Celebrating 250 Years Enjoying Wine In America!

Reviews – Best of ’26 (so far); plus Compton Family, Kiona & Nysa

I’m only fond of certain holidays, maybe because for me everything celebratory ultimately relates back to wine. Hard to find a wine connection for Halloween, for example. Maybe dress up as a cork? But putting that aside; we’re coming up on the 4th of July, especially notable this year as it’s the 250th anniversary of the founding of the country. So I’ve been looking for a way to honor and celebrate the Founders enologically.

As noted on the official Monticello website Thomas Jefferson believed that “in nothing have the habits of the palate more decisive influence than in our relish of wines.” His own habits had been formed over thirty years before, the website explains, at the tables of Parisian philosophes and in the vineyards of Burgundy and Bordeaux. Before his journey to France in 1784, Jefferson, like most of his countrymen, had been a consumer of Madeira and port, with the occasional glass of red wine. As he recalled in 1817, “the taste of this country [was] artificially created by our long restraint under the English government to the strong wines of Portugal and Spain.”

With the exception of a “sufficient” quantity of Scuppernong, all the wines on hand in the Monticello cellar at the time of Jefferson’s death came from southern France. The cellar list and extensive letters published on the website provide evidence that in his later years Jefferson drank wine at table only after the completion of the meal, in the English manner. His habits still reflected his British heritage but his tastes were international. High in flavor but low in alcohol, the wines of France and Italy were the perfect accompaniment to social pleasure and the ‘true restorative cordial,’ as he designated both wine and friendship.”

Above all Jefferson advocated for wine as a healthy alternative to the harsh American spirits of the day. “No nation is drunken where wine is cheap,” he wrote, and actively pressured his Secretary of the Treasury, Albert Gallatin, to lower import tariffs on delicate table wines to encourage a more moderate, sophisticated drinking culture across the United States.

Two and a half centuries later it seems as if we’re still fighting that same battle, as the idea of a moderate, sophisticated approach to drinking has fallen victim to the notion that any and all alcohol for anyone at any time is harmful and damaging. So I will begin my 4th of July celebration with a glass of good wine, from a bottle to be shared with family and friends, and a hearty toast President Jefferson.

If you have enough folks joining your group to open multiple bottles, try pairing up a French Burgundy with an Oregon Chardonnay or Pinot Noir; a French Bordeaux with a Bordeaux blend from Red Mountain; a French GSM or other Rhône blend with a similar blend from the Rocks District. After all it was the French who helped us out during the Revolutionary War, so let’s rejoin that friendship by pairing wines from both sides of the Atlantic.

On this special holiday we can both honor the birthday of this great nation and return to genuine enjoyment of wine as the great beverage of social occasions. Drink less frequently if you wish, or drink less at a single occasion. But drink the good stuff. If wine is no longer a regular part of every meal, so be it. And for those occasions when a special bottle is appropriate, make it a really good one.

With that in mind I’ve looked back at the first half of this year’s wine reviews and chosen some of my very favorites – just one per variety, blend and winery. No paywall – in honor of the 4th these past notes are being reposted so that every subscriber, paid or free, can review them. I’ve selected wines of mid-level affordability that over-deliver in their price range. Some may already be sold out, but they all will lead to a producer whose wines are sure to please.

Day 2023 Aurora Vineyard Arneis – With grapes from this outstanding Ponzi vineyard Brianne Day has made a rich and delicious Arneis – a Piedmontese variety rarely seen in the U.S. let alone in Oregon. First planted in 1990, perhaps these are still the original vines. It’s a thrilling wine, dense with layers of candied citrus, tangerine, ripe apple and papaya. The impactful fruit leads into a full-throttle mid-palate with caramel and nut butter highlights. The balance of fruit and acid is pitch perfect. 159 cases; 13.6%; $36 (Chehalem Mountains) 95/100

