The Hills Are Alive! A Franc Overview of Strengths and Challenges of the Rattlesnake Hills AVA
The AVA has historic vineyards and a strong focus on Cabernet Franc
The Rattlesnake Hills AVA was certified on March 20, 2006 – Washington’s ninth. It’s based principally on elevation rather than a single soil profile, and borders a section of the northern boundary of the Yakima Valley AVA. Officially 68,500 acres, of which roughly 1800 are planted, it is home to some of Washington’s oldest vineyards, some dating back over a half century. Although elevations within the official AVA range from 850 to over 3000 feet, the plantable land tops out at around 2000 feet.
Among the AVA’s advantages are its significant frost protection in the spring and fall and some freeze protection in the winter. Credit the shielding effect of the Rattlesnake Ridge that seals its northern border. The Ridge blocks the impact of the frequent arctic blasts coming out of Canada, while the hillside slopes direct cold air south into the Yakima Valley flats.
Parts of the AVA lie above the reach of the Missoula Floods, making for varied soils. Yet despite the geographic advantages and the region’s long (for Washington( winegrowing history, the AVA has remained rather obscure and unheralded since its inception. Now a group of growers and winemakers have set out to renew, renovate and re-set consumer awareness of the region, starting with the name. Although federal regulations demand certain strict guidelines be met for naming AVAs, and there are unquestionably actual rattlesnakes in the Rattlesnake Hills, the association with the reptiles has struck many as unfortunate. Hence this effort to re-brand under the moniker of The Hills.
Whether or not this effort will ultimately prove successful, the project attracted my interest and I spent a busy day visiting several vineyards and talking to a number of vineyard and winery owners involved with the effort. Along with the (unofficial) re-naming, the group, which is headed by vineyard owner Marissa Dineen, opted to tie the new name into promoting their Cabernet Franc varietal wines and blends. As part of my vineyard tours I was offered the chance to taste about three dozen examples of those wines, some pure varietal, some in blends. This put a helpful focus on our discussions and vineyard tours.
I happened to visit on a supremely lovely spring day. Coming from Walla Walla, where the winter freeze has done quite a bit of damage, I was immediately struck by the healthy vigor of the vines. At Two Mountain winery’s Copeland and Portteus vineyards, grower Matt Rawn confirmed that cold air flows like water down to lower elevations, so frost is seldom a problem. Almost all of the vines in the AVA are own-rooted, and Matt and his brother Patrick farm and consult on a number of sites that are being carefully renovated. They are leaders in a growing movement to certify qualifying sites as sustainable, a method of grape-growing that prioritizes environmental stewardship, social responsibility and economic viability.
At Konnowac Vineyard I met founder Chuck Hill, who began planting the site almost 40 years ago, and new owner Javier Alfonso, who is now expanding and renovating the vineyard. As is happening in many of the region’s aging vineyards, whose original owners have retired or passed away, Alfonso is emblematic of a new generation taking over, here with help and guidance from founder Hill. In some parts of the original vineyard vines are being replaced, in other parts they simply need to be restored, where the original ungrafted rootstock is still viable. In a new section recently planted to Grenache Alfonso is implementing a trellising method he learned in his native Spain.
Dineen and Copeland were the most common grape sources among the Cabernet Franc wines I tasted. Other bottles made with estate-grown fruit spotlighted such high-profile sites as DuBrul, Pollard, Two Blondes and Sheridan. I tasted these wines (which are reviewed below) over the past few weeks, ahead of my visit. As I tasted through them in small flights over several days, I looked to find some defining style that might typify the region. There isn’t one, and that’s not a criticism. The tremendous variety in the finished wines is a reflection of the varied hillside slopes, which provide every conceivable north/east/south/west facing aspect, some above and some below the flood summit; and the different soil mixes at different elevations. Some vineyards straddle the actual flood crest, half above and half below, and standing on the border you can see and even feel the difference in the soils underfoot.
Marissa Dineen, who grows 18 acres of Cab Franc at her family’s Dineen and Katherine’s vineyards, has found that the grape is very expressive and likes the climate and soils. Like many growers she believes that the quality of the finished wine is set in the vineyard, by using such practices as shoot thinning and green harvesting to decrease Cab Franc’s natural pyrazines and enhance the red fruit flavors.
