The Art of Blending At L’Ecole No. 41

Plus: recommended new releases from Bergström and Elizabeth Chambers

Top 10 listicle articles are standard web fare, and most are barely worth the time it takes to glance through them. But here’s one that just showed up that was more than a little disheartening. “The World’s Best Merlot of 2024” read the headline. Right off the bat I’m all but certain that they haven’t given a nod to any Merlots from Washington, some of should definitely be considered in any serious evaluation of the “world’s best.”

Merlot has long been a major strength of the Washington wine industry, vintage after vintage, among a growing number of producers, both large and small. This article focused almost entirely on Merlots – some pure varietal, some in blends – from Italy and Bordeaux. There was one entry from California, and nothing from anywhere else. It could have been AI generated for the utter lack of original thinking it displayed. And there was no indication at all of how many of the world’s Merlots were actually tasted in order to compile this supposed top 10.

What it did achieve was a predictable list of the world’s most expensive Merlots – the one and only ‘bargain’ wine (generously given the number 10 slot) cost just over $100. All the rest ranged from the mid-hundreds to several thousand dollars per bottle. Needless to say I won’t be rushing down to the local wine shop to buy a mixed case. Even if such a mixed case were available, it would cost as much as a new car.

So what exactly is the point of even mentioning the article? The point for me is that without looking any farther than my tasting of new releases from L’Ecole No 41 I can guide you to two exceptional Merlots – both blends – that not only could stand alongside those on this list, but in terms of price/value put them all to shame. Along with the other Bordeaux-style blends in L’Ecole’s current portfolio, they prompted a dialogue with winemaker Marcus Rafanelli about the art of blending.

Anyone who paints – watercolors, acrylics, oils, whatever – understands the importance of blending colors. It’s where technical skills combine with the soul of the artist. I believe you can make the same connection with wine. As much as I love tasting single grape, single vineyard, single clone, single block wines – I’m looking at you Pinot Noir – the art of the blend is every bit as impressive. And this new lineup from L’Ecole really puts blending skills front and center.

I posed some questions to Marcus to gain some insights into how he and his team put these wines together.

PG:  How do you customize each different wine? 

Marcus:  “We begin at the top, with our Ferguson, Perigee and Apogee blends. Each of these vineyards has multiple different blocks of each varietal and only the best of the blocks goes into those wines. Every block is grown and made into a wine with the goal of making into one of those three blends. We do this by doing two, sometimes three separate tastings about a month apart. The first tasting, we go through each vineyard and assess each block, knowing what we are tasting. Each vineyard has stronger blocks that ‘usually’ go into the blend, but our second (and sometimes third) tasting is done blind where we know the varietal but not the block. This reinforces our first impressions or gets rid of preconceived notions and usually brings up some vivid discussions.

“Each vineyard has some ‘padding’ so that we have multiple choices of different blocks to put into those wines, and the remaining wines are then blended with the remaining components. Ferguson is notoriously slow to age in barrel (and in bottle), so it is usually the blend we tackle last. Sometimes it takes a few swings but we will take whatever time is needed to come up with that complete and final blend.”

PG:  Are any of the components co-fermented? 

MR:  “We currently do not co-ferment different components. We ferment, press and age each of our [roughly] 100 lots separately. After our blending trials we will merge the different components into their respective blends.”

PG:  Are the vineyards selected specifically for each of the blended wines? 

MR:  “Our goal is to make AVA-specific wines. For Walla Walla, our Estate Merlot and Estate Right Bank blend will always be a blend of our two estate vineyards, Seven Hills and Ferguson. And based on yields, these wines might not be made every year. Apogee will always be our vineyard designated blend from Pepper Bridge vineyard. But some of those components will find their way into our other wines like Walla Walla Cabernet Sauvignon,  Columbia Valley Merlot, and Cabernet Sauvignon. Our Estate and Walla Walla wines tend to get the robust and age worthy components while our Columbia Valley Heritage lineup does well with our softer, more approachable blocks.”

PG:  Do you have a large group of vineyards and barrels to select from when you sit down to do the blending?

MR:  “Yes, we have approximately 60-70 different blocks for our red wines and 25-30 different blocks for our white wines. We always do our red and white blending trials with neutral barrels, and I come back and choose which oak will go into each wine (approximately 300 – 400 new oak barrels over 23 different cooperages to assess).”