Love & Squalor 2022 Dry Riesling – A riot of tart citrus fruits, this soaks the palate in flavor. Juicy and rich, it’s the sort of wine that all but demands a second glass. That explosion of fruit carries the bright and vibrant flavors through a lingering finish. Low abv, low price, very high quality. 45 cases; 11%; $21 (Willamette Valley) 93/100

Evesham Wood 2025 Blanc du Puits Sec – This is principally Pinot Gris and Gewurztraminer, a field blend planted in 1986 and co-fermented with three other high acid white wine grapes. Rich and smooth despite the acidity, it attains a surprisingly creamy character as it glides through a palate-pleasing finish. With textured minerality, a mesh of lemon skin and juice, hints of honeysuckle and a citrusy core of Key lime and pineapple, it’s a versatile, one of a kind, thoroughly delicious white wine and a sensational value. 400 cases; 12.5%; $20 (Eola-Amity Hills) 94/100

Sineann 2024 Pear Blossom Vineyard Gruner Veltliner – A lovely expression of both variety and AVA, this elegant wine carefully brings floral/citrus aromas and flavors into full glory. It moves from a delicate open into a full-bodied middle, loaded with citrus fruits that morph into melon and even light tropical notes. The balance overall is spot on, and the screwcap closure will ensure a relatively long life. 13%; $20 (Columbia Gorge) 94/100

Quady North 2024 Four Diamonds Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc – Lush aromas capture the essence of this variety, a mix of spice, fresh herb, saline and citrus. It’s full and beautifully layered, with impressive depth and length. In short this is a wine that sets the highest possible standard for Oregon Sauvignon Blanc, and will hopefully inspire more vineyards and wineries to follow along. 199 cases; 13.3%; $28 (Applegate Valley) 94/100

Compton 2024 Garden Series Pinot Gris – A pretty straw/gold, this appealing, aromatic, fruit-driven Pinot Gris is a pitch-perfect blend from four different sites. Lush fruit flavors conjure up ripe orchard and light tropical components; the acid/skin tannin balance keeps both in their proper places. The wine fills the palate and rests comfortably before beginning to trail away through a long, refreshing finish with a lick of caramel. 1760 cases; 13.9%; $20 (Willamette Valley) 94/100

Morgen Long 2023 Black Label Chardonnay – This value bottle comes with all the pedigree that has elevated Morgen Long wines to cult status. It’s a blend of grapes from a half dozen sites, including some of the winery’s pricier vineyard designates, all fermented separately in neutral oak and stainless steel. Clean and crisp, with a mix of ripe citrus, apple and pear fruit, this is a medium-weight wine with excellent balance. 310 cases; 12.7%; $35 (Willamette Valley) 92/100

Sleight of Hand 2025 The Magician’s Assistant Cabernet Franc Rosé – A very pale copper color, this well-made rosé is wonderfully aromatic, exploding from the glass with notes of honeysuckle and guava. Round and fruity, it adds a weave of toasted cracker and honeycomb to the fruit flavors of red berries, peaches and apricots. Impressive complexity for a low abv wine, with a long, clean, textured finish. 550 cases; 12.5%; $22 (Yakima Valley) 93/100

Patricia Green Cellars 2024 Estate Vineyard Old Vine Pinot Noir – Planted in 1984, this is the second oldest site in the Ribbon Ridge AVA. I taste hard cherry candy with a pinch of salt, the tell-tale uplifted seabed seashell note that elevates many Ribbon Ridge wines. Both elegant and powerful, this shows immense depth and complexity already, with perhaps decades of aging potential. With ample breathing it begins to unlock, adding nut accents of walnut and almond. 13.8%; $45 (Ribbon Ridge) 97/100

Rotie 2023 Northern Blend – An estate Syrah co-fermented with 5% Viognier. A whiff of citrus elevates the nose. Tea and tobacco, orange peel and a mix of cranberry sauce and raspberry jam, with touches of the funky umami for which the AVA is famous. 869 cases; 14.2%; $58 (Rocks District) 96/100