Michael Savage, whose Savage Grace winery is anchored in the Columbia Gorge, has made Cabernet Franc from three Rattlesnake Hills sites over the past decade, and offered his thoughts on how each site reflects the grape differently.
MS: “Copeland – this is the Cabernet Franc vineyard I started with in 2011, where I still get the most fruit. 2011 was a cool year, so I was excited to find a vineyard where I could pick in late October and make a ~12% Cab Franc that felt complete and Loire-esque, more Bourgeois than Chinon. The pyrazines on the Franc from that vineyard are not too green and push more toward rhubarb than green pepper.
“What I like most about Copeland is that it retains much better acidity than the other Yakima vineyards I get the grape from, and I can pick a little later than the others and still have good acidity. It may be because of the higher elevation, exposure, and cooler nights.
“Two Blondes – I started with Two Blondes in 2016 and felt like it was more green and jalapeno pepper Cab Franc and a complete contrast to the higher acid Copeland vineyard. More Chinon than the Copeland and very expressive on the nose. However, I found the acid at that vineyard fell much faster than Copeland, leading to early picks and sometimes even lower alcohols from those warmer sites, trying to retain acidity.
“Pollard – I started with Pollard in 2018 after Patrick Rawn highly recommended the vineyard. This is a distinct Cab Franc with a unique aroma and flavor reminiscent of tomato, brine, blood, and iron. It is also a challenge to retain acidity, but that vineyard has really beautiful flavors and intense aromas.”
PG: As my tasting notes show, the Savage Grace Cab Francs are the lowest in finished alcohol among everything I tasted; some of the other wines posted abv’s as much as three points higher. This I believe reflects both the sites from which the grapes are chosen, Savage’s picking decisions, and of course the choices made at the winery. What’s especially impressive is that truly excellent wines are being made by a great many winemakers sourcing from all the different vineyards. The varied styles simply add to the tasting pleasure.
In her brilliant and essential book “Wine Grapes” author Jancis Robinson gives five full pages to Cabernet Franc, noting that it is the “fragrant, well-structured parent of Cabernet Sauvignon that shines in the Loire and in Bordeaux blends”. In her extensive account of all the parts of the world where the grape thrives, Washington gets a scant couple of sentences, with the note that at the time the book was published (almost 15 years ago) Cab Franc was losing ground to Syrah. Update: in the most recent (2022) statistics from the state it’s noted that Cabernet Franc received the highest average price per ton of any grape grown in Washington – a sure sign of growth. In terms of tonnage it’s number five among the top five red grapes; albeit a distant fifth.
Here you will find information on many of the wineries in The Hills, along with a guide to special springtime events and maps for exploring by car or bike. Located mid-way between Walla Walla and Seattle, this is a wonderful place to get a sense of Washington wine history and a look at where the viticultural future is taking us. Not listed on this website, but not to be missed, is a visit to Sheridan’s tasting room at The Garden, a lushly landscaped place to escape the heat and luxuriate in the wines, the peace and the beauty. It’s open Thursday – Saturday or by appointment.
Here is Part One of my survey of Cabernet Franc wines from The Hills. Some of these may be sold out. Some are blends and some are 100% varietal. I list them in alphabetical order.
