Does That Wine In Your Glass Taste Like Something, Anything Or Nothing?

Plus: New releases from Dineen, King Estate & White Walnut

I’ve been doing some self-analysis (conversing with chat g-PG) in regards to my wine scoring. I started numerical (100 point) scoring about 25 years ago, and over time it’s become almost automatic. I may spend an hour tasting a wine over several sessions, while writing and re-writing a tasting note. But the score just pops into my head and rarely requires more than a very slight adjustment if there is some change in the wine as it breathes. Sometimes I’ll go back after 24 or 48 hours to re-taste a wine and without looking at my score I’ll give it a score in my head, just to see if I’m consistent. And 99% of the time I am.

But why do those numbers appear, and what subterranean analysis is going on that informs the process? I’ve hit upon an idea that may provide at least part of the answer – wines that either taste like something, or taste like anything, or taste like nothing. I’ll explain.

Listening to a random mix of unknown songs on whatever streaming service you choose, I’ll bet you don’t need more than 10 or 15 seconds to decide if you like the song, if you like the singer, if you want to hear the rest of it, if it sounds exactly like so-and-so. Wandering through an art gallery looking at works from unfamiliar artists your mind is running through a similar pattern. Take a quick glance, is the subject matter compelling enough to look further? Does it remind me of some other work that I either like or dislike? Am I going to wait until the person blocking my view moves on so I can get a closer look, or do I just blow past, disinterested?

A glass of wine is no different, and it really doesn’t matter if you’re tasting it blind or not. Every new wine is new, even if it’s from a known producer, because everything about it is unknown. It’s not like the wine you had from the previous vintage. It may not be from the same vineyard, or fermented with the same yeast in the same sort of vessel. Picking conditions may have completely changed. So that first impression, whether from a known winery or one that’s brand new, is a deep dive into Lake Whatizzit. In this way it’s not just easy, it’s virtually inevitable that you’ll take a big step back from thinking about terroir, varietal character or details of the winemaking process, and dial in a quick impression of what’s in the glass.

Does it taste like something? In other words, whether it’s a pure varietal wine or some sort of blend, does it show an inner consistency and focus that pulls it together in a way that demands attention.

Does it taste like anything? Meaning you don’t know what it is, can’t say that it speaks to you in any particular language, but there is enough there to note that it’s well-made and worth a second look.

Or does it taste like nothing? There’s no there there. It’s neither good nor bad; it’s indifferent. Could be anything from anywhere.

In a rough way, I can guess that wines that taste like something are going to get at least 92 points and higher. Wines that taste like anything will squeak by with a 90 or 91. Wines that simply lack all character won’t get reviewed here. And they may be perfectly drinkable wines that you’ll see stacked by the case at the ends of the wine aisle in your favorite grocery.

So next time you have something new and untried in your glass, take a quick sip and ask yourself – do I taste Something? Anything? Or… nothing?

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Quick rant… isn’t it disingenuous to the point of dishonest for a winery to attach the name of a prominent reviewer to a review that was actually written by someone else? I see this frequently in marketing emails, on websites and in promotional materials that prominently display a high score supposedly from a well-known reviewer. Just because a review credits Robert Parker, it wasn’t Parker who wrote it (unless it’s from long ago). Currently there are maybe a half dozen highly influential wine blogs/newsletters/websites that are widely quoted. Almost all of them have staff covering big chunks of the material. But the name on the masthead is what attracts notice, not the recently-hired workaholic tasked with tasting 1000 or more wines for their “report” on the new vintage from Anywhere-istan.

It's time to clean it up. Credit the person who actually tasted the wine and wrote the review. Fine to say that they are working for whomever has their name glorifying the publication. That’s fair, accurate, respectful and most of all… honest.

