.8%; $48 (Columbia Gorge) 93/100

Tranche 2022 Blue Mountain Vineyard Cabernet Franc – This was one of the first varieties planted at this vineyard under the original ownership. It’s always thrived here, bringing clean, well-defined flavors to the finished wines. Blackberries, spice, herb and a touch of black pepper dotting firm tannins orchestrate the palate. There are lightly gritty suggestions of coffee grounds and dark chocolate. Balanced, forceful and compact, this should be decanted and could age well for decades. 770 cases; 14.5%; $50 (Walla Walla Valley) 94/100

Tranche 2022 Blue Mountain Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon – Assuming this is 100% varietal it strikes a firm and resonant tone for a Walla Walla Cab. It’s layered and dark, tannic and lightly earthy, with compact black fruits, currant and cassis. There’s a seam of savory herb, skin and stem flavors that are woven through the fruit along with slightly bitter new oak sharpness and accents of cold coffee and dark chocolate. It’s a wine that should be decanted for near term drinking, and has already thrown quite a bit of sediment around the cork. I would imagine this could be a two decade wine given the structure. 583 cases; 14.6%; $60 (Walla Walla Valley) 93/100

These next three are new reviews of brand new spring 2026 releases.

Tranche 2025 Celilo Vineyard Pinot Gris – Celilo is one of the oldest sites in the Gorge, though these vines are more recent. This limited release, skin contact wine is a coppery rose color, dry as a desert arroyo, with flavors of sandy soil and lightly oxidized citrus fruits. Candied orange peel highlights and suggestions of clove recall some orange wines, however you wish to interpret that undefined style. Steely and compact, I suggest you chill this down and enjoy with a platter of cured meats and hard cheeses. 87 cases; 12.8%; $28 (Columbia Gorge) 92/100

Tranche 2023 Blue Mountain Vineyard Pape Blanc – This very popular six-variety estate wine pulls together Roussanne, Grenache Blanc, Viognier, Clairette Blanche, Picpoul and a splash of Marsanne. A spicy, focused mix of lemon, lime, grapefruit and tangerine, it was fermented in French oak barrels, 8% new. Beautifully balanced and lively, it holds its tight, compact balance start to finish. 874 cases; 13.8%; $35 (Walla Walla Valley) 92/100

Tranche 2023 Blue Mountain Vineyard Grenache – Often part of a blend, here released as a solo varietal for only the second time, this limited edition wine is a muscular, tannic expression in a tight, compact style. Give it plenty of time to breathe and brambly purple and black mountain berries populate the tannic center. Streaks of espresso, black tea and tobacco add further texture and flavor interest. With more density and weight than many fruitier versions of Grenache, this ultimately opens up into a burst of blueberry pie. 116 cases; 14.6%; $45 (Walla Walla Valley) 94/100

Jachter Family

The 2023 wines were produced at Sequitur under the direction of Jared Etzel. Subsequently Myles Nelson has taken over as winemaker. I queried him about these new releases. I was struck by the fact that these were all made with grapes from the first harvest at the estate vineyard. I wondered if (and why) all other vineyard sources had been eliminated in 2023. I can’t recall ever before seeing a winery devote its entire lineup to fruit from three year old vines. Here is the response from Myles (edited for length).

“In 2023 we sourced exclusively from our estate vineyard; in 2024 and moving forward we have partnered with local growers to purchase small amounts of Pinot Noir with the intention of producing single vineyard wines. A lot of thought and planning went into the decision to source exclusively from the estate vineyard at this young age.

“[Previously] we had been sourcing wine grapes from the vineyard right next door to the property. The goal was to get a better idea of the type and quality of wines that could be expected from the estate vineyard. The neighboring vineyard proved to be quite high quality and stylistically similar to the grapes that came off the estate vineyard. There are some differences in aspect, soil type, and clonal selection but not so different that we couldn’t glean some understanding of what we might expect from our estate.

“In 2020 the vineyard was planted mostly with two-season, hardened-off young vines instead of freshly grafted cuttings. This helped the three year old vineyard behave more similarly to a four year old vineyard. Their first summer in the ground in 2021 was the summer of the ‘heat dome’ – the only time the vineyard has seen any watering. Since then there has been no irrigation applied, which helps to encourage the vines to grow deeper and more substantial root systems.

