Goodbye Cheap Wine? Hello Premiumization!
A look at emerging wine trends and a detailed review of new releases from WeathereEye
Interesting and conflicting currents are roiling the global wine industry.
The trends seem contradictory and counterintuitive (at least to me) given that consumers are drifting away from wine and toward a plethora of other alcoholic and non-alcoholic beverages. Beer, cocktails, hard sodas, ciders and more new options have slowly but surely eaten away at overall wine consumption, even as boomers age out and calculate how to drink down their wine cellars before, well, you get the idea.
So wouldn't that suggest that demand for cheap wine would rise, as it would be more competitive price-wise with the alternatives? But it may be that the opposite is true. A story out of Australia this week noted that Treasury Wine Estates is shutting down a 50-year-old winery and selling vineyard assets because its budget brands such as 19 Crimes, Lindeman's and Wolf Blass are not selling well enough to keep the doors open.
Blaming changing consumer trends, wine preferences and so-called "environmental factors" a Treasury spokesperson noted that global tastes have tilted toward more expensive, high quality wines and away from cheaper (let's say supermarket-friendly) brands. 19 Crimes is notable because its sales took off during the pandemic thanks to the endorsement by Snoop Dogg. But trendy is as trendy does and apparently the celebrity glow has faded, and rather quickly.
Wine trends are difficult to predict, and this one is subject to closer scrutiny. On the same day I read the Treasury story another piece (this one out of England) asked if the premiumization trend is all but over. Quoting statistics from DISCUS (the Distilled Spirits Council of the U.S.) the story (published in the Drinks Business) notes that inflation in particular has slowed, though not ended, rising sales of higher-priced wines and spirits.
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And for those seeking rare, unique, downright cult-worthy offerings take a gander at WeatherEye. Here are my notes on the latest releases from atop Red Mountain.
WeatherEye 2021 Hillfighter Estate White Wine
This is a tight, focused, dense and flavorful 100% Roussanne. It's yeasty, compact and layered with herbal tea, honeycomb, wet hay, dried pineapple and apricot. Unusual and fascinating, with exceptional length. 58 cases; 15%, $45 (Red Mountain) 92/100
WeatherEye 2021 Estate Roussanne
Yeasty, almost beery flavors underscore an unusual Roussanne from the vineyard atop Red Mountain. The flavors mingle citrus and stone, fruit and rind, with well-balanced acids. Native yeast adds subtle and elegant floral/botanical highlights. 51 cases; 14.5%; $85 (Red Mountain) 91/100
WeatherEye 2021 Estate Marsanne
A burnished gold, this dense and aromatic wine shows some of the oxidative characteristics of an orange wine, along with the wild, feral scents of native yeasts. The expected fresh fruit flavors are muted, while texture, depth and minerality are highlighted. The finish edges close to a bit of lingering heat, along with marzipan and nut oil. 80 cases; 14.8%; $85 (Red Mountain) 91/100
WeatherEye 2021 Estate Clairette
A lightly lemony white grape rarely found in this country. It's becoming less and less common in southern France, where it is one of a half dozen white grapes allowed in Chateauneuf-du-Pape Blanc. This pure varietal bottling was whole cluster pressed and fermented in amphora and neutral wood. It's spicy and rich, palate-coating and flavorful with apple, melon, popcorn and saline notes. 46 cases; 14.8%; $85 (Red Mountain) 92/100
WeatherEye 2021 L'atomique Estate White Wine
The deep coppery gold color is from extended skin contact, and the winery notes that this is not an oxidative style, nor is it an orange wine. The mixed varieties – 40% Viognier, 33% Roussanne, 16% Clairette, 7% Marsanne, 4% Grenache Blanc – were picked together, de-stemmed, and fermented on the skins until almost dry, then barreled down to finish. It's strikingly aromatic with orange blossom, tangerine and chamomile highlights. The flavors linger and turn astringent through the finish. This is a one-of-a-kind wine from a one-of-a-kind vineyard. 56 cases; 15%; $85 (Red Mountain) 92/100
