A Rosé Is A Rosé Is A Rosé… Or Is It?
Springtime is rosé time, but hidden by this unregulated term is a puzzling universe of widely different styles
I recently took a bottle of rosé to share with a group of friends sitting outdoors on a warm spring day. I poured everyone a glass of the chilled wine. To my surprise the first comment I received was “I thought all rosés were sweet!” The second was “I never liked white Zinfandel!”
This particular wine was dry, and made from Pinot Gris. But it points up the recurring problem with a term that is widely used and even more widely misunderstood, because there is no meaningful definition of a rosé wine.
Some are sweet; most these days are dry. Calling any wine a rosé is not entirely a matter of color – the best you can say is that any rosé should be less dark than a full-bodied red such as Merlot. Being in or out as a rosé has nothing to do with the choice of grape. In just the past week I’ve had rosés made from Barbera, Cabernet Franc, Grenache, Malbec, Nebbiolo, Pinot Noir, Tempranillo, Viognier and various blends.
One of the top wines I tasted was technically an orange wine. Does that disqualify it as being a rosé? There were also versions of pet-nat and piquette wines labeled as rosés. And it’s not unusual to find rosés that are nothing more than white wines with a little red wine blended in for color.
What does matter is no different than any other wine – does the rosé in your glass make for a pleasurable experience? Does it match up well with the weather, the company, the food? Often light in alcohol but sometimes big in flavor, mostly unpretentious but occasionally quite sophisticated, rosés are versatile accompaniments to salty snacks, cured meats, dips and cheeses, as well as classic picnic foods such as fried chicken.
Still, not all rosés are created equal, and as I noted there are no rules or regulations regarding them. If you’re still trying to figure out what you like and what you don’t, ask yourself a few simple questions. Sweet or dry? Under 13% or over 13% alcohol (it’s always listed on the label). Any particular grape or grapes that you have strong feelings about? What about older bottles? Most current releases will be from 2023, but it’s not hard to find 2022s and even older ones.
I can’t tell you what to like, but I can tell you what I like. Below are some excellent examples in a wide variety of styles, but first, an overview.
My favorite single variety rosés are made from Pinot Noir. The grape is naturally light and elegant. I became enamored of the style many years ago on a visit to Sancerre, where I first discovered Sancerre rosé, long before I’d had an Oregon version. After that I’d choose Grenache, which makes for an energetic, lively style without the high alcohol. It’s also a key component in GSM rosés where it’s blended with Syrah and Mourvèdre. Most recently I’ve found winemakers turning toward Italian varieties such as Barbera and Sangiovese to make their rosés, at least in part because those grapes don’t always ripen properly to make a full-on red.
A deeper color does not always mean you’re getting a bigger or better or more flavorful rosé. Some of the best bottles are quite pale, but they are complex, layered and lingering. These are for me among the most interesting rosés; remember that color comes from skins, and skins have tannins, and tannins are for red wines, not for rosés. My main gripe against rosés made from Bordeaux grapes is exactly that – too tannic.
Here are recommendations from recent tastings, with links for direct purchase.
Highly recommended. The full review is posted with the rest of the Chehalem reviews under “Best Tastings of the Week”
Coyote Canyon 2023 Life is Rosé
I’m seeing more Barbera-based wines from Washington, and it’s a good choice for rosé, as shown here. A pale copper, fruity but dry, this has heart-of-the-plate rosé flavors of strawberries and pie cherries, with tart, lemony acids keeping flavors fresh and lively. 12.9%; $21 (Horse Heaven Hills) 91/100
Eternal 2022 ‘Summer’ Skin Contact Rosé
Here’s a style you’ve probably never seen. It’s an orange wine from Viognier grapes co-fermented on the skins with just 1% Cabernet Franc. Winemaker Brad Binko believes it’s the first one ever made. Whether or not, this is a gorgeous wine – a coppery sunset color, with deep, almost creamy flavors of tangerine sherbet. The tannins bring highlights of breakfast tea and orange crush, and the depth and finish are impressive. It’s quite dry and packed with flavor. A marvelous and unique wine. 24 cases; 14.1%; $34 (Yakima Valley) 92/100
Eternal 2023 ‘Beauty’ Cabernet Franc Rosé
A barrel-fermented rosé with plenty of toasty highlights around light strawberry fruit with a touch of melon. A deep straw color, it brings surprising depth of flavor at its very low alcohol. Finished bone dry with lingering hints of buttered toast. 75 cases; 11.9%; $29 (Wahluke Slope) 91/100
Estate grown Cinsault, Grenache and Mourvèdre are in the blend. It’s got a tongue-tickling minerality, light citrus and strawberry fruit, and pleasing freshness. 391 cases; 12.7%; $23 (Rogue Valley) 90/100
This is all Tempranillo source from the Rock Steady vineyard on the Washington side of the Columbia Gorge AVA. Clean, unadorned and just about perfect for a springtime rosé, it tastes of strawberries backed with a hint of gravel, lively and pleasantly refreshing. 108 cases; 13.5%; $23 (Oregon) 91/100
Peter William 2023 Grenache Rosé
Don’t let the pale color fool you; this distinctive wine has penetrating spice, notably a dusting of cinnamon, and deeply flavorful core fruit. It’s compact and intriguing, with a lot to unpack – citrus zest, cherries, spices, hints of barrel toast and sandalwood. 13.4%; $24 (Rogue Valley) 92/100
Phelps Creek 2023 Fleur de Roy Rosé of Pinot Noir
A fragrant, elegant wine that drinks much lighter than its listed alcohol. This is sourced from estate grown Pinot Noir at the winery just outside of Hood River. French-born winemaker Alexandrine Roy gets a well-deserved shout-out on the label. This truly is springtime in a bottle – a masterful combination of delicacy and depth, with subtle flavors of dried flowers and stone fruits adorned with citrus rind. 256 cases; 13.9%; $28 (Columbia Gorge) 92/100
A pale, pretty copper hue, this has a mix of strawberry, raspberry, cherry and juicy citrus flavors across the palate, gathering strength as it sails into a clean, lingering finish. It speaks to the reasons I gravitate toward rosés from the most recent vintage. I’m a fruit guy. Yes, there are some really excellent rosés that benefit from an extra year in bottle, but none that have the quality of just picked fruit and clean, juicy acids. 12.5%; $28 (Willamette Valley) 91/100
Events & Tastings Coming Up
This is taking place in Portland, this Saturday April 20th, from Noon to 5pm
From extensive recent tastings here are my recommendations. Note that some but not all will be poured at this event.
