From The Sky Down – An exciting exploration of single vineyard Cabernet Sauvignons
Plus important new releases from Holocene, Soter and more
This week I paid a visit to Atelier Freewater, the just-opened headquarters for a number of brands made by Force Majeure’s Todd Alexander. In an old bank building that was most recently a bread and steak restaurant, it’s been transformed into a spacious and tastefully spare but welcoming space that is on track to become the anchor for a revitalized old town Milton-Freewater. Here’s how Todd describes it in a recent Facebook post.
“In summer 2023 we bought a bank building that was built in 1906 in old town Freewater, 15 minutes south of the city of Walla Walla, on the Oregon side of the Walla Walla Valley. It needed a lot of help cosmetically, but it already had a commercial kitchen and it had the original old bank vault in place.
“We decided to take this as an opportunity to create something special in the southern part of the Valley, a bit hidden away from downtown Walla Walla, in an area that we think has a lot of potential. It took months to replace appliances, paint, refresh and outfit the interior, repair and paint the exterior, etc. We are finally at a point where we can open the doors. You are invited to come here, spend some time and taste many wines I make – Holocene, Force Majeure, WeatherEye, some new projects not yet announced, Beatus and soon the wines we are making elsewhere in France as well.
“We also plan to feature a rotating selection of wines from all over, wines that we like and are inspired by – both for tasting and for sale. And we will soon begin the Dinner Series - visiting chefs and quarterly dinners (we can seat up to 30) with variations on themes. These are going to be a lot of fun. We have a few coming up, leading up to and including Hospice du Rhône in April. If you are already in the area, or if you plan to visit, consider this an open invite to come and see what we are up to.
We are calling the space @atelierfreewater - open by appointment or by chance. Best way to find out what’s happening is to get on the email list at the website, and you can book a tasting there too. Hope to see you soon.”
Having seen the place, I’d suggest you immediately make a reservation to visit. Coming up are a number of major springtime events here in the Valley – Cayuse weekend, Spring release, Rhone Rangers and more. A visit to the Atelier Freewater should go to the top of your to-do list.
While there I had the chance to taste three wines from one of the new projects Todd references, all due for release shortly. They will bear the name “From The Sky Down” which the winery explains “implies terroir, encompasses all the elements that impact each site and vintage. The philosophy is to look at the natural characteristics inherent in each vineyard and empower the winemaker to capture the expression of each single place and time. In short, to view everything first from the sky down.”
The wine venture is being partnered with Bryan Otis (Matthews owner – see my profile earlier this month). Todd explained that since the Matthews wines are all blends, “Bryan wanted to do a single vineyard Cabernet that was a snapshot of single vineyard time and place. This is my thing – what I do” he added. That turned into a project exploring Cabernet from select sites throughout Washington – three in 2021 (profiled below), and additional offerings coming up from Les Collines in ’22 and Pepper Bridge in ‘23. “We’re exploring these different sites,” says Todd, “to see which ones we want to keep.”
I tasted all three wines pre-release; in fact they had not yet been labeled so no label photo. But they will be available soon and I am posting up my notes as a heads-up for those who want to get on board with these exceptional offerings. In addition here are notes on the latest releases from Holocene. In my next Substack I’ll dive into the new Force Majeure wines.
From The Sky Down 2021 Conner Lee Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon – Beautifully aromatic; this hits the palate thick and rich with a rush of brambly fruits. About 70% of the barrels were new and the texture and aromatics are there to prove it. This is truly one of the finest wines from this vineyard in my experience; replete with roasted flavors of black fruits, wild herbs and coffee grounds. The fine-grained tannins and trailing accents of toasted cashews and almond paste add to the pleasure. 500 cases; 14.7%; $250 (Columbia Valley) 96/100
TA: “Conner-Lee is now owned by Lawrence family. There is 5% Merlot in this wine. I like the fresh, vibrant impact of the Merlot – kind of a spice box in the blend. It definitely makes it pop, adds freshness, red fruits, fresh flower. These are Cabernet vines from late 1980s, probably all clone 8 which is all they planted back then. About 70% new barrels – I like to get texture and aromatics from the oak.”