PG:  Is there a prioritized timeline – first blending wine X, then on to wine Y, etc.?

MR:  “We do whites first as we bottle them in February and April the following year. Reds we taste in February after MLF [malolactic fermentation] is done and the wines have had a chance to bounce back from a sulfur addition. Subsequent blind tasting in March/April, followed by mock blend tastings. Wines are blended in late spring and summer before harvest. But as noted above we start from the top and work our way through the lineup. We are lucky to have so many great components each year.”

PG:  Thanks Marcus. I have been lucky enough to participate in many blending trials over the years, including those for my Waitsburg Cellars wines, and I find it both a challenge and a thrill. Getting it right is not easy, and very small adjustments can have a huge impact on the finished wine. Plus you are working with recently-fermented wines right out of barrel, and guessing (hoping!) that they will meld together into a harmonious whole once blended, bottled and aged. Some wineries believe that blending should be done prior to barreling, so that the finished wine has just that much more time to polish any rough edges. And sometimes co-fermenting, as in an old vine field blend, is the best approach. However blending is done, it should never be formulaic, and should always be reflective of the specific vintage.

L'Ecole No 41

Here is a good selection of the current releases. Among the white wines I’m especially impressed with the Semillons and the two wines from the Royal Slope. The reds, as I’ve already noted, are highlighted by a compelling array of Bordeaux blends. Pay particular attention to the high values within this portfolio.

L’Ecole 2023 Seven Hills Vineyard Luminesce – This estate-grown, 60/40 Semillon/Sauvignon blend is stylistically close to the Bordeaux blanc model rather than the richer, fruitier Australian versions. It doesn’t shy away from the savory herbal and pea vine flavors, backed with lightly lemony acid. There was no secondary malolactic fermentation and just 18% was fermented in new wood. Always a solid performer, this young wine will hit its stride by next spring. If drinking sooner, decant it. 1250 cases; 13.5%; $28 (Walla Walla Valley) 92/100

L’Ecole 2023 Semillon – Just 18% of the blend is Sauvignon Blanc, but it’s an important component that really complements the Semillon, spicing it up and putting a pinpoint focus on the finish. Fresh sage, green apple and aromatic hints of linalool make this especially interesting. With excellent length and balance, this is a fine value. 4000 cases; 13.5%; $18 (Columbia Valley) 92/100

L’Ecole 2022 Stillwater Creek Vineyard Semillon – The Stillwater Creek wines, new to L’Ecole this year, are wonderful additions to the portfolio. This pure varietal really shows off the grape and the vineyard well, with lemon, lime, apple, green pear and pineapple flavors set up beautifully with ripe acids and some creaminess from lees stirring. The long finish brings nice touches of white chocolate and caraway. It’s a shame that more wineries don’t put this kind of effort into showcasing Semillon, which clearly has an important role to play in Washington when treated right. 650 cases; 13.5%; $25 (Royal Slope) 94/100

L'Ecole 2023 Old Vines Chenin Blanc – L’Ecole has been a champion for old vine Chenin Blanc over many decades. In this new vintage the price has dropped and total case production has grown substantially, which probably reflects the addition of more vineyard sources. This does not show quite the same depth and detail of past versions. It is a fine, dry version of the grape, with straightforward savory flavors around citrus rind. 4300 cases; 13%; $19 (Yakima Valley) 91/100

L'Ecole 2023 Chardonnay – Some beautiful blending is going on here, mixing fruit from a broad range of vineyards scattered across several Columbia Valley AVAs. It’s principally a cool climate style, with a tight focus, firm acids, citrus rind, green apple and limestone in the mix. A very fine value, a versatile food wine, and one that may develop further over the rest of the decade. 6800 cases; 13.5%; $23 (Columbia Valley) 92/100

L'Ecole 2023 Stillwater Creek Vineyard Chardonnay – A new single vineyard selection in ’23, this has a pleasing lushness and generous barrel flavors of toast and caramel, laced through the mineral-drenched foundation. Crisp apple and hints of gooseberry fruit fill the mid-palate, and there’s plenty of concentration through a mid-long finish. 350 cases; 13.5%; $36 (Royal Slope) 94/100