WeatherEye 2020 Hillfighter Estate Red Wine
This is a spicy blend – 40% Cabernet Sauvignon, 39% Grenache, 11% Merlot, 5% Tempranillo, 5% Syrah – with drying, astringent tannins. The core flavors bring tight, concentrated black fruits, espresso, charred wood and burnt tobacco. This is a bold, sturdy wine, well-structured and leaning heavily into the dark side. Much improved on the second day; it smoothed out, opened up and was enjoyed down to the last drop. 250 cases; 15%, $55 (Red Mountain) 93/100
WeatherEye 2020 Estate Grenache
Made with native yeast, 25% whole cluster, in concrete and open top fermenters, this was finished in large format neutral oak. It's a splendid Grenache, with massive red and black fruits that vibrate through an electric core. Far more than just a fruit bomb, this wine evolves, expands and radiates through an extended finish. 180 cases; 14.8%; $85 (Red Mountain) 94/100
WeatherEye 2020 Estate Syrah
This was fermented in concrete and open top stainless fermenters with native yeast and 10% whole clusters, then finished in 20% new French oak large oak vessels. It's solidly varietal, with veins of iodine, licorice, black tea, licorice, espresso and... well you get the drift. Black stuff! These are young vines with enormous potential. 230 cases; 15%; $85 (Red Mountain) 93/100
WeatherEye 2020 Estate Mourvèdre
All varietal WeatherEye wines are 100% the variety named. Native yeast is the standard at WeatherEye, here done with 15% whole cluster fruit. Aged in a moderate (10%) percentage of new oak, this exceptional wine clearly defines this grape (which is most often found in a blend) as a single varietal. Lightly savory, with peppery red fruits, it's a subtle red despite the medium high abv. The limited new oak exposure brings a hint of sandalwood to the finish. Give it plenty of breathing time and it opens up broadly with lush, palate-coating flavors. 70 cases; 14.6%; $85 (Red Mountain) 93/100
WeatherEye 2020 Estate Tempranillo
A bold style, bursts open with juicy/jammy blackberry and black cherry fruit. It was fermented with native yeast in stainless steel and then aged 22 months in 50% new French oak. As the abv on all WeatherEye wines suggests, they are fully ripe and relatively alcoholic. It's a consistent style across the entire portfolio. I suspect this Tempranillo will drink better and better over the next five years. 100 cases; 14.7%; $85 (Red Mountain) 92/100
WeatherEye 2020 Estate Cabernet Sauvignon
I don't know many if any pure Cabernets that were fermented in concrete and closed top stainless fermenters as was the case here. Native yeast is the standard at WeatherEye. This was finished in 60% new French oak over 22 months. The tannins are so astringent that they soak up the flavors.. Even after a full day the tannins did not soften up at all. 180 cases; 15%; $130 (Red Mountain) N/R
I’m with Paul V , Paul G. CSM likely made their 1975 CS in Grandview (awesome) and Francois Mitjaville makes his Tetre Roeteboueff amazing wines in concrete tanks (as Rick Small told me) too. It’s not the tank’s fault. Tannins are entirely the credit/fault of the winemaker, not their vessels. It’s not the grill’s fault my burgers are dried out; it’s mine.
Many Loire valley wines are fermented and aged in concrete tanks. Anyway, the French don’t celebrate concrete tanks since it’s so common to them.
And I’m seeing wines sales all broken up into highly variable worlds. Dave’s comments are good. Small 45-120 case productions can regularly go for 85-120$. And while buyers do take those wines, many go as singles rarely by the case, which years ago in say 2007, they did. Everything is more changed and tossed around by both distributors, stores selling liquor, and dtc internet sales, plus discounters clearing house email lists like last bottle or Big Hammer Wines. It’s turning into chaos in the sales world and slipping towards the lowest price on lost gallons which inflation squeezes producers from cost of goods below.
CSM was fermenting Cabernet in concrete since the beginning at Grandview. The only facility old enough in Washington to far ahead of the new trend chasers!
For years now they also have 100 ton closed top tanks for Cab. Astonishing technology, roll over cap management and automated unloading of pomace.