From The Complaint Department

Plus: updates and new releases from Ducleaux, Fairsing, Long Walk, Sidereus, Soos Creek & Walnut Ridge

A few days ago I got an email from a winemaker asking if I’d had a chance to taste the wines they had submitted. I answered that I had, and that I’d given them a good long look. But I would not be recommending them. Recognizing that this was sensitive ground, I tried to tread lightly, explaining that there was nothing bad about the wines, but they just didn’t rise above their peers.

The winemaker responded by telling me that the wines had received very good scores and recommendations from a national publication. And they had – I looked it up and confirmed that indeed two of the wines I’d passed on had been very favorably reviewed elsewhere.

It’s no great revelation that different reviewers and publications can arrive at very different conclusions about the same wines. And it makes perfect sense that a winery should take the best possible reviews and use those to market their wares. Telling me that someone else had a better impression of their wines doesn’t really accomplish much except perhaps to assuage some hurt feelings.

Before I began writing this Substack I gave a lot of thought to how and why and what I wanted to accomplish. Being freed from any institutional guidelines and requirements, I felt it was important to re-think my approach to tasting and reviewing, and to set clear guidelines. And so I have.

My guidelines are as follows:

1) I will taste every wine submitted and give them all careful consideration.

2) I will post up reviews only for those that are standouts in their peer group. For example, if I’m tasting $50 Willamette Valley Pinot Noir, the ones I recommend will deliver more than the average quality to be expected in that peer group.

3) That doesn’t mean that all wines profiled here are extraordinary, but they are better than the median bottle from the same grape, blend, AVA and/or vintage. With my focus on Pacific NW wines, which I’ve tasted by the thousands every year for the past three decades, I have built a strong sense of typicity, along with a lot of experience evaluating a wide range of styles.

4) In practical terms, almost all the wines I recommend will have scores of 90 and above. The exceptions would be some experimental or unique wines which fall outside of traditional boundaries but which are interesting in their own right.

5) I offer wineries the chance to see their non-published reviews if they request them.

6) If I have done an in-depth story about a particular winery within the past six months I will include their newest releases in one of these “Catching Up” wraps but save another longer piece for a later time.

7) I absolutely encourage wineries to submit all wines, including club wines, so that I may evaluate them in the context of a full portfolio. Tasting just one or two wines out of a catalog of dozens does not give me the opportunity to do that.

8) I will link my reviews to winery websites whenever possible. The goal is to drive business directly to your winery, which is especially important to the sorts of small, family-owned businesses that are the majority of those I profile.

9) I value your input, ask for your support, and encourage everyone in the business of marketing and selling wines to use my scores and reviews in any way that supports your efforts.

Now let’s catch up on some very interesting new releases. Click on the winery name to go to the website and purchase wines.

Ducleaux Cellars

This winery is getting a lot of buzz around Walla Walla. Of particular interest is the debut of an estate-grown wine. The vineyard is in the Rocks District but rather isolated and shows a different aspect of the AVA.

Ducleaux 2021 Matriarch White – This Roussanne/Marsanne blend is the first release from the Belle Roche estate vineyard. It’s a fine debut, and as is often true of wines from young vines, it bursts open with luscious fruits front and center. Lemons, peaches, grapefruit, apricots are all in play, with a creamy mouthfeel gently backed by supple acids. This is a delicious and uncommon white wine from a Rocks District vineyard. 98 cases; 13.8%; $34 (The Rocks District) 91/100

Ducleaux 2019 Raucous Red – This is principally Grenache blended with 10% each Syrah and Mourvèdre – a fragrant, compelling wine with grip and panache. The black fruits are grounded in clean earth and accented with graphite and coffee grounds. The overall dark, smoky flavors suggest grilled ribs and steaks as an accompaniment. The extra years of bottle age reward the taster with a smoother finish. 134 cases; 14.3%; $49 (Walla Walla Valley) 92/100

Ducleaux 2020 Stella of the Stones Syrah – A light (for the AVA) style, this barely hints at the funk for which the AVA is known. That’s not necessarily a knock; as a standalone Syrah it’s varietally true and well-balanced, with a nice mix of brambly berries, cut tobacco and coffee ground accents. 117 cases; 13.7%; $49 (The Rocks District) 90/100

Fairsing Vineyard

NOTE:  These 2019s are current releases. Across the board I found them consistently superior to the previous vintage.