L'Ecole 2021 Columbia Valley Merlot – This interesting blend includes Cab Franc, Malbec and Petit Verdot in small amounts, bringing exceptional depth and breadth to what might otherwise be a more straightforward single varietal Merlot. It’s far better, more supple, deep, loaded with berries and cherries and finished with ripe and polished tannins. The value would be there at twice the cost. This is simply exceptional in every way. 5450 cases; 14.5%; $27 (Columbia Valley) 95/100

L'Ecole 2021 Estate Grown Merlot – This Merlot-based Bordeaux blend is comprised of fruit from the Seven Hills and Ferguson vineyards, both estate-owned. Cab Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon are in the mix, adding extra muscle and savory accents to the wine’s finish. As open and appealing as the Columbia Valley bottling is, this takes an opposite tack. It’s tough, even chewy, compact and dense, with dark fruit and char. The tannins are full and grainy, with graphite and black olive flavors trailing. This is Merlot with the power of Cabernet, and may be cellared for a decade or longer. 1200 cases; 14.5%; $42 (Walla Walla Valley) 96/100

L'Ecole 2021 Columbia Valley Cabernet Sauvignon – Pure varietal and sourced from almost a dozen sites scattered throughout this vast AVA, this keeps a tight focus with concentrated cassis fruit backed with espresso, black olives, tar and toasted walnuts. It’s got power and depth, with pinpoint flavors through the finish. 7000 cases; 14.5%; $32 (Columbia Valley) 94/100

L'Ecole 2021 Walla Walla Valley Cabernet Sauvignon – It’s unusual that L’Ecole uses Merlot as the base for its Bordeaux blends, and keeps its Cabernets 100% varietal (there are the other Bordeaux blends at the portfolio’s top end, so the strategy makes perfect sense). Sourced from a half dozen vineyards, mostly from the Oregon side of the valley and including some from the Rocks District, this is a sturdy and detailed wine with a chiseled profile. Black fruits, cassis, espresso, charred wood, dark chocolate and firm, polished tannins keep a tight profile as it weaves through the finish. Beautifully proportioned and showing excellent concentration, this wine, like much of L’Ecole’s expansive portfolio, delivers value well beyond its price. 2050 cases; 14.5%; $44 (Walla Walla Valley) 94/100

L'Ecole 2021 Estate Grown Cabernet Franc-Merlot – This is a 50/50 blend from the estate’s Seven Hills vineyard. It’s part of a stunningly fine lineup of Bordeaux blends and single varietal wines from L’Ecole in the class of ’21. Showing some of the breadth of palate that is typical of the Walla Walla reds, it mixes blackberry and cassis fruit with tannins that taste of black tea and pencil lead. Firm and compact through the finish, this will need decanting for near term drinking, and should age quite well for a decade or longer. 330 cases; 14.5%; $45 (Walla Walla Valley) 95/100

L'Ecole 2021 Seven Hills Vineyard Perigee – This single vineyard showcase blend is half Cabernet Sauvignon, 24% Merlot, 11% Cabernet Franc. 8% Malbec and 7% Petit Verdot – a full on Bordeaux mix, tweaked slightly from the previous vintage but aiming for the same target. If you are seeking a Washington take on a high end Bordeaux wine, look no farther. The fruit is more forward, the savory highlights a bit more restrained, but overall the style hits the target. Sourced from all estate, single vineyard fruit, there’s a clear focus, and the aromatics strike a rich chord mixing berries and mocha highlights. Two fifths of the barrels were new, and the wine was given 22 months in barrel prior to bottling. 1450 cases; 14.5%; $60 (Walla Walla Valley) 95/100

L'Ecole 2021 Pepper Bridge Vineyard Apogee – L’Ecole plays around with an interesting lineup of Bordeaux blends – see the Merlots reviewed above – and also with the more expensive reserve-level blends. The Apogee is a showcase for the Pepper Bridge vineyard, here a mix of 54% Cabernet Sauvignon, 31% Merlot, 12% Malbec and 3% Cabernet Franc. Pepper Bridge is in the flats just north of the Oregon state line, and the flavors tend to bring tart acids and lightly savory highlights. This is a good vintage for this wine, aged in 40% new barrels and loaded with black fruits on top and strong finishing lavers of espresso, toast, char, black licorice and tobacco. 1400 cases; 14.5%; $60 (Walla Walla Valley) 94/100