Armstrong 2020 Dineen Vineyard ‘Fronc’ Cabernet Franc – Firm, classic varietal flavors, with tart berry, pepper and savory herbs. It thins out through the finish, but maintains excellent balance. This vintage may not have allowed for optimal ripeness, but here the winemaking takes full advantage of what the grapes had to offer. 150 cases; 13.7% (Yakima Valley) 91/100
Dineen 2021 Cabernet Franc – This gets off to a good start with blackberry and black cherry fruit, swathed in dark, toasty barrel notes. The streak of espresso that runs through many of these Cabernet Francs is partly a trait of the variety, partly from barrel aging. It puts a strong frame around the dark fruits, leading into an astringent finish. 100 cases; 14.2%; $37 (Yakima Valley) 92/100
Endless Sound 2022 Konnowac Vineyard Cabernet Franc – The oldest vines at Konnowac date from 1987. This is a fruit-driven, medium-bodied wine. All neutral oak was used, keeping the fruit as the star. Raspberries, marionberries, loganberries – all fresh and tangy. That said, a light touch of new wood could add some welcome highlights 14.2%; 91/100
Esja 2022 Cabernet Franc – Sourced from the Dineen Vineyard, this is well-ripened and opens with a burst of fresh raspberry flavor. The well-modulated tannins, ripe and firm, add a touch of black tea. All the oak was neutral. 14.3%; 92/100
:Nota Bene 2018 Cabernet Franc – This too is sourced from Dineen Vineyard fruit. It’s soft and lightly minty, smooth and annotated with touches of orange peel. It was bottled almost four years ago and is now gliding into a prime drinking window. 75 cases; 14.5%; $28 90/100
Pearl and Stone 2020 Mailbox Peak Red – This is a blend of 70% Cab Franc and 30% Merlot, sourced from Two Blondes and Pollard vineyards. Call it a Right Bank style, it’s a proven combo, and brings generous berry and plum fruit accented with savory herbs. There’s a suggestion of sandalwood and light barrel toast, with a gently fading finish that comes to a red licorice end. 13.4%; 91/100
Pearl and Stone 2020 Reserve Cabernet Franc – From the Pollard vineyard this is pure varietal, and provides a fine-tuned glimpse of the grape and the terroir. It’s packed with lush blackberry, blueberry and marionberry fruit – tart, firm and lightly savory. Good balance and ripeness, with plenty of acid support. No sign of new oak, nor is it missed here. 14.6% 92/100
Pine Lake Cellars 2020 Pollard Vineyard Cabernet Franc – 100% varietal, this makes the case for lighter styles. It is balanced throughout, with strawberry fruit, threaded with savory herbal flavors, and finished with ripe tannins. There’s a touch of green olive as it trails out, seamless and detailed with a fine, lightly chewy texture. 13.9%. 91/100
Roza Hills 2020 Cabernet Franc – This was tasted from a barrel sample of the finished wine so the rating is preliminary. Aromatic with Asian spices, baking chocolate and mocha notes. Black currant and black cherry on the palate, with lightly grainy tannins. Extended barrel aging (38 months) adds coffee ground flavors. Due for release this month, it’s ready to drink and should be consumed within the next few years. 25 cases; 14.8%; $49 91?/100
Roza Hills 2021 Cabernet Franc – This also is a barrel sample of finished wine so the rating is preliminary. Big and tannic, with black fruits, mocha and espresso flavors, it rested 27 months in barrels prior to bottling for release this month. With lower alcohol and less barrel time than the 2020 this is showing more purity of fruit, a tighter, more compact palate, good concentration and multiple layers of spice and pipe tobacco. The finish is astringent and trails out with accents of dried leaves. 25 cases; 14.1%; $49 92?/100
Savage Grace 2016 Copeland Vineyard Cabernet Franc – The wines of Chinon are clearly the inspiration for the Savage Grace Cab Francs. Austere, mineral-based, low alcohol and yet strikingly flavorful and beautifully balanced, this offers a glimpse of how these wines will age. Honestly it’s strikingly fresh, with only the barest suggestion of orange shading at the rim of the glass. Aromatic and compelling, it reminds me of the old vine Cinsaults from one of my favorite Lodi wineries, with delicate shades of rhubarb, red berries, tea leaves and composted soil. This style of Cabernet Franc is like a watercolor painting compared to an oil, a Winslow Homer rather than a Van Gogh. 341 cases; 12.5%; 92/100