Fairsing 2019 Fairsing Vineyard Pinot Noir – Tart and tangy, purple fruited and lively despite its late release, this was made under the supervision of Robert Brittan. It reflects his style at his own winery – sleek, tightly coiled, firmly tannic with hidden depths. The packed fruits need plenty of aeration to fully open. Aging in 20% new oak adds a touch of mocha to the trailing finish. 620 cases; 13.1%; $46 (Yamhill-Carlton) 91/100

Fairsing 2019 Sullivan Pinot Noir – The Sullivan is a different clonal mix from the other estate wines, and gets a little more new oak exposure. Robert Brittan is the consulting winemaker. This pushes blackberry and marionberry fruit, tart and tangy, front and center. When first opened the acids dominate. Although released almost three years after bottling, this tastes like a very young, compact wine with dense flavors that will need still more time in bottle or decanting if you drink now. 253 cases; 13%; $65 (Yamhill-Carlton) 92/100

Fairsing 2019 Dardis Pinot Noir – The Dardis bottling is a mix of Dijon 115 and Pommard; the Pommard gives it a forward, palate-pleasing fruity character. Consulting winemaker Robert Brittan’s style is evident, adding layers of texture, anise, tobacco, espresso and slate as the wine airs out and flavors unpack. What differentiates the various cuvées from Fairsing is the mix of clones and choice of barrels. (Note:  the first was bottle corked.) 299 cases; 13.3%; $65 (Yamhill-Carlton) 92/100

Long Walk Vineyard

I profiled Long Walk and reviewed a number of their wines on Substack a few weeks ago. A couple have since sold out. Here are notes on the new vintage.

Long Walk Vineyard 2021 Grenache – This is 100% varietal, slightly earthy, even rustic, in the best possible way. It’s brambly and loaded with berry fruits; tangy but not too acidic, full bodied yet a bit restrained. Savory notes carry the fruit on through the finish, with slightly peppery tannins. A flavorful but lighter follow up to the excellent 2020. 70 cases; 13.9%; $35 (Rogue Valley) 90/100

Long Walk Vineyard 2021 Mourvèdre – It’s a pleasure to experience a varietal 100% Mourvèdre from an Oregon vineyard with a fine track record for Rhône grapes. I’m impressed with the purity of this wine – no frills, just solid winemaking showcasing immaculate fruit. Though the winery says 25% of the barrels were new you could’ve fooled me as the fruit and minerality of the grape shows so clearly, with only the faintest hint of barrel influence. This wine surprised the heck out of me by continuing to evolve and improve over several days. I would strongly urge you to aggressively decant it if planning to drink it any time soon. 70 cases; 12.8%; $38 (Rogue Valley) 90/100

Sidereus Vineyard & Winery

With an extensive winemaking background in Napa, Sonoma and Oregon, Jason ‘Jay’ Bull is the right person to guide this winery, formerly A Blooming Hill, into a new chapter. These wines are beautifully made, and priced well below many of their peers. The whole portfolio is impressive, and the Winemaker’s Cuvée should absolutely not be missed.