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Mid-course adjustment… this Substack is and always will be laser-focused on the wines of the Pacific Northwest. That said, it is essential that these wines are vetted against comparable wines from other regions. For that reason I am inviting occasional submissions of wines from California, western Europe and Australia to use as comps. Just a bottle here and there will suffice. Interested? Write me at paulgwine@me.com

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The Week’s Reviews

Dineen Vineyards

Dineen 2024 Sémillon – Sémillon remains a bit of a rarity in Washington, but when done well, as it is here, one can’t help but think there should be more – much more. Unlike Sauvignon Blanc, which is getting a fair amount of buzz these days, Sémillon does not suffer from aggressively sharp, herbaceous flavors (pyrazines) that can be off-putting. Here it’s almost silky, a substantial, dry white wine with rich flavors of apple, pear, white peach and a touch of cucumber. This was fermented and aged in neutral French oak. Drink it soon to retain all the freshness of this recently-bottled wine. 117 cases; 13.1%; $27 (Yakima Valley) 91/100

Dineen 2024 Condriesque White Wine – A well-balanced, 50/50 blend of Viognier and Roussanne, this has been fermented and aged on the lees in French oak. It’s a supple, generous white wine, loaded with lemony tang. Lemon curd, apple pie, some Key lime in there and a touch of pineapple. All good, fresh, young and fruity. 166 cases; 13.3%; $27 (Yakima Valley) 91/100

Dineen 2022 Heritage Blend Red –This five grape Bordeaux blend, all estate fruit, was fermented in stainless and aged in barrel, though what percentage was new is unknown. It’s tightly wound, with herbal highlights all the way through. Tart wild blackberry fruit, a buttery caramel note, stiff tannins and a short, trailing finish. 181 cases; 14.4%; $47 (Yakima Valley) 90/100

Dineen 2022 Cabernet Sauvignon – All-estate Cabernet Sauvignon (with 3% Malbec blended in) aged 20 months in 20% new French oak. It’s been in bottle for over two years, and any youthful roughness is smoothed over. Still brambly, briary and herbal (in a good, varietally correct way), this medium-bodied red does not overreach. The fruit, acid, barrel and spice are well married, and it seems to pull itself together and gain focus through the finish. 165 cases; 14.4%; $47 (Yakima Valley) 91/100

Dineen 2022 Cabernet Franc – If there should be a signature grape for this winery and this elevated sub-AVA of the Yakima Valley it’s Cabernet Franc. As a pure varietal wine there are numerous examples from the Rattlesnake Hills AVA that prove the point. This 2022 is well-balanced and attractive, with proportionate red currant, tannin, earth and herbal components. It was fermented in stainless steel and aged in neutral barrels; though there’s a hint of barrel toast coming through as it trails away. 185 cases; 14.2%; $42 (Yakima Valley) 91/100

Dineen 2022 Syrah – Classically co-fermented with 3% Viognier, then aged in 20% new French oak, this well-balanced Syrah is clean and pure, with no rough edges. The fruit flavors bring berries and the barrels bring toasty chocolate. All good, all proportionate, medium bodied and fresh through the finish with accents of bacon fat, coffee and cream. 158 cases; 14.3%; $42 (Yakima Valley) 91/100

King Estate

King Estate 2023 Sauvignon Blanc – It’s astonishing that this winery can produce 5000 cases of Sauvignon Blanc, which must be a considerable percentage of the production of the entire state. Comprised from eight listed vineyards (plus 16% ‘other’) it’s a state-wide expression, therefore less specific and focused than the rare and highly desirable single vineyard selections. Nonetheless a solid expression of the grape, fruity rather than herbaceous, with none of the off-putting cat-pee flavors that turn most drinkers away. 5000 cases; 14.1%; $20 (Oregon) 90/100

King Estate 2023 Havlin Vineyard Grüner Veltliner – A startlingly flavorful wine – startling because all too often this grape fails to show much personality in the new world. Here it’s alive with peppery spice, crisp green herbs, lime zest and grapefruit. Showing good focus and concentration, it’s a fine example of an often-overlooked variety that should find an excellent place among Oregon’s white wines. 150 cases; 14.1%; $28 (Willamette Valley) 93/100

King Estate 2022 Four Nobles Cuvée Blanc – The two nobles at the head of the table are Gewurztraminer and Pinot Gris, with Muscat and Riesling seated nearby. Spicy, tangy and expressive, this shows plenty of orange and other citrus flavor, juicy acids, medium length and fine detail through a long-lasting finish. An aromatic and intriguing tribute to the noble grapes of Alsace. 150 cases; 13.2%; $32 (Willamette Valley) 92/100

King Estate 2024 Pinot Gris – A can’t miss choice from this Pinot Gris specialist, it’s the most widely-available of their PG offerings. It’s a textbook example of Oregon’s proven new world approach, with generous fruit flavors of citrus, apple and pear. There is a sense that some portion went through malolactic fermentation, adding a light and pleasing buttery note and taming any overt acidity. Quaffable, affordable and immensely enjoyable, this is the style of wine – all wine – that the world needs more of. 71000 cases; 13.3%; $20 (Willamette Valley) 91/100