Secret Squirrel 2019 Cabernet Sauvignon – Given its age this newly-released Bordeaux blend, three quarters Cabernet with Cab Franc, Merlot and Petit Verdot filling it out, is remarkably fresh. It’s packed with deep, dark, dense black fruits highlighted with barrel flavors of toast, earth, licorice and espresso. They darken the finish, which rides on grainy tannins down a long fading trail. 5655 cases; 14.5%; $25 (Columbia Valley) 93/100

Whitman Hill 2022 Cabernet Franc – Classy, aromatic, rich and ripe, this complex wine catches some of the coffee accents of the grape along with balanced components of clean earth and black fruits straight down the center. Barrel aging adds accents of toast, tea and tobacco. This wine spent 30 months in new and once-filled French oak. Full-bodied, expansive, ripe and balanced; this is a very fine value. 220 cases; 13.9%; $30 (Yakima Valley) 94/100

Saviah 2022 Petit Verdot – Petit Verdot, principally a blending grape that contributes a floral top note and dense tannins to Bordeaux blends, is here showcased as a standalone red varietal wine good enough to be given 21 months in 60% new French oak barrels. This has the power and presence of some far pricier Washington reds. Yes it’s quite tannic, but those tannins are ripe and polished and dense and flavorful. This is a great 4th of July bbq wine, so fire up the grill and go for it. 189 cases; 14.6%; $45 (Walla Walla Valley) 95/100

Note to Wineries: Please send your wines as soon as they are released. Include as much technical detail as you can. At a minimum: release dates, retail prices and case quantities for every wine. A broad representation of wines from your portfolio, including wine club only selections, is optimal for a full analysis. Better to send 12 different wines than two bottles of six or just one or two at a time. Only positive recommendations are published.

New reviews (previously unpublished)

Compton Family

Compton 2023 Pinot Blanc – Estate-grown vines planted in 1997 anchor this limited production wine which was fermented in concrete egg and steel tank. The blend brings well-matched and complementary textures, while the fruit is clean and fresh with moderate acidity. A fine all-purpose warm weather white wine. 238 cases; 12.5%; $xx (Willamette Valley) 91/100

Compton 2025 Garden Series Rosé of Pinot Noir – Candy-colored, with lollipop flavors of strawberry and tangerine, this shouts ‘summertime wine’ from the rafters (or maybe the barrel room). It’s finished dry but so effusively fruity that you can taste cotton candy sweetness. It’s delicious and should be enjoyed while fresh and young. 136 cases; 13%; $20 (Willamette Valley) 92/100

Compton 2023 Garden Series Pinot Noir – Aromatic and inviting, this is packed with strawberry and cherry fruit. I used it to test out two radically different stems – a $6 wine glass and a $100 wine glass. The wine was terrific in both of them, more rarefied in the more elegant and expensive stem; bolder and blockier in the budget glass. Whatever your jam, it’s a wine to behold, a lush and fruit-powered golden retriever of a Pinot which will bring a smile as it bounds across the palate. 1056 cases; 13%; $25 (Willamette Valley) 92/100

Compton 2024 Garden Series Cellar Select Pinot Noir – Leading off the 2024 Pinot parade is this Cellar Select, a limited production, Croft vineyard blend of Pommard and Wadenswil clones. It’s been aged exclusively in a single concrete egg, yielding an elegant and tight wine, brand new and waiting to unfold. This will need time and attention, decanting if drunk soon. It’s textured and fine, with strawberries and pomegranate, cherries and berries, accented with lightly tangy citrus. 80 cases; 13.5%; $30 (Willamette Valley) 93/100

Compton 2024 Garden Series BoVine Vineyard Pinot Noir – A fine example from this estate vineyard, given 25% new barrel aging. Not yet released, but already showing excellent balance, finesse and detail. Cherry fruit front and center, threads of root beery sassafras, balanced acids and firm persistence. This is a wine that has plenty to show us over the next decade. 122 cases; 13.5%; $30 (Willamette Valley) 93/100

