Creative Winemakers Are Thinking Outside The Box

Exceptional wines from David Hill, Long Shadows, Trisaetum and more!

During the first decades of the modern American wine industry there was endless experimentation. Much of what is now taken for granted had to be explored and created from scratch. Trellising, irrigation techniques, and foundational AVAs were discovered and perfected. Fermentation processes and vessels were tried and discarded, embraced and out grown. The rise of powerful critics had an impact on winemaking styles. The academic opportunities to study enology and viticulture expanded, as did the chances to work harvest on both sides of the Atlantic, and in both hemispheres, ultimately bringing many traditional winemaking techniques back into the spotlight.

While all this was happening, boomer consumers were getting excited about wine, discovering how it enhances meals and adds zest to all social occasions. Their tasting decisions drove changes in wine popularity, as Chardonnay was in, then out; Merlot was flabby, then fashionable; and emerging wine regions searched for that elusive ‘signature’ varietal wine.

Just when it seemed that we’d run out of innovation, a new generation has come along and embraced the challenges of carving out new trails with pet-nats, orange wines, obscure varieties and untried blends. Here in the Pacific Northwest vineyards are going in where no one ever imagined they could succeed; grape varieties once deemed ungrowable so far north are thriving, sparkling wines that rival true Champagne are being made, and both Oregon and Washington are leading the country with sustainable, earth-friendly viticulture. Somehow this ongoing burst of creativity, powered largely by entry-level winemakers, has been all but ignored by the Greek chorus of crepe-hanging doomsayers who seem to dominate the wine media.

Not a day goes by that I am not drowning in bad wine news. Here’s an example from this past week. Writing on his Napa Valley Features Substack, Tim Carl reports on the latest dismal Wine Institute numbers showing California production in steep decline, with Napa feeling it the worst. His conclusion: “Producers may try to raise prices to stem losses, but they cannot create volume where none exists. Jobs will likely be lost as companies tighten operations or, for those still betting on growth, attempt to wait out the decline. The Wine Institute may have hoped to bury these figures with a quiet Friday release, but the data speak for themselves: the U.S. wine industry is in structural decline, and Napa is on the front line of its impact.”

I’m not going to argue with any of these numbers; the decline is a fact. But is it really exceptional or unexpected? If Napa is the poster child for the California wine industry, and by extension for the health of the industry throughout the country, it doesn’t take an Oppenheimer to figure out the real root of the troubles.

When I made my first visit to Napa many years ago arriving there as a tourist, not a wine writer, I drove down with two friends in a pickup truck. We rented a flat above a small winery in St. Helena for something like $80 a night. We visited several wineries daily with no reservations, no tasting charges and no clogged highways to navigate. We often were hosted by the winemaker. We ate well at good restaurants (Mustards Grill!) with excellent wine lists. We spent no more than we’d have spent on any modest vacation anywhere. We were all young, employed and making average salaries. The point being – we could go to Napa, dine in Napa, explore wineries, taste wines and bring a few cases home without taking out a second mortgage. Can anyone who isn’t wealthy do the same today?

I asked ChatGPT to total up the cost of an average weekend in Napa today for food, lodging and tasting fees. “My wife and I would like to visit the Napa Valley”, I queried. “We’ll arrive mid-day Friday and leave Sunday evening. We’d like comfortable lodging for two nights, three lunches and dinners at quality restaurants, and visits to a total of 12 wineries, all pouring wines that scored 90 points or higher. What kind of budget will we need?”

Here’s the reply (just the bare bones - a lot of background material was also included). The initial response came with an offer to do a spreadsheet, plan a complete itinerary, and arrange for a private butler (OK that last item wasn’t included, but I’ll bet I could request it).

ChatGPT: Here’ a realistic, evidence-based budget for you + your wife (2 people) for a Friday mid-day →Sunday evening Napa getaway that includes comfortable lodging for 2 nights, lunches & dinners, transport, and visits to 12 wineries pouring 90+ wines. I show three sensible tiers (Budget, Mid, Luxury) using current Napa tourism and industry sources for tasting-fee and lodging realities.