L'Ecole 2021 Estate Grown Ferguson Vineyard Red – One of an interesting group of L’Ecole’s Bordeaux blends, this single vineyard expression is 56% Cabernet Sauvignon, 18% Merlot, 14% Cabernet Franc, 7% Malbec and 5% Petit Verdot. The specifics of each of these blends, different from each other and different from vintage to vintage, is a mark of careful blending. No formulas here. The Ferguson vineyard, now moving into maturity, is the tête de cuvée for L’Ecole, a truly special location that will continue to develop and produce exceptional wines for decades to come. Rich blackberry, black cherry and cassis fruit holds down the center here, bedecked with mocha and underscored with a peppery dash of citrus. It’s a full-blown delight, big, balanced and bold. 1400 cases; 14.5%; $75 (Walla Walla Valley) 95/100

L'Ecole 2021 Columbia Valley Syrah – A six-vineyard blend, including estate fruit from Seven Hills, this splashes blackberry, loganberry and black cherry fruit broadly across the palate, saturated with juicy acids. Then the savory herbs kick in, fresh and adding a nice touch of green tea to the tannins. Beautifully balanced, with 16% Grenache and a splash of Mourvèdre in the mix, this full-bodied and long lasting Syrah is an affordable bottle that would make a nice centerpiece on your Thanksgiving dinner table. 3100 cases; 15%; $27 (Columbia Valley) 93/100

L'Ecole 2021 Seven Hills Vineyard Syrah – This is a single vineyard, pure varietal expression, tilting a bit toward citrus and tea notes around tart, wild-picked blackberry fruit. The tight tannins put a frame around the finish, with accents of licorice and coffee, finishing with phenolic highlights of bramble and forest floor. 1170 cases; 15%; $42 (Walla Walla Valley) 93/100

Here are quick notes on other recent tastings.

Bergström

Note that some of these are no longer listed on the website, or listed as available only in magnum, but are still being marketed nationally. I try to give readers advance warning on limited production wines, and rarely review wines that are already sold out. It’s always worth contacting the winery directly to find out what may be available even if not listed on the website.

Bergström 2021 Old Stones Chardonnay – This is as reliably great as any Chardonnay made in Oregon, year in and year out, and remains an excellent value given the quality. Succulent, sexy, ripe and rich with a broad seam of butterscotch, this is the sort of wine you’d hand out on Halloween (if you were to hand out wine instead of candy). Not to imply it’s sweet – it is dry, even tart – but loaded with tangy citrus and apple fruit, with buttery highlights and a smooth finish. This gorgeous wine should not be missed. 1412 cases; 13.5%; $47 (Willamette Valley) 94/100

Bergström 2021 Sigrid Chardonnay – A barrel selection from estate vineyards, this is built along sturdy lines with an eye to ageability. Flavors are tight and firm, with compact density. The fruit runs from citrus flesh and rind to pineapple and stone fruits. The barrel time brings subtle notes of spice and vanilla. When first tasted a year ago this wine refused to budge open. It definitely has the stuffing, but needs more time I thought. OK, re-tasted a year later, it has confirmed the previous impression, can still benefit from further bottle age, and should be decanted if opened any time soon. 610 cases; 13.3%; $122 (Willamette Valley) 95/100

Bergström 2022 Cumberland Reserve Pinot Noir  – The website already lists the 2023 but this 2022 is still out in the marketplace. It’s drinking nicely, with plum and berry, light tannins and a swish of mocha. 4074 cases; 13.1%; $55 (Willamette Valley) 91/100

Bergström 2022 Winery Block Pinot Noir – This is a low production, modest abv wine, a block selection with focus and precision. The 2022, not listed on the website but still out in the market nationally, brings fresh and pretty flavors of raspberries backed with juicy acids and finished with grainy tannins. 201 cases; 13%; $150 (Chehalem Mountains) 94/100