Compton Family 2022 Alpine Cuvée Pinot Noir – Named for a town where OSU’s Woodhall III vineyard was planted, this blends those grapes with the winery’s BoVine vineyard grapes. Smooth, tangy and showing mixed berries and plums, this gains focus mid-palate with a refreshing tartness. Light savory accents and aging in 30% new barrels adds to the complexity. 119 cases; 13%; $40 (Willamette Valley) 92/100

Compton Family 2022 Llewellyn Cuvée Pinot Noir – This mixes grapes from three different sites, three different clones and aging in both oak and concrete egg. As such it may need a bit more time to find its way; at the moment it seems a bit muddled. Perfectly sound, tasty and fine, just lacking the focus of most of the other cuvées. 96 cases; 13%; $40? (Willamette Valley) 91/100

Compton Family 2022 Mary’s Peak Vineyard Pinot Noir – The vineyard dates from 1977 and the wine shows the delicate refinement of old vines. Pomegranate, currant, strawberry and watermelon are the light red fruit flavors. The acids are restrained and there are threads of savory herbs and lemony citrus. I love the elegance, texture and detail of this wine. 145 cases; 13.5%; $42? (Willamette Valley) 94/100

Kiona Vineyards

Kiona 2024 Old Vine Chenin Blanc – A complicated cuvée, 88% Chenin Blanc from Kiona and Phil Church, along with Viognier, Roussanne and Sauvignon Blanc from an assortment of other sites. Fermentations were done in a variety of vessels including clay amphora, stoneware egg and French oak. That’s a lot of flavors in the stew pot, but it works seamlessly, yielding a lush mix of orchard and tropical fruits, limned with lime. Fruit-powered with a floral top note, this is fresh and lively. The tradeoff from blending is sacrificing some of the purity of 100% Chenin but I can’t fault the blend; it’s delicious all the way. 3710 cases; 14%; $22 (Columbia Valley) 92/100

Kiona 2024 Wine with Friends – A modern wine, if ever there was one, this sports a cartoonish label with the slogan “fruity, low oak and chillable”. Hello young wine drinkers – this was made for you. Three quarters Lemberger and one quarter Merlot, it lives up to its promise, showing best with a good chill. Light and pretty, with strawberry candy fruit flavors, it’s all estate-grown, soft, smooth and pleasing. 233 cases; 14%; $25 (Red Mountain) 90/100

Kiona 2024 Pinot Noir + Lemberger – Here’s a one-of-a-kind blend – 70% Willamette Valley Pinot and 30% Kiona Lemberger. The Pinot (mostly Pommard) has a firm grip on the steering wheel, while the Lemberger rides shotgun and ups the tannins without overtaking the fruit. It closes down a bit through the finish, with a hint of reduction. Give it aggressive aeration and the aromatics expand into a subtle weave of citrus and berry and barrel, with toasted walnuts and a lick of buttery caramel to conclude. 364 cases; 13.6%; $50 (Oregon/Washington) 92/100

Kiona 2022 Mourvèdre – This pure, estate-grown varietal wine is a showcase for Mourvèdre, most often used in a GSM-style blend. Here it’s well-ripened, firm and tannic but with ample strawberry and cherry fruit. The texture weaves in touches of dried straw and peppery herbs, then flattens out in a smooth finish. 516 cases; 13.5%; $38 (Red Mountain) 91/100

Kiona 2022 Cabernet Sauvignon – Using grapes from Kiona’s five Red Mountain estate vineyards this puts the finesse back into Red Mountain Cabs, which often sacrifice detail for sheer power. Though listed at almost 15% it drinks a bit lighter, showing more texture and overall elegance. Firm, tannic, balanced and compact, this is an ageworthy wine with both near and long-term drinking potential. 6614 cases; 14.8%; $36 (Red Mountain) 92/100