 Budget couple total: ~$2,600 – $3,700
(cheap lodging, modest lunches/dinners, lower-end tasting fees, rental car, small extras)

 Mid / Comfortable couple total: ~$6,250 – $9,500
(nice 4-star lodging, most tastings are reserve/90+ at realistic fees, nicer restaurants, private driver for at least one day or 2 mid-range private tour days)

 Luxury couple total: ~$10,500 – $15,000+
(high-end resort or boutique property, mostly reserve tastings at upscale fees, multiple Michelin/fine-dining meals, private driver both days, minimum wine purchases)

Back to ChatPG: Backed with real world examples these numbers seem fair; if anything on the low side. But the point is made. How many young consumers can afford to spend that kind of money for a weekend getaway to taste a little wine? Any wonder why tourism is down, purchasing is down, and production is falling off a cliff? Napa is Vinotopia for rich people.

Taking a big picture view, the exponential growth of the wine industry isn’t endlessly sustainable any more than your favorite restaurant chain, coffee company or fashion label. Businesses get start-up money, maybe get lucky, have their TikTok moment, and let the good times roll. Shareholders get used to reliable profits, CEOs project rapid growth and everything’s rosy… until it isn’t. And then stores are shuttered, jobs are lost, profits tank, heads roll and the business shrinks and eventually vanishes.

Wine is no less fashionable or trend-driven. And the industry has faced worse problems in the past – Europe in the late 1800s ravaged by phylloxera; then decimated by two world wars; the U.S. when Prohibition was the law of the land. The last half century brought unprecedented growth globally, as the romance of winemaking enchanted both investors and consumers. And now comes the inevitable adjustment – shrinkage is real and inevitable after decades of unparalleled growth.

And now for the good news – there is still much to celebrate. The wines being made today, here in the Pacific Northwest and throughout the world, are higher in quality, more diverse and far more creative than at any time in history. The Roman emperors never had it so good.

My tasting of new releases from David Hill brought a number of these trends into focus, with stunning examples of old vine wines from lovingly renovated 60’s-era vines and a solera-style rosé. You read that right – a solera-style rosé. Here are the notes from the winery:

“This Rosé was intentionally crafted each step of the way, using a 12 barrel Solera style system in the wine making process. This unique blending method, where a new vintage is added to older vintages, continually rotating barrels and vintages as fermentation takes place, is widely used in making Sherry. This wine utilizes vintages from 2019 to 2022, and was aged in neutral French oak to give it a unique texture, and put through malolactic fermentation to round out its finish yet maintain a refreshing acidity.”

Across the portfolio David Hill wines bring a rare combination of old vine grapes, unique varieties and affordable prices. Historic, long neglected vines have been restored and converted to organic, sustainable farming. Since 2019 consulting winemaker Chad Stock has led the progression to becoming a ‘natural’ winery in the best sense of the word.

David Hill 2023 Block 16 Sylvaner – Sylvaner is rare in Oregon; this old vine selection was originally planted in the mid-1960s by pioneering vintner Charles Coury. Aromas conjure up hibiscus tea sipped at the ocean, while the complex palate brings starfruit, dried citrus, Anjou pear and almond paste. One quarter was fermented and aged in terracotta amphorae and the rest in stainless steel. 110 cases; 13%; $32 (Tualatin Hills) 91/100

David Hill 2021 Block 18 Melon de Bourgogne – This is the current vintage, released this summer. It spent 42 months on the lees, and is all the better for it. Lovely texture, full-bodied yet light, it walks the line between tart and fleshy, with a mix of citrus flesh and rind, jasmine tea and a hint of salinity. The lingering finish resonates with umami. Subtle, elegant and beautifully crafted. 175 cases; 12.4%; $36 (Tualatin Hills) 93/100

