Brilliant Dundee Hills Chardonnays & Pinot Noirs
Chris Mazepink has once again crafted a stellar lineup at his White Walnut winery
Chris Mazepink worked in a New York wine shop during college. His interests in skiing, fly fishing and winemaking brought him to Corvallis to enroll in the wine program at Oregon State in the early 2000s. He left there early and signed on at Willamette Valley Vineyards working with (then) lead winemaker Joe Dobbes. Mazepink’s next stop was at Shea as assistant winemaker; then to Benton Lane, followed by six years making wine at Archery Summit. In 2013 he purchased an abandoned walnut orchard nearby on 11 acres in the Dundee Hills. Planting began in 2015 and finished in 2016. A little wine was made in 2018 but 2019 was his first significant vintage. My reviews of those wines were very positive, with scores from 92 to 95. Here are brand new reviews of the outstanding White Walnut 2021s. As you can see, production is very limited. And what absolutely gorgeous labels! Buy them here.
White Walnut 2021 Estate Grown Chardonnay
The biodynamic farming brings extra texture and some flavors of wild yeasts into the mix. This is not your standard cookie-cutter, ultra-safe and oaky Chardonnay. It's a let-it-all-hang-loose approach becoming more and more characteristic of Oregon. Lemon yellow, this mixes aromatic floral, tangy citrus, white peach and herbal tea flavors in well-balanced proportions. It's long lasting and further develops its Meyer lemon fruit with a hint of honeycomb as it gently fades. Tasted on day two it was as good as ever. 175 cases; 13.1%; $40 (Dundee Hills) 93/100
White Walnut 2021 Estate North Blocks Chardonnay
There's a zippy hit of cinnamon spice running right on through the palate, and it seems to tighten up the focus. Not surprisingly, this in essence is much like the Estate Grown bottling, though it may have gotten more new oak or some different fermentation vessels. The wildness of that companion wine is tamed down a bit here, but still brings flower, citrus and herbal tea flavors into the mix. These three Chardonnays all have extended finishes, and develop more highlights long past the time you swallow that first sip. So take ample time to watch those late flavors develop. 100 cases; 13.1%; $55 (Dundee Hills) 93/100
White Walnut 2021 Worden Hill Rd. Chardonnay
This field blend of mixed clones is fermented with native yeasts, whole clusters and in a mix of vessels. In some ways this is the most interesting of the three Chardonnays, with an extra dollop of pollen and animal flavors wrapped into the lemon, citrus and herbal tea notes. The length and flavor development as the wine travels down through the palate and into the extended finish is a big part of what makes all these Chardonnays exceptional. They may startle you, but they will never bore you. 75 cases; 13.3%; $55 (Dundee Hills) 94/100
White Walnut 2021 Pinot Noir
The purity of the fruit is instantly apparent via a big burst of cherry aromas and flavors that open this wine. The fruit is perfectly set against framing acids and barrel notes. It's a young and pretty wine with the potential to grow into a fine mid-life. Initially it is still showing some bready flavors - croissant! - that speak to its youth. As good as it is I suspect its best years will begin in the latter years of the 2020s. 438 cases; 14%; $45 (Dundee Hills) 92/100
White Walnut 2021 Worden Hill Road Pinot Noir
Aromas abundant with flowers and black fruits open this inviting wine and set the table for the sort of Pinot that is built for elegance and finesse. It's quite an achievement to create such detail and density in a young wine, while keeping it totally approachable. Delicate and unexpected highlights of pollen and herbal tea add interest to a strong, even muscular finish. It's a bit of a magic act, a wine that dances between delicacy and power so gracefully. Drink 2025 to 2040. 75 cases; 13.4%; $65 (Dundee Hills) 94/100
White Walnut 2021 Estate – South Blocks Pinot Noir
This hits immediately with black cherry fruit with some strong wood flavors – neutral barrels or maybe whole cluster fermentation. It has the tannins and power to develop nicely, but already at such a young age it's a very attractive wine with a mix of blackberries and cherries adorned with highlights of blood orange and pineapple, almond paste, toasted walnuts and overall the exuberant freshness of youth. 100 cases; 13.8%; $65 (Dundee Hills) 94/100