“The team has worked diligently to nurture the growth of the young vines under dry farmed, organic, and regenerative tenets. We are also working on adding No/Low Till practices into the mix. We have had sheep run in the vineyard in the spring for the past few years which helps to offset several mowing tractor passes. By treating the vineyard in the best way we knew how, the team believed that the fruit quality from such a young vineyard would prove true. So in 2023 the team decided to source exclusively from the estate vineyard.”

Here are my notes on these new spring ‘26 releases:

Jachter 2023 The J Reserve Estate Chardonnay – Sourced from the young vineyard making its debut in the vintage, this barrel selection sees 40% new French oak and feels just a touch riper than the regular estate bottling. That suggests a need for a little extra bottle age in order to balance everything out. At the moment the toast and butter and coconut barrel accents are front and center. Nonetheless, the outstanding fruit has been beautifully managed. Anchored in slippery acids, it retains its balance through the finish. 126 cases; 12.8%; $95 (Chehalem Mountains) 95/100

Jachter 2023 Estate Pinot Noir – This vintage marks the debut of Pinot Noir from the estate vineyard, planted in 2020. First bottle - not reviewable – disjointed, showing signs of incomplete fermentation. Second bottle - very tannic, in better condition, but still too young to show its best. After a full day being open it starts to unwrap - black fruits, char, espresso, slightly grainy tannins. This needs another year or two of bottle age. 280 cases; 13.8%; $65 (Chehalem Mountains) 91/100

Upcoming fall releases:

Jachter 2023 Estate Chardonnay – This new estate vineyard is on land reclaimed from its previous use… wait for it… as a defunct rodeo bull farm. This debut vintage is made in the modern style that is elevating Willamette Valley Chardonnay into the ranks of the finest in the world. It impresses with its balance, focus, ripeness, depth and detail. Sweet/tart juicy fruit flavors of lemon, lime, pineapple, Cosmic Crisp apples, melon and touches of papaya combine, elevated with time in one quarter new oak. Toast, buttery pie crust, and apple pie caramel flavors trail out the long finish. 303 cases; 12.8%; $65 (Chehalem Mountains) 95/100

Jachter 2023 Block 15 Estate Pinot Noir – This block selection from the premier release showcasing this new estate vineyard has immediate appeal and focus. It’s tannic, earthy and firm, with blackberry and black currant fruit. Aged 10 months in 44% new oak, it shows a toasty nose and frame, earthy wood and soil flavors, balancing acids and a strong finish. 225 cases; 13.8%; $77 (Chehalem Mountains) 91/100

Jachter 2023 Cuvée Karen Ann Estate Pinot Noir – As noted above, Jachter changed vineyard sources in 2023, so this is made from the first harvest of the vineyard planted in 2020. This is a reserve selection, given 10 months in 20% new French oak. The emphasis is on pretty cherry fruit, red and black, buttressed with chewy, grainy tannins. More time in bottle may help meld it further, but what will really make a difference is more time to let the vineyard fill out its unquestioned potential. 125 cases; 13.8%; $95 (Ribbon Ridge) 91/100

North Valley Vineyards

This past harvest (2025) marked James Cahill’s 30th vintage working with Pinot Noir in the Willamette Valley. James is the founder and winemaker of North Valley Vineyards and previously held key roles at Beaux Frères, Elk Cove and Soter Vineyards. There are two estate vineyards – the North Valley vineyard in Yamhill-Carlton is adjacent to Shea and Penner-Ash; the Aegrina vineyard in the McMinnville AVA was started in 2007-08 under the direction of Lynn Penner-Ash.

North Valley 2023 Classic Chardonnay – Quality grapes sourced from Le Cadeau, Gran Moraine and Aegrina (estate) vineyards. Vinified in a mix of stainless steel and mostly neutral oak, this is not for long term holding but quite nice right now. Mixed fruits with moderate acids, plus streaks of lemon custard and nectarine. This vintage is still listed on the website, though the 2024 has just been released. 280 cases; 13.1%; $35 (Willamette Valley) 92/100

North Valley 2023 Gran Moraine Vineyard Reserve Chardonnay – Light for a reserve, with lemon and apple, tangerine and a touch of melon. It stops short and feels just a bit under-ripe. Perfectly pleasant, but the Classic is a better value. 205 cases; 13.1%; $50 (Yamhill-Carton) 91/100