David Hill 2024 Wirtz Vineyard Pinot Gris – Made from vines a half century old, most likely cuttings from the original Eyrie planting of Pinot Gris. This young wine shows the tenacity, texture and detail of old vines, and proves once again that Pinot Gris is every bit as complex and ageworthy as any Chardonnay. Green banana, saltine cracker, lemon curd and dried Italian herbs are on display, the palate already rounded out from aging in large ovals. 150 cases; 13.9% $35 (Tualatin Hills) 94/100

David Hill 2023 Wirtz Vineyard Chardonnay – This is a bit riper than the excellent 2022, aged as before in 40% new French oak. The ripe, rich palate mixes apple, pear, white peach and melon fruit flavors, underscored with moderate acidity and a touch of salinity. 100 cases; 13.5%; $55 (Tualatin Hills) 91/100

David Hill 2023 Pinot Noir Rosé – This unusually rich rosé is a textural pleasure, weaving a tapestry of dried orchard fruits, straw and herbes de Provence. Though labeled as a 2023, it is made via a multi-vintage solera process and includes small amounts of wines from 2019 - 2022. It shows best through a long, lush and complex finish. I’ve never had anything like it, and it’s delicious. 737 cases; 14%; $32 (Tualatin Hills) 93/100

David Hill 2023 BlackJack Old Vine Pinot Noir – This is 100% Coury clone, old vine juice from the original 1965 plantings in the estate 21 block. Note that there is another old vine Pinot which mixes grapes from a variety of clones. Here the focus and purity of flavor stand out. Old vines can still make a young wine, and this is loaded with fresh blueberry and blackberry fruit, juicy and crisp. But it’s layered down from there, with subtle accents of dried herbs, compost, seagrass, coffee grounds, iron filings and cedar shakes. A superb vintage for a great wine. 400 cases; 13.7%; $65 (Tualatin Hills) 96/100

More New Releases

Long Shadows

Long Shadows 2024 Poet’s Leap Riesling – This is classic Washington state Riesling, walking a tightrope between sweet and sour, finished dry but with enough fruit sweetness to cut any sourness. It’s loaded with a juicy mix fruits, highlighted with citrus – lemon and grapefruit, adding a burst of tangerine. The elevating acids give a refreshing lift to the finish. 6025 cases; 12.1%; $20 (Columbia Valley) 94/100

Long Shadows 2024 Cymbal Sauvignon Blanc – The Cymbal has been a welcome addition to the Long Shadows portfolio, with no outside ‘consulting’ winemaker as with the original lineup. Gilles Nicault has a fine touch here, fermenting different lots in stainless steel, cement egg, neutral and new oak barrels to achieve a focused, varietally spot-on style with a fruit-driven mix of nectarine, guava, pineapple and Meyer lemon. The herbaceous accents are light and fresh, with none of the palate-challenging pyrazines that can push the grape over a flavor cliff. 1972 cases; 14.3%; $35 (Columbia Valley) 94/100

Long Shadows 2023 Dance Chardonnay – Too many Washington Chardonnays seem unbridled, with such powerful fruit that it closes out details of texture and shortens the finish. Not here – this is a master class in balance. There’s plenty of fruit – ripe apples, pears and papaya – leading into a long, textured finish with citrus rind, wet stone and a touch of vanilla. The acids are proportionate and refreshing, while the flavors resonate beautifully long after you’ve downed that first sip. 978 cases; 14.2%; $42 (Columbia Valley) 95/100

Long Shadows 2021 Saggi – Just minor tweaks are made annually to this SuperTuscan style blend, currently 62% Sangiovese, 26% Cabernet Sauvignon and 12% Syrah. It’s a big wine generally over 15% abv, and one wishes it were a bit lower, which would enhance the aromas. But the style is well established and consistent. The Sangiovese component blends grapes from vineyards spread across three AVAs – Walla Walla, Candy Mountain and Yakima Valley. Black cherry and cassis, espresso and lightly chalky tannins roll on through a medium long finish. 2035 cases; 15.2%; $70 (Columbia Valley) 92/100