King Estate 2024 Artisan Series Pinot Gris – From the acknowledged leader in Oregon Pinot Gris, this is a fine value and a delicious wine. It’s an estate-grown, biodynamic, limited-production wine with a colorful hummingbird label and a handy screwcap. Packed with zesty fruit flavors of lemon, lime, grapefruit and green melon, buoyed with well-rounded acidity, and finishing with refreshing minerality, this wine is a total gem. 4500 cases; 13.5%; $20 (Willamette Valley) 93/100

King Estate 2023 Domaine Pinot Gris – This reserve bottling is 100% estate sourced and gets an extra year in bottle prior to release. It’s clearly a bigger, richer, more powerful wine than the companion offerings, and more than delivers extra depth, flavor and texture in return for your extra dollars. Dense and mineral-backed fruit flavors combine citrus, apple, white peach and Asian pear in a generous and long-lasting palate. It also has the capacity to age well, often better than many Chardonnays. At five or six years post-release this wine will surprise you with its development and complexity. That said, it’s in fine drinking condition right now. 1500 cases; 13.6%; $40 (Willamette Valley) 94/100

King Estate 2023 Inscription Pinot Noir – For a lightweight, affordable, all Willamette Valley Pinot Noir you can’t do better than this. There’s a lot made and widely available in the market, and it’s half estate-grown fruit, leaning on strawberries and a hint of milk chocolate. The handsome package looks like a more expensive wine. It’s not that, but it is clean and fresh and tastes like unadulterated Pinot Noir, not souped up with coloring agents, residual sugar or oak chips. Just good, honest, solid winemaking. 46000 cases; 13.4%; $22 (Willamette Valley) 90/100

King Estate 2023 Artisan Series Pinot Noir – This companion to the Artisan Series Pinot Gris is all estate fruit, perhaps from younger vines. It’s brambly, herbaceous, peppery and firm, with mixed red fruits. A hint of cola sneaks into the finish through a side door. Drink over the next two or three years. 3000 cases; 13%; $29 (Willamette Valley) 90/100

King Estate 2023 Pinot Noir – Full-bodied and loaded with punchy, juicy berry fruit, this generally includes some estate-grown fruit along with purchase grapes from the greater Willamette Valley. The finish rounds out with black cherry and a touch of sweet tobacco. 23000 cases; 14%; $30 (Willamette Valley) 91/100

King Estate 2022 Domaine Pinot Noir – Given an extra year in bottle, this is the estate reserve, aged 18 months in 30% new barrels. It’s a balanced mix of blueberry, plum, marionberry and Bing cherry fruit, with moderate acids. Phenolic highlights suggest some extra skin contact, and they give the wine a stiff, savory frame. Additional time in bottle could smooth some rough edges; for now decant it a couple of hours before drinking. 400 cases; 13%; $70 (Willamette Valley) 92/100

White Walnut Estate

Chris Mazepink worked in a New York wine shop during college. His interests in skiing, fly fishing and winemaking brought him to Corvallis to enroll in the wine program at Oregon State in the early 2000s. He left there early and went to Willamette Valley Vineyards working with lead winemaker Joe Dobbes. The next stop was at Shea as assistant winemaker; then to Benton Lane, followed by six years making wine at Archery Summit. In 2013 he purchased an abandoned walnut orchard on 11 acres in the Dundee Hills. Planting began in 2015 and finished in 2016. A little wine was made in 2018 but 2019 was his first significant vintage. My reviews of those wines were very positive, with scores from 92 to 95. The outstanding White Walnut 2021s followed a similar path. And now on the 2023s.

Heads up: the length and flavor development in these young Chardonnays as they travel down through the palate and into extended finishes is a big part of what makes them exceptional. They may startle and challenge you, but they will never bore you.