Sidereus 2022 Reserve Roussanne – I was quite fond of the winery’s regular 2022 Roussanne, which I thought tasted like an extra-rich Pinot Gris, with ripe, round flavors of Bosch pear cut with orange acidity. This reserve is cut from the same cloth, and combines those flavors with a generous slice of papaya, along with the traditional squeeze of lime. The two wines are priced just $5 apart, and offer equal pleasure. 48 cases; 13.6%; $40 (Columbia Valley) 92/100

Sidereus 2021 Estate Pommard Pinot Noir – This block selection puts the spotlight on Pommard, the most fruit-forward, palate-friendly Pinot clone. Though aged in half new French oak for 19 months it is not over-weighted to barrel flavors, though there is a lush toasty frame around the blackberry fruit. Single clone wines often trade complexity for focus, as is the case here. Drink this now through the rest of the decade. 80 cases; 13.7%; $40 (Laurelwood District) 92/100

Sidereus 2021 Pinot Noir – Finding really good Willamette Valley Pinots in the vicinity of $30 are like turning up old Roman coins with your metal detector. Given demand and high costs of production, they seem to be a vanishing breed. This is one to grab – classically varietal, full-bodied and loaded with pretty fruits. Lightly spicy, soft and accessible, it’s got polished tannins and a generous finish that leaves a trail of sandalwood, milk chocolate and cinnamon. 316 cases; 13.5%; $32 (Willamette Valley) 93/100

Sidereus 2021 La Colina Vineyard Pinot Noir – Young, tight and spicy, this single vineyard selection will need more time in bottle to pull itself together. There’s a solid core of black cherry fruit, accented with barrel toast and baking spices from aging 20 months in half new French oak. This is a big, tannic, rather oaky wine that can tackle your heartiest winter stews. 98 cases; 13.5%; $50 (Dundee Hills) 93/100

Sidereus 2021 Estate Winemaker’s Cuvée Pinot Noir – A reserve-level blend of estate-grown clones and a mix of cooperages, this screams ‘high end’ from the first sip. Not just the well-heeled barrel toast and baking spices, but principally the impact of the clean, ripe, balanced fruit. Marionberries, blackberries, blueberries – all kinds of berries! – dusted with cocoa and a hint of cinnamon spice. Instantly compelling, this clearly has a decade and more of prime drinking ahead. 149 cases; 13.7%; $60 (Laurelwood District) 95/100

Sidereus 2021 Cabernet Sauvignon – This is Bacchus vineyard fruit, dark and peppery through the finish. Cassis and black cherry fruit anchors the core. One third of the barrels were new, and have imprinted the fruit with a dark, toasty streak of espresso. It finishes tannic, astringent and slightly bitter, like a good espresso, but will smooth out beautifully with ample aeration. 102 cases; 14.5%; $55 (Columbia Valley) 92/100

Soos Creek Wine Cellars

David Larsen, as I’ve written many times, has access to some of the oldest vines from many of the greatest vineyards in Washington. The new releases include a pair of sensational values (even by Soos Creek standards) in the King Cab and Stampede Pass Red. Dave notes that these are among the last wines he will make with fruit from Elephant Mountain, Klipsun, Ciel du Cheval and Champoux. Sorry as I am to see them go, I have every confidence that the next wines will be just as solid, and showcase some new and worthy sites.

Soos Creek 2021 King Cab Cabernet Sauvignon – Soos Creek’s Dave Larsen sources Cabernet from some of Washington’s A+ vineyards, and here he’s given a gift to wine lovers with a single vineyard HHH Cab at a supermarket price. The blend includes 15% Merlot, which helps to soften the tannins. There’s an interesting sweetness here – not from fruit or sugar, but more like the sweetness of fine tobacco. This is classic Washington Cabernet, with black fruits, sandalwood, toasted walnuts and tannins with a firm streak of espresso. 14.1%; $20 (Horse Heaven Hills) 91/100

Soos Creek 2020 Stampede Pass Red – I continue to be amazed at the quality wines that Dave Larsen puts together at budget prices. Here is a Bordeaux blend sourced from Ciel du Cheval, Champoux and Elephant Mountain vineyards, fermented in native yeast and aged in 15% new French oak. It’s principally Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, with a splash of Cabernet Franc. Firm, tight, dark and tannic, yet beautifully balanced for aging, this could be your go-to Bordeaux blend for aging over the next decade. Cassis and black cherry fruits, a streak of coffee, a hint of licorice… wow, this over-delivers past any reasonable expectation. 14.1%; $30 (Columbia Valley) 92/100

