Drinking History In A Bottle And Celebrating Kiona’s Half Century On Red Mountain

Bonus: First Day of Summer’s Rosé Roundup!

A major milestone in the history of the Washington wine industry is coming up just around the corner. 2025 will be the 50th anniversary of the first vines going into the ground on Red Mountain. Little did partners John Williams and Jim Holmes know – nor could they imagine – that their efforts to stick some vines into such unpromising ground would ultimately turn out to be great Cabernet Sauvignon terroir. But it has.

Never mind planting in a place with no roads, no water, no infrastructure and absolutely no wine growing history. But they planted Cabernet Sauvignon of all things. This at a time when it was widely believed that if anything could grow so far north as eastern Washington it would have to be Riesling.

Imagine my joy when JJ Williams – the grandson of John, and the third generation of his family to tend these vines – sent a bottle of Old Block Cabernet from the original, ungrafted vines. His official title is General Manager for Kiona Vineyards and Winery, but his reach extends across the entire operation. That wine and several other important new releases from Kiona are profiled below, but first some perspective on Red Mountain as it has developed over the decades, from the man who literally grew up on the mountain – JJ Williams.

Kiona was founded as a winery about a decade after those first vines went into the ground. Managed by John, then his son Scott, now Scott’s son JJ and their families, the Williams’ have kept full control of the entire operation during its first 50 years. They have maintained a focus on the original vision – Bordeaux grapes and blends, consistently added more vineyards and built a visitor-friendly tasting room with panoramic views, all on Red Mountain. An excellent guide and map to each of the five vineyards can be found here.

While preparing this essay with JJ he mentioned what he refers to as the “Upper/Lower Red Mountain dichotomy” – an intriguing analysis of the AVA based upon years of exploration and growth. (Plantings now extend over the top and on to the north side, past the official AVA boundaries, as I reported in my May 16th Substack entry on WeatherEye).

“You can draw a topographical line more or less bisecting the AVA, with sites above landing with more blue fruit and a more pronounced tannin structure (new world) and sites below the line generally showing more red fruit, pyrazine, and a more elegant structure (old world)” JJ explains.

JJ recalls that the first time he latched onto this idea was during a conversation with Master of Wine Bob Betz about a decade ago. Bob mentioned that he thought the Red Mountain AVA could actually be broken into two separate and distinct sub-AVAs.

JJ: “When you’re in the business of selling high-end fruit to high-end, discerning customers (in this case, winemakers willing/able to pay the Red Mountain premium)” says JJ, “the discussion shifts from ‘our fruit is good, you should buy it’ to ‘let’s find a way to match you to a specific block/profile that meets your needs.’ Curation and intentionality become paramount when you’re competing on quality, which is what Red Mountain’s reputation is built upon. We farm 15 different blocks of Cabernet at five different vineyards and we’re constantly tasting/blending/evaluating the wines made from each and every one. You tend to develop some ideas on similarities and profiles.”

PG:  Given that you have some of the oldest vines on the Mountain, how does that impact this theory?

JJ:  “Correlation doesn’t necessarily mean causation, however, and I am more than willing to accept the idea that the vineyards below our ‘line’ taste different because they are older. The youngest Cabernet Sauvignon plantings at Kiona Estate and Artz date back to 1995/1997, and the oldest back to 1975. They are also largely fan-trained, which certainly is a novelty in 2024. The only Cabernet planted at Artz and Kiona on a bi-lateral cordon is Kiona North Block (Block 2 on the map). 

“That being said, I would posit that there are many wines that support my hypothesis. The Upchurch wines all have an incredible abundance of red fruit and elegance, and Ciel du Cheval wines all have that lovely, velvety, elegant profile that they’re deservedly famous for. On the flip side, the wines that I taste that really drive home that blue fruited Red Mountain muscle come from Heart of the Hill, Quintessence, Shaw, Longwinds and others.”

PG::  Does the renowned Red Mountain wind exposure, that toughens skins and builds bigger tannins, play a role here?

JJ:  “Adhering to the idea that the simplest explanation is probably the best, I think wind exposure plays a key part in what we are seeing. All of the vineyards above our line feature a southwest slope/exposure, resulting in reduced berry size. You can stand in the Kiona Estate vineyard and not see the western horizon - that is not true any place at Heart of the hill, Ranch, or Sunset Bench.”