Long Shadows 2021 Pedestal Merlot – The new vintage of Pedestal Merlot includes 11% Cabernet Sauvignon and a healthy 9% addition of Petit Verdot. Aged 22 months in three quarters new French oak, it continues along the same stylistic road as previous vintages, with alcohol above 15%, astringent and chewy tannins, and a wealth of new barrel accents – char, toast, licorice and tobacco. It’s a style that seems closer to California than Washington state, which many tasters will appreciate. I’d sock this away for another 3 to 5 years – it’s a big, bruiser of a Merlot and needs more time to soften. 2730 cases; 15.2%; $75 (Columbia Valley) 93/100

Long Shadows 2021 Sequel Syrah – This spicy Syrah is a savvy blend of grapes from Boushey, old vine Bacchus, and a mix of Red Mountain and Horse Heaven Hills fruit. Winemaker Gilles Nicault manages this menagerie with style and verve, coaxing a tapestry of black fruits, figs, espresso, cut tobacco and peppery herbs into a fully-formed whole. As with all great blends, what it gives away in typicity it gains in breadth. 2127 cases; 15.1%; $70 (Columbia Valley) 93/100

From The Cellar

Chester|Kidder 2007 Red – What a treasure! Mature yes, but in perfect condition. The blend is mostly Cabernet with Syrah and small amounts of other red grapes. Wonderful texture, aromatics and depth. Fully integrated barrel spices, richly accented black fruits with sandalwood, mocha, coffee, cut tobacco… just a joy to drink. 96/100.

My original Wine Enthusiast review in 2010 named this wine a Cellar Selection and awarded it 93 points. “Well-integrated and focused, with high-toned black cherry fruit set in dusty tannins. Scents of sandalwood drift through, along with cocoa and spice. As good or even better than the outstanding 2006.”

Trisaetum

It was in 2005, Trisaetum’s James Frey recounted in an interview a couple of years ago, that he somehow “heard about a hazelnut farm situated on Ribbon Ridge between Beaux Frères, Patricia Green and Brick House that was going to go on the market. We had just planted our home site vineyard in the Coast Range and were looking for a second vineyard site to eventually build our winery. Based on how much I loved the wines coming from Ribbon Ridge in the early 2000s, I made an offer on the property sight unseen before it hit the market. One of the best decisions I’ve ever made.”

As the winery celebrates the 20th anniversary of that fateful decision, there have been some big changes. Along with the original focus on Riesling and Pinot Noir, there is a little Chardonnay, a sparkling wine brand (Pashey), and a thriving spirits enterprise headed up by daughter Tatum Frey and her husband Jackson. Son Tristen is now the General Manager for all Trisaetum brands.

Trisaetum 2023 Willamette Valley Pinot Noir – Grapes from all three estate vineyards are in the blend, so it’s fair to call this a reverse barrel selection. On the plus side it’s gotten the same care as the more expensive single vineyard and reserve bottlings. And it’s more ready for near term drinking, with the blending smoothing out some of the sharp edges of the other wines. With clean, tart berry fruit and a streak of chicken stock, it’s a fine value, well-balanced Pinot Noir expressing the many traits of cool climate Willamette Valley fruit. 2328 cases; 13.2%; $40 (Willamette Valley) 92/100

Trisaetum 2023 Wichmann Dundee Pinot Noir – Still pulling itself together, this supple and spicy wine has exceptional potential for aging. For now it broadcasts taut red fruits, grape skin phenolics (one quarter whole cluster ferment) and touches of garden herbs. Lightly toasty from 22% new barrels. Drink from 2030 on. 313 cases; 13.3%; $60 (Dundee Hills) 93/100