Bergström 2022 Silice Pinot Noir  – This 20-acre site has the deepest sandy soils of any of Bergström’s estate vineyards. Fresh blackberry fruit, minerally acids, tongue-soaking astringency and a fine overall balance characterize this wine. There is also an appealing lightness, with an elegant, even delicate finish that brings lovely nuanced touches of breakfast tea and spice. I would bank on this wine developing beautifully over the next decade or longer; it improved nicely on the second day. 1119 cases; 12.9%; $100 (Chehalem Mountains) 95/100

Bergström 2022 La Spirale Vineyard Pinot Noir  – A recent (2018) addition to the estate vineyard portfolio, this has fresh blackberry fruit highlighted with orange citrus. The underlying minerality adds to the freshness, with light hints of cola, tea and brown spices trailing out the finish. This is a fresh, elegant, beautifully crafted wine. 1163 cases; 13.4%; $100 (Ribbon Ridge) 95/100

Bergström 2022 Bergström Vineyard Pinot Noir – Big, bold and black-fruited, laced with seams of wet rock and ground coffee, this explosive wine fills the palate with dense, detailed flavors. The compact power denotes ageability, but it’s already drinking so well it might be difficult to keep your hands off the bottle. Josh Bergström writes this tasting note: “effusive nose with bright cherry, cacao nibs, and leather. Ripe fruit flavors of sweet marionberries and strawberries transition to dried herbs and savory meats on the finish. Incredibly structured and powerful. Deep and rich in texture, this wine is young and will evolve beautifully.” Right on! 628 cases; 13%; $150 (Dundee Hills) 97/100

Bergström 2022 Gargantua Syrah – Oregon makes a lot of Syrah, but it’s dominated by wines from the Rocks District, seconded by the outstanding Rhône varietals and blends from the Rogue Valley, and those Syrahs from the Umpqua and Willamette Valley AVAs are often overlooked. This wine bears the generic ‘Oregon’ tag, Previous versions of Gargantua have borne California and Washington AVAs; clearly Josh Bergström is experimenting and looking to define a style. This new vintage is not yet listed on the website, but the Oregon AVA suggests that fruit has been sourced from a mix of sites scattered throughout the state. It’s balanced, true to varietal character,  and light for this powerful grape. It recalls the Syrahs of Gramercy Cellars (reviewed here) with similar low alcohol, savory highlights, tea-touched tannins and overall elegant balance. Not yet released. 1069 cases; 12.6%; $75 (Oregon) 92/100

Elizabeth Chambers Cellar

Elizabeth Chambers 2021 Fairsing Vineyard Chardonnay – This opens with subtle layers of citrus oil and rind, seashells and sea salt. It continues to show exceptional layering of flavors as it expands in the glass, with lemon custard, banana cream and light pastry notes. A fascinating and complex wine, this should be given ample time to breathe and will reward your full attention. 150 cases; 13%; $36 (Yamhill-Carlton) 94/100

Elizabeth Chambers 2023 Rosé of Pinot Noir – A pretty rusty copper hue, with pungent aromas of spice, graham cracker and pastry. There’s a lot happening before it even hits the tongue. Despite the low abv it packs a punch, with tropical soda fruitiness, a mineral-driven foundation, and exceptional length. Along with Herb Quady, winemaker Drew Voit makes some of Oregon’s most dense and delicious rosés. 350 cases; 12.3%; $28 (Willamette Valley) 92/100

Elizabeth Chambers 2023 Pinot Noir – Fresh, immaculate and loaded with bright red berry fruit, this sassy young wine is just this side of a Gamay, with the same burst of front loaded flavor. Released young and suitable for anytime, near term enjoyment. This is more of a party wine than a lay down for a decade wine, but that’s not to say it doesn’t have enough stuffing to develop further over the next half decade. 825 cases; 14.1%; $36 (Willamette Valley) 90/100

Elizabeth Chambers 2022 Lazy River Vineyard Pinot Noir – Dark fruits laced with hints of light compost, espresso and graphite build toward a firm back palate. Aged 10 months in 20% new barrels, their toast frames the tannins as the finish rolls through. The wine retains its core of cherry fruit, wrapped in darker notes of espresso and char, through a long, chewy finish. 150 cases; 14.2%; $55 (Yamhill-Carlton) 92/100

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