PG:  Finally, I was gobsmacked by your Old Block Cabernet Sauvignon. Here’s an example where I insist that knowing in advance what is being tasted has a major impact (positive impact) on my impressions. Toss that bottle into a massive blind wine tasting competition and it could easily get overlooked. Its real strengths are its subtlety and elegance. Your thoughts?

JJ:  “Almost every vine planted in our pioneering 1975 block is still alive and kicking today. The plants are remarkably resilient, having made it this far. All of them are fan-trained, and all of them have leaf roll – a reality of old vines - the cuttings were not certified in those days. The leaf roll puts a downward pressure on the amount of fruit that we can ripen fully - as long as you can charge enough for the fruit (and wines made with said fruit), there’s no reason to rip them out. In this case, nobody else has the oldest vines on Red Mountain, and the wines the block produces are of noteworthy quality so as to justify the high price brought on by diminished yields.”

PG:  For much more background and a walk through Washington wine history click on the Kiona link.

Kiona

Kiona 2019 Cabernet Sauvignon – In the enviable position of having five estate vineyards on Red Mountain, Kiona’s regular Cabernet is a pure expression of the AVA, using grapes from all five sites and blending in small amounts of Cab Franc, Merlot and Petit Verdot for extra complexity. Aromatic, balanced and seductive, this exceptional wine saw almost half new oak, yet it seems restrained at the moment. Mixed purple fruits, a savory seam and polished, ripe tannins are featured, and the wine does reward aggressive aeration with a broadened palate. 4489 cases; 14.9%; $36 (Red Mountain) 93/100

Kiona NV Fortuna III Red – The winery calls this a Red Mountain interpretation of a South American style. It’s a blend of roughly equal percentages of Carmenère, Malbec and Cabernet Sauvignon with nicely ripened black fruits, all estate grown and sourced from multiple vintages, This is a toasty, textured, dark-fruited wine with dense, ripe, polished, grainy tannins. Showing great depth and length, its Argentine echoes make it powerful, packed and steak-ready. 14.7%; $45 (Red Mountain) 94/100

Kiona 2021 Red Mountain Reserve – A blend of two thirds Cabernet Sauvignon, 26% Merlot and 8% Cab Franc, this principally pulls grapes from the estate’s ‘Ranch at the End of the Road’ and ‘Heart of the Hill’ vineyards. It’s supple and balanced, with the sort of dusty tannins often noted in the wines of Napa’s Rutherford Bench. The word classic comes to mind – not just for the Bordeaux blend but also for the Red Mountain style – firm, polished, powerful, dense and packed with black fruits and notes of black olive, coffee grounds, cocoa powder and cut tobacco. This was a hot vintage, yet the winemaking team at Kiona has kept this in a tight corridor of optimal ripeness, and following aging 22 months in three fifths new French oak there are no jagged edges. Should evolve beautifully over the next 20+ years. 304 cases; 14.5%; $65 (Red Mountain) 95/100

(The actual label does not have the wine stain but don’t you think it looks great there!)

Kiona 2021 Old Block Cabernet Sauvignon – Astonishing 100% Cab from the original vines planted on Red Mountain in 1975. The word pioneering doesn’t begin to capture the difficult work that John Williams and Jim Holmes did when first planting this site. There were no roads, no water, no wells, no infrastructure of any kind. And yet a half century later we have the privilege of drinking this wine. Dense, detailed, dusty and dark, this captures the essence of Red Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon which in many respects has become the iconic style of wine for the entire state. A wine to sit with and ponder, it’s built with layers of black fruits, black coffee, tobacco, toast and baker’s chocolate. I’d imagine someone will sit down with this bottle in another half century and look back a hundred years on this iconic vineyard. 229 cases; 15%; $85 (Red Mountain) 96/100

Purchase these wines and more here.

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Today (June 20th) is the first day of summer, aka the solstice, when the sun is at its highest point in the sky for the year. Here in the Pacific Northwest that means almost 16 hours of sunlight! Amazingly, this is the earliest that the solstice has occurred since George Washington was president in 1796 – 228 years ago. To honor the occasion, here is my Rosé Roundup.

My friend and fellow scribe Dave McIntyre, who writes a wine column for the Washington Post, often has a humorous take on some of the readers’ mail he gets. About a week ago he wrote a column on rosé wines. Five minutes after it was published he got this note from a reader (who mercifully shall remain incognito):  “Sorry – imagine diluting a Cabernet with 50% water. Shake and drink. That’s rosé. No thanks.”