From The Sky Down 2021 Solaksen Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon – This is a firm, dark, lightly smoky, muscular wine. Juicy, brambly, toasty, savory highlights and dusty/grainy tannins. It brings up the herbal/savory side of Cabernet, framed against a rich background of toasted hazelnuts. As it breathes the tannins expand, and the wine becomes more mouth filling, showing dense black fruits, espresso and char in a long and textured finish. Quite young and definitely ageworthy, this is a challenging and compelling wine. 650 cases; 14.8%; $250 (Royal Slope) 96/100
TA: “Solaksen is a southwest facing hillside, another one of the Lawrence vineyards. I said I want the hill, and clone 337 I really like. It reminds me of Diamond Creek – a reference point for me – especially the tannin profile. For me having been a single vineyard winemaker I know terroir is a real thing; you can find ways to amplify/accentuate the things you want. But you don’t want to cover up things so the terroir is unrecognizable. They have to be pleasurable, delicious wines, but also intellectual. Not just hedonistic, but not just something you want to think about. In between is where my philosophy lies.”
From The Sky Down 2021 Heart of the Hill Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon – Packed with black fruits, dried herbs, sagebrush and firm, fine-grained tannins, this is classic Red Mountain Cabernet. It’s dense and dark through the core flavors, with layers of of char, baking chocolate and espresso grounds. Despite the heft and power, it maintains its balance throughout, from the explosive aromatics to the long, mouth-coating finish. The tannins are ripe, polished, firm and dense – perfectly ready for decades of cellaring. The finish resonates as long as you taste for it; it fades like the last notes on the Beatles Sergeant Pepper album. 325 cases; 14.9%; $250 (Red Mountain) 97/100
TA: “When I worked at Bryant the thought was that wine should be unapproachable when it’s young. The world has moved on from that. There are so many factors that make a wine ageworthy. I’m for gentle extraction, longer maceration (like an infusion) – I don’t have to flip tanks. I don’t have to rush anything to create space. If a wine needs more time on the skins I can give it more time. To make the best wines you need time and space.”
The Holocene project is Todd Alexander’s ode to Willamette Valley Pinot Noir. These wines are highly allocated. The 2022s are currently available; contact the winery for details My notes for the 2021's were first posted a year ago and are repeated here for context. The notes for the 2022 wines are brand new.
Holocene 2022 Sidereal Pinot Noir – This new cuvée is all Pommard clone, sourced from one of the most distinctive and expressive Willamette Valley sub-AVAs. The wine is juicy with lip-licking tartness. Not sour, but hinting at sour candy tang. Raspberries and marionberries, underscored with the subtle seashell minerality that is characteristic of Ribbon Ridge. Apart from my professional enthusiasm for this wine, as a consumer this is a total bullseye – it absolutely nails my personal preferences for great Oregon Pinot Noir. This should age beautifully for decades. 196 cases; 13.7%; $65 (Ribbon Ridge) 95/100
Holocene 2022 Memorialis Pinot Noir – Complex aromas of underbrush, soil and fungus pop out immediately. The earthy mid-palate weaves a tangle of wild berries, rhubarb and lemon curd, accented with peppery herbs and a dash of truffle salt. The source is unknown, but the flavors strongly suggest a biodynamic vineyard. 284 cases; 13.6%; $65 (Yamhill-Carlton) 93/100
Holocene 2021 Memorialis Pinot Noir – Aromatic and penetrating, with luscious brambly red fruits, this deftly mixes those slightly candied fruit flavors with broader highlights of Dr. Pepper, hot cinnamon candy and lemon drops. Wow – a lot going on here. Give this one a good look over plenty of time. Still drinking well on day four! 260 cases; 13.5%; $65 (Yamhill-Carlton) 95/100
Holocene 2021 Apocrypha Pinot Noir – This young wine is firmly rooted in blue and black fruits, supple yet forceful, with ample and balanced acids and polished tannins. The dense tangle of underbrush, herbs and earth elements underlying all of the above points toward biodynamic farming. It's a full-bodied, captivating wine that may require some years to unfold. Drink now through mid-2030s. 170 cases; 13.8%; $65 (Willamette Valley) 95/100
Catching Up – Best wines from recent tastings
These are previews from the upcoming vintage. Not yet listed on the website.