Savage Grace 2019 Copeland Vineyard Cabernet Franc – Alone in my tastings of these Cabernet Francs the Savage Grace wines keep the abv remarkably low, yet are some of the most complex, textured, detailed and long-lasting wines. This single vineyard, 100% varietal wine includes 20% whole clusters and was aged about a year in neutral barrels. It’s a textbook lesson in taking what the vintage gives you and making the very best wine you can with those grapes. Keeping the varietal character front and center, this wine tilts a bit away from fruit and more toward savory, but piles on flavor, texture, depth and detail. Perfectly balanced in a light, ready to drink style. 364 cases; 12%; 92/100
Savage Grace 2021 Copeland Vineyard Cabernet Franc – With a redesigned label and finished at a remarkable 11.5% abv, this seems to be pushing the alcohol limits as far down as possible. It may be a bit too far but Michael Savage has nonetheless crafted a very appealing wine. The acids rule without killing the fruit flavors of tangy white raspberry and strawberry. White pepper notes along the surprising length compete with finishing flavors of fresh savory herbs. 91/100
Two Mountain 2019 Reserve Cabernet Franc – This captures the classic profile of the grape, with ripe black fruits and a thin streak of coffee. Aromatic and balanced, there is a textural mouthfeel that showcases barrel flavors of sandalwood and sweet baking spices. At this time it finishes quite astringent with drying tannins that resonate with flavors of dried tea leaves. 537 cases; 13.9%; 92/100
VanArnam 2018 Estate Reserve Cabernet Franc – At first this wine was a bit shut down, almost as if bottle shocked. As it opened up there were clean and balanced berry and cherry fruits with a seam of tobacco and ground coffee. Tannins are ripe and polished. It clearly needed aeration to soften up a bit and begin to smooth out. Good structure and ageability. Drink 2026 to 2035. 13.7%; 92/100
Welcome Road 2021 Cabernet Franc – Young, tight and chewy, the fruit is sourced from the Dineen vineyard. Aged in one third new French oak, two thirds once-used Hungarian oak, it comes on initially hard, oaky and slightly bitter. Clearly it’s quite young and needs aggressive aeration. With ample breathing the barrel impact is softened, and married to lovely blackberry and black cherry fruit, baking spices, sandalwood and a nice touch of mocha. 52 cases; 14.1%; 92/100
Willow Wine 2021 Cabernet Franc – Dineen vineyard fruit. A gentle hand is at the controls here. Almost satiny purple and black berries, soft tannins and a weathered dusty mouthfeel. There’s a lick of milk chocolate as the wine finishes, also a hint of petrol. 56 cases; 13.2%; 90/100
Events & Tastings Coming Soon
Celebrating the rich culinary heritage of the AAPI community, this event returns for its second year. It will take place at Stoller Family Estate the weekend of May 18-19. A tribute to the diverse contributions of AAPI Chefs and Winemakers within the Willamette Valley, it’s a chance for attendees to experience the unique flavors and stories behind the wines and dishes.
Event founder and Executive Director Lois Cho explains that “currently there are 12 known AAPI wineries out of the 1,000+ wineries in Oregon. We’re excited to have representation from nine of them this year at the Fest. This event and our dinners in Portland are really a way to bring together the rich food and wine industry we have to offer here in Oregon, highlighting AAPI vineyards and restaurants.”
This exploration of Oregon Sauvignon Blanc (a wine I dearly love) includes a tasting at the Durant Olive Mill and a moderated panel discussion on the history of the grape. Scheduled for May 18th, there will be two tasting sessions after the panel discussion. Separate tickets are required for each event. A dozen wineries will pour their wines, paired with light apps.
This will be held the evening of May 18th at Amaterra Winery. Now in its third year, it benefits a trio of youth and family-oriented non-profits. A dozen wineries will be pouring their best, including such cult-worthy names as 00 (Double Zero), Antica Terra, Bledsoe|McDaniels, Force Majeure and Holocene.
The Demeter Biodynamic Certified wineries of Oregon will share their wines at a pair of events commemorating the centennial of Rudolf Steiner’s Agriculture Lectures, which began a voyage of discovery called Biodynamics. There are two separate wine tasting events in the works – one on June 6th for the trade and media, the other June 8th open to the public. As of this post participating wineries are Analemma, Art + Science, Brick House, Brooks, Cooper Mountain, Cowhorn, Domaine Willamette, Johan, King Estate, Montinore, Soter, Troon, Upper Five and Winderlea.
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Featured Tastings of the Week – Part Two – The Most Highly-rated Cabernet Francs from The Hills
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