Now there are legitimate reasons to be confused about rosés. There is no legal definition for the term. They can be made from virtually any grape or grapes. They sometimes bump into the world of orange wines. They can be white wines blended with a splash of red. They can be dry, off-dry or sweet. But as far as I’m aware no winery in the world is taking red wine and cutting it by 50% with water to make a rosé!

In my Substack post last April 18th I went into considerably more detail about rosés and my personal preferences. A lot of new releases have come in since that post went live so here is an update with some terrific wines just aching to be part of a picnic or barbecue on a hot summer day.

Rosé recommendations from recent tastings:

Amos Rome 2023 Estate Cabernet Franc Rosé – This winery’s stellar lineup of white and rosé wines puts a new focus on the potential of this AVA. The only other rosé from this grape that I consider an equal comes from Quady North in the Rogue Valley, which makes them geographic bookends. Beautifully balanced, loaded with mixed citrus and peppery spice, this avoids the heavy-handed tannins that can happen with Cab Franc rosés, while allowing them to frame the fruit through a long finish. Grapefruit flesh and rind stands out, along with green melon. 210 cases; 12.3%; $25 (Lake Chelan) 92/100

Barking Dog 2021 Rosé Pinot Noir – This new winery holds its rosés back an extra year; this is the June ’23 release after aging in neutral French oak. There’s a pleasing toastiness around the tart citrus and apple fruit, and the mid-palate has extra dimension, almost like an orange wine, with a long trailing finish that brings nuanced highlights of cured meats. All estate-grown from the inaugural vintage, this is definitely a creative approach and has produced an exceptional wine that is drinking beautifully at the moment. 199 cases; 14%; $24 (Chehalem Mountains) 93/100

Barking Dog 2022 Rosé Pinot Noir – Tasted alongside the 2021 this has more freshness but less depth. There’s a piercing note of caraway seed underpinning the tangy citrus, apple and white cherry fruit. Note that the abv is a bit higher than the ‘21, but the vineyard source and block selections are the same. 293 cases; 14.5%; $26 (Chehalem Mountains) 92/100

Big Table Farm 2023 Laughing Pig Pinot Noir Rosé – Big Table Farm makes this rosé by placing pressed fruit on top of unpressed, soaking and fermenting, then pressing it all and finishing the ferment in neutral barrels. It’s somewhere between rosé and an orange wine, and pays off with lovely details of flower and herb, along with the ability to age well for at least another couple of years. This is finished dry, and offers flavors of rhubarb, wild strawberries, chamomile tea, pressed flowers and clove-spiked orange peel. 490 cases; 14.3%; $36 (Willamette Valley) 93/100

Canvasback 2023 Rosé of Syrah – This is full, even fleshy for a rosé, with a nice spicy core. It’s got nicely layered flavors of dried rose petals, blood orange, pie cherries and even a hint of orange liqueur. Great balance and plenty of juicy acidity make this is an all-around winner. 12.5%; $34 (Walla Walla Valley) 92/100

Compton 2023 Garden Series Rosé of Pinot Noir – A pretty pale copper hue, this is aromatically piercing, tart and refreshing. Citrus fruits are here in abundance – a lush mix of lemon, lime, grapefruit and a touch of pineapple. With aeration it broadens out, touching on red berry fruits. An elegant style but classic for rosés from Pinot Noir. 165 cases; 12.8%; $20 (Willamette Valley) 92/100

DanCin 2023 En L’air Rosé of Pinot Noir – Pure Pommard clone and fermented in stainless steel, this elegant rosé is packaged in light weight glass and corked with no capsule as part of a winery-wide effort to reduce waste and lower the carbon footprint. It’s light and lovely, dusted with cinnamon spice around ripe apple fruit. 175 cases; 12.9%; $35  (Rogue Valley) 91/100

Denison 2023 Johnson Ridge Vineyard Rosé of Pinot Noir – This is a deeply colored rosé, the result of extended skin contact. By dark I mean it’s touching the border of a full on Pinot Noir that was lightly ripened. So set apart your notions of most Pinot Noir rosés, this is darker, richer and fruitier. I find it to be a compelling style by whatever name, fruit-forward with juicy cherry cobbler flavors. Drink this young, maybe with a slight chill, and if you can pair it with a cherry chicken sort of recipe – or cherry pork – or maybe something with a chocolatey Mexican molé. 110 cases; 13.9%; $26 (Eola-Amity Hills) 92/100

