Despite What You May Have Read Elsewhere Pinot Noir Wines Can And Do Age Beautifully

Plus: New releases from Abbey Road Farm, Armstrong Family and Holocene

Long ago, in a junior high geography class taught by an acerbic immigrant from what was then called Yugoslavia, I had a classmate whose last name was Bliss. Her attention may have wandered from time to time when called upon to answer some challenging question about, well, Yugoslavia. On one occasion our exasperated instructor announced to the class “Ignorance is Bliss!” I’m sure Ms. Bliss has forgotten the incident long ago, but to this day that moment sticks in my mind.

Over time experience has shown that sometimes ignorance can generate more discussion and deliver more value than a well-reasoned argument. I was reminded of the power of ignorance this week after I posted a link to a wine article headlined “Why Doesn’t Pinot Noir Age As Well As Other Red Wines?”

The article grabbed my attention because right from the get-go I completely disagreed with that premise. The story itself rambled on and on about how Pinot Noir has relatively low tannins and therefore cannot possibly age as well as high tannic reds such as Cabernet Sauvignon or Tannat. Apart from the fact that tannin is just a single component in the complex aging process of any wine – and notably missing in brilliantly ageworthy white wines such as Riesling and Chenin Blanc – the story completely dodged far more important questions about ageworthy wines.

My Substack colleague Joel Butler who writes The WineKnowLog dove into the topic with a long and nicely detailed roundup of aging potential for a long list of grape varieties. I had asked for comments from winemakers on social media and was deluged with them, virtually all agreeing with me that Pinot Noirs – when grown in the right place, cultivated properly and finished by a winemaker who knows what they’re doing – can and do age well.

It’s quite possible to make the argument that a great Pinot can age as well or better than a great Cabernet. From start to finish Pinot Noir can offer more subtle, complex and varied aromatics than sturdier, more tannic reds. After some decades Pinots may remain silky and textured, while Cabs often turn into ‘old red wine’ with flavors indistinguishable from every other tannic old red wine.

But apart from that, for me the more important question, unasked by the article’s author, is how to determine the ‘optimal’ drinking window for Pinot Noir and any other wine not destined for immediate consumption. There is no one answer; it is and should be different for different grape varieties, different wine regions, different vintages and different palates. Over many years and many tens of thousands of wines I’ve dialed in my own preferences for the types of wines that I hold in my cellar. But those are just my own preferences, not hard and fast rules.

What is meant by “aging well” anyway? Wines age gradually and unevenly. They may hold onto primary fruit for years, or they may begin to oxidize into secondary flavors rather quickly. Their tannins may be hard and green and require decades to soften (this is why some red wines from California and Washington that were made in the sixties or seventies seem indestructible a half century on). As for wines from recent decades, they are different in every possible way from wines of a half century ago. No wines from anywhere are designed to age indefinitely. Wine continues to evolve for better or worse from the time the grapes are crushed until the day the bottle is opened and drunk.

Stated in the simplest terms, what makes a wine ageworthy is balance. Young wines that are balanced, by which I mean all components are in place and in proper proportion, nothing missing, nothing excessive, will have the best chance to age well. The old notion that some very tannic wines will be fine once the tannins drop out ignores the fact that overly tannic wines are unbalanced to begin with and will remain unbalanced no matter what happens with the tannins as the years roll by.

There was a period of time a couple of decades ago when some very talented Willamette Valley winemakers were making Pinot Noirs that pushed alcohol up to 15% or even higher. Some of those wines were delicious when released, and in my reviews I’d give them credit for that. But I would also point out that any sense of balance was likely to be short-lived, like a trained bear balancing on a high wire. OK for the moment, but he’s not going to stay balanced for very long. These days such wines are few and far between. As the industry has matured it’s become clear that lower alcohol is important to maintaining balance long term, as is reducing dependence upon new oak barrels to fill in flavors missing from the actual fruit.

The goal for any cellar should be to provide its owner with well-aged wines that can be enjoyed at the best possible drinking window for the wine and the owner. I have a friend with an excellent palate and a cellar full of wines that for my taste are over the hill; for him they are spot on. He likes old, oxidized red wines. I like more than a trace of fruit.

So I encourage you to explore the parameters of your own tastes to find what is most satisfying for you. There are no right or wrong conclusions. And don’t believe the experts. For many years I drank only young Chianti Classico because the experts said it wouldn’t age. Then on a trip to Tuscany I rummaged around in some dusty bins in a wine shop and found some 20 and 30 year old wines for sale. Guess what? They were delicious. Turns out Chianti Classico can age beautifully.

Back to ignorance is bliss. In this instance, the ignorance of the writer who penned the original article demeaning Pinot Noir led to some great discussion, some interesting commentary and further thoughts on the more important topic of what really matters when aging wine. And yes, the consensus among many dozens of replies to my original post (which often included examples of specific old Pinots that tasted wonderful after many decades) was that Pinot Noir ages every bit as well as any other red wines. If there are wines that outlive them they are white wines, particularly high acid and/or high sugar white wines. I’ll leave that topic for another day.