North Valley 2023 Classic Pinot Noir – Blending grapes from five different AVAs mellows out the particularities into a smooth, balanced and accessible representation of a Willamette Valley Pinot. Notes of dried lavender and chamomile tea carry on through the medium-long finish. This vintage is still listed on the website, but here again the 2024 has already been released. 1800 cases; 13.3%; $35 (Willamette Valley) 91/100

North Valley 2023 Reserve Pinot Noir – Both estate vineyards along with grapes from Thoma and X-Omni are in the blend, creating a wine with brambly fruit, herbal spice and thread of black tea and tobacco. Good volume, balance and texture all the way through. 765 cases; 13.7%; $50 (Willamette Valley) 92/100

Single Vineyard Series

North Valley 2023 Thoma Vineyard Pinot Noir – Cranberry and black cherry fruit, barrel toast and a suggestion of barnyard funk come together here. It’s balanced and proportionate, with a pleasing texture and medium length. Drinks just as well on the second day, a good sign for cellaring. 187 cases; 13.3%; $65 (Dundee Hills) 93/100

North Valley 2023 X-Omni Vineyard Pinot Noir – X-Omni fruit, like grapes from Shea, is in high demand and virtually infallible. This wine is poised and balanced between tangy acids and tight black fruits, and remains focused and persistent through the finish. Aeration is recommended. Tasted after 24 hours it holds firm. 75 cases; 13.2%; $65 (Eola-Amity Hills) 93/100

North Valley 2023 Aegrina Estate Vineyard Pinot Noir – This is a complex, layered and well-textured wine from one of the most distinctive sub-AVAs in the Willamette Valley. There’s a minerally base, and threads of wild raspberries, clean earth, fresh garden herbs and a touch of citrus rind. It’s beautifully rendered, and with an extra year of bottle age any rough edges are smoothing out. One third new French oak, but those barrels remain in the background. Terrific length and the structure for 10 - 15 years of further development. 189 cases; 13.4%; $65 (McMinnville) 94/100

North Valley 2023 North Valley Estate Vineyard Pinot Noir – A succulent, sexy style, this is loaded with brambly fruit, accented with cocoa powder and coffee, and streaked with citrus and cedar. One third of the barrels were new. The two estate vineyards are in widely separate locations and deliver deliciously different flavors; both reward your attention. 196 cases; 13.5%; $75 (Yamhill-Carton) 95/100

Phelps Creek

Phelps Creek 2025 Gorge Crest Vineyard Gewürztraminer – Perfumed in the classic way that Gewürztraminer wines from Alsace display, this will please those who appreciate this unique grape in its unbridled form. Sourced from an Underwood Mountain vineyard and aged in neutral oak, it’s finished dry. The flavors carry its floral scents on through the palate with touches of lemon polish and citrus rind. 87 cases; 14.1%; $28 (Columbia Gorge) 92/100

Phelps Creek 2025 Fleur de Roy Rosé of Pinot Noir – Pale copper, this appealing rosé brings flavors of white strawberries and green apples. All estate-grown grapes were fermented in stainless steel prior to bottling. Hints of apple skin, lemon verbena and mint populate the finish. Good balance and length. 231 cases; 13.2%; $28 (Columbia Gorge) 91/100

Phelps Creek 2025 Le Petit Pinot Noir – Le Petit is a carbonic maceration, French Beaujolais-inspired bottling of 100% whole cluster, estate-grown Pinot Noir. Made for early drinking, it hits a bulls-eye, aromatically inviting with a complex weave of floral, berry and herbal flavors. If a chillable red is your joy, this hits the mark, with the texture, depth and tannin to show well at any temperature. 288 cases; 12.8%; $28 (Columbia Gorge) 91/100

San Juan Vineyard

San Juan Vineyard 2024 Madeleine Angevine – A signature variety from this Washington AVA, which covers the islands in the Puget Sound, this is a bright, tangy, lively white wine loaded with mixed citrus fruits. It has the depth and density of fruit flavor to offset the acids, and when chilled down it can be a perfect hot weather, all-purpose, highly versatile wine. 224 cases; 12.7%; $35 (Puget Sound) 91/100