Abacela 2021 Malbec – The nose jumps out with gloriously dusty scents of brambly berries and pastry cherries. The cooperage, though neutral, has added just enough barrel spice to complement the fruit. Though Malbec has not been the varietal wine that has made Abacela’s reputation, it could certainly be the next groundbreaking success if this is the new standard. 405 cases; 14%; $32 (Umpqua Valley) 93/100
Abacela 2019 Grand Hill Block Reserve Malbec – The reserve has had extra bottle age, and a higher percentage of twice-used (but not neutral) barrels. It leans heavily into black fruits, char, espresso, tobacco and every other dark accent you can conjure up. For me the 2021 regular bottling shows the character of the variety better, but it’s not always fair to compare wines from different vintages so I’ll leave it at that. 230 cases; 13.9%; $46 (Umpqua Valley) 92/100
Hummingbird 2021 Malbec – Smooth, fruity, plenty of concentrated raspberry fruit once it’s had a minute to breathe. Nice savory herb highlights, backed with juicy acids. Fresh, fruity, light through a quick finish. 160 cases; 14.2%; $39 (Rogue Valley) 90/100
Padigan 2019 Malbec – Here I find raspberries and leather, and for many tasters that would be an optimal combo at least at this stage. It's a forward, fruity wine, with balancing acids and that leathery component that for the moment remains in balance. This is a wine to drink over the next few years. 120 cases; 13.3%; $24 (Rogue Valley) 90/100
Paul O’Brien 2018 Malbec – This supple, appealing wine is all Malbec, a deft mix of blue and purple berries, satiny tannins, and penetrating highlights of wintergreen. After two years in 40% new French oak, and further time aging in bottle, it has lost some rough edges and acquired a finishing smoothness. Drink now and over the next five years. 14.5%; $36 (Southern Oregon) 90/100
Peter William 2018 Malbec – This is a fine effort, supple and bracing with marionberry and purple plum fruit, lightly earthy tannins, excellent balance and fine, dusty tannins. Medium body and weight, it carries its alcohol gently with no burn through the finish. All estate fruit aged 19 months in 30% new American oak. 100 cases; 14.7%; $30 (Rogue Valley) 92/100
Peter William 2019 Malbec – In this cooler vintage the winery did not use all American oak. The fruit is compact and there is a pleasing earthy component – not funk, not compost, just clean fresh soil Brambly berry fruit flavors are supported with tart acids. It’s balanced and supple, less forward than the previous vintage. 100 cases; 14%; $30 (Rogue Valley) 91/100
Peter William 2020 PWV Reserve Malbec – A deep blue/purple hue, this was previously reviewed but has settled down a bit and muted the new oak influence. The fruit is a mix of blue and purple berries, with a streak of stem and herb running down the spine. This was a difficult vintage, but a well-made and nicely-balanced wine. 125 cases; 14.5%; $42 (Rogue Valley) 91/100
Valcan 2020 Black Malbec – This is chewy, tart, with front-loaded blackberry fruit that is fresh and clean. The wine holds on well into the finish, when the tannins kick in, along with hints of fresh herbs and a lick of caramel. The two years in one quarter new oak puts a toasty sandalwood frame around the finish. 104 cases; 13.8%; $40 (Rogue Valley) 91/100
Weisinger 2021 Peter William Vineyard Malbec – Eric Weisinger makes this wine also for Peter William so this is a nice adjunct to those earlier vintages also reviewed here. This is young, sharp and focused, opening with pointillistic raspberry fruit and tight, compact tannins. In other words, quite young. Well made, balanced and breathing open into black cherry and cassis. This holds great potential for cellaring. The pretty barrel spice adds nice highlights to the finish. For drinking now, decant it for at least an hour. 14%; (Rogue Valley) 93/100
April 24 – 27 – Tastings, dinners, special events
Seattle Tasting – May 8th, hosted by the Willamette Valley Wineries Association. This event will bring nearly 60 Willamette Valley winemakers to town for a one-day event at Block41
Please note: As I have now switched to a paid subscriber model for this Substack, the opening essays and some reviews will continue to be offered to all. Paid subscribers will have access to the full post including my ‘Best of the Week’ reviews, all past posts and special updates on very limited offerings. For those who wish to purchase paid subscriptions there is a group discount option available. Subscribing will never be a requirement for submitting wines for review. I taste all submitted wines; only reviews for recommended wines will be published. Notes and scores for all are available to the submitting winery on request.
Best Tastings of the Week – Chehalem and Shea
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