Kiona 2022 Red Mountain Reserve – This is a full-on Bordeaux blend – Cabernet Sauvignon is half, the rest a mix of Merlot, Cab Franc and Petit Verdot. It’s a lovely, balanced and textured blend, with power and precision. Kiona’s winemaking team seems to aim for elegance along with the built-in power of Red Mountain Cabs, and I wish more wineries on the Hill did the same. This is exceptional, flavorful and lingers on the palate gracefully. Drink now and over the next decade. 458 cases; 14.5%; $65 (Red Mountain) 94/100

Kiona 2022 Heart of the Hill – This is a single vineyard expression, principally Cabernet, with 12% Merlot and 6% Petit Verdot filling out the blend. “A modern take on a venerable classic” says the winery, meaning it’s an intentional single vineyard selection designed to stand apart from other blends. Which it does, with a lovely mix of purple and black fruits, silky tannins and highlights of tobacco and coffee. A complete and focused and all-around lovely wine, balanced and compelling. 408 cases; 14.5%; $110 (Red Mountain) 95/100

Nysa Vineyard

Nysa was planted in 1990 by owner/winemaker Michael Mega. 2004 was the first vintage for the estate brand. A minimalistic approach is taken in the cellar with no fining or filtering at the time of bottling. The goal (insert applause here) is to preserve the subtle complexity of Pinot Noir.

Nysa 2023 Chardonnay – Wente clone, all stainless ferment, and three months in neutral oak. And without fancy clones and lots of new barrels this is a stunningly good Chardonnay, deep, dense, thrillingly complex and powerful. Firm and focused flavors of Meyer lemon, pink grapefruit, papaya and pineapple carry the palate. Wonderful texture with hints of caliche add to the lingering finish. 189 cases; 13.5%; $65 (Dundee Hills) 95/100

Nysa 2024 Grenache – To my knowledge the first Grenache planted in the Pacific Northwest was in the Columbia Gorge about a half century ago. Some cold winters ended that experiment, but better sites, clonal research and (maybe) a warming climate have re-established this variety throughout the region. This is from Threemile vineyard – a spicy, tangy, red-fruited wine, bright and fresh, with a hint of earth and compost underscoring the burst of cherries in the finish. Tannins are just enough to add framing and support. This should continue to open and develop over the next half decade. 216 cases; 13.5%; $65 (Columbia Gorge) 93/100

Nysa 2021 Pinot Noir – Estate-grown Pommard, Dijon 115 and Wadensvil clones are aged 13 months in 25% new French oak. Just released this past April, it’s benefitted from several years of bottle age, which seems to have helped to soften and integrate the acids and tannins. It remains quite youthful with primary red fruit flavors accented with lemon and orange citrus. 200 cases; 14.5%; $60 (Dundee Hills) 92/100

Nysa 2021 Pantera Pinot Noir – A three barrel selection (one new) from estate-grown fruit. I can find a skosh more weight to it, otherwise it’s quite similar to the other 2021, same clones, same vineyard, no surprise there. This one won’t be released until December. It’s tight, compact, well-defined, with black cherry fruit that carries a hint of bubble gum flavor. It’s a bit tough to unpack, but starts to open on the second day. 75 cases; 14%; $85 (Dundee Hills) 93/100

Nysa 2019 Leda Pinot Noir – This is all estate-grown Pommard, 40% whole cluster, given two years in 50% new French oak. Plus it’s been given a half decade of bottle age – this is the upcoming release, due out in October. I’m impressed by the winery’s commitment to making a well-defined style, using estate-grown grapes, and then paying the extra costs of long aging. This is showing its age in its sunset hues, and primary fruit seems to be fading, replaced with savory herbs and earth, strawberry/cherry pastry filling, and a light frame of tannins. 125 cases; 13.8%; $105 (Dundee Hills) 91/100

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