Soos Creek 2020 Elephant Mountain Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon – This wine from a 1998 planting is the last we’ll see from Elephant Mountain, as Larsen says he is transitioning to vineyards from the Horse Heaven Hills and Walla Walla Valley AVAs. So enjoy this excellent example from the Rattlesnake Hills. Firm, tight and tannic, its dark fruits are streaked with copper and coffee. The wine continued to improve over a full three days. 14.1%; $35 (Rattlesnake Hills) 93/100

Soos Creek 2020 Red Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon – Principally sourced from Ranch at the End of the Road vineyard, with a barrel from Ciel du Cheval, this is the last Soos Creek vintage from any Red Mountain grapes. Dense, compact and deeply saturated with flavors of cassis, black fruits, anise and espresso, this just needs time and/or decanting to unpack all it holds. I suspect it will age into a truly gorgeous old wine, but that may take a decade or more. Were it aged in new oak, rather than used, it would rock the world. 14.1%; $35 (Red Mountain) 93/100

Soos Creek 2020 Champoux Vineyard Block 4 Cabernet Sauvignon – This old vine block is now controlled by another winery, so this will be the next to last vintage of Champoux from Soos Creek. It gets the all-star treatment: native yeast. 50% new French oak barrels. Note that some of Washington’s most prestigious wineries get this fruit, and get a whole lot more for the wine. Here the balance is spot on, the flavors firm and dense. Black fruits, a dusting of toast, coffee grounds, polished, grainy tannins – it’s all here in this young wine that needs more bottle age to show its best. 14.1%; $50 (Horse Heaven Hills) 94/100

Walnut Ridge Vineyard

Andrew Smith writes that “there has been a large shift in winemaking at Walnut Ridge since the 2022 vintage. The white winemaking is now overseen by Drew Voit & Jessica West, while the red wines are under my care.”

As I had no previous experience with this producer I cannot comment on whether or not the shift is having a major impact, but I suspect that it is. These new wines are being released exceptionally young (and should benefit from more bottle age). Perhaps there were problems with earlier vintages; no way to know. But these young wines from the new winemakers are setting a course for a bright future. I’m especially excited about the Sauvignon Blanc.

Walnut Ridge 2022 Riesling – A big old bowl of just-pressed apples, buoyed with acids as fresh and clean as mountain spring water. Whole cluster pressed, stainless steel ferment, dry but not astringent. An instant autumn classic. 80 cases; 12.3%; $32 (Willamette Valley) 92/100

Walnut Ridge 2022 Sauvignon Blanc – A tart, snappy style, juicy and acidic, with just a hint of herbaceousness. In other words, textbook Sauv Blanc, comparable to one of the best from a cool climate site in California. Absolutely refreshing, with melon, pineapple, lemon/lime, green apple and more. Zesty and electric on the palate, this is from vines a quarter century old – quite rare for this variety in Oregon. 100 cases; 13.5%; $28 (Willamette Valley) 92/100

Walnut Ridge 2022 Pinot Gris – All stainless fermentation and aging enhances the refreshing minerality of this well-balanced wine. In just the past decade Willamette Valley Pinot Gris has gone from being almost a throwaway white wine also-ran to take its proper place as a classic stand-alone varietal wine. Melon, grapefruit and lemon zest are in play, with proportionate acids and a clean, lingering, still yeasty finish. 131 cases; 13.5%; $28 (Willamette Valley) 91/100

Walnut Ridge 2022 Gamay Noir Rosé – This fruit-forward rosé strikes a perfect chord that resonates with clean stone and berry fruits, backed with Meyer lemony acids. The flavors continue full and pure into a lingering finish that adds a touch of baking spice as it gently fades away. There’s a touch of residual sugar that rounds it out nicely. 127 cases; 12.9%; $25 (Willamette Valley) 91/100