Trisaetum 2023 Ribbon Ridge Estate Pinot Noir – Despite the light abv, this has a strong, pure core of black cherry fruit. A full 70% of the ferment was whole cluster, with followup aging in 22% new oak. The impact of the whole clusters is found in the highlights of sage and thyme, and the barrels bring a dusting of coffee grounds in aromas, texture and trailing flavors. A saline note reflects the high-quartz marine baseline sediment of the AVA. 314 cases; 13% $60 (Ribbon Ridge) 93/100

Trisaetum 2023 Coast Range Estate Pinot Noir – Light aromas of chrysanthemum blossoms, tangy red berry fruit, sappy acids and firm, chalky tannins sum up this young wine. Roughly half was fermented with whole clusters, and aged in one quarter new oak. Good focus, tightly wound and lightly floral, tea-flavored tannins as it trails out. 481 cases; 13.1%; $60 (Yamhill-Carlton) 93/100

Trisaetum 2023 Estates Reserve Pinot Noir – A barrel select using grapes from all three estate vineyards, this is best compared to the Willamette Valley cuvée, and is clearly step up in depth and concentration. Blackberry and touches of red currant fruit combine with tart acids and still sharp phenolics. The mid-palate is full and juicy, with a tantalizing mix of brambly blackberry, caramel and hints of orange liqueur. The complexity and depth of this wine need time and aeration to fully unfold. Tea-flavored tannins resonate like the fading notes of a symphony. 293 cases; 13.2%; $80 (Willamette Valley) 94/100

Trisaetum 2023 Family Reserve MMXXIII Pinot Noir – About 99% of the time a tête de cuvée bottling such as this would be the biggest, strongest, ripest of the entire group. James Frey takes a xxx approach, and this turns out to have the lowest abv of all the 2023 Pinots. This ultra reserve is three quarters whole cluster fermented, aged in 20% new oak and blended from “select portions of barrels” rather than entire barrels. Since Trisaetum’s James Frey is also an exceptionally talented painter - the Trisaetum tasting room serves as his gallery – I can’t help but feel that it is the painter at work here, doing a custom blend with carefully selected colors from his winemaker’s palette (and palate). Whether or not the finished wine is his ‘best’ I leave to you to decide. It stands apart from the other five, with a more obvious impact of new barrel toast at least for now. 56 cases; 12.8%; $100 (Willamette Valley) 9?/100

Bonus Wine

Frescobaldi 2023 Pomino Bianco – This crisp Tuscan white wine, a blend of Chardonnay and Pinot Bianco, is like a fresh salad in a glass, and I mean that as a compliment. Light citrus fruits, salad greens, celery and white radish are some of the flavors, all balanced with appealing elegance. At just 12+% alcohol it can be enjoyed as an aperitif or by the glass with a simple salad. Yet it’s neither simple nor short; in fact the finish is remarkably long, clean and refreshing. $24 (Pomino Bianco DOC) 91/100

Shout Out To George Nordahl’s ‘Down The Rabbit Hole’

George and I have never met, but when I stumbled across his Substack I knew immediately that this was someone with a curious scientific mind and a fascination with the minutiae of wine. As he describes (with disarming modesty) his work, “this is a place where you can stretch your arms wide, and fully embrace your inner wine nerd. The posts you can expect to receive should you be so kind and subscribe will cover interesting topics that most wine writing does not cover. My aim here is to learn something new through writing and researching, and hopefully to share that knowledge with someone who might find it interesting in turn.”

His recent post, exploring the upside and downside of decanting, challenged a few of my own long held assumptions. Isn’t that what the best wine writing should do?

What Actually Happens in a Decanter

If Your Winery Has Submitted Wines For Review In The Past: Please keep sending me new releases! Especially now during this excellent weather for shipping. You are welcome to use my notes and scores in your sales materials – there is no cost, only benefits. If you haven’t already, subscribe to this Substack so that when reviews of your wines are published you won’t miss them. If you want to check on past reviews it’s easy to do a quick search on Substack. I’m now well into my third year with regular posts so there is plenty of archived material that you are free to explore.