White Walnut 2023 Dundee Hills Chardonnay – Luscious, tart and mouthfilling, this rich and complex wine is blended with biodynamically-farmed grapes (and presumably fermented with wild yeasts). It has a feral aspect, wrapping the citrus and apple fruit in accents of wildflowers, bee pollen and truffle salt. Excellent balance and length, flavorful start to finish, and a bit of a walk on the wild side. 510 cases; 13.2%; $40 (Dundee Hills) 93/100

White Walnut 2023 Apple Field Vineyard Chardonnay – This shows even more of the musky, wild, feral character in the Dundee Hills bottling. This fifth or sixth leaf fruit is dense with flavor, a mix of floral pollens, mushrooms, apples and white peaches. Any entrée with a mushroom cream sauce would beg to have this by its side. The finish envelopes the back palate with resonating mushroomy flavors. I suspect you will either absolutely love this wine or quickly find it’s not for you. But you shouldn’t pass it by without giving it a try. 165 cases; 13.3%; $55 (Dundee Hills) 93/100

White Walnut 2023 White Walnut Vineyard Chardonnay – This estate vineyard was planted in 2015-16, and continues to show excellent long term potential as the vines mature. Crisp, fresh and almost steely, this has admirable clarity and definition. Mixed apple, jicama and green pineapple fruits, sassy acids, and a sharp phenolic edge. This should be in prime drinking territory in another three or four years. 285 cases; 13.4%; $55 (Dundee Hills) 94/100

White Walnut 2023 Worden Hill Rd. Chardonnay – A blend of mixed clones fermented with native yeasts, whole clusters and and a variety of vessel types. A whiff of pine resin, rosemary and lemon rind starts it off. It has a hint of the Dundee Hills bottling’s wildness, more of the crystal clarity of the White Walnut vineyard selection, and a full-bodied and fleshy definition across the palate. The lemon flavors turn into lemon curd with a mix of citrus and herbal tea following as it trails out. 165 cases; 13.3%; $55 (Dundee Hills) 95/100

White Walnut 2023 Apple Field Vineyard Pinot Noir – Planted just seven years previously, this is a forward, easy-drinking wine. The flavors mix strawberries, raspberries and red plums, with moderate acids. It tightens up through the finish, firm, clean and well-framed with supporting acids. 200 cases; 14.4%; $65 (Dundee Hills) 92/100

White Walnut 2023 Worden Hill Road Pinot Noir – Maybe it’s the name, but is there a hint of walnut skin wrapped around this tangy cherry bomb? The fruit, from young vines, is forward and fresh, crisp and clean. Though light in body, this is compensated by its instant flavor appeal. Drink now and over the next half decade. 175 cases; 14.4%; $65 (Dundee Hills) 92/100

White Walnut 2023 Amphora Pinot Noir – The name says it all, and gives a sense of how this will hit the palate. No influence detectable from any time in new barrels, rather this is showing the light salinity and drying minerality that clay amphora can impart. Crisp, clean, clear flavors of fresh-picked raspberries stand firm and centered in mid-palate. The balance is spot on, and as enjoyable as this wine is already, its best days are a few years away. 105 cases; 13.9%; $65 (Dundee Hills) 93/100

White Walnut 2023 White Walnut Vineyard Pinot Noir – Lightly ripened, tart, brambly, just-picked wild blackberries are called to mind while sipping this wine. There are juicy highlights of blood orange and pineapple, all firmly set against balanced acids and tannins. Elegant and poised, with a finishing trail of sassafras and toasted hazelnuts, this delicious wine should age beautifully. Drink now through the mid-2030s. 250 cases; 14.3%; $65 (Dundee Hills) 94/100

White Walnut 2023 Dundee Hills Pinot Noir – Dark and rich, this pulls in fruit from vineyards that were planted as far back as 1996. Blackberry, black cherry, plum and fig flavors abound, framed with light notes of barrel toast. The texture and wet rock highlights extend and amplify the fruit through a long, clean finish. This is the most dark and powerful of the 2023s, with grippy tannins finishing it off. 960 cases; 14.2%; $45 (Dundee Hills) 94/100

Note to Wine Marketers

I hope you will use my notes and scores in your sales materials. I’m often quoted by online retailers such as Full Pull, Last Bottle, Avalon and others who regularly feature Pacific Northwest wines. It helps us both if you quote my work, and it’s yours for the taking at no charge. Please subscribe to this Substack so that when reviews are published you will see them. I do not always send out alerts to wineries when their reviews are live. When you subscribe those reviews will show up in your email the minute they are posted. If there is any doubt, or if you want to research past reviews, it’s easy to do a quick search on Substack. You may always send me a note to determine the status of any wines submitted for review.