Walnut Ridge 2022 Gamay Noir – This is a sharp, tart, assertive Gamay, 40% whole cluster and left on the skins for a month. Aged in used oak, it’s proportionate and firm, with fresh, tart cranberry fruit anchoring the palate. Andrew Smith was the winemaker, working with grapes now a quarter century old. While quite drinkable already, this should be even better over the next few years. 50 cases; 12.8%; $30 (Willamette Valley) 91/100

Walnut Ridge 2021 La Petite Fête – This friendly blend is principally Pinot Noir with Gamay Noir filling out the last 20%. One could only wish that it could be made in much larger case quantities, as it delivers easy-drinking yet sophisticated flavor in a blend that is almost unknown in the Willamette Valley, and at an affordable price. Brambly berries, blood orange and a dusting of brown sugar are my first impressions. Not a big bruiser by any means, it’s a lovely, detailed and most enjoyable alt-red. 220 cases; 13.5%; $25 (Willamette Valley) 91/100

Walnut Ridge 2022 La Petite Fête – In this new vintage the blend is 85% Pinot Noir and 15% Gamay Noir. It shows more weight though the listed alcohol is a bit lower than the 2021. A nice, grippy mix of ripe strawberries and pie cherries, along with a seam of savory herbs. The tannins are substantial, ripe and firm, and the wine has enough power through the finish to work with lighter meat dishes such as flank steak. 13.2%; $25 (Willamette Valley) 91/100

Walnut Ridge 2022 Estate Pinot Noir – Elegant, light on its feet, and replete with tart cranberry and raspberry fruit, this is sourced from estate vines between 15 and 27 years of age. The structure and framework of acid and tannin suggest that this very young wine will drink at its best from 2025 to 2035. 190 cases; 13.5%; $40 (Willamette Valley) 92/100

Walnut Ridge 2022 Vielles Vines Pinot Noir – The listed vine age is 27 years which barely qualifies as old. But the term is unregulated and can be used any way the winery wishes (I suppose Middle-aged Vines doesn’t have the same charisma). This is a medium-bodied, well-balanced wine with brambly berry fruit, a fine-textured palate, and hints of peat and mineral. Though at first deceptively light, it packs a lot of flavor, with good length and detail through an elegant finish. 50 cases; 13.5%; $50 (Willamette Valley) 91/100

Walnut Ridge 2022 Belle Amie Pinot Noir – Pretty cherry fruit runs the show here, with some stiff tannins in the background. Young, fresh, tangy and vibrant, this qualifies as gulpable although more bottle age is recommended. Aging 10 months in 40% new French oak adds a nice toasty frame. 100 cases; 13.7%; $60 (Willamette Valley) 91/100

Walnut Ridge 2022 Mystère Pinot Noir – The name references a mysterious clone that may have come from Spain in the mid-20^th century. Good story, nice wine. This offers solid red and blue fruit flavors, a dash of baking spices, a hint of pepper and a leesy, textural mouthfeel. Young and fruit-driven at the moment, with tannins that taste like breakfast tea. It will want a couple more years of bottle age to really unpack all the details. 50 cases; 14.2%; $50 (Willamette Valley) 92/100

Walnut Ridge 2022 Emma Pinot Noir – The Emma is the top offering from Walnut ridge, blending four clones from a high elevation, west-facing part of the estate vineyard. It’s a wine with great potential, benefitting from 40% new French oak that puts a lush, toasty frame around the ripe berry/cherry fruit. I’d tuck this one away in the cellar for another five years, but drink a bottle or two now for the immediate vitality and freshness. 100 cases; 14.5%; $70 (Willamette Valley) 92/100

Note – Our NW weather has moderated again, so a good shipping window is back open. Wineries – please check with me before sending new releases so we can coordinate timing to minimize any weather issues.

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