An Outstanding Sauv Blanc Costing <1% of Screaming Eagle's Offering
Pay Absurd Prices for Celebrity Wines or Try This Under-the-Radar Walla Walla Winery
A few days ago an article caught my eye that listed the world's 10 most expensive Sauvignon Blancs (according to Wine Searcher). I've long been an advocate for this multi-faceted white wine, and especially eager to see more good ones from Washington and Oregon. Back in the day I was introduced to Sancerre and its lesser kin during a number of visits to the Loire valley, and while I admire the fruity style of New Zealand and the super ripe and oaky California versions, I personally go for sleek, high acid, mineral-drenched cool climate bottles.
The most expensive Sauv Blanc on this list was from Screaming Eagle and apparently costs $4421 (why not round it up to $5000 since you're so close?). In distant second was the Louis-Benjamin-Didier Dagueneau Pouilly-Fume Asteroide, which can be had for $1785. Down near the bottom (#9) was the Cuvée Paul from François Cotat ($144).
Cotat is a legendary name in Sancerre, and this bottle is apparently named to honor the late Paul Cotat, whose wines I absolutely adored. They are from Chavignol, a village famous for its crotin cheeses, and they used to sell in the mid to high $20s. When Paul Cotat died the estate went to a pair of nephews – Pascal and François – and for awhile I was able to sample their wines as the prices climbed steadily through the $30s, $40s and higher.
The notes on the Cuvée Paul indicate that one of the hallmarks of the Cotat wines is that the grapes are left to ripen past what is generally considered to be optimal. In my experience the wines also showed more residual sugar than most, rounding off the flavors and somehow adding to the intensity of the finish.
It's interesting that this wine was given a score of 91 (by whom I don't know) which hardly seems like an enticement for a bottle costing $144. The Screaming Eagle only gets an aggregated score of 93, which is where all but the Dagueneau and the Pavillon Blanc from Château Margaux top out. These scores don't seem to match the prices, which are clearly based on reputation, scarcity and celebrity rather than exceptional quality.
I understand why some people are drawn to such wines, and for them spending a few thousand dollars on a bottle may be chump change, but I wonder how an industry that is struggling to sell $10 wines can benefit from the not-so-subtle message that if you want the good stuff it's going to cost a fortune. Even for Sauvignon Blanc!
Here's an alternative. And guess what – it gets a 93 also! This is part of an exceptional lineup from Peter Devison, who started his winery with his wife Kelsey following winemaking stints at Efeste and Cadaretta. Devison Vintners is small even by family winery standards, and the wines are principally available out of the tasting room or online. I've spent a most enjoyable few days with a half dozen new and upcoming releases, but let's go right to the Sauvignon Blanc.
Devison 2022 Evergreen Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc – the label depicts an octopus clutching a variety of mollusks in its outstretched tentacles – a pretty clear indication of what the winemaker proposes as an accompaniment to this pure varietal. The vineyard is in the Ancient Lakes AVA and is a well-known cooler site that excels with high acid white wine grapes. This wine kickstarts the flavors with a sappy, juicy burst of lemon, lime and grapefruit. It is indeed a fine oyster wine, and sure to please anyone (me included) who loves high acid wines that refresh the palate and deliver more than just sour lemon flavors. 12.5%; $28 (Columbia Valley) 93/100
You may purchase it here.
I'll be posting more extensive reviews on Devison wines shortly. For now, let me also steer you to these other recent recommendations for outstanding and affordable Sauv Blancs (eat your heart out Screaming Eagle).
Airfield 2022 Sauvignon Blanc – Lightly grassy and classically varietal in character, this is a style for those who like their Sauv Blancs on the savory side. It's balanced and true, with flavors of pea vine, lemon oil, grapefruit rind and green tea. Just tart enough to whet the appetite. Give it a little bit of a chill and it's a perfect hot weather go-to white. 10500 cases; 12.7%; $17 (Yakima Valley) 90/100
Love & Squalor 2022 Sauvignon Blanc – Winemaker Matt Berson credits "the Sauvignon Blanc cartel" – Patty Green, Jay Somers and Andrew Rich – for helping to define this variety in Oregon (I concur) and inspiring him to continue on with it. I've long believed that this variety should be right up there with Pinot Gris, Chardonnay and Riesling as front and center white wine grapes in the Willamette Valley. This new release is strikingly pure, fresh and varietal, with a hint of grassiness but none of the more extreme flavors that can turn people away. Lime, pineapple, grapefruit and lemon are all in a tangle, with defining acids all the way through the finish. 185 cases; 13%; $20 (Willamette Valley) 92/100
Avennia 2022 Sauvignon Blanc – This is roughly two thirds Boushey and one third Red Willow fruit, 100% varietal, and barrel fermented in neutral wood. The time in barrel has not taken away the edgy acids, which set up the palate with a burst of citrus. Flavors of lemon, lime and grapefruit give this a solid fruit core, continuing on through a brisk, crisp, clean, fresh, lingering finish. It's a fine-tuned wine that is a clear-eyed study in unadorned Washington Sauvignon Blanc. 12.6%; $30 (Yakima Valley) 91/100
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