San Juan Vineyard 2024 Siegerrebe – This is a wonderfully aromatic white grape, with floral/citrus scents that I’d place somewhere between dry Gewurztraminer and a lighter Viognier. Suggestions of lemon polish, honeysuckle and citrus blossom adorn fruit flavors of mixed apples and tangerines, all sculpted into an elegant, beautifully balanced wine that can grace any picnic table. Chill it and enjoy! 198 cases; 12.2%; $35 (Puget Sound) 92/100

San Juan Vineyard 2025 Afterglow Rosé – A GSC blend sourced from Walla Walla’s Blue Mountain vineyard, this is one of the rare rosés that deserves to be called luscious. Fermented in steel and concrete, it’s aromatic and textured, with lovely layers of peaches and pears. The mid-palate is expansive and lingers on through a long finish with flavors of cookie dough and butter cookies. You’ll pay a little more for this than for many rosés, but it rewards that investment with exceptional depth of flavor. 413 cases; 12.8%; $35 (Walla Walla Valley) 93/100

San Juan Vineyard 2024 Barren Rock Red – A GSM blend sourced from estate vineyards, this opens with impressive aromatics pushing purple plums and berries into the mid-palate. It’s a fruit-driven wine, forward and attractive, backed with moderate to light tannins and forest floor accents. 125 cases; 14.7%; $40 (Columbia Valley) 91/100

San Juan Vineyard 2023 Cattle Point Red – Though bottled under the San Juan label, this is a Red Mountain wine, 55% Cabernet Franc, 44% Cabernet Sauvignon and a 1% topping of Petit Verdot. All estate-grown, with fruit from the expansive Corliss portfolio. It’s well-structured, showing excellent balance where many Red Mountain reds can fly over the top with alcohol touching 16%. Here the two Cabernet grapes are given room to express more than just ripe fruit; the weave of herb and soil and stem and skin flavors adds depth and texture to the finished wine. 21 months in French oak, and perhaps some new barrels were involved, adding toast and espresso accents around the lightly grainy tannins. 297 cases; 14.1%; $45 (Red Mountain) 93/100

Weisinger Family Winery

Weisinger 2024 Avra Vineyard Viognier – Soft, even silky, perfumed with honeysuckle and body powder aromas. Well balanced with firm structure and pinpoint ripeness. 116 cases; 14%; $36 (Rogue Valley) 92/100

Weisinger 2023 Estate Tempranillo – Dusty red fruits carry tart flavors of strawberries, cut grass and clean earth. Tempranillo seems to have found a home in Southern Oregon. This is a balanced wine, medium weight with a grassy note trailing out. 190 cases; 14.5%; $49 (Rogue Valley) 89/100

Weisinger 2022 Buxton Vineyard Cabernet Franc – Just released, this has a solid core of blueberry and blackberry fruit framed with mixed phenolic flavors of earth and stem. Aged in 30% new barrels it remains a bit tight and tannic. Aerate aggressively and drink now and over the next three years. 150 cases; 14.5%; $45 (Rogue Valley) 90/100

From The Cellar

I pulled a selection of Anderson Family wines from my cellar this weeek and was utterly gobsmacked by how well they age. Especially the amazing 2015 Chardonnay, which I finished with great pleasure two days after it was first opened.

Anderson 2015 Chardonnay – A decade old, this is drinking like a dream. Amazingly fresh, loaded with textured minerality, crisp tree fruits and a seam of caramel. The finish on this amazing wine is almost endless. Congratulations to everyone at Anderson Family Vineyards. Today’s score – 97/100.

Anderson 2020 Chardonnay – This has the wonderful texture that highlights many Anderson Chardonnays. Immaculate and wonderfully fresh, it’s almost as if it was bottled last year, not five years ago. Crisp flavors of apple, celery and fresh green herbs, sassy acids and a touch of butterscotch are in the mix. Given the excellence of the 2015 I would imagine this has many years of life ahead. Today’s score – 95/100.

Anderson 2017 Select Pinot Noir – this is the reserve bottling. Big, dark, tight, firm, starting to show secondary fig and pastry flavors of blackberries and black cherry pie. Big, full, fresh, loaded with fruit and exceptionally dense. Wow! Today’s score – 96/100

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