Does Washington State Wine Have An Identity Problem?

Recent online chatter bemoans Washington Wine's lack of a signature variety

With the startling announcement that Washington's biggest producer was cutting grape purchases by half, the pundits weighed in with various theories about why things have reached such dire straits. One prevalent theory is that unlike Oregon (known around the world for great Pinot Noir) and Napa (known across the universe for remarkable Cabernet Sauvignon), Washington wines have always lacked a clear and focused signature variety. In other words, for wine buyers, there's no easy handle on Washington wine.

This is not a new challenge. In the first chapter of the first edition of my "Washington Wines & Wineries" (published in 2007) I explored the post-Prohibition history of the industry and concluded with these thoughts:  "As Washington stakes its claim to be recognized with other world-class wine regions, accolades and criticism from the press are coming in roughly equal proportion. This is to be expected and, on balance, is quite healthy. The challenges that face the state’s vintners are in many respects exactly the same as those that face any emerging wine region, whether in Chile, South Africa, New Zealand, the Canadian Okanagan, or, for that matter, the south of France.

"Winning the hometown fans is just the beginning. Washington must consistently define and explain itself to the rest of the world. Given that the state has no single 'signature' wine or grape, it must consistently demonstrate quality and value across the board. It must take better advantage of the natural beauty and unjaded populace that make visiting wine country in this state such a pleasure. It must overcome the archaic, confusing, and expensive tangle of laws that regulate the distribution and sale of wine here and in every other state in the country. To put it bluntly, it must live up to its shiny new motto [at the time]: 'The Perfect Climate for Wine'.”

In retrospect that 'Perfect Climate' slogan still makes a lot more sense than the current WAugust campaign which seems designed to do nothing more than encourage wineries to discount their products for a month. As far as the rest of my suggestions have progressed, most show improvement. Wine tourism has grown significantly, particularly in high profile destinations such as Woodinville and Walla Walla. The state is no longer managing a clogged pipeline for wine distribution, and there are reasonably liberal laws allowing wineries and some retailers to ship directly to consumers both in-state and out-of-state (where permitted). The climate may or may not be perfect, but it's certainly good, sometimes great, and the vast improvements in vineyard management among other things have gone a long way towards compensating (so far) for climate change.

What has not changed? There is still no signature grape providing a clear distinction (definition?) for Washington wines; a handle that consumers and trade who are not located in the Pacific Northwest want and need.

That said, the disadvantages of being tied to a single variety are also significant. For quite awhile being known exclusively for its Pinot Noir meant that Oregon wineries that did not produce Pinot Noir were at a serious disadvantage. Some truly outstanding Cabernet Franc, Grenache, Syrah and Viognier is made in the Rogue Valley. Abacela in the Umpqua Valley pioneered Tempranillo on the West Coast. But as often as note their customers asked for Pinot Noir.

Back in Washington; at various times efforts spearheaded by Allen Shoup at Ch. Ste. Michelle tried to make Riesling a signature grape. Merlot was another attempt. Cabernet Sauvignon would seem logical, but Napa has already locked that down. Syrah? As a varietal wine Syrah sales have been in a serious slump, and there just isn't all that much made in Washington. Chardonnay? You're towing the ABC crowd up a steep hill.

On vacation this week I visited a couple of wine shops on Martha's Vineyard and looked to see what they carried from Washington. Almost nothing. One shop had a Charles & Charles Cabernet, and the proprietor said that the sales person for that wine had "plastered the walls with stickers."

The second shop had a better selection of everything, from inexpensive table wines all the way up to a $1000 Bouchard Montrachet. Nothing from Washington.

What they did have to my surprise was a Brittan Chardonnay, a white and a rosé Big Salt from Ovum and a pair of orange wines from Brianne Day. Under the radar, high quality Oregon wines that are not Pinot Noir, and not from big volume producers. Which suggests that Oregon is succeeding in getting a non-Pinot foothold once Pinot has opened the door. Other than Charles & Charles, who is opening doors for Washington? What grape or blends might separate Washington from the pack of wannabe's outside of the home turf?