NOTE:  More Denison reviews are posted past the paywall

Devison 2023 Boushey Vineyard ‘East of the Sun’ Rosé – Two thirds Mourvèdre and one third Grenache, sourced from a great vineyard, this touches some bases that might recall a Provençal rosé. It falls in the savory camp, but fills out the fruit with elegant touches of green melon and grapefruit. Long, lingering, fresh and compelling, this is a wine that rewards attentive sipping, but it’s good enough to just gulp down on a hot summer day. 180 cases; 13%; $30 (Yakima Valley) 92/100

NOTE:  More Devison reviews are posted past the paywall

Domaine Divio 2023 Pinot Noir Rosé – At first light and lightly floral, this elegant rosé evolves into a wine of surprising depth and detail. Hyacinth, raspberries and a dusting of coffee grounds add up to a lingering palate with lovely highlights. This hits the bullseye with low alcohol and high flavor interest beyond the usual rosé fruit. 12.8%; $32 (Willamette Valley) 93/100

Quady North 2023 Cabernet Franc Rosé – This rosé lineup is always compelling, refreshing and neatly defined. Here are rich flavors of ripe apple, spicy melon, fresh strawberries and a light, finishing touch of barn straw. Lots going on here! Full-bodied through the middle, lightly funky in the finish, brilliantly deep and flavorful as it tails out, this has the guts and power (never mind the low abv) to work with grilled pork or poultry on a hot summer day. 12.4%; $22 (Rogue Valley) 92/100

Quady North 2023 Dry Rosé of Grenache – This wine is a juicy kiss on a hot summer day. Look at the alcohol! And yet it’s bone dry, full-bodied and flavorful with a beguiling blend of flowers, herbal tea, wild strawberries and touches of tangerine and cantaloup melon. A riot of flavor that lingers on and on, and invites multiple picnic foods from apps to entrées. 11.4%; $22 (Applegate Valley) 93/100

Quady North 2023 GSM Rosé – A stunning value, this blend of 55% Grenache, 34% Syrah and 11% Mourvèdre simply rocks. It’s packed with flavor, deep and detailed, with a mix of apple pie, lemon rind and melon flavors. It’s juicy and fresh, and the more you dive into it the more you taste. If you only try one of the Quady North lineup of rosés, start here. 12%; $18 (Rogue Valley) 94/100

Saviah 2023 The Jack Rosé – Bright, mineral-drenched and tart flavors make this a great go-to, chillable rosé. It’s a GSM mix, with Grenache the main contributor. All stainless fermentation and aging keep it racy and push the savory highlights up front and center. If you like a totally dry rosé with a touch of bitter herbs this is your bottle, and given the rising prices for this category across the board this is a flat out bargain. 477 cases; 13.1%; $15 (Columbia Valley) 91/100

Saviah 2023 Rosé – From Walla Walla’s Dugger vineyard this is a 60/40 mix of Sangiovese and Barbera. It’s zesty, crisp and detailed, with a lovely mineral foundation. Very light red berry fruits are in play – strawberries and raspberries – and the finish is framed with light but firm tannins. It’s got surprising length; the longer you wait the more flavors pile on, including a finishing lick of white chocolate. 220 cases; 13.3%; $25 (Walla Walla Valley) 92/100

Sidereus 2023 Estate Rosé of Pinot Noir – Pale as a copper ghost, yet full of complex flavor, this palate-pleasing rosé deftly mixes floral, citrus and berry highlights in a racy, textural, surprisingly full-bodied wine. I can’t imagine a better bottle with fried chicken, grilled oysters or calamari. Chill it a bit and let it transport you to some far away beachfront café serving any of the above. 300 cases; 13.2%; $25 (Laurelwood District) 93/100

NOTE:  More Sidereus reviews are posted past the paywall

Events & Tastings Coming Up

Celebrate Walla Walla Valley Wine

July 11 - 13

This three day event, celebrating the 40th anniversary of the certification of the Walla Walla Valley AVA, is focused on Cabernet Sauvignon this year. There are tastings of multiple vintages from winery libraries, collaborative winemaker seminars and dinners, and opportunities to compare and share the wines of the Walla Walla Valley with those from around the world.

Chardy Party

July 25th 6 to 9pm

Four great wineries – Hazelfern, big table farm, Hundred Suns, and Walter Scott – will be pouring their marvelous Chardonnays (I’ve already raved about the latest from big table farm and Walter Scott). Plus:  chefs Sarah Schafer and Brett Uniss from Humble Spirit + the Ground will be shucking oysters and frying up buckets of chicken. The venue is the Hazelfern Barn - just up the road from The Allison Inn & Spa. Parking on-site is limited, as are tickets, so get ‘em while you can.