Abbey Road Farm

A few years ago I visited Abbey Road Farm while researching a Wine Enthusiast story on wineries that included working farms. That property had recently come under new ownership and undergone major renovation. I was shown a just-planted vineyard with some unusual varieties in the mix. This past week I had the chance to taste through a number of those estate-grown wines from the 2022 and 2023 vintages. Here are the highlights.

Abbey Road Farm 2023 Trousseau Gris – Good focus, with pinpoint flavors of white peach and Meyer lemon. The acids are supportive but not dominant, and barrel fermenting has added a touch of fresh baked biscuit. An interesting and stylish white wine alternative. 107 cases; 13.8%; $34 (Yamhill-Carlton) 90/100

Abbey Road Farm 2022 Trousseau – Trousseau feels like a hefty brother to Pinot Noir, though the grapes are not related. It’s relatively light in hue; red berries and underbrush comprise the palate with firm tannins and supporting acids. This well-balanced effort has more tannin and stuffing than most Pinots, showing power more than elegance and detail. It holds up well on the second day. 13%; $42 (Yamhill-Carlton) 90/100

Abbey Road Farm 2023 Concreto Gamay Noir – Not a big wine, but fresh and flavorful with cranberry and red plum, spiced up with tart acids and lemony herbs. After a solid mid-palate the flavors gently tail off through a long, clean finish. A classic for roast fowl. 162 cases; 13.3%; $34 (Yamhill-Carlton) 90/100

Armstrong Family

Winemaker Tim Armstrong paid a visit and left me a generous selection of his Walla Walla wines, many sourced from a vineyard I regularly pass on my way into the city. It sits high on a hill overlooking Highway 12 just east of town, and was planted a quarter century ago by one of the founders of the Three Rivers winery. It’s now been re-named Wheat Ridge and is managed (though not owned) by the Armstrong winery.

Tim explained that his journey into winemaking began with a single bottle of Walla Walla Vintners Merlot that was sold to him at a wine shop in Chicago. He sat on it for half a year before finally giving it a try (he admits he had no clue where Walla Walla was) and it not only struck him as extraordinary, it ultimately led him to move to the Northwest and start a winery in Woodinville. In just a few years he ran out of space and moved production to Walla Walla, where a new tasting room is planned for a Spring Release weekend opening.

Before we tasted any wines Tim advised me that “I’m not a concentration and density guy; more restraint [is the goal]”. Which appeals to me as restraint is often an indication that a wine will be polished, complex and aromatic. Tim’s wines hit those marks and more.

Armstrong 2023 Wild Angels Chardonnay ­ Sourced from the Copeland Vineyard in the Rattlesnake Hills, this is a supple, layered and generous wine with superb texture and depth. Barrel fermented in one quarter new French oak, it shows a balanced palate with lush apple, pear, peach and tangerine fruits set against framing barrel toast and tannins. It has tamed some of the brightness of many Washington Chardonnays in favor of more texture and detail through the finish. 190 cases; 13.6%; $35 (Washington) 93/100

Armstrong 2021 Bogie’s Blend Red ­– Sourced from the estate’s Wheat Ridge vineyard, this is 56% Cabernet and 44% Syrah, aged in one third new French oak. This is made with a light touch, and the red fruits lean into strawberry and tart white raspberry flavors. There’s a sharp edge to the wine, with hints of dried Italian herbs. Nicely balanced, with a touch of butterscotch as it rolls through the finish. Should be at best drinking window over the next three or four years. 135 cases; 13.9%; $55 (Walla Walla Valley) 91/100

Armstrong 2021 Journey West Cabernet Sauvignon – This estate-grown 100% varietal wine neatly expresses a style of Cabernet particular to the Walla Walla Valley. By that I mean it expresses the full flavor range of the grape, with the savory/herbal highlights well-integrated. The red fruits are a bit lean and supported with proportionate acids and tannins. The overall sense is of a slighted muted palate, like a gauzy photograph. Back in the day it might have been called a perfect food wine. Though the winery notes that it was aged in 80% new barrels the oak is not overpowering, and puts a firm frame around the finish. 75 cases; 13.9%; $85 (Walla Walla Valley) 92/100

Armstrong 2020 Sally Mac Cabernet Sauvignon – Principally Cabernet Sauvignon, with Merlot and Petit Verdot splitting 22% of the final blend, this is still current though it’s been out for a few years. The extra bottle age works to its advantage, amping up the lovely and complex aromas of berries, bramble and brush. The palate is firmly anchored in ripe tannins with hints of coffee and tobacco. Of all the Armstrong reds reviewed here I’d predict this to have the longest life ahead. Drink now into the 2040s. 475 cases; 14.3%; $60 (Walla Walla Valley) 94/100