Washington vintners make great blends. Bordeaux style blends in particular are exceptional. Though I'm generally opposed to using an old world template for a new world wine producer, there may be some traction promoting Washington as perfectly positioned to make New World Bordeaux blends. Or blends in general. How about ‘Washington Wine – Trending with Blending!’

In my last post I promised to post the final reviews of DeLille's red wines. Many of these champion great blends.

DeLille 2021 Le Dessein Red – The 2021 blend is 43% Mourvèdre, 39% Grenache and 18% Syrah from the Boushey, Stone Tree and Ciel du Cheval vineyards. It's a truly luscious bottle of wine, with robust, brambly berry fruits, citrus highlights and plenty of barrel toast. The flavors resonate across and down the palate, lingering with a playful burst of toasted cracker. 1400 cases; 14.9%; $45 (Columbia Valley) 92/100

DeLille 2020 Le Colosse – Though simply labeled red wine, this is 100% Merlot from Boushey, DuBrul and Harrison Hill – three great Yakima Valley vineyards. Given a substantial time (20 months) in 70% new oak, it not only handles it but embraces it, even at this young age. This is serious, substantial wine that perfectly expresses the best of Washington state Merlots – firm, structured, balanced and ageworthy, with a core of cherry fruit and bold highlights of tobacco, black tea, espresso and graphite. My guess is its best drinking window will be in 5 - 10 years. 925 cases; 14.1%; $65 (Yakima Valley) 94/100

DeLille 2020 Minuit Red – An interesting Malbec/Cabernet Sauvignon blend from the Red Willow (Yakima Valley) and Quintessence (Red Mountain) vineyards. Brambly red fruits anchor a fleshy wine that opens broadly across the palate. Nuances of dried straw and herbs decorate the mid-palate, with a lingering, energetic finish. The savory herbs and spicy accents are a nice counterpoint providing lift. Three fifths of the barrels were new, and the flavors trail out with a touch of dried straw and caramel. 1400 cases; 14.2%; $60 (Yakima Valley) 94/100

DeLille 2020 D2 – This Bordeaux blend is 61% Merlot, 27% Cabernet Sauvignon, 8% Cab Franc and 4% Petit Verdot. The soft entry is layered, smooth and approachable, and conjures up candied lavender, milk chocolate cherries, and accents of nutmeg and cinnamon. Aged 18 months in 55% new French oak, its sources include a dozen top Red Mountain and Yakima Valley vineyards. It's intended to be enjoyable young, though certainly has the tannic grip and stuffing for a decade of aging. The website indicates it's sold out but notes that the 2021 will be released in September. 9800 cases; 14.4%; $55 (Columbia Valley) 93/100

DeLille 2020 Four Flags Cabernet Sauvignon – Named for the quartet of Red Mountain vineyards that supply the grapes – Grand Ciel, Upchurch, Ciel du Cheval and Klipsun – this 100% Cabernet Sauvignon offers concentrated flavors of black cherry, cassis, espresso, tobacco, baking chocolate, toasted walnuts and a hint of black olive. The tannins are ripe and lightly grainy, and the core is dense, dark and deep. Aged 20 months in 80% new French oak, this is a wine that should age quite well for another two decades. 1600 cases; 14.1%; $80 (Red Mountain) 95/100

DeLille 2020 Chaleur Estate Red – Historically this wine has been focused on Red Mountain fruit; here it's got a Yakima Valley AVA designation due to the inclusion of 24% DuBrul vineyard Merlot (replacing Klipsun, now owned by Terlato). The final blend is 63% Cabernet Sauvignon, 24% Merlot, 11% Cabernet Franc and a splash of Petit Verdot, all but the Merlot from old vine Ciel du Cheval fruit. This flagship wine deserves the accolade – it's firm, tannic, ripe, dense and beautifully balanced. In some past vintages the use of 100% new French oak overshot the mark; here it's already well integrated, providing a toasty, tannic frame without covering the dark fruits and savory highlights. A fine example of a Washington Bordeaux blend, this may be enjoyed now but can be cellared confidently for another two decades. 625 cases; 14.6%; $90 (Yakima Valley) 95/100

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