Coyote Canyon 2023 Concrete Fermented Albariño – Some Albariños are acidic and bright, with lots of citrus. This version ripens into a lush mix of citrus, tree fruits and touches of melon and papaya. For such a young wine it is already smooth and quite drinkable, with medium body and plenty of fleshy fruit. 112 cases; 13.4%; $32 (Horse Heaven Hills) 90/100
Coyote Canyon 2023 Marsanne – In the blend are Viognier and Roussanne. Very young and just bottled I hesitate to jump to conclusions. It’s in a totally primary state, needing some bottle age to really show itself. Right now banana, marshmallow, white peach and lemon zest. With a good airing this opens up nicely. Another year in the bottle would be optimal drinking time. 112 cases; 12.9%; $22 (Horse Heaven Hills) 91/100
Coyote Canyon 2021 Tempranillo – This got one new American oak barrel along with two used French oak barrels. Still young and newly released, the chocolate impact of the new barrel needs more time to resolve. Hints of baking spices add interest to the mixed red and blue fruits. 70 cases; 14.7%; $? (Horse Heaven Hills) 90/100
Coyote Canyon 2021 Barbera – A lovely wine showing the hints of tomato along with red currant and raspberry that distinguish Barbera. The palate is smooth and supple, the use of both French and American oak judicious and appropriate to the weight of the wine. It finishes with a spark of acidity, very refreshing. 140 cases; 14.5%; $39 (Horse Heaven Hills) 91/100
Coyote Canyon 2021 Tres Cruces – This is essentially a GSM – two thirds Syrah, the rest split between Grenache and Mourvèdre. It’s most appealing, with full-bodied red and black fruits, a wash of barrel flavors, spice and chocolate, and underlying it all a base of salty underbrush. Kudos to grower Mike Andrews and winemaker Justin Michaud for making a fine group of inviting, flavorful and affordable? reds. 140 cases; 14.7%; $39 (Horse Heaven Hills) 92/100
Dineen 2021 Merlot – This lightly-ripened example brings a lot of savory herbal flavors along with tart red fruits such as pomegranate and currant. Some exposure to new oak adds buttered toast to a creamy finish. Tannins are proportionate and the overall balance is fine. Just released. 14.2%; $42 (Yakima Valley) 90/100
Dineen 2021 Syrah – Bold, classic Yakima Valley Syrah scents and flavors abound – tangy loganberry fruit accented with highlights of black olive, mushroom, bacon fat, coffee and cream. Medium weight and showing plenty of acidity, this is anchored in savory flavors of moist underbrush. Released last fall. 14.5%; $42 (Yakima Valley) 90/100
Soter 2021 Estates Chardonnay – Barrel fermented and put through 100% malolactic fermentation, this opens as a pungent, penetrating wine with sharp edges. The secondary fermentation has helped to soften the acids, and generous aeration (or additional bottle age) helps to further meld the fruit and barrel flavors. The wine has a ripe pineapple flavor with accents of citrus and a touch of butterscotch. 1068 cases; 13.2%; $60 (Willamette Valley) 94/100
Soter 2022 Estates Pinot Noir – The Estates series now draws from recent vineyard acquisitions in the Eola-Amity Hills and Ribbon Ridge AVAs. Half of this wine was sourced from Ribbon Ridge, clone unknown, but it has the power and purity of Pommard. It’s a very pretty wine, seductive and elegant. I love the synergy of the three vineyards, the inclusion of one quarter whole cluster fermentation, and judicious use of just 30% new oak. All spot on, nicely integrated already, and deliciously packed with black fruits, tar and black tea tannins. Those tannins show some trailing astringency that softens nicely with a bit of extra time in the glass. 3473 cases; 13.6%; $60 (Willamette Valley) 95/100
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Thanks, Paul! Todd is a master of his craft. Our region is lucky to have him here.