Armstrong 2022 Four Birds Red – Four Birds is half Merlot, the other half a mix of Cabernet Sauvignon, Cab Franc and Petit Verdot, sourced from four different Walla Walla vineyards (the birds?). It’s the winery’s biggest production wine, and as with all of Tim Armstrong’s reds, this is poised and perfectly balanced, with reverence for the subtle details often missing from bigger fruit bomb wines. Don’t get me wrong, I love fruit and I want fruit and here there is a nice mix of strawberries, raspberries, red plums and Bing cherries, accented with dried herbs. Along for the ride you’ll find supple acids, moderate tannins and a firm structure that will support further aging. 985 cases; 13.8%; $40 (Walla Walla Valley) 92/100

Armstrong 2022 ‘Fronk’ Cabernet Franc – Pure varietal from the Les Collines vineyard, this playful take on Cab Franc fits the winery style, which is lighter wines with complete, full flavors that include all parts of the spectrum. Not only the fruit and tannin, but all the herbs and savory accents that make for a rich, let elegant expression can be found here. Those savory flavors and a suggestion of roasted coffee beans make this is a stellar wine for pasta in red sauce. 300 cases; 13.6%; $45 (Walla Walla Valley) 93/100

Armstrong 2021 Ebby James Syrah – This has excellent color extraction and compelling aromatics, with a citrus top note that complements the darker fruits. Blackberries, black cherries and a hint of cassis come through, with a full throttle, meaty mid-palate that retains its concentration right on through the finish. Darker flavors continue, with roasted coffee beans, baker’s chocolate, black licorice and char adding depth and complexity. If you love Walla Walla Syrah but not the funk of the Rocks District versions, grab this one. 200 cases; 14.5%; $50 (Walla Walla Valley) 94/100

Armstrong 2020 The Scotsman Syrah – Pure Syrah from the Discovery Vineyard, this is intended to be an ode to Australian Shiraz, and in particular to offer a salute to Scotsman James Busby, an early pioneer in that country’s wine industry. Following the Australian template American oak barrels were used – 42% new. Tasted three years after bottling the wine is on the brink of a prime drinking window. Smooth and supple, with a mix of red and purple fruits, it coasts along on a bed of soft tannins, with highlights of vanilla pudding and a dash of saffron. Optimal drinking is now through the rest of this decade. 300 cases; 13.9%; $45 (Horse Heaven Hills) 94/100

Holocene/The Black Square

Holocene is the Oregon Pinot Noir project from Todd and Carrie Alexander. The Black Square is the first release of a Cabernet from their Rocks District vineyard. These are allocated to mailing list customers. Click on the link to sign up.

Holocene 2023 Memorialis Pinot Noir – This is the original Holocene wine, starting with the 2015 vintage. The vineyard dates to the mid-1990s and the wine is whole cluster fermented. Svelte, silky, sensuous in the mouth, this brings the elegant complexity that elevates the finest Pinot Noirs above most other single varietal wines. Replete with red fruits that show a hint of cherry candy, it sails across the palate on a base of lemon drop acidity. Give it ample breathing time or wait a few more years to taste it at its best. 360 cases; 13.6%; $65 (Yamhill-Carlton) 94/100

Holocene 2023 Sidereal Pinot Noir – Sidereal is all Pommard clone sourced from a small, east-facing Ribbon Ridge vineyard. The elegance and power of this small AVA are on full display, along with hints of the ancient seashells in the uplifted seabed soils. Regular readers of this Substack know of my affection for wines from Ribbon Ridge, and this does not in any way disappoint. Clear, clean, crisp cranberry and raspberry fruit flavors float above penetrating minerality, with persistence and texture throughout a long finish. 13.3%; $65 (Ribbon Ridge) 95/100

The Black Square 2022 Cabernet Sauvignon – The Black Square is a new wine from Todd Alexander, a single vineyard expression from the Rocks District AVA. It’s been given 22 months in 70% new French oak barrels and is lushly endowed with a rich mix of berry, plum and cherry fruit, that coats the palate and complements the new barrel spices. Delicious right from the start, this is structured for blossoming over the rest of the decade, with long term aging a clear possibility. 14.7% (Rocks District) 94/100

Music News

Many of you know that I’ve been performing in and around Walla Walla for the past 15 years, most recently in a rock ‘n’ roll quartet called the DavePaul5. To start the new year I’ve teamed up with three other talented musicians to form ‘Friends of the Devil’. Our setlist includes a generous selection of Grateful Dead tunes, some familiar (Ripple, Dire Wolf) and some for the die-hard Deadheads (Loser, Jack-a-Roe). We also do a lot of Dylan (all songs that were covered by the Dead), some Neil Young, and a smattering of alt-country/cowboy country tunes. I’ll be playing some of these songs at the upcoming Royal Block open mic in Waitsburg on March 6th. The full band is playing at American 35 (also in Waitsburg) on March 21st, and at Echolands winery on March 28th. Hope to see some of you